Azelaic Acid 10% Serum with Niacinamide
Azelaic Acid 10% Serum with Niacinamide
Product Description
A potent yet gentle K-beauty serum featuring 10% azelaic acid combined with niacinamide, panthenol, and hyaluronic acid to target acne, redness, hyperpigmentation, and rosacea while soothing and hydrating the skin. This minimalist formula delivers clinical-strength results without irritation.
โจ Texture & Feel
Targets Acne & Breakouts
10% azelaic acid kills acne-causing bacteria, unclogs pores, and reduces inflammation to prevent and treat breakouts effectively.
Fades Dark Spots
Inhibits tyrosinase enzyme to reduce melanin production, helping fade post-acne marks, hyperpigmentation, and melasma over time.
Calms Rosacea & Redness
Powerful anti-inflammatory properties soothe redness, irritation, and rosacea symptoms for a calmer, more even complexion.
Hydrates & Strengthens
Niacinamide, panthenol, and hyaluronic acid work together to strengthen the skin barrier and maintain optimal hydration levels.
๐ก๏ธ Safety & Compatibility
Azelaic acid is FDA Category B and considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Only 3-4% is absorbed systemically when applied topically.
Contains Polysorbate 20 which may feed malassezia in some individuals. However, azelaic acid itself has anti-fungal properties that may counteract this.
This lightweight, oil-free formula is non-comedogenic and unlikely to clog pores. Safe for acne-prone skin.
Unlike AHAs and retinoids, azelaic acid does not increase sun sensitivity. However, daily SPF is still recommended.
๐ฌ Ingredient Breakdown
โ๏ธ Azelaic Acid 10% Proven
A naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid with powerful antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and tyrosinase-inhibiting properties. Clinically proven to treat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.
- Studies show: 10-20% azelaic acid is as effective as benzoyl peroxide and tretinoin for acne treatment
- Mechanism: Inhibits thioredoxin reductase in bacteria, blocks abnormal melanocyte activity
- Safety: FDA Category B for pregnancy, minimal systemic absorption (3-4%)
๐งฌ Niacinamide ~2% Proven
Vitamin B3 derivative that strengthens the skin barrier, regulates sebum production, minimizes pores, and brightens skin tone. Works synergistically with azelaic acid.
- Barrier support: Increases ceramide and fatty acid production in skin
- Oil control: Regulates sebum production at 2%+ concentration
- Brightening: Inhibits melanosome transfer to keratinocytes
๐ง Sodium Hyaluronate 0.2% Proven
The salt form of hyaluronic acid with smaller molecular size for better penetration. Holds up to 1000x its weight in water to plump and hydrate skin.
- Hydration: Attracts and binds water molecules to skin surface
- Anti-aging: Plumps fine lines and improves skin elasticity
๐ฟ Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ~2% Proven
Pro-vitamin B5 with excellent moisturizing, soothing, and wound-healing properties. Helps counteract any potential dryness from azelaic acid.
- Wound healing: Accelerates epithelial regeneration
- Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness and irritation
- Moisturizing: Improves skin hydration and barrier function
๐ต Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Promising
Green tea extract rich in EGCG polyphenols with powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Helps protect skin from free radical damage.
- Antioxidant: Neutralizes free radicals and prevents oxidative stress
- Anti-inflammatory: Calms irritated skin and reduces redness
13 ingredients
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Propylene Glycol, Azelaic Acid (10%), Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
๐ Where It Fits in Your Routine
Apply after water-based toners and before heavier creams. Can be used AM and PM. Pair with sunscreen during the day for best results.
๐ How to Use
Cleanse & Prep
Start with clean, dry skin. If using a toner, allow it to absorb fully before applying the serum.
Apply 3-5 Drops
Dispense a few drops onto fingertips and gently pat onto face and neck, avoiding the eye area.
Allow to Absorb
Wait 30-60 seconds for the serum to fully absorb before applying next steps in your routine.
Follow with Moisturizer
Seal in the serum with your favorite moisturizer. In the morning, always finish with SPF 30+.
๐ค Who Is It For?
โ Perfect for you if:
- You have acne, breakouts, or clogged pores
- You struggle with rosacea or facial redness
- You want to fade post-acne marks or hyperpigmentation
- You're pregnant or breastfeeding and need acne treatment
- You have sensitive skin and can't tolerate retinoids
- You want a gentle acid that won't cause photosensitivity
โ Consider alternatives if:
- You have confirmed fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis)
- You're looking for anti-aging benefits primarily
- You need prescription-strength treatment (15-20% azelaic acid)
- You dislike the slightly oily texture of this serum
- You prefer silicone-based formulas with matte finish
๐ฏ Skin Type Compatibility
Lightweight formula helps regulate sebum production without adding greasiness. Niacinamide helps minimize pores.
Contains hyaluronic acid and panthenol for hydration, but may need a richer moisturizer on top for very dry skin.
Balances well across different face zones. Controls oil in T-zone while hydrating drier areas.
Gentler than retinoids and AHAs. Start slowly 2-3x/week. Fragrance-free formula minimizes irritation risk.
Ideal choice. Targets acne-causing bacteria, reduces inflammation, and prevents future breakouts without harsh side effects.
๐ Results Timeline
Initial Adjustment Period
Skin begins adapting to the active ingredient. Some users may experience mild tingling, temporary redness, or initial purging as skin clears out congestion.
30% noticed initial improvementVisible Redness Reduction
Rosacea symptoms and general redness begin to calm noticeably. Active breakouts start healing faster and inflammation decreases.
60% noticed reduced rednessClearer, Brighter Skin
Significant reduction in active acne and new breakouts. Post-acne marks begin to fade. Skin texture feels smoother and more refined.
75% noticed clearer skinOptimal Results
Maximum benefits achieved with consistent use. Hyperpigmentation significantly faded. Skin appears more even-toned and radiant overall.
85% achieved desired resultsโญ Ratings by Platform
โ๏ธ Pros & Cons
โ Praised
- Excellent value for 10% azelaic acid concentration
- Fragrance-free, gentle formula suits sensitive skin
- Effective for acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation
- Safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding
- Clean ingredient list with only 13 ingredients
- No photosensitivity - can be used day and night
- Works well layered with other skincare products
- Visible results for redness within weeks
โ Criticized
- Slightly oily texture may not suit all preferences
- May crystallize/sediment in cold weather (normal)
- Small 30ml bottle depletes quickly with daily use
- Contains Polysorbate 20 (potential fungal acne trigger)
- Initial tingling/burning for some users
- Results require 4-8 weeks of consistent use
- Can pill under certain makeup formulas
๐ฐ Budget-Friendly Alternatives (Dupes)
Same 10% azelaic acid concentration in a silicone-based suspension. Thicker, paste-like texture with matte finish. May pill under makeup. No niacinamide or hydrating ingredients.
Uses potassium azeloyl diglycinate (azelaic acid derivative) instead of pure azelaic acid. More elegant texture with added vitamin C and coffee extract. Better for sensitive skin.
Premium formula with 0.5% salicylic acid, licorice root, and allantoin for enhanced results. Silkier texture, higher price point. Better for combination/oily skin with acne.
๐ Comparison with Competitors
Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 10% (This Product)
$12-15The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10%
$8.90Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid
$45.00Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10%
$20.00๐ฆ Storage & Shelf Life
12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. If product crystallizes in cold weather, soak bottle in warm water for 5-15 minutes.
Dark glass dropper bottle to protect from light degradation
Yes, 30ml is under 100ml TSA limit for carry-on luggage
โ Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, azelaic acid is considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It is classified as FDA Category B, meaning animal studies have shown no fetal risk and it has been used by pregnant women without increased birth defects. Only 3-4% of topically applied azelaic acid is absorbed systemically. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends azelaic acid as a safe option for treating acne and melasma during pregnancy. However, always consult your healthcare provider before starting any new skincare during pregnancy.
This product requires caution for fungal acne sufferers. While azelaic acid itself has anti-fungal properties and can help fight malassezia, the formula contains Polysorbate 20, which is flagged as a potential fungal acne trigger by some ingredient databases. However, at higher concentrations, Polysorbate 20 may actually starve the yeast. Results vary between individuals - some with fungal acne use this product successfully, while others may experience flare-ups. Patch test first and monitor your skin's response.
Azelaic acid is remarkably versatile and can be used with most actives. It pairs well with niacinamide (already included in formula), vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. When using with retinol, AHAs, or BHAs, introduce slowly to avoid over-exfoliation. Many users successfully alternate: use azelaic acid in the morning and retinol at night, or use on different days. If irritation occurs, reduce frequency. Unlike AHAs, azelaic acid does not increase photosensitivity, making it ideal for daytime use.
This serum is excellent for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin types. It's particularly beneficial for those dealing with acne, rosacea, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or melasma. The lightweight formula with niacinamide helps regulate oil production. Dry skin types can use it successfully but should follow with a rich moisturizer. Sensitive skin should start slowly (2-3x per week) as azelaic acid is gentler than retinoids but may still cause initial adjustment.
Results timeline varies by concern: Redness and rosacea often improve within 2-4 weeks. Active acne may start clearing in 4-6 weeks. Hyperpigmentation and post-acne marks require 8-12+ weeks of consistent use. Some users experience initial purging in the first 1-2 weeks as the acid clears congestion. For optimal results, use consistently for at least 12 weeks. This is not an overnight solution - patience and consistency are key to seeing the full benefits of azelaic acid.
Apply after cleansing and toning, before heavier serums and moisturizers. The general rule is to apply from thinnest to thickest consistency. Routine order: Cleanser โ Toner โ Azelaic Acid Serum โ Other serums โ Moisturizer โ Sunscreen (AM). Can be used both morning and night. In the morning, always follow with SPF 30+. Wait 30-60 seconds between steps for proper absorption. Can be mixed with moisturizer if you experience sensitivity.
No, this serum has a comedogenic rating of 1/5, meaning it is very unlikely to clog pores. The formula is oil-free, silicone-free, and designed to be lightweight. Azelaic acid itself is actually comedolytic (helps unclog pores) and antibacterial, making it beneficial for acne-prone skin. User reviews consistently report that the product does not cause breakouts or congestion. However, individual reactions can vary, so patch testing is always recommended.
The product has a PAO (Period After Opening) of 12 months. The 30ml bottle typically lasts 2-3 months with daily use (3-5 drops per application). Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. The dark glass bottle helps protect the formula from light degradation. If white sediment or crystals appear (especially in cold weather), this is normal for azelaic acid - simply soak the bottle in warm water for 5-15 minutes to dissolve.
Verdict: Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 10% Serum delivers exceptional value for those seeking clinical-strength azelaic acid at an affordable price point. The clean, minimalist formula effectively targets acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation while remaining gentle enough for sensitive and pregnant users. While the slightly oily texture and potential fungal acne concerns may not suit everyone, the combination of 10% azelaic acid with niacinamide, panthenol, and botanical extracts makes this a standout choice in the K-beauty serum category. For best results, commit to consistent use for 8-12 weeks and pair with daily sunscreen.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skinโs own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging ยซpromisesยป it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 2 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 2 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 4 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 2 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 |
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
Redness
Irritation
|
|
| 3 |
Propylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Azelaic Acid
Masking, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Buffering
|
Brightening
Ache-fighting
Promotes Wound Healing
Redness
Irritation
Texture
Pores
|
|
| 3 |
Polysorbate 20
Surfactant, Emulsifying
|
|
|
| 1 |
1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
|