Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum
Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum
Product Description
The Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum is a gentle yet highly effective overnight treatment that combines microencapsulated Retinol (0.08%) with plant-based Bakuchiol (1%) to soften fine lines, refine skin texture, and even out skin tone β all without the irritation associated with traditional retinol formulas. Enriched with fermented black rice extract, ceramide NP, and sunflower seed oil, it repairs and nourishes the skin barrier while you sleep.
β¨ Texture & Feel
Microencapsulated Retinol 0.08%
Retinol is enclosed in protective microcapsules that gradually release it into the skin, minimizing irritation while delivering proven anti-aging benefits β ideal for retinol beginners and sensitive skin types.
Patented Bakuchiol 1% (US8859021B2)
A plant-derived retinol alternative from Babchi seeds that activates similar gene pathways to retinol, improving elasticity and smoothing wrinkles without photosensitivity or hormone-related concerns.
Fermented Black Rice Extract (2,000 ppm)
Rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and amino acids, this fermented Oryza Sativa extract helps protect against environmental stressors, brightens the complexion, and supports deep hydration.
Ceramide NP + Sunflower Seed Oil
Ceramide NP reinforces the skin's lipid barrier to prevent moisture loss, while sunflower seed oil (comedogenic index 0) soothes and nourishes β keeping skin soft and resilient overnight.
Bamboo Extract (1,000 ppm) + Panax Ginseng
Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract provides antioxidant and calming properties, while Panax Ginseng Root Extract boosts radiance and supports collagen synthesis for firmer-looking skin.
Adenosine + Cyclodextrin Delivery System
Adenosine is clinically proven to improve wrinkle appearance, while Cyclodextrin acts as a molecular carrier to enhance the delivery and stability of active ingredients deeper into the skin.
π‘οΈ Safety & Compatibility
This product contains Retinol (a Vitamin A derivative). Retinoids β including over-the-counter retinol β are contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding. The brand explicitly states: "Pregnant or breastfeeding women should avoid using this product." Consult your healthcare provider for alternatives.
This serum contains Aspergillus Ferment and fatty acid-containing ingredients (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol) that can potentially feed Malassezia yeast. Those managing fungal acne (pityrosporum folliculitis) should exercise caution and consult a dermatologist.
The formula is rated 1 out of 5 on the comedogenic scale. Key oils like sunflower seed oil have a comedogenic index of 0. The non-comedogenic, lightweight formula is safe for acne-prone skin and will not clog pores.
Contains no artificial fragrance, common allergens (as listed by the EU Cosmetics Regulation), parabens, sulfates, or silicones. Suitable for reactive and fragrance-sensitive skin.
Clinically tested and dermatologist-approved for use on sensitive skin. The microencapsulated retinol system reduces the risk of redness, peeling, and dryness typically associated with retinol products.
Retinol accelerates skin cell turnover, making fresh skin cells more UV-sensitive. Daily broad-spectrum SPF 30+ application in the morning is mandatory when incorporating this serum into your routine. Retinol also degrades in sunlight β PM use only.
Pairs beautifully with hydrating and brightening actives like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and ceramide-based moisturizers. Applying a barrier-supporting essence before and after retinol ("moisture sandwich" technique) is recommended by the brand for extra-sensitive skin.
Avoid using on the same night as AHAs (glycolic, lactic acid) or BHAs (salicylic acid) as this may increase sensitivity and irritation. If you use exfoliating acids, alternate evenings or use different nights.
π¬ Ingredient Breakdown
π¬ Retinol 0.08% Proven
A clinically proven Vitamin A derivative that accelerates skin cell turnover, stimulates collagen synthesis, and visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Microencapsulation technology (via Cyclodextrin) protects retinol from oxidation and releases it gradually for reduced irritation β making this formula uniquely suitable for retinol beginners and sensitive skin.
- Cell Turnover: Retinol upregulates skin renewal, fading dark spots and improving texture with consistent use over 8β12 weeks.
- Collagen Stimulation: Stimulates fibroblasts to produce Type I and III collagen, reducing visible wrinkle depth and improving skin firmness.
- Concentration: At 0.08%, this is an ideal starter concentration β effective for maintenance and prevention without the significant purging or flaking of higher-strength formulas.
π± Bakuchiol ~1% Proven
Patented plant-derived retinol functional analogue (US Patent No. 8859021B2) extracted from the seeds of Psoralea Corylifolia (Babchi plant). Comparative gene expression studies show bakuchiol upregulates the same collagen-boosting and anti-aging gene pathways as retinol, without the photosensitivity, dryness, or irritation. It also demonstrates antibacterial activity against P. acnes and anti-inflammatory properties.
- Gene Expression: Research published in the British Journal of Dermatology found bakuchiol comparable to retinol in significantly improving photoaging (wrinkles, pigmentation, skin firmness).
- Anti-Acne: 1% bakuchiol showed 57% reduction in acne lesions after 6 weeks in clinical studies; it downregulates 5Ξ±-reductase, is antibacterial, and reduces inflammatory lipid peroxidation.
- Synergy: Combined with retinol, bakuchiol enhances efficacy while reducing the risk of retinoid dermatitis.
π Oryza Sativa (Black Rice) Extract 2,000 ppm Proven
Fermented black rice extract is the hero of Haruharu Wonder's signature Black Rice line. Fermentation breaks down rice components into smaller, more bioavailable molecules that penetrate deeper into the skin. It is rich in anthocyanins (powerful antioxidants), vitamins B and E, amino acids, and ferulic acid β delivering antioxidant protection, brightening, and barrier-nourishing benefits.
- Antioxidant Power: Black rice contains one of the highest anthocyanin concentrations of any grain β significantly higher than brown or white rice β helping neutralize free radicals from UV exposure and pollution.
- Brightening: Ferulic acid and other polyphenols in black rice inhibit melanin synthesis pathways, supporting an even, luminous skin tone over time.
- Barrier Support: Amino acids and vitamins reinforce the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin, improving moisture retention.
π‘οΈ Ceramide NP present Proven
Ceramide NP (also known as Ceramide 3) is identical to naturally occurring ceramides found in the skin's stratum corneum. It fills gaps in the lipid bilayer of the skin barrier, dramatically reducing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and protecting against environmental irritants. Particularly valuable in a retinol formula, as ceramides counteract the barrier disruption that retinol can cause during the adjustment period.
- Barrier Repair: Clinical studies demonstrate ceramide NP restores the skin barrier in eczema and compromised skin, reducing TEWL by up to 50%.
- Retinol Synergy: Pairing ceramides with retinol has been shown to significantly reduce retinol-induced dryness and irritation while maintaining retinol efficacy.
π» Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil present Proven
Cold-pressed sunflower seed oil is an exceptional emollient loaded with linoleic acid (50β74%) and oleic acid (14β35%). High-linoleic oils are particularly beneficial for acne-prone and sensitive skin, as linoleic acid deficiency is linked to barrier dysfunction and acne. With a comedogenic index of 0, it moisturizes, soothes, and nourishes without clogging pores.
- Linoleic Acid: Research links topical linoleic acid to reduced microcomedo formation and improved barrier integrity β ideal for acne-prone skin.
- Non-Comedogenic: Comedogenic index of 0 β safe for all skin types including oily and breakout-prone skin.
β‘ Adenosine present Proven
Adenosine is a naturally occurring nucleoside with multiple proven skin benefits. It is an officially recognized anti-wrinkle ingredient by Korean regulatory standards (MFDS), with peer-reviewed research demonstrating its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis, increase skin elasticity, and improve wrinkle depth when used consistently.
- Anti-Wrinkle: Clinical studies demonstrate measurable reduction in wrinkle depth and improvement in skin firmness after 12 weeks of use.
- Anti-Inflammatory: Adenosine also has calming and anti-inflammatory effects, helping to soothe skin irritated by retinol during the adjustment phase.
πΏ Phyllostachys Pubescens (Bamboo) Shoot Bark Extract 1,000 ppm Promising
Bamboo shoot extract is rich in silica, antioxidants, and polyphenols that help maintain skin elasticity, soothe irritation, and provide mild antimicrobial protection. At 1,000 ppm, it contributes to the formula's calming and skin-conditioning properties, complementing the active ingredients.
- Soothing: Bamboo extract contains anti-inflammatory phenolic compounds that reduce redness and calm reactive skin.
- Firming: Silica in bamboo contributes to structural support for collagen and connective tissue.
33 ingredients
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bakuchiol, C14-22 Alcohols, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Oryza Sativa Extract (2,000 ppm), Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract (1,000 ppm), Disodium EDTA, Retinol 0.08%, Aspergillus Ferment, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Ceramide NP, Dipropylene Glycol, Stearyl Alcohol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Glucose, Hydroxyacetophenone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cyclodextrin
π Where It Fits in Your Routine
Apply PM only, after toner and essence. Seal with a ceramide-rich moisturizer. Always apply SPF 30+ the following morning. For sensitive skin, try the "moisture sandwich" β apply your essence before AND after the serum.
π How to Use
Cleanse Thoroughly
Begin with a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser to remove makeup, sunscreen, and daily impurities. Pat skin dry with a clean towel β do not rub.
Apply Toner & Essence (Optional)
Apply your hydrating toner and/or barrier essence first to prep and hydrate the skin. For sensitive skin, applying an essence before and after the serum (moisture sandwich) provides extra buffer against retinol sensitivity.
Dispense a Pea-Sized Amount
Pump out a pea-sized amount (approximately 2β3 pumps) onto clean fingertips. A small amount goes a long way β using more will not accelerate results and may increase the risk of irritation.
Apply Evenly to Face & Neck
Gently massage the serum evenly across the face and neck. Avoid the immediate eye area (inner corners, eyelids) and the lip area. If you wish to treat the eye contour, use a dedicated bakuchiol eye cream instead.
Pat to Absorb
Gently pat β do not rub β to help absorption. Allow 30β60 seconds for the lightweight milky serum to fully absorb before moving to the next step.
Seal with Moisturizer
Follow with a ceramide-rich or barrier-repairing moisturizer to lock in hydration and further reduce any potential retinol sensitivity. This step is especially important for dry and sensitive skin types.
Build Frequency Gradually
Start with 2 nights per week for the first 2β4 weeks. Gradually increase to every other night, then to nightly use as your skin builds tolerance. Reduce frequency if you experience persistent dryness, redness, or peeling.
π€ Who Is It For?
β Perfect for you if:
- You are new to retinol and want a gentle entry point
- You have sensitive, reactive, or easily irritated skin
- You want to target fine lines, dullness, and uneven texture
- You prefer vegan, cruelty-free, and EWG-verified formulas
- You want to prevent premature aging in your 20sβ30s
- You have combination, oily, or acne-prone skin
- You want K-beauty science with minimal ingredient risk
- You appreciate fragrance-free skincare
β Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding (retinol is contraindicated)
- You have confirmed fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis)
- You need a higher retinol concentration (0.3β1%) for mature skin with deep wrinkles
- You are looking for a morning serum (PM-only formula)
- You prefer a larger bottle size for better value per ml
- You are on prescription retinoids β do not double up without dermatologist guidance
π― Skin Type Compatibility
Lightweight milky texture absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy residue. Retinol and bakuchiol both help regulate sebum production and minimize pore appearance over time.
Glycerin, ceramide NP, and sunflower seed oil provide meaningful hydration. Dry skin types should always follow with a richer moisturizer to counteract any retinol-related dryness during the adjustment phase.
The balanced formula addresses oily T-zones and dry cheeks simultaneously. Non-greasy finish makes it suitable for combination types without exacerbating shine or tightness.
Specifically formulated for sensitive skin and retinol beginners. Dermatologist tested, fragrance-free, and enriched with barrier-supporting ceramide NP and adenosine to calm and protect reactive skin.
Low comedogenic rating (1/5), non-pore-clogging sunflower seed oil (comedogenic index 0), and antibacterial bakuchiol make this a solid choice for acne-prone skin. Note: not fungal acne safe due to ferment and fatty acid content.
Effective for prevention and early signs of aging. Those with deeper, established wrinkles may benefit from stepping up to a higher retinol concentration (0.3β1%) for more pronounced results.
π Results Timeline
Immediate Hydration & Texture
Skin feels immediately softer and more hydrated following the first application. The milky texture leaves a comfortable, non-sticky feel. Some users with extremely sensitive skin may notice slight tingling or mild warmth during the initial uses β this is normal and typically subsides.
95% noticed softer skin within first weekTexture Refinement & Adjustment Phase
Skin begins to feel smoother and more refined. Some users may experience a brief adjustment period (mild dryness, slight flaking) as retinol accelerates cell turnover β particularly if usage was increased too quickly. Maintaining a moisturizer and starting slowly (2x/week) minimizes this. Pores may begin to appear slightly smaller.
70% noticed visible texture improvementClinically Measurable Improvements
Haruharu Wonder's clinical data shows measurable results at 14 days: 12.10% wrinkle improvement, 8.6% elasticity improvement, and 40.03% pore reduction. By weeks 4β8, these improvements become more visible β fine lines appear softer, skin tone is more even, and the complexion looks brighter and more radiant.
80% noticed finer pores and even toneTransformation: Firmer, Brighter, Smoother Skin
With consistent nightly use, significant improvements in skin firmness, brightness, fine line reduction, and overall texture become clearly visible. Hyperpigmentation and dark spots continue to fade as retinol and bakuchiol work synergistically on collagen remodeling and melanin regulation. Skin looks rejuvenated and healthier overall.
85% noticed brighter, firmer complexionβ Ratings by Platform
βοΈ Pros & Cons
β Praised
- Exceptional gentleness β no peeling or irritation for most users, including first-time retinol users
- Microencapsulated retinol system for controlled, gradual release
- Patented bakuchiol (1%) enhances results while reducing sensitivity risk
- Clinically tested: 40% pore reduction, 12% wrinkle improvement at 14 days
- Luxurious milky texture that absorbs quickly and feels comfortable overnight
- Completely fragrance-free, paraben-free, and silicone-free
- Vegan, cruelty-free, and EWG Verified β clean formula credentials
- Airless pump packaging preserves retinol potency until the very last drop
- Fermented black rice adds antioxidant and brightening benefits rarely seen in retinol serums
β Criticized
- Small 20 ml bottle β may feel expensive relative to volume (though a little goes a long way)
- Not safe for pregnancy or breastfeeding
- Not suitable for fungal acne (contains ferments and fatty acids)
- Low 0.08% retinol may be insufficient for mature skin with deep wrinkles
- PM-only formula β not a daytime option
- Results are gradual (8β12 weeks for significant visible change)
- Airless pump can occasionally dispense unevenly near the end
- Contains Aspergillus Ferment, which some sensitive users prefer to avoid
π° Budget-Friendly Alternatives (Dupes)
A no-frills retinol serum in a squalane base β fragrance-free and vegan. Higher retinol concentration (0.2%) but no bakuchiol, ceramides, or fermented extracts. More likely to cause irritation for beginners. Excellent value for experienced retinol users wanting a simple, effective formula.
A richer K-beauty retinol serum that also includes bakuchiol, ceramides, niacinamide, and peptides. More complex formula with higher ingredient count, but contains fragrance. Good multi-benefit alternative for those tolerating fragrance who want additional brightening (niacinamide) alongside retinol.
An affordable retinol serum with a higher 0.3% concentration, squalane, and peptides. Fragrance-free and vegan. Lacks the fermented extracts and bakuchiol of the Night Knight, but offers better value per ml. More suitable for those who have already built retinol tolerance and want to step up concentration.
π Comparison with Competitors
Haruharu Wonder Night Knight Retinol Serum (This Product)
~$20β24Beauty of Joseon Revive Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin
~$18β22COSRX The Retinol 0.1 Cream
~$22β26Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
~$62β68π¦ Storage & Shelf Life
12 months after opening. Use within 12 months of first pump for optimal retinol potency and efficacy.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. Refrigerator storage is optional but can extend freshness and enhance the calming, refreshing sensation of application. Avoid storing in humid bathroom environments.
Airless pump bottle (20 ml). The airless design prevents oxidation of the retinol by minimizing air contact with every pump β ensuring consistent potency and effectiveness from the first to the last drop.
Yes β the 20 ml bottle is well under the 100 ml airline carry-on liquid limit, making it an ideal travel companion for your PM routine.
β Frequently Asked Questions
No. The Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum is NOT safe during pregnancy or breastfeeding. It contains Retinol, which is a Vitamin A derivative (retinoid). All topical retinoids β including over-the-counter retinol β are widely advised against during pregnancy due to the potential risk of teratogenicity (harm to the developing fetus). Haruharu Wonder explicitly states on the product packaging: "Pregnant or breastfeeding women should avoid using this product." If you are pregnant or breastfeeding and want retinol-like anti-aging benefits, Bakuchiol-only serums (without retinol) are a safer alternative. Please consult your healthcare provider or OB-GYN before using any active skincare during pregnancy.
No, this serum is NOT considered fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis) safe. The formula contains Aspergillus Ferment (a fermented ingredient) as well as fatty acid-containing ingredients including Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, and Stearyl Alcohol β all of which can potentially feed Malassezia yeast. If you have confirmed fungal acne, this product may worsen the condition. Consider consulting a dermatologist and looking for formulas specifically certified as "fungal acne safe" or "malassezia safe." Haruharu Wonder's Black Rice Hyaluronic Botanical 2GF Wonderful Ampoule is one fungal acneβsafe alternative from the same brand.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid): It is generally advised to avoid using low-pH Vitamin C serums and retinol on the same night, as they can interfere with each other's efficacy and increase irritation. Use Vitamin C in the morning and the Night Knight Serum in the evening. Niacinamide-based Vitamin C formulas are compatible. AHAs and BHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid): Avoid using AHAs/BHAs on the same night as this retinol serum. Over-exfoliation can lead to significant irritation, redness, and barrier damage. Alternate evenings β e.g., AHA/BHA on one night, retinol on the next β or use them on completely different routine days. Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid are fully compatible and actually enhance the tolerability of retinol.
The Night Knight Serum was specifically designed for sensitive skin and retinol beginners, but its lightweight milky texture and balanced formulation make it suitable for all skin types β oily, combination, normal, dry, and sensitive. It is particularly well-suited for oily and combination skin types due to its fast-absorbing, non-greasy finish. Dry skin types will benefit most by following with a rich ceramide moisturizer. Acne-prone skin can use this serum safely (comedogenic rating 1/5), but those with fungal acne should avoid it. It is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Results vary by individual, but here is what clinical and user data shows: Within the first 1β2 weeks, most users notice immediately softer and more hydrated skin. At 14 days, Haruharu Wonder's clinical study reported a 12.10% improvement in wrinkle appearance, 8.6% improvement in skin elasticity, and 40.03% reduction in pore size. By 4β8 weeks of consistent use, visible improvements in skin texture, tone, and fine lines become more apparent. Full transformative results β significantly firmer, brighter, smoother skin β are typically seen after 3β6 months of nightly use. Retinol is a long-game ingredient; consistency is key. Starting with 2x per week and gradually increasing to nightly use will give the best long-term results without irritation.
The Night Knight Retinol Serum is a PM-only product and should be applied as the serum step in your evening routine, after cleansing and toning/essence, and before your moisturizer. The ideal order is: (1) Cleanser β (2) Toner β (3) Essence β (4) Night Knight Retinol Serum β (5) Moisturizer β (6) Optional facial oil. For sensitive skin, the brand recommends the "moisture sandwich" technique: apply your essence or barrier serum before AND after the retinol serum to buffer sensitivity. Never use this product in the morning β retinol degrades in sunlight and makes skin more UV-sensitive. Always apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ the following morning.
No β the Night Knight Retinol Serum has a low comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5, meaning it is considered very unlikely to clog pores. The primary oil in the formula β sunflower seed oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) β has a comedogenic index of 0 and is actually beneficial for acne-prone skin due to its high linoleic acid content. Retinol itself is also known to help prevent clogged pores by normalizing skin cell turnover. The serum is suitable for acne-prone and oily skin types. Note: if you have fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis), this serum should be avoided due to ferment and fatty acid content β not because of pore clogging, but because these ingredients can feed fungal yeast.
The Period After Opening (PAO) for the Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum is 12 months. Use the serum within 12 months of the first pump for optimal retinol potency. In practice, the 20 ml bottle typically lasts 2β3 months with nightly use (pea-sized amount), making it well within the 12-month PAO. The airless pump packaging significantly extends shelf life by preventing oxidation β retinol is highly unstable and degrades rapidly when exposed to air and light. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight; refrigerator storage is optional but can further preserve potency.
Verdict: The Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Night Knight Retinol Serum is one of the most thoughtfully formulated retinol serums on the K-beauty market. Its winning combination of microencapsulated Retinol (0.08%) and patented Bakuchiol (1%) delivers clinically measurable anti-aging results β a 40% pore reduction and 12% wrinkle improvement at just 14 days β while remaining gentle enough for sensitive skin and retinol beginners. The addition of fermented black rice extract, ceramide NP, adenosine, and bamboo extract creates a holistic formula that not only treats but actively supports the skin barrier. Packaged in a potency-preserving airless pump, it's vegan, cruelty-free, fragrance-free, and EWG-verified β making it an excellent choice for anyone who wants the proven benefits of retinol without the irritation. The only notable drawbacks are its small 20 ml size and unsuitability for pregnancy, breastfeeding, or fungal acne. For everything else, this is a benchmark beginner retinol serum that earns its loyal following.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skinβs own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging Β«promisesΒ» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 5 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 5 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Perfuming, Emollient
|
|
|
| 1 |
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 0 |
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
|