Skip to content

Teen Derm A.Z

Teen Derm A.Z

Product Description

Product overview

Made in Various INTERNATIONAL

Isispharma Teen Derm A.Z is an intensive triple-action anti-blemish cream powered by 15% Azelaic Acid — a clinically backed, non-photosensitizing concentration that targets severe imperfections, post-acne dark marks, and inflammation. This French dermo-cosmetic treatment combines azelaic acid with avocado-oil esters, Boswellia serrata extract, and the Aquaxyl moisturizing complex to soothe, mattify, and rebalance oily, acne-prone skin without prescription.

15% Azelaic Acid Pregnancy & Breastfeeding Safe Fragrance-Free Non-Comedogenic Non-Photosensitizing Dermatologically Tested Suitable from Age 10+ Paraben-Free Silicone-Free Sulfate-Free
Pregnancy
Yes
Fungal Acne
Caution
Comedogenic
1/5
Type
Treatment Cream
Size
30 ml
Key Active
15% Azelaic Acid
Origin
France
Use
AM & PM
Real reviews · YouTube Shorts
Why it's different

Triple Anti-Blemish Action

Targets active blemishes, post-acne dark marks, and inflammation simultaneously with a 23% active complex.

01

Texture & feel

SENSORY
Consistency
Light cream
Scent
Fragrance-free
Absorption
Fast (~30 sec)
Finish
Matte & fresh

Triple Anti-Blemish Action

Targets active blemishes, post-acne dark marks, and inflammation simultaneously with a 23% active complex.

Visible Results in 5 Days

Clinically proven: -19% reduction in inflammatory lesions at day 5, -92% in size of imperfections at day 56.

Pregnancy & Breastfeeding Approved

Azelaic acid is one of the very few acne actives considered safe by dermatologists during pregnancy and nursing.

Non-Photosensitizing

Unlike retinoids and AHAs, azelaic acid does not increase sun sensitivity — perfect for daytime use.

Plant-Based Azelaic Acid

Naturally sourced active derived from grains, formulated with the patented α-PURE® Advanced complex.

Avocado-Oil Esters

Plant-based 5α-reductase inhibitors regulate excess sebum without stripping or drying the skin.

02

Safety & compatibility

SAFE
Pregnancy & Breastfeeding Safe

Azelaic acid is widely recommended by dermatologists as one of the safest acne actives during pregnancy and lactation.

Fungal Acne (Malassezia) — Caution

Contains caprylic/capric triglyceride, polysorbate 60, and sorbitan isostearate which may feed Malassezia. Patch test if FA-prone.

Pairs Well with Niacinamide

Azelaic acid + niacinamide is a gold-standard combination for hyperpigmentation, redness, and acne.

Compatible with Vitamin C

Can be safely layered with Vitamin C in the same routine — many use Vit C in AM, A.Z in PM, or alternate.

Use Cautiously with Retinoids/AHAs/BHAs

Combining all three actives may cause irritation. Alternate nights or introduce gradually.

Daytime-Friendly

Non-photosensitizing — safe to use in the morning, but daily SPF is still essential for marks to fade.

Suitable from Age 10+

Toxicologically assessed by Isispharma as safe for use on children from 10 years of age.

Mild Tingling Possible

A short-lived stinging or warmth sensation is normal in the first few days and typically subsides as skin adapts.

03

Ingredient breakdown

INGREDIENTS

Azelaic Acid 15%Proven

The hero active — a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid produced by yeast on healthy skin and also derived from grains. At 15%, it works on multiple acne pathways simultaneously: it kills C. acnes bacteria, normalizes shedding inside pores (keratoregulation), reduces inflammation, and inhibits tyrosinase to fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

  • JAAD review: 15–20% azelaic acid is comparable to topical antibiotics and benzoyl peroxide for inflammatory acne.
  • Non-photosensitizing: Unlike AHAs and retinoids, it does not raise UV sensitivity.
  • Brand clinical data: -92% size of imperfections and -92% redness at day 56 in studies on 21 volunteers.
This is the highest commercial OTC concentration available — most international brands cap at 10% (in the US, 15% is prescription-only via Finacea/Azelex).

Butyl Avocadate (Avocado Oil Esters) ~3%Promising

Plant-derived avocado-oil esters with over 95% purity, produced via green chemistry. Acts as a 5α-reductase inhibitor, blocking the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT) — the hormone that drives sebum overproduction in oily and acne-prone skin.

  • Mechanism: Topical 5α-reductase inhibition reduces sebum output without systemic hormonal effects.
  • Brand clinical data: -49% sebum levels and 95% reported reduced shine after 5 days of use.

Boswellia Serrata Extract ~0.5%Promising

Indian frankincense extract rich in boswellic acids, traditionally used for anti-inflammatory action. In skincare, it inhibits the inflammatory cascade (5-lipoxygenase pathway) responsible for redness, tightness, and post-acne irritation, making the high-strength azelaic acid better tolerated.

  • Function: Calms inflammation pathways implicated in active breakouts.
  • Synergy: Reduces the typical irritation profile of azelaic acid at 15%.

Aquaxyl Complex (Xylitylglucoside + Anhydroxylitol + Xylitol) ~3%Proven

A patented plant-sugar complex from Seppic that delivers "3-D hydration." It boosts the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) like hyaluronic acid, supports lipid synthesis (ceramides, cholesterol), and reduces transepidermal water loss — crucial when using a high-strength acid.

  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology study: 4% Aquaxyl performed comparably to urea as a moisturizer.
  • In vivo testing: Improves cracked, dry skin and smooths surface texture after one month.

Glycerin 1.6–2.3%Proven

The most studied humectant in skincare. Pulls water into the upper layers of the skin, supports the barrier, and reduces irritation potential of stronger actives.

  • 2016 study: Found more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.
  • Barrier support: Helps maintain skin's resilience while azelaic acid is exfoliating.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.8–5.7%Proven

A lightweight, coconut-derived emollient that gives the cream its silky, non-greasy feel and helps disperse the azelaic acid evenly across the skin without occluding pores.

  • Comedogenicity: Rated 1/5 — very low pore-clogging risk.
  • Tolerance: Excellent for sensitive and acne-prone skin.
This is a fatty-acid ester that may feed Malassezia yeast, so users with confirmed fungal acne should patch-test first.

Tocopherol (Vitamin E) <1%Proven

Lipid-soluble antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals, stabilizes the formula, and supports the skin barrier alongside azelaic acid.

  • Pairs with azelaic acid: Both are antioxidant — together they offer broader free-radical protection.

23 ingredients

Aqua (Water), Azelaic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Butyl Avocadate, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Xylitylglucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sclerotium Gum, Chlorphenesin, Boswellia Serrata Extract, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Tocopherol.

FREE FROM: Fragrance/parfum, essential oils, parabens, sulfates, silicones, mineral oil, harsh alcohols, common allergens, animal-derived ingredients.
04

Where it fits in your routine

ROUTINE
1
Cleanser
2
Toner
3
Teen Derm A.Z
4
Moisturizer
5
Sunscreen (AM)

Apply Teen Derm A.Z after cleansing on dry skin, before heavier moisturizers. Use morning and evening, locally on imperfections or all over the affected zones. Always finish with SPF 30+ in the AM to help post-acne marks fade faster.

05

How to use

HOW TO USE
1

Cleanse

Wash your face with a gentle cleanser (Isispharma recommends Teen Derm Sensitive Gel) and pat completely dry with a clean towel.

2

Apply a small amount

Dispense a pea-sized amount and apply locally on imperfections or evenly across affected areas, avoiding the eye contour. In case of contact with eyes, rinse thoroughly with clean water.

3

Massage until absorbed

Gently massage in upward motions for 20–30 seconds. The texture is non-greasy and non-sticky with an immediate fresh, mattifying effect. Do not rinse.

4

Follow with moisturizer & SPF

Layer a lightweight moisturizer if your skin feels tight, and always apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ in the morning to support fading of dark marks.

5

Frequency

Use morning and evening daily. A short, mild tingling sensation in the first days is normal and disappears as skin adapts.

06

Who is it for?

WHO

Perfect for you if:

  • You have oily or combination skin with persistent breakouts
  • You struggle with post-acne dark marks (PIH) or red marks (PIE)
  • You're pregnant or breastfeeding and need a safe acne option
  • You can't use retinoids or BHA but still want strong actives
  • You want a non-photosensitizing daytime acne treatment
  • You have sensitive, redness-prone skin needing gentler exfoliation
  • You're a teen (10+) starting a serious anti-blemish routine

Consider alternatives if:

  • You have very dry skin without a barrier-supportive moisturizer
  • You're confirmed Malassezia-folliculitis prone (FA caution)
  • You have nodulocystic acne — see a dermatologist for prescription options
  • You've had previous reactions to azelaic acid
  • You prefer fragranced, sensorial cosmetic textures
  • You want a quick spot treatment rather than a full-face product
07

Skin type compatibility

SKIN TYPES
Oily Skin
Excellent

Mattifying finish, sebum-regulating avocado esters, and fast absorption — exactly what oily skin needs.

Combination
Excellent

Balances the T-zone without dehydrating drier cheeks thanks to the Aquaxyl moisturizing complex.

Acne-Prone
Excellent

15% azelaic acid is one of the most effective non-prescription tools for inflammatory acne and PIH.

Sensitive Skin
Good

Fragrance-free with Boswellia for soothing, but mild tingling is common in the first week. Patch test first.

Dry Skin
Moderate

Hydrating elements help, but dry skin should layer a richer moisturizer on top to prevent tightness.

Mature Skin
Good

Brightens dark spots and evens tone — bonus benefits beyond acne. Pair with hydrating serum.

08

Results timeline

MONTH 3+
Day 1–5

Initial Adjustment Phase

Mild tingling on application, immediate mattifying effect. Brand clinical data shows -49% sebum levels, -19% inflammatory lesion size, 100% reduction in blackhead appearance.

95% noticed reduced shine
Week 2–4

Visible Blemish Reduction

Active pimples shrink faster, fewer new breakouts forming. Skin texture begins smoothing as keratoregulation kicks in.

~70% reported clearer skin
Week 6–8

Marks & Redness Fading

Brand 56-day study (21 volunteers): -92% size of imperfections, -92% redness of imperfections. Post-acne marks visibly lighter.

92% measurable improvement
Month 3+

Long-Term Maintenance

Skin tone is more even, hyperpigmentation continues to fade, and recurrence of breakouts is significantly reduced with consistent use.

~85% see lasting results
09

Ratings by platform

850+ REVIEWS
Amazon (FR/DE/EU)
4.3
Rating
500+
Reviews
Main complaint: Mild stinging in first few days, small 30 ml tube depletes quickly with twice-daily use.
Isispharma & French Pharmacy
4.7
Rating
200+
Reviews
Main complaint: Limited availability outside Europe — not officially distributed in the US.
SkinSort
5.0
Rating
136
Routines
Main complaint: Some users mention the price is high relative to the small 30 ml tube size.
Easypara
4.6
Rating
150+
Reviews
Main complaint: Aluminum tube packaging is not recyclable in all regions.
10

Pros & cons

BALANCED

Praised

  • Highest OTC concentration (15%) of azelaic acid available
  • Genuinely lightweight, non-greasy, mattifying texture
  • Pregnancy- and breastfeeding-safe acne treatment
  • Visible results within 2–4 weeks of consistent use
  • Non-photosensitizing — safe for AM and PM
  • Fragrance-free, silicone-free, paraben-free formula
  • Backed by clinical data and dermatologist testing
  • Effective for both active acne AND post-acne marks

Criticized

  • Small 30 ml tube — runs out quickly with twice-daily use
  • Mild tingling/stinging during the adjustment phase
  • Pricier than 10% azelaic acid drugstore alternatives
  • Limited official availability outside the EU
  • May feed Malassezia for fungal-acne-prone users
  • Aluminum packaging difficult to recycle
  • Dry skin types need an extra moisturizing layer
11

Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)

DUPES
70% Match
Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
$10.90
Budget Pick

Lower 10% concentration vs. 15%, silicone-based suspension texture (vs. cream). Affordable starter, but more drying and less effective for severe blemishes than Teen Derm A.Z.

82% Match
Azelaic Topical Acid 10%
$22.00
Similar Texture

Lightweight emulsion texture closely mirrors Teen Derm A.Z's feel. Uses partial azelaic-acid derivative (potassium azeloyl diglycinate) at 10% — gentler but less potent against severe acne.

75% Match
10% Azelaic Acid Booster
$39.00
Similar Profile

Adds salicylic acid for extra exfoliation but with a heavier finish. 10% concentration only; better suited to mild-moderate acne than the severe imperfections Teen Derm A.Z is built for.

88% Match
Azéane Cream
$28.00
Direct Alternative

Another French pharmacy 15% azelaic acid cream — closest direct alternative. Slightly different supporting ingredients (allantoin instead of Boswellia) but very similar performance and concentration.

12

Comparison with competitors

SIDE-BY-SIDE
Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Active 10% Azelaic Acid
Size 30 ml
Texture Silicone paste
Fragrance Free
Pregnancy Safe Yes
Photosensitizing No
Origin Canada
10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Active 10% Azelaic + 0.5% BHA
Size 30 ml
Texture Heavy lotion
Fragrance Free
Pregnancy Safe Caution (BHA)
Photosensitizing Mild (BHA)
Origin USA
Azelaic Topical Acid 10%
Active 10% (incl. derivative)
Size 30 ml
Texture Light emulsion
Fragrance Free
Pregnancy Safe Yes
Photosensitizing No
Origin USA
13

Storage & shelf life

6 MONTHS
Period After Opening (PAO)

6 months after opening — use the product within 6M of breaking the seal for full potency.

Storage

Store in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and high humidity. Keep tightly closed.

Packaging

30 ml aluminum tube — protects azelaic acid from air and light to maintain stability.

Travel Friendly

Yes — 30 ml fits within carry-on liquid limits (under 100 ml) for international flights.

13

Frequently asked questions

FAQ

Yes. Azelaic acid is widely recognized by dermatologists as one of the safest acne-fighting actives during pregnancy and breastfeeding, and Isispharma explicitly indicates Teen Derm A.Z for use during pregnancy and lactation. The formula is also free of retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, and chemical sunscreen filters. As always, check with your OB/GYN or dermatologist if you have any specific concerns.

Caution advised. Azelaic acid itself is FA-friendly and even has some antifungal activity, but the formula contains caprylic/capric triglyceride, polysorbate 60, and sorbitan isostearate — ingredients that can feed Malassezia in sensitive individuals. If you have confirmed fungal acne, patch test on a small area for 2–3 weeks before applying to the full face.

Yes, with care. Azelaic acid pairs especially well with niacinamide (gold-standard combination) and vitamin C (use one in AM, the other in PM, or layer with a buffer). Combining with retinoids, AHAs, or BHAs is possible but increases irritation risk — alternate nights or introduce one at a time. If you start to see flaking, redness, or stinging, scale back to once daily and rebuild slowly.

It's best suited for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin with severe blemishes, post-acne marks, and inflammation. Sensitive skin tolerates it well thanks to the Boswellia and Aquaxyl complex. Dry skin can use it but should layer a richer moisturizer on top to prevent tightness. Suitable from age 10 and up.

Brand clinical data shows first visible results within 5 days: -49% sebum, -19% inflammatory lesion size, reduced shine for 95% of users. By day 56, the same study (21 volunteers) reported -92% size of imperfections and -92% redness. Most users notice clearer skin within 2–4 weeks and significant fading of post-acne marks by week 6–8 with consistent twice-daily use.

Apply after cleansing (and toning, if you tone) on clean, dry skin — before heavier moisturizers and sunscreen. Use morning and evening. Give the cream 1–2 minutes to absorb before layering anything else. In the AM, always finish with broad-spectrum SPF 30+ to help post-acne marks fade and protect freshly treated skin.

No — the formula is non-comedogenic and dermatologically tested. It's rated 1/5 on the comedogenicity scale based on its key emollients (caprylic/capric triglyceride). The lightweight, non-greasy, mattifying texture is specifically designed for oily, acne-prone skin and won't clog pores.

The Period After Opening (PAO) is 6 months — indicated by the symbol on the tube. After 6 months, the azelaic acid may begin to lose potency. Store in a cool, dry place, keep the tube tightly closed, and avoid exposing it to direct sunlight or steamy bathroom conditions to maintain effectiveness.

— Skincarisma verdict
4.5 / 5 ★★★★★

Verdict: Isispharma Teen Derm A.Z is one of the few over-the-counter products that delivers a clinically meaningful 15% azelaic acid concentration in a genuinely well-formulated, non-greasy cream. It's an exceptional choice for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin dealing with severe blemishes and post-acne dark marks — and one of the best pregnancy-safe acne treatments available. The triple-action formula (anti-blemish, anti-mark, anti-inflammatory), backed by published Isispharma clinical data, plus its non-photosensitizing, fragrance-free, dermatologist-tested credentials, place it ahead of most 10% azelaic acid alternatives. Minor drawbacks: the small 30 ml tube, brief initial tingling, and slightly higher price tag than drugstore dupes. If you can afford it and want pharmaceutical-grade results without a prescription, this is the azelaic acid product to beat.

Product Overview

question
lightbulb What are Quick Product Notes?

Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.

muscle Pro Tip Alert!

Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.

Awesome, I Understand!

Quick Product Notes

Click on icons for more information
question
lightbulb What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?

Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.

We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.

muscle Pro Tip Alert!

Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.

Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you

Awesome, I Understand!

Notable Effects & Ingredients

anti-aging Anti-Aging from 2 ingredient(s):
Citric Acid Tocopherol
brightening Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Azelaic Acid Glycerin Citric Acid
wound Promotes Wound Healing from 4 ingredient(s):
Azelaic Acid Glycerin Citric Acid Tocopherol
ache Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
Azelaic Acid
question
lightbulb What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?

Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.

We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.

muscle Pro Tip Alert!

A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.

One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!

Awesome, I Understand!

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Click on icons for more information
dry-skin Dry Skin
2
oily-skin Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
2
sensitive-skin Sensitive Skin
question
lightbulb What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?

Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.

muscle Pro Tip Alert!

EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.

Awesome, I Understand!

Ingredient Safety Breakdown

EWG Health Ratings
Low risk
Medium risk
High risk
Unknown risk
65% 8% 26%

Product ingredient list

Showing first 5 of 23 ingredients
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1 Unknown
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
1 A
Azelaic Acid
Masking, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Buffering
brightening Brightening
ache Ache-fighting
Promotes Wound Healing
Redness
Irritation
Texture
Pores
1 A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming, Emollient
1 A
Pentylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
1 B
Butyl Avocadate
Skin Conditioning
VIEW ALL INGREDIENTS