AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser
AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser
Product Description
Product overview
A dual-action exfoliating face wash from SkinMedica that harnesses both alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) alongside gentle jojoba microspheres to dissolve dead skin, unclog pores, and visibly refine skin tone and texture — all without stripping the skin's moisture barrier. Formulated with naturally derived fruit acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, citric), salicylic acid, soothing bisabolol, and brightening licorice root extract for a balanced, spa-grade cleanse suited to everyday use.
Natural Fruit Acid Complex (AHA)
Glycolic, lactic, malic, and citric acids sourced from bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple, and citrus fruits gently resurface the skin to reduce fine lines and improve luminosity.
Texture & feel
SENSORYNatural Fruit Acid Complex (AHA)
Glycolic, lactic, malic, and citric acids sourced from bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple, and citrus fruits gently resurface the skin to reduce fine lines and improve luminosity.
Salicylic Acid (BHA) Pore Clearing
Oil-soluble salicylic acid penetrates deep into follicles to dissolve sebum, reduce blackheads, and prevent blemishes — ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.
Jojoba Microspheres — Dual Exfoliation
Ultra-fine, perfectly round hydrogenated jojoba oil beads provide gentle physical exfoliation without microtears, buffing away dead cells while moisturizing simultaneously.
Soothing Botanicals
Bisabolol (from chamomile), panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), and glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice root) calm redness, reduce post-exfoliation sensitivity, and help fade dark spots.
Brightening & Dark Spot Correction
Licorice root extract and bilberry extract synergize to inhibit melanin synthesis, visibly diminishing hyperpigmentation and promoting an even, radiant complexion over time.
Gentle Enough for Daily Use
Unlike many exfoliators that require alternate-day use, this formula's balanced acid concentration and jojoba microspheres make it gentle enough for twice-daily application on tolerant skin.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains salicylic acid (BHA), which is generally advised against in higher concentrations during pregnancy. As a rinse-off cleanser, systemic absorption is minimal, but consult your OB/GYN or midwife before use. AHAs in rinse-off formats are considered lower risk, but caution is recommended. Not for use by pregnant individuals without medical clearance.
This formula does not contain problematic fermented ingredients, polysorbates, or high-risk fatty acid esters that feed Malassezia. The salicylic acid actually helps control fungal-related congestion. Considered safe for fungal acne-prone skin.
Hydrogenated jojoba oil is a non-comedogenic physical exfoliant — the hydrogenation process makes it a solid wax, not a pore-clogging oil. No known high-comedogenic ingredients. Safe for acne-prone and congested skin types.
AHAs increase photosensitivity. Always apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen after morning use and limit prolonged sun exposure. This is especially important during the first week of use and throughout continued use.
Contains lavender oil (Lavandula Angustifolia Oil) and citrus peel oil. Those with fragrance sensitivity or allergies to essential oils should patch test first. Not fragrance-free — not ideal for those with highly reactive contact dermatitis.
Uses Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine — milder surfactants that produce a gentle foam without the stripping effect of traditional SLS. Suitable for dry and sensitive skin types when used as directed.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSVaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Fruit/Leaf Extract ~1–3%Proven
Bilberry extract is a key source of naturally derived lactic and glycolic acid precursors, delivering AHA-type exfoliation. It also contains powerful anthocyanin antioxidants that neutralize free radicals and help fade UV-induced hyperpigmentation. Paired with the other fruit extracts in the ACB Fruit Mix complex used by SkinMedica.
- Mechanism: Contains AHA-precursor acids that gently loosen corneocyte bonds for smoother skin texture.
- Antioxidant activity: Anthocyanins in bilberry offer documented anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties.
- Synergy: Works in concert with sugar cane, sugar maple, and citrus extracts to deliver a balanced multi-acid exfoliation.
Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract ~1–3%Proven
Sugar cane extract is a rich source of glycolic acid — the smallest and most penetrating of all AHAs. It functions as both a humectant (attracting moisture) and a mild chemical exfoliant, improving cell turnover and skin luminosity. A foundational component of the ACB Fruit Mix complex.
- Glycolic acid relationship: Saccharum is the botanical source from which glycolic acid is derived; the extract retains glycolic acid activity.
- Humectant function: Sugarcane polysaccharides attract and retain water in the epidermis.
- Manufacturer data: 5% of the ACB Fruit Mix increases cellular renewal by 24% (vs. 33% for 4% pure glycolic acid).
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract + Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract ~1–2%Proven
Both extracts contribute citric and malic acids, natural AHAs with exfoliating and brightening effects. They also contain vitamin C precursors (ascorbic acid) and flavonoids with antioxidant activity. The orange peel oil (later in the list) additionally functions as a mild astringent, helping to minimize pore appearance.
- Citric acid content: Natural AHA known for improving skin texture, reducing fine lines, and brightening tone.
- Astringent effect: Citrus oils act as mild pore-refining agents, helping to reduce excess sebum and tighten large pores.
- Vitamin C: Oranges are high in ascorbic acid, though concentration in extract form may vary by processing method.
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract ~1–2%Proven
Sugar maple extract contains malic acid — an AHA known for its hydrating and mild exfoliating properties. Malic acid is gentler than glycolic acid, making it ideal for adding skin-smoothing effects without excessive irritation. Completes the full spectrum of naturally derived AHAs in this formula.
- Malic acid source: Naturally derived from maple sap; provides AHA-type exfoliation with a larger molecular weight than glycolic, meaning less irritation potential.
- Hydration support: Malic acid also functions as a humectant, improving skin hydration alongside its exfoliating effect.
Salicylic Acid (BHA) ~0.5–2%Proven
Salicylic acid is the star BHA ingredient — oil-soluble and capable of penetrating deep into sebaceous follicles to dissolve sebum, clear blackheads, and reduce acne lesions. It also has anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial properties, making it particularly beneficial for oily and blemish-prone skin.
- Pore penetration: Oil solubility allows salicylic acid to work inside pores where water-soluble AHAs cannot reach.
- Clinical evidence: Studies show consistent use of salicylic acid can reduce acne lesion counts by 30–50% over 8 weeks.
- Keratolytic action: Loosens keratin in pore walls, physically clearing plugged follicles and preventing new comedone formation.
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Microspheres) ~2–5%Proven
Hydrogenated jojoba oil forms perfectly round, biodegradable microspheres used as gentle physical exfoliants. Unlike synthetic microplastic beads (now banned in many countries), jojoba spheres are eco-friendly, break down naturally, and do not cause microtears in the skin. They buff away dead cells while simultaneously moisturizing with natural jojoba wax.
- Non-comedogenic: Hydrogenation converts liquid jojoba oil into a solid wax — rated 0–1 on comedogenic scales.
- Biodegradable: Unlike PE microbeads, jojoba spheres are environmentally safe and sustainable.
- Dual function: Simultaneously exfoliates and conditions; does not strip lipid barrier like abrasive scrub particles.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract ~0.5–1%Promising
Licorice root extract contains glabridin, a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that reduces melanin production and visibly fades dark spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and sun damage. It also has documented anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, helping to calm skin post-exfoliation.
- Glabridin: Inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity by up to 50% in vitro, reducing new melanin synthesis.
- Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness and sensitivity, complementing the exfoliating actives in this formula.
- Brightening synergy: Works well alongside AHAs for enhanced dark spot correction without the irritation of hydroquinone.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) ~0.5–1%Proven
Panthenol is a humectant and skin-conditioning agent that converts to pantothenic acid in the skin, supporting barrier repair and moisture retention. It soothes post-exfoliation irritation and helps maintain optimal skin hydration levels, ensuring the formula cleanses without leaving skin tight or dry.
- Barrier repair: Stimulates fibroblast proliferation and supports epidermal barrier function.
- Humectant: Attracts and retains water in the stratum corneum, preventing moisture loss after cleansing.
- Anti-irritant: Clinical studies confirm panthenol reduces erythema and irritation following chemical exfoliation procedures.
Bisabolol ~0.1–0.5%Proven
Bisabolol is a skin-calming ingredient derived from chamomile (or synthesized identically to natural bisabolol). It significantly reduces redness, sensitivity, and irritation — an ideal pairing with exfoliating acids to buffer post-cleansing sensitivity. Also exhibits mild antimicrobial properties.
- Anti-inflammatory: Inhibits NF-κB pathway, reducing cytokine-mediated skin inflammation.
- Wound healing support: Accelerates skin repair and reduces post-inflammatory redness.
- Antimicrobial: Mild activity against acne-causing bacteria, complementing salicylic acid's effect.
27 ingredients
Water/Aqua/Eau, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG/PPG-8/3 Diisostearate, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, Acrylates Copolymer, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Salicylic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Panthenol, Bisabolol, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Mica, Tin Oxide, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse as Step 1 — the very first product in both your morning and evening routine. Since this is a rinse-off cleanser, it preps skin for maximum absorption of subsequent serums and treatments. Always follow AM use with SPF 30+.
How to use
HOW TO USEWet Your Face with Warm Water
Dampen skin with lukewarm water before applying. Avoid hot water — it can strip natural oils and increase irritation from the exfoliating actives.
Dispense a Small Amount
Squeeze a pea-to-dime-sized amount onto clean fingertips. A little goes a long way — using too much does not increase efficacy.
Add a Drop of Water & Lather
Add a small drop of water to the product on your fingertips and work into a light lather. This activates the surfactants and distributes the jojoba microspheres evenly.
Massage in Small Circular Motions
Gently work the cleanser into skin using small, light circular motions for approximately 30–60 seconds. Avoid vigorous scrubbing — let the acids and microspheres do the work. Cover face and neck area.
Rinse Thoroughly with Warm Water
Rinse completely to remove all product. Avoid leaving any residue on skin. Pat dry gently with a clean towel — do not rub.
Follow with Sunscreen (Morning) or Treatment (Evening)
In the AM, always follow with a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen. In the PM, follow with your targeted serums and moisturizer. Start with once daily if new to AHA/BHA products.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have oily, combination, or acne-prone skin that needs regular pore clearing
- You want to address dull skin, uneven texture, and visible pores in one step
- You're looking for a gentle daily exfoliator that won't strip the skin
- You want to prep skin for better absorption of serums and treatments
- You have hyperpigmentation, dark spots, or post-acne marks to fade
- You appreciate eco-friendly biodegradable physical exfoliation
- You want a dermatologist-developed, medically-backed formula
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding (salicylic acid requires physician clearance)
- You have highly fragrance-reactive skin or essential oil allergies
- You are already using a strong leave-on AHA/BHA toner daily (may over-exfoliate)
- You have active eczema, rosacea flare-ups, or broken/compromised skin
- You are seeking a completely fragrance-free cleanser
- You want extremely intensive physical exfoliation with large grit particles
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESSalicylic acid penetrates oil-clogged pores while the gel-foam formula cuts through excess sebum without leaving residue. Twice-daily use is well-tolerated for controlling shine and preventing breakouts.
Panthenol and glycerin prevent over-drying. Best used once daily (PM) on dry skin, followed by a rich moisturizer. Start with 3x per week if skin is very dry or dehydrated.
The dual AHA + BHA approach addresses both oily T-zone concerns and dry cheek areas in a single wash. Widely regarded as ideal for combination skin in clinical settings.
Bisabolol and panthenol help mitigate irritation. However, the essential oil fragrance and acid combination may not suit very reactive or rosacea-prone skin. Patch test required; start with 2–3x per week.
Salicylic acid + AHAs + bisabolol create an ideal triple-action formula for blemish-prone skin — clearing pores, reducing inflammation, and preventing future breakouts simultaneously.
Glycolic and lactic acids promote cellular turnover, reducing the appearance of fine lines and age spots. SkinMedica's dermatologist audience originally used this as an anti-aging cleansing step.
Results timeline
MONTH 2–3Immediate Softness & Brightness
The combination of physical jojoba microspheres and chemical AHAs delivers an immediate smoothing effect after the first wash. Skin feels noticeably softer and looks slightly more radiant due to dead cell removal.
90% noticed softer skin immediatelyClearer Pores & Reduced Breakouts
Salicylic acid begins clearing clogged follicles. Blackheads become less visible and new pimple formation decreases. Skin texture starts to even out perceptibly. Some users report initial purging — normal and temporary.
75% saw reduced breakouts within 2 weeksImproved Tone, Texture & Glow
Consistent AHA action noticeably accelerates cellular turnover. Dullness decreases, skin tone becomes more even, and pore size appears visibly reduced. Post-acne marks begin to lighten with licorice root extract working cumulatively.
80% reported improved skin tone at 4 weeksVisible Hyperpigmentation Reduction & Anti-Aging Effects
Sustained glycolic and lactic acid exfoliation visibly reduces fine lines and dark spots. Licorice root's glabridin continues inhibiting melanin production. Users report consistently glass-like skin texture and significantly less acne with ongoing use.
70% saw improvement in dark spots at 8 weeksRatings by platform
5K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Dual physical + chemical exfoliation in one step
- Leaves skin feeling clean without tightness or stripping
- Noticeable improvement in skin tone and texture within weeks
- Gentle enough for daily use on most skin types
- Addresses acne, aging, and hyperpigmentation simultaneously
- Biodegradable jojoba microspheres (eco-friendly)
- Calming bisabolol and panthenol prevent over-irritation
- Dermatologist-backed, used in medical spa settings
- Pleasant mild citrus-lavender scent
- Good value per use for a dermatologist-grade cleanser
Criticized
- Contains essential oil fragrance — not suitable for fragrance-reactive skin
- New screw-top packaging is less convenient than previous flip-top
- Higher price point ($42–$48 for 6 oz) vs. drugstore alternatives
- Not safe for use during pregnancy without physician clearance (salicylic acid)
- Exfoliation may feel too gentle for those accustomed to intense scrubs
- AHAs increase sun sensitivity — requires consistent SPF use
- Some oily skin users may need a stronger BHA concentration for severe acne
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Direct competitor with a very similar dual AHA + BHA concept. Uses glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid. Slightly more foamy texture, comparable exfoliation level. Does not include jojoba microspheres but adds chamomile for soothing. For those who prefer a creamier lather, Murad is an excellent parallel option.
Fragrance-free, gentle BHA-focused cleanser at roughly half the price. Contains salicylic acid but lacks the full natural AHA fruit complex and physical jojoba exfoliation. Better suited for fragrance-sensitive users or those who want purely chemical exfoliation without any microbeads.
Premium alternative with rice enzyme powder activated by water. Offers AHA + salicylic acid in a unique dry powder format that creates a creamy paste. More intensive brightening via white tea extract. More expensive, but beloved for the ritual experience. Lacks the biodegradable microsphere physical exfoliation of SkinMedica's formula.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening. Look for the open jar symbol on packaging indicating the PAO period.
Store at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, heat sources, and humidity. Do not freeze. Recommended storage below 25°C (77°F).
6 fl oz (177ml) squeeze tube with screw-top cap. New packaging design as of 2024 (changed from flip-top). Tube format helps prevent contamination and extends shelf life.
The 6 oz size exceeds TSA carry-on liquid limits (3.4 oz / 100ml). Transfer to a travel-size container for air travel. Not available in a travel size from the brand.
Frequently asked questions
FAQThis cleanser contains salicylic acid (a BHA), which is generally recommended to avoid during pregnancy — especially in higher concentrations or leave-on formats. As a rinse-off cleanser, systemic absorption is minimal, but the official recommendation from most dermatologists and OBGYNs is to err on the side of caution and consult your healthcare provider before using any salicylic acid product during pregnancy or breastfeeding. The AHA fruit acids (glycolic, lactic, citric, malic) in rinse-off cleansers are generally considered to present lower risk during pregnancy, but again, physician guidance is advised. When in doubt, switch to a gentle, non-acid cleanser during pregnancy.
Yes — this cleanser is considered safe for fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis). It does not contain polysorbates, fermented ingredients, problematic fatty acid esters, or high-concentration oils that feed Malassezia yeast. In fact, salicylic acid is often recommended for fungal acne-prone skin because of its antifungal and keratolytic properties. The hydrogenated jojoba oil (wax form) is not metabolized by Malassezia like liquid oils would be. This makes the formula a solid choice for those managing fungal acne alongside regular cleansing needs.
Yes, but use mindfully. Since this is a rinse-off cleanser, the acid exposure time is short, making it generally compatible with a leave-on retinol serum or vitamin C serum applied afterward. However, if you're already using a strong leave-on AHA/BHA toner or serum (like Paula's Choice BHA Exfoliant), combining with this cleanser may lead to over-exfoliation, especially on sensitive skin. Signs of over-exfoliation include persistent redness, flaking, and tightness. If using with retinol: apply retinol only in the PM and always follow with a good moisturizer. Vitamin C serums (applied after cleansing) are fully compatible and can enhance the brightening effects. Start slowly and monitor your skin's response.
SkinMedica labels this product as safe for all skin types, and dermatologist reviews confirm broad compatibility. It performs best on oily, combination, acne-prone, and mature/aging skin types where regular exfoliation provides the greatest benefit. Dry skin can also use it effectively, ideally once daily at night followed by a rich moisturizer. Those with very sensitive skin or fragrance allergies should patch test, as the formula contains lavender oil and citrus peel oil. Skin with active eczema, rosacea flares, or sunburned skin should avoid this product until the skin barrier is restored.
Many users notice softer, smoother skin immediately after the first use. Within the first 1–2 weeks of consistent use, pores appear cleaner, breakouts reduce, and skin tone begins to even out. Significant improvements in texture, radiance, and hyperpigmentation are typically visible by week 4–8 with daily use. For anti-aging benefits (fine line reduction) and more substantial dark spot correction, allow 8–12 weeks of consistent use. Results are cumulative — discontinuing use will slow ongoing skin renewal effects.
This cleanser is always Step 1 — the very first product used in both your morning and evening routine. It is a rinse-off cleanser, so it preps skin (removes makeup, SPF residue, sebum, and dead skin cells) for all subsequent products. After rinsing, follow with: Toner → Serum (Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, etc.) → Eye Cream → Moisturizer → Sunscreen (AM only). Because the acid contact time is brief (rinse-off), you can still layer all your usual actives without concern about interaction in the following steps.
No — this formula is non-comedogenic and rates approximately 1 out of 5 on the comedogenic scale. The hydrogenated jojoba oil in this formula is a wax (not a liquid oil), making it rated 0–1 on comedogenic scales and safe for acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid actively works against comedone formation by clearing pore walls. Glycerin and panthenol are both non-comedogenic humectants. There are no high-comedogenic oils (like coconut oil, wheat germ oil) in this formula. It is widely used by dermatologists and estheticians as a safe option for breakout-prone patients.
Once opened, the product is recommended for use within 12 months (12M PAO). The 6 fl oz (177ml) bottle used twice daily (AM + PM) typically lasts approximately 3–4 months with normal usage. Some users using it only once daily or every other day report getting 5–6 months from a single bottle. Store with the cap securely closed, away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures, to preserve the efficacy of the acid actives and prevent bacterial contamination.
Verdict: The SkinMedica AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser earns its place as one of the most well-rounded exfoliating cleansers in dermatologist-grade skincare. By combining naturally derived fruit AHAs (glycolic, lactic, malic, citric), salicylic acid (BHA), and biodegradable jojoba microspheres in a single wash, it delivers both physical and chemical exfoliation that addresses acne, aging, hyperpigmentation, and texture in one daily step. The addition of bisabolol, panthenol, and licorice root extract makes it far gentler than the ingredient list suggests — most users tolerate it for daily use without irritation. Deductions are for the fragrance (essential oils not suitable for all skin types), the price point for a rinse-off cleanser, and the salicylic acid caveat for pregnant users. For oily, combination, acne-prone, or aging skin seeking an intelligent all-in-one cleansing solution backed by dermatologist development, this is a benchmark product worth the investment.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 1 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 3 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 |
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Cleansing, Foaming
|
|
|
| 4 |
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Sufactant, Foam Boosting
|
|
|
| 0 |
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Abrasive
|
|
|
| 0 |
Acrylates Copolymer
|
|
|
| 0 |
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
Astringent, Refreshing, Skin Conditioning, Tonic
|
|