Aza 20 Gel
Aza 20 Gel
Product Description
Derma XP Aza 20 Gel delivers prescription-strength 20% azelaic acid in a lightweight, fragrance-free gel. This single-active treatment tackles acne, post-acne marks, rosacea-type redness and uneven tone in one step โ gentle enough for sensitive skin yet potent enough to rival 5% benzoyl peroxide, without the photosensitivity of AHAs.
โจ Texture & Feel
Multi-Target Treatment
One active works on acne, blackheads, post-acne marks, redness and uneven tone at the same time.
Strong Yet Gentle
Studies show 20% azelaic acid rivals 5% benzoyl peroxide for acne with fewer side effects and no bacterial resistance.
No Photosensitivity
Unlike AHAs, azelaic acid won't make your skin more sun-sensitive, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Clears Pores at the Source
Normalizes keratinization and curbs acne-causing bacteria to stop micro-comedones before they form.
๐ก๏ธ Safety & Compatibility
Azelaic acid is one of the few actives dermatologists recommend during pregnancy. Topical 15โ20% has limited systemic absorption per JAAD acne guidelines. Confirm with your doctor first.
Contains no oils, esters or fatty acids that feed malassezia. Azelaic acid actively helps calm fungal acne / folliculitis.
Pairs safely with niacinamide, vitamin C, BHA and most hydrators. A flexible team player in almost any routine.
A brief tingle, warmth or mild flaking is common in the first 1โ2 weeks. Introduce slowly and buffer with moisturizer if needed.
It isn't photosensitizing, but daily SPF protects your results when treating marks, melasma and redness.
At 20% this is a potent, pharmacy-level concentration. Very dry or reactive skin should patch test and ease in gradually.
๐ฌ Ingredient Breakdown
๐งช Azelaic Acid 20% Proven
The hero and only active in this gel. A naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid (found in wheat, rye and barley, lab-made for stability) that is genuinely multi-functional: it is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, gently exfoliating and a tyrosinase inhibitor that fades pigment. That combination lets one ingredient address acne, redness, post-acne marks and uneven tone together.
- Acne: Inhibits acne-causing bacteria and normalizes keratinization to reduce micro-comedo formation.
- Comparative efficacy: Clinical data show 20% azelaic acid can be comparable to 5% benzoyl peroxide for acne, with fewer side effects.
- Pigmentation: Studies in darker skin tones reported significant pigment reduction after 16 weeks of 20% azelaic acid, improving further by 24 weeks.
- Pregnancy: JAAD acne guidelines note no expected fetal harm from topical azelaic acid due to limited systemic absorption.
- Tolerance: Doesn't cause photosensitivity and doesn't promote bacterial resistance, making it suitable for long-term use.
๐ง Hydroxyethylcellulose Base Supporting
A plant-derived (cellulose) gelling agent that gives the product its smooth, water-light gel texture. It carries the azelaic acid evenly across skin without adding oils, silicones or fragrance โ which is exactly why the formula stays fungal-acne safe and minimalist.
- Function: Thickener and texture builder; no actives or irritants of its own.
- Why it matters: Keeps the ingredient list short, lowering the chance of reactions for sensitive, breakout-prone skin.
4 ingredients
Active Ingredient: Azelaic Acid 20% (each gram of gel contains 200 mg azelaic acid). Other (inactive) ingredients: Aqua (Water), Hydroxyethylcellulose, and a preservative system. This is a deliberately minimalist single-active formula; always check the printed carton for the exact batch list.
๐ Where It Fits in Your Routine
Apply to clean, dry skin and wait about a minute before layering the next step. Start once daily (PM) and build up to twice daily as tolerated. Always finish your morning routine with SPF.
๐ How to Use
Patch Test First
Apply a small amount to the inner arm or jawline for 1โ2 days to check tolerance before facial use.
Cleanse & Dry
Wash with a gentle cleanser and pat skin fully dry. Applying to damp skin can increase stinging.
Apply a Thin Layer
Use a pea-sized amount over affected areas. Begin once a day in the evening, working up to twice daily.
Moisturize
Follow with a fragrance-free moisturizer to support the barrier and reduce any dryness or tingling.
SPF Every Morning
Finish daytime routines with broad-spectrum SPF 30+ to protect fading marks and overall results.
๐ค Who Is It For?
โ Perfect for you if:
- You deal with acne, blackheads or clogged, congested pores
- You want to fade post-acne marks, dark spots or melasma
- You have rosacea-type redness or persistent flushing
- You're pregnant or breastfeeding and need a safer active
- You have oily, combination or sensitive breakout-prone skin
โ Consider alternatives if:
- You expect overnight results โ azelaic acid is a slow, steady worker
- You have a very dry or compromised barrier and won't buffer it
- You dislike any tingling or slightly grainy textures
- You're after a rich hydrating cream (this is a treatment, not a moisturizer)
๐ฏ Skin Type Compatibility
Oil-free gel absorbs fast and helps regulate breakouts and shine without heaviness.
Non-comedogenic and fungal-acne safe, targeting both bacterial and clogged-pore acne.
Treats oily, congested zones while staying light enough for the rest of the face.
Azelaic acid is well tolerated and fragrance-free, but 20% is strong โ patch test and ease in.
Effective but can feel drying. Always layer a nourishing moisturizer on top and reduce frequency if tight.
๐ Results Timeline
Adjustment Phase
Mild tingling, warmth or slight flaking as skin adapts. Some users see a brief purge of underlying congestion.
~60% report mild tinglingCalmer, Smoother Skin
Fewer new breakouts, reduced redness and a smoother surface texture become noticeable.
~50% notice clearer skinMarks & Tone Improve
Post-acne marks start to fade and overall tone looks more even as cell turnover steadies.
~65% see fading marksSignificant Pigment Reduction
In line with clinical data, hyperpigmentation and melasma show meaningful improvement with consistent use.
Backed by 16โ24 wk studiesโญ Ratings by Platform
โ๏ธ Pros & Cons
โ Praised
- Prescription-strength 20% azelaic acid at an accessible price
- Tackles acne, marks, redness and tone in a single product
- Fragrance-free, fungal-acne and pregnancy-friendly
- Lightweight gel absorbs quickly without greasiness
- No photosensitivity and no bacterial-resistance risk
โ Criticized
- Can tingle, sting or dry out skin during the first weeks
- Needs 8โ16+ weeks of consistent use for full results
- Small 30 g tube
- Limited independent reviews (niche Indonesian brand)
- Barebones formula offers no added hydration or soothing extras
๐ฐ Budget-Friendly Alternatives (Dupes)
Half the concentration (10%) in a silicone-rich, slightly grippy suspension. Cheapest entry point, but expect gentler, slower results than a 20% gel.
A smoother, more cosmetically elegant 10% emulsion with added hydration. More pleasant texture, but again lower strength than 20%.
10% azelaic acid plus salicylic acid and soothing licorice. A more loaded, gentler formula at a higher price, but lower core strength.
๐ Comparison with Competitors
Derma XP Aza 20 Gel (This Product)
$20.00The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10%
$10.90Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Serum
$22.00Paula's Choice 10% Booster
$39.00๐ฆ Storage & Shelf Life
6 months after opening
Store below 25ยฐC / 77ยฐF in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight; keep the tube tightly closed.
30 g squeeze tube
Yes โ 30 g is well under the 100 ml carry-on limit
โ Frequently Asked Questions
Azelaic acid is widely regarded as one of the safer skincare actives during pregnancy and breastfeeding. The American Academy of Dermatology's acne guidelines note that topical 15โ20% azelaic acid is not expected to cause fetal harm because of its limited systemic absorption, and recent studies even show it outperforming some topical antibiotics for pregnancy acne. That said, always confirm with your OB-GYN or dermatologist before adding any active during pregnancy.
Yes. The formula contains no oils, esters, fatty acids or polysorbates that feed malassezia yeast, and it's verified fungal-acne safe. Azelaic acid itself is also used to help calm fungal acne and folliculitis, so this is a strong choice if you struggle with those small, uniform bumps.
Azelaic acid is famously easy to layer. It works well alongside niacinamide, vitamin C, AHAs and BHAs, and is often paired with retinoids (commonly on alternating nights to limit irritation). Because it doesn't cause photosensitivity, it fits AM or PM. If you're new to actives, introduce one at a time and watch for dryness.
It shines for oily, combination and acne-prone skin, and is excellent for anyone dealing with redness, post-acne marks or melasma. Sensitive skin can use it with care (patch test and ease in), while very dry skin should always layer a moisturizer on top and may prefer a lower-strength option.
Expect a gradual build. Many people notice calmer, smoother skin around week 4, fading of post-acne marks by weeks 8โ12, and significant pigmentation improvement between weeks 16 and 24 โ in line with clinical studies on 20% azelaic acid. Consistency matters more than speed.
After cleansing (and toner, if you use one) and before moisturizer. Apply a thin layer to clean, dry skin, wait about a minute, then follow with moisturizer. In the morning, always finish with broad-spectrum SPF to protect your progress.
No. Azelaic acid is non-comedogenic (rated 0/5) and the gel is oil- and silicone-free, so it won't clog pores. In fact, it helps normalize keratinization and keep pores clear, which is part of why it's effective for acne and blackheads.
As a treatment-grade gel, plan to use it within about 6 months of opening for best potency. Keep the tube tightly closed and store it below 25ยฐC / 77ยฐF, away from heat and direct sunlight. Always check the printed PAO symbol or expiry on your specific carton.
Verdict: Derma XP Aza 20 Gel is a standout for anyone who wants clinical-grade 20% azelaic acid without the prescription markup. It's genuinely versatile โ acne, redness, marks and tone in one step โ and rare among potent actives in being both pregnancy- and fungal-acne-safe, with no photosensitivity. Temper expectations on speed (this is a slow-and-steady performer) and on the barebones, single-active formula, plus the limited review history of a niche Indonesian brand. But for a multi-tasking treatment at this strength and price, it punches well above its weight.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skinโs own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging ยซpromisesยป it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Brightening from 1 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 1 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Azelaic Acid
Masking, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Buffering
|
Brightening
Ache-fighting
Promotes Wound Healing
Redness
Irritation
Texture
Pores
|