35% Vitamin C+ Perfecting Serum
35% Vitamin C+ Perfecting Serum
Product Description
Allies of Skin's 35% Vitamin C+ Perfecting Serum is the world's first and only waterless Vitamin C formula at a 35% concentration. It pairs 25% Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid with 10% oil-soluble Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, supercharged by an antioxidant complex of Glutathione and Superoxide Dismutase to brighten, firm and shield skin against pollution and free-radical damage.
β¨ Texture & Feel
Dual Vitamin C System
Combines water-loving 25% Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid with oil-soluble 10% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate so both surface and deeper skin layers get antioxidant protection.
Waterless & Stable
The world's first waterless 35% Vitamin C formula. Removing water keeps the actives clear, potent and far less prone to oxidation than typical water-based serums.
Antioxidant Booster Complex
Glutathione and Superoxide Dismutase reinforce the Vitamin C, neutralizing free radicals and supporting a brighter, more even-looking tone.
Minimalist 10-Ingredient Formula
No fragrance, no harsh alcohols, no silicones, no oils β just ten ingredients, which suits reactive and acne-prone skin looking to avoid clutter.
π‘οΈ Safety & Compatibility
Contains no retinoids, hydroquinone, salicylic acid or chemical sunscreens. The brand states it is safe during pregnancy β always confirm with your doctor first.
No free fatty acids, problematic esters or polysorbates that feed malassezia. Verified fungal-acne safe.
Oil-free base with a comedogenic rating of around 1/5 β unlikely to clog pores for most users.
Generally pairs well with most steps, but avoid layering directly with strong exfoliating acids or benzoyl peroxide in the same routine. Use Vitamin C in the AM and acids/retinoids in the PM.
Vitamin C boosts daytime antioxidant defense, but it is not a sunscreen. Always follow with broad-spectrum SPF in the morning.
At 35%, this is a high-strength formula. Very sensitive or first-time Vitamin C users should patch test and start every other day.
π¬ Ingredient Breakdown
π 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid 25% Proven
Also known as Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid, this is a highly stable Vitamin C derivative that converts to pure Vitamin C in the skin. It brightens, fades dark spots and supports collagen with less irritation than raw ascorbic acid.
- Source: Interferes with melanin production to reduce hyperpigmentation and encourages collagen synthesis.
- Source: Optimal performance occurs in a pH range of roughly 4 β 5.5.
π§ Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) 10% Proven
A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that travels deeper into the skin's fatty layers than traditional ascorbic acid, delivering antioxidant protection and brightening from within.
- Source: Shows measurable antioxidant activity even at very low concentrations (~0.1%).
- Source: 5%+ is associated with fading dark spots; this serum uses a generous 10%.
𧬠Glutathione Booster Promising
A master antioxidant made of three amino acids that protects skin cells from oxidative damage and is widely associated with brightening and a more even tone.
- Source: Demonstrated to help protect skin against UV-B-induced damage.
- Source: Topical brightening evidence is still emerging; works best as a supporting antioxidant.
π‘οΈ Superoxide Dismutase (SOD) Booster Proven
A powerful enzymatic antioxidant found in all living cells. It breaks down reactive free-radical molecules, helping to calm inflammation and defend against signs of aging.
- Source: Neutralizes radical molecules into harmless oxygen and hydrogen peroxide.
- Source: Used to support chronic inflammation thanks to its antioxidant action.
π Ethoxydiglycol Solvent Proven
A synthetic solvent and penetration helper that keeps the waterless formula stable and aids delivery of the Vitamin C actives into the skin.
- Source: Helps dissolve and evenly distribute actives while improving their absorption.
π§ Dimethyl Isosorbide Solvent Proven
A low-irritation, glucose-derived solvent that boosts how effectively the active ingredients penetrate the skin.
- Source: Penetration support depends on the active and formulation rather than concentration alone.
10 ingredients
Ethoxydiglycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Glutathione, Superoxide Dismutase, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol.
π Where It Fits in Your Routine
Apply early in your routine on slightly damp skin, before heavier creams. For best results use in the AM under sunscreen; an exfoliating acid can be saved for your PM routine.
π How to Use
Shake well
Because it's a waterless suspension, shake the bottle before every use so the formula returns to its smooth, even state.
Cleanse & lightly dampen
Apply to clean skin that is slightly damp β the brand recommends damp application for best absorption.
Press in 2β3 drops
A little goes a long way. Gently press a few drops over the face and neck; it may feel briefly oily before settling.
Follow with moisturizer + SPF
Wait ~30 seconds for it to absorb, then layer your moisturizer. In the morning, always finish with broad-spectrum sunscreen.
π€ Who Is It For?
β Perfect for you if:
- You want a high-strength, results-driven Vitamin C for brightening and dullness
- You have oily, combination or acne-prone skin and dislike sticky textures
- You're an experienced Vitamin C user ready to step up from a 15β20% formula
- You want a fragrance-free, fungal-acne-safe, minimalist formula
β Consider alternatives if:
- You're brand new to Vitamin C and have very reactive skin
- You dislike any temporary oily slip on application
- You want a classic L-Ascorbic Acid + Ferulic + Vitamin E combination
- You're shopping on a tight budget β this sits at a premium price point
π― Skin Type Compatibility
Oil-free and lightweight; absorbs quickly to a non-sticky glow without adding heaviness.
Delivers antioxidant benefits but offers little hydration β layer a richer moisturizer on top.
Balances brightening across the face without overwhelming the drier zones.
Fragrance-free and gentle forms of Vitamin C, but 35% is potent β patch test and ease in slowly.
Non-comedogenic and fungal-acne safe, with no pore-clogging oils or fatty acids.
π Results Timeline
Immediate Glow
Skin looks fresher with a subtle dewy radiance straight after the first application.
~70% noticed a glowBrighter, More Even Tone
Many users report a brighter complexion and more luminous skin within the first couple of weeks.
~60% noticed brighteningFading Dark Spots & Smoother Texture
With daily use, post-blemish marks and dark spots begin to fade and skin feels smoother and firmer.
~55% saw fading spotsFirmer, Resilient Skin
Sustained antioxidant support contributes to plumper, firmer-looking skin and improved overall clarity.
~50% saw firmer skinβ Ratings by Platform
βοΈ Pros & Cons
β Praised
- Visible glow and brightening, often within a couple of weeks
- Lightweight, absorbs quickly and isn't sticky
- No tingle or burn that some L-Ascorbic Acid serums cause
- Opaque pump bottle protects the formula from light
- A little product goes a long way
β Criticized
- Premium price for a 30ml bottle
- Brief oily slip on application can surprise some users
- Pump packaging can occasionally leak or over-dispense
- Can crystallize if stored in cold conditions (shake to fix)
- 35% may be too strong for very sensitive or new users
π° Budget-Friendly Alternatives (Dupes)
An oil-soluble THD Vitamin C at 20%, echoing the THD portion of this serum. It lacks the high ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid and antioxidant boosters, but is a great low-cost way to get deep-penetrating Vitamin C.
Uses multiple stable Vitamin C forms plus supporting antioxidants for brightening at a fraction of the price. Lower overall potency and a more conventional water-based texture.
Shares the same hero ingredient (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) at a lower 15% strength. Missing THD, Glutathione and SOD, so less of the firming, multi-antioxidant punch.
A classic water-based L-Ascorbic Acid + E + Ferulic combo. Different chemistry and a more traditional Vitamin C feel, but a proven and very affordable brightener.
π Comparison with Competitors
Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C+ (Featured)
$108SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic
$182Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C
$85Allies of Skin 20% Vitamin C Brighten + Firm
$95π¦ Storage & Shelf Life
6 months after opening for peak Vitamin C potency
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct light; shake well before each use. Avoid very cold spots, which can cause crystallization.
Opaque, light-protective bottle with pump dispenser
Yes β 30ml, well under the 100ml carry-on limit
β Frequently Asked Questions
Yes. The formula contains no retinoids, hydroquinone, salicylic acid or chemical sunscreen filters, and the brand states it is safe to use during pregnancy. Vitamin C is generally considered pregnancy-friendly, but you should always confirm with your doctor or OB-GYN before introducing any active during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Yes. The formula has been verified as fungal-acne safe. It contains no free fatty acids, problematic esters, polysorbates or fermented ingredients that malassezia yeast can feed on, making it a good fit for those prone to fungal acne.
Yes, with smart scheduling. The cleanest approach is to use this Vitamin C serum in the morning and reserve retinol or exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA) for the evening to minimize irritation. Niacinamide is generally fine to pair with modern, stable Vitamin C like the forms used here. Avoid layering it directly with strong acids in the same routine if your skin is sensitive.
It performs best on oily, combination and acne-prone skin thanks to its lightweight, oil-free, non-comedogenic base. Dry skin can use it but should layer a richer moisturizer on top. Sensitive skin should patch test first and ease in slowly, since 35% is a high concentration of Vitamin C.
Many users notice an immediate glow on the first use and visible brightening within one to two weeks. Dark spots and post-blemish marks typically begin to fade over four to eight weeks of consistent daily use, with firmer, more even-looking skin developing over twelve weeks and beyond.
Apply it early in your routine, after cleansing (and toner/essence if you use them) on slightly damp skin, and before heavier serums, moisturizer and sunscreen. It works best in the AM so its antioxidants can support your skin against daytime free-radical exposure β just remember to follow with SPF.
It's very unlikely to clog pores. The formula is oil-free with a comedogenic rating of around 1/5 and is fungal-acne safe. While it may feel slightly oily for the first 30 seconds because of its waterless base, that sensation fades as the serum absorbs and it does not leave a pore-clogging residue.
Use it within about 6 months of opening for the best Vitamin C potency. Although the waterless formula is more stable than typical water-based Vitamin C serums, Vitamin C still degrades with time, light and heat. Keep the bottle closed, store it in a cool, dry, dark place and shake before each use.
Verdict: The Allies of Skin 35% Vitamin C+ Perfecting Serum is a standout for experienced users who want serious antioxidant power in a clean, minimalist package. Its waterless 35% formula pairs two stable Vitamin C forms with Glutathione and Superoxide Dismutase to brighten, fade dark spots and firm β all while staying fragrance-free, oil-free and fungal-acne safe. The premium price and a brief oily slip on application are the main trade-offs, but for visible glow and protection, it earns its loyal repeat-buyers.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skinβs own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging Β«promisesΒ» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 2 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 2 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Ethoxydiglycol
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
|
|
|
| 0 |
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
|
Redness
Texture
Pores
|
|
| 1 |
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
|
Brightening
Anti-Aging
Redness
Texture
Pores
|
|
| 1 |
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling
|
|
|
| 1 |
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
|
|