AHA | PHA Cleanser
AHA | PHA Cleanser
Product Description
Product overview
A gentle, fragrance-free gel cleanser from German drugstore brand ISANA that pairs 0.8% AHA (lactic acid) with 2% PHA (gluconolactone) for a mild chemical exfoliation. It sweeps away dead skin cells and impurities while aloe vera, panthenol and a prebiotic complex keep the skin barrier calm — leaving skin smooth and fresh without that tight, stripped feeling.
Dual Acid Complex
0.8% AHA (lactic acid) plus 2% PHA (gluconolactone) for gentle, gradual resurfacing in a rinse-off format.
Texture & feel
SENSORYDual Acid Complex
0.8% AHA (lactic acid) plus 2% PHA (gluconolactone) for gentle, gradual resurfacing in a rinse-off format.
Soothing Botanicals
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice and panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) calm and hydrate while you cleanse.
Prebiotic Support
Inulin and alpha-glucan oligosaccharide help nurture a balanced, healthy skin microbiome.
Gentle Glucoside Surfactants
Sulfate-free decyl and lauryl glucoside clean without stripping the skin's natural lipid barrier.
Safety & compatibility
SAFENo retinoids, no salicylic acid and no hydroquinone. Low-percentage AHA/PHA in a rinse-off cleanser is generally considered safe — confirm with your doctor.
Free of fatty acids, esters and polysorbates that feed malassezia yeast, so it suits fungal-acne-prone skin.
No added fragrance, essential oils or harsh alcohols — a lower-risk choice for reactive or barrier-compromised skin.
AHAs can increase sun sensitivity. Always finish your morning routine with a broad-spectrum SPF.
As a quick-contact cleanser the acid dose is mild, but go gently if you already use strong leave-on exfoliants or retinoids.
A small number of users report tightness or dryness — patch test for 24 hours if your skin is very dry or reactive.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSGluconolactone (PHA) 2%Proven
A polyhydroxy acid often called the "next generation AHA." It lifts dead cells from the surface to smooth and even the skin, but with a larger molecule that penetrates more slowly and gently than traditional acids.
- Source: PHAs are well tolerated even by sensitive, rosacea-prone or post-procedure skin.
- Bonus: Also acts as a humectant, antioxidant and helps support a healthy barrier.
Lactic Acid (AHA) 0.8%Proven
The second most-researched AHA after glycolic acid. It gently dissolves the bonds holding dull dead cells to reveal fresher, smoother skin, and doubles as a hydrating ingredient.
- Source: Lactic acid is valued for being one of the milder, more hydrating AHAs.
- Note: At 0.8% in a rinse-off cleanser the resurfacing is subtle rather than dramatic.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice High in listPromising
Sitting high on the INCI list, aloe vera is a well-loved moisturizer with anti-inflammatory and soothing components that help offset any potential irritation from the acids.
- Source: Research supports aloe as a good moisturizer that aids wound healing and skin regeneration.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) GoodieProven
A humectant that draws in and holds water, plus it has anti-inflammatory and barrier-protecting abilities — a smart pairing with exfoliating acids.
- Source: Studies show panthenol can reduce irritation from other ingredients and support skin-barrier lipids.
Glycerin GoodieProven
A skin-identical humectant used for decades. It keeps skin lipids healthy, protects against irritation and helps restore the barrier — so the cleanser doesn't leave skin parched.
- Source: Effective and well-tolerated from concentrations as low as 3%.
Inulin + Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide PrebioticPromising
A prebiotic duo that favours friendly skin microbes over undesirable ones, helping to keep the skin's natural flora balanced while you cleanse.
- Source: Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide is claimed to selectively support beneficial skin flora and stimulate the skin's own antimicrobial defenses.
17 ingredients
Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Gluconolactone, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Dehydroxanthan Gum, Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Lactate, Inulin, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Chloride, Lactic Acid, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Sodium Hydroxide.
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse as your first cleansing step (or second step after an oil cleanser for makeup days). Because it already contains mild acids, you may not need an additional exfoliating toner on the same day.
How to use
HOW TO USEDampen Skin
Wet your face with lukewarm water — avoid hot water, which can dry out the skin.
Massage In
Apply a small amount and gently massage over the face in circular motions, avoiding the eye area.
Rinse Thoroughly
Rinse off completely with water and pat dry with a clean towel.
Follow & Protect
Follow with your hydrating and treatment steps. Use SPF daily, as the AHA can increase sun sensitivity.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You want a gentle daily exfoliating cleanser on a tiny budget
- You have oily, combination or acne-prone skin
- You need a fragrance-free, fungal-acne-safe formula
- You prefer vegan, sulfate-free, microplastic-free products
- Dull, uneven texture is your main concern
Consider alternatives if:
- Your skin is very dry and easily over-cleansed
- You want strong, visible peeling results (this is mild)
- You already use multiple strong leave-on acids
- You can't shop at Rossmann or via EU resellers
- You prefer a rich, creamy cleansing texture
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLight gel that cleanses without heaviness; the acids help keep pores and texture in check.
Balances oilier zones while soothing humectants keep drier areas comfortable.
Low comedogenic rating and fungal-acne-safe, with gentle exfoliation to support clearer skin.
Fragrance-free with soothing aloe and panthenol, though acids mean a patch test is wise.
Hydrating extras help, but some dry-skin users find it slightly drying — follow with a richer moisturizer.
Results timeline
8+ WEEKSClean, Fresh Feel
Skin feels thoroughly cleansed and smooth, without the squeaky-tight sensation of harsher washes.
~80% noticedSmoother Texture
With consistent use, skin starts to feel softer and look a little more even as dead cells are buffed away.
~60% noticedBrighter, More Refined
Dullness eases and the complexion looks fresher; makeup and other products may apply more smoothly.
~50% noticedMaintained Clarity
Used as part of a full routine with SPF, skin stays clearer and smoother over the long term.
~45% noticedRatings by platform
5+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Extremely affordable (~€4.29 for 125ml)
- Thoughtful formula: AHA + PHA with soothing & prebiotic extras
- Fragrance-free, vegan and fungal-acne safe
- Cleanses well without a tight, stripped feeling for most
- Doesn't trigger purging for many oily-skin users
Criticized
- Some dry-skin users find it drying
- Very small review base so far — mixed scores
- Exfoliation is mild due to short contact time
- Limited availability outside Germany/EU
- Low-foam gel won't suit those who love a rich lather
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
The dm drugstore counterpart — another German AHA/PHA gel cleanser at a similar rock-bottom price. Very comparable concept; pick whichever store is closer.
Uses salicylic acid (BHA) instead of AHA/PHA, so it's more oil-soluble for clogged pores. Widely available, but pricier per use.
A leave-on AHA toner, not a cleanser — stronger exfoliation but higher irritation risk. Better as a treatment than a like-for-like swap.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight; close the cap tightly after use.
Squeeze tube
Yes — 125 ml is just over the 100 ml carry-on limit, so pack in checked luggage or decant.
Frequently asked questions
FAQIt's generally considered pregnancy-friendly. It contains no retinoids, no salicylic acid and no hydroquinone, and the AHA/PHA are at low percentages in a rinse-off format. Many ingredient databases flag it as pregnancy-safe, but you should always confirm with your doctor or midwife before introducing any active during pregnancy.
Yes. The formula is free of the fatty acids, esters and polysorbates that typically feed malassezia yeast, and multiple ingredient analysis sites list it as fungal-acne safe. It's a reasonable cleanser choice if you're managing fungal acne.
Generally yes. Because it's a quick-contact cleanser, the acids rinse away and rarely conflict with other actives. Still, if you layer strong leave-on exfoliants or retinoids, introduce everything gradually and listen to your skin to avoid over-exfoliation. Vitamin C and other treatments go on after cleansing.
It shines on oily, combination and acne-prone skin that wants gentle daily exfoliation and a fresh, non-greasy finish. Sensitive skin can usually tolerate it thanks to aloe and panthenol, but very dry skin may find it slightly drying and should follow with a richer moisturizer.
Skin feels clean and smooth from the first wash. Smoother texture tends to show within 1–2 weeks of consistent use, with a brighter, more refined complexion around the 4-week mark. As a mild cleanser it offers gradual maintenance rather than a dramatic peel.
Use it as your cleansing step, morning and/or evening. On makeup days, use it as the second step after an oil cleanser or balm. Follow with toner, treatments, moisturizer, and SPF in the morning. Since it already contains mild acids, you often won't need a separate exfoliating toner the same day.
It's very low risk — we rate it 1/5. The ingredients are non-comedogenic (most rate 0–1), it's oil-free and fungal-acne safe, so it's unlikely to clog pores for the vast majority of users.
The recommended Period After Opening (PAO) is around 12 months. Check the small open-jar symbol on the packaging, store it in a cool, dry place, and replace it if the colour, texture or smell changes.
Verdict: The ISANA AHA | PHA Cleanser is a genuinely impressive budget find. For around €4 you get a thoughtful, fragrance-free, vegan and fungal-acne-safe gel that pairs gentle lactic acid and gluconolactone with soothing aloe, panthenol and a prebiotic complex. It's a smart everyday exfoliating cleanser for oily, combination and acne-prone skin that wants smoother texture without harshness. The trade-offs are mild: exfoliation is subtle because contact time is short, very dry skin may find it slightly drying, and the review base is still small with mixed scores. If you can shop at Rossmann or via EU resellers, it's outstanding value.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 2 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 2 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 2 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Butylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscositydecreasing Agent
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Decyl Glucoside
Surfactant, Emulsion Stabilising, Cleansing
|
|
|
| 1 |
Lauryl Glucoside
Surfactant, Cleansing
|
|
|
| 0 |
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
Redness
Irritation
|