Blemish Breakthrough Acne Calming Water Cream
Blemish Breakthrough Acne Calming Water Cream
Product Description
Product overview
The ultimate acne-fighting moisturizer from e.l.f. cosmetics — a dermatologist-developed, lightweight water-based cream powered by 1% Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, and Acetyl Glucosamine to treat and prevent blemishes, control excess oil, and even out skin tone without feeling greasy or heavy.
FDA-Approved Acne Treatment
Contains 1% Salicylic Acid — a clinically proven BHA that exfoliates inside the pore lining, unclogs blackheads, reduces inflammation, and prevents new breakouts from forming.
Texture & feel
SENSORYFDA-Approved Acne Treatment
Contains 1% Salicylic Acid — a clinically proven BHA that exfoliates inside the pore lining, unclogs blackheads, reduces inflammation, and prevents new breakouts from forming.
Multi-Brightening Complex
Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, and Acetyl Glucosamine work synergistically to fade post-acne marks, hyperpigmentation, and dark spots for a more even, luminous skin tone.
Oil-Control Without Stripping
Zinc PCA, Propanediol, and Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate absorb excess sebum and help control shine for up to 98% oil reduction while keeping skin properly moisturized.
Barrier-Supporting Formula
Glycerin, Allantoin, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), and Sunflower Seed Oil reinforce the skin barrier, soothe irritation, and protect against environmental stressors without clogging pores.
Clean Beauty Formulation
Free from phthalates, parabens, nonylphenol ethoxylates, triclosan, triclocarban, hydroquinone, sulfates, and fragrances. Developed in a Fair Trade Certified factory.
Makeup-Ready Finish
The non-greasy, fast-absorbing water-cream formula creates a smooth, matte canvas that layers perfectly underneath makeup — no pilling, no shine, no heavy residue.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEThis product contains 1% Salicylic Acid (BHA). While topical use at low concentrations is considered low-risk, most dermatologists and OB-GYNs recommend avoiding salicylic acid during pregnancy — particularly in leave-on formulas — as a precaution. Consult your healthcare provider before use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding.
This product contains Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil and Caprylic Acid — both fatty acids that may feed Malassezia yeast and potentially trigger fungal acne (pityrosporum folliculitis) in susceptible individuals. If you are prone to fungal acne, use with caution and monitor your skin's response. The Salicylic Acid and Capryloyl Glycine do provide some antifungal benefit.
The overall formula scores very low on the comedogenic scale. Key ingredients like Glycerin (0/5), Niacinamide (0/5), Propanediol (0/5), Allantoin (0/5), and Sunflower Seed Oil (0/5) are non-pore-clogging. Cetearyl Alcohol scores 2/5 but is present at low concentrations. Clinically rated as non-comedogenic.
Contains no added fragrance, essential oils, or known common allergens. Allantoin and Niacinamide actively help calm inflammation. Suitable for fragrance-sensitive skin. Irritation potential is rated low by independent cosmetic analysis platforms.
100% vegan — no animal-derived ingredients. Certified cruelty-free (no animal testing at any stage). Produced in a Fair Trade Certified factory.
Salicylic Acid is not a photosensitizer in the way AHAs are, but daily SPF use is strongly recommended when using any active-ingredient skincare. Apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ each morning for best results and to protect against post-acne mark darkening.
Avoid layering with retinol, benzoyl peroxide, or strong AHA/BHA exfoliants in the same routine step — this can increase irritation and over-exfoliation. Use separate AM/PM routines or alternate days if combining with other actives.
Phthalates-free, paraben-free, nonylphenol ethoxylates-free, triclosan-free, triclocarban-free, hydroquinone-free, sulfate-free, silicone-free.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSSalicylic Acid 1% (Active)Proven
The FDA-approved active ingredient in this formula. A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that is lipid-soluble, meaning it penetrates into oil-filled pores to dissolve the debris, dead skin cells, and sebum that cause blackheads and acne. Also provides anti-inflammatory and antibacterial benefits, helping to reduce redness and speed healing of existing blemishes.
- Mechanism: Oil-soluble exfoliant — penetrates pore lining, dissolves clogs, prevents comedone formation
- Antibacterial: Inhibits P. acnes (Cutibacterium acnes) growth at low pH levels
- Anti-inflammatory: Reduces prostaglandin-driven redness and swelling in acne lesions
- Concentration: 1% — effective for mild-to-moderate acne and daily maintenance; gentler than 2% BHA formulas
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Est. 2–4%Proven
Second on the inactive ingredient list after water, making it one of the highest-concentration actives in this formula. A true multi-tasker: regulates sebum production, visibly minimizes pores, fades hyperpigmentation and post-acne marks, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces inflammation — making it ideal for acne-prone skin dealing with scarring.
- Sebum regulation: Reduces sebaceous gland activity — studies show measurable oil reduction at 2–4% concentration
- Brightening: Inhibits melanosome transfer between melanocytes and keratinocytes, reducing dark spots
- Barrier repair: Boosts ceramide synthesis — strengthens skin's protective lipid barrier
- Anti-inflammatory: Reduces inflammatory cytokines; clinically shown to help with acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis
Glycerin HumectantProven
A skin-identical humectant that draws water from the environment and deeper skin layers to the surface, keeping the stratum corneum hydrated. Comedogenicity 0/5 — completely non-pore-clogging. Prevents the dryness and flaking that can occur with BHA use, making this formula comfortable for daily wear.
- Hydration mechanism: Attracts and binds water molecules, supporting the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF)
- Barrier role: Modulates lamellar body secretion, supporting lipid barrier integrity
- Comedogenicity: 0/5 — safe for all skin types including acne-prone
Tranexamic Acid Brightening ActivePromising
A synthetic amino acid derivative increasingly popular in skincare for its powerful hyperpigmentation and melasma-fighting effects. Works differently from Niacinamide — targets plasmin-mediated melanin production, complementing B3's mechanism for comprehensive dark spot treatment. Particularly effective on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne.
- Mechanism: Inhibits plasminogen/plasmin activity — reduces UV-triggered melanogenesis and PIH
- Clinical use: Originally used medically (IV/oral) for melasma — topical use is well-tolerated and increasingly validated
- Synergy: Works with Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine for a triple-brightening approach targeting multiple pigmentation pathways
Acetyl Glucosamine (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) Brightening + HydrationProven
An amino acid sugar and precursor to hyaluronic acid that provides dual benefits: meaningful skin brightening (especially when combined with Niacinamide) and light hydration. Also functions as a gentle exfoliant by promoting natural cell turnover. Derived from chitin and found naturally in human skin tissue.
- Brightening synergy: Multiple studies confirm that N-Acetyl Glucosamine + Niacinamide combination significantly outperforms either alone for hyperpigmentation reduction
- Hyaluronic acid precursor: Supports skin's natural HA synthesis for deep hydration benefits
- Exfoliation: Gentle chemical exfoliation via tyrosinase inhibition and accelerated cell turnover
Allantoin Soothing AgentProven
A naturally occurring compound (found in comfrey root) that is a gold-standard skin calmer in cosmetic formulations. Reduces redness, irritation, and sensitivity — critically important in a BHA formula where some users may experience initial dryness or irritation. Also promotes healthy cell proliferation and helps repair the skin barrier.
- Soothing: Calms inflammation, itching, and irritation — used in concentrations as low as 0.1% with measurable effect
- Cell renewal: Keratolytic at higher concentrations — at cosmetic use levels it promotes healthy cell turnover without irritation
- Safety: Globally rated among the safest cosmetic ingredients; non-toxic, non-sensitizing
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) + Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Antioxidant + EmollientProven
A synergistic antioxidant-emollient duo. Tocopherol (Vitamin E) neutralizes free radicals, prevents oxidative stress, and supports barrier repair. Sunflower Seed Oil (comedogenicity 0/5) is rich in linoleic acid — the fatty acid found to be deficient in acne-prone skin — making it a skin-compatible emollient that smooths without clogging pores.
- Tocopherol: Fat-soluble antioxidant; protects skin lipids from oxidation; regenerated by Vitamin C (not in this formula)
- Sunflower Oil linoleic content: 50–74% linoleic acid — high linoleic oils are preferred for acne-prone skin vs. oleic-dominant oils
- Barrier recovery: One application of sunflower oil significantly speeds up skin barrier recovery within 1 hour per dermatological research
Capryloyl Glycine Antimicrobial Sebum RegulatorPromising
A glycine amino acid derivative of caprylic acid with unique dual functionality: sebum-normalizing properties that reduce excess oil production, plus antimicrobial activity against P. acnes bacteria. A relatively newer ingredient growing in evidence, contributing to oil control and acne prevention.
- Sebum regulation: Shown in studies to regulate lipase activity in sebaceous glands, reducing excessive sebum output
- Antimicrobial: Active against acne-causing bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes) and some fungal organisms
- Preservative aid: Has mild preservative properties, allowing reduced use of traditional preservatives
28 ingredients
Active: Salicylic Acid 1% (Acne Treatment)
Inactive: Water (Aqua), Niacinamide, Glycerin, Silica, Propanediol, Isododecane, Tranexamic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Tromethamine, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Capryloyl Glycine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA, Caprylic Acid, Sodium Citrate. May contain: Chromium Oxide Greens (CI 77288), Iron Oxides (CI 77492).
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEThis is a moisturizer + acne treatment in one — use it as your final moisturizing step (before SPF in AM). It replaces a separate moisturizer for oily/acne-prone skin. Always follow with SPF 30+ in the morning when using Salicylic Acid daily.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse
Begin with a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser to remove makeup, sunscreen, dirt, and excess oil. Pat skin dry with a clean towel — do not rub.
Optional: Tone & Treat
Apply any alcohol-free toner or targeted serums (Vitamin C in AM, retinol in PM — not combined with this product). Allow to absorb fully before proceeding.
Apply 1–2 Pumps
Dispense 1–2 pumps of the Acne Calming Water Cream onto fingertips. A little goes a long way — start with 1 pump and add more if needed for full coverage.
Gently Smooth Over Face
Using upward and outward motions, smooth the cream evenly over the entire face and neck. Avoid direct contact with eyes and lips. Allow to absorb for 30–60 seconds.
Morning: Follow with SPF
Always apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen as the final step in your morning routine. This is essential when using any daily exfoliating active like Salicylic Acid to protect skin and prevent PIH from darkening.
Use Morning & Evening
For best results, use twice daily — morning and evening — consistently for at least 4–8 weeks to see meaningful improvement in acne, oil control, and skin tone evenness.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have oily, acne-prone, or combination skin
- You deal with blackheads, whiteheads, or hormonal breakouts
- You have post-acne marks, hyperpigmentation, or uneven skin tone
- You want an all-in-one moisturizer + acne treatment
- You prefer lightweight, non-greasy textures that work under makeup
- You're looking for affordable drugstore skincare with clinical-grade actives
- You have sensitive, fragrance-reactive skin and want a clean formula
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding (consult your doctor first)
- You have confirmed fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis)
- You have very dry or dehydrated skin that needs a richer, more occlusive moisturizer
- You are already using a high-concentration BHA exfoliant and don't need more Salicylic Acid
- You have severe cystic acne (requires prescription treatment like retinoids or antibiotics)
- You have eczema or rosacea — Salicylic Acid may exacerbate these conditions
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESThis formula was designed for oily skin. The water-cream texture absorbs instantly without adding shine, Salicylic Acid unclogs oil-filled pores, and Capryloyl Glycine + Niacinamide help regulate sebum production long-term. Claims up to 98% oil control.
FDA-approved Salicylic Acid 1% treats and prevents new blemishes. Non-comedogenic rating 1/5. The brightening complex also addresses post-acne marks. One of the best value acne moisturizers at the drugstore price point.
Works well across different face zones. Controls oil in the T-zone while hydrating drier areas with Glycerin and emollients. The lightweight texture doesn't overhydrate oily zones or under-hydrate drier patches.
Fragrance-free with Allantoin and Niacinamide to soothe irritation. However, 1% Salicylic Acid may cause initial sensitivity in very reactive skin. Patch test recommended. Start with once-daily use and build up frequency gradually.
Works well for normal skin that experiences occasional breakouts. The brightening actives (Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid) offer preventive anti-aging and skin tone benefits even without oily skin concerns.
May not provide sufficient hydration for dry or very dry skin types. The BHA can initially increase dryness. If you have dry acne-prone skin, layer a separate hydrating serum (like Hyaluronic Acid) underneath and consider a richer moisturizer as an optional second step in very dry conditions.
Results timeline
MONTH 3+Immediate Comfort & Oil Control
Skin feels clean, matte, and lightweight immediately after application. Most users notice reduced surface shine within the first application. Some may experience very mild initial tingling from Salicylic Acid — this is normal and fades with continued use.
90% noticed improved oil control immediatelyReduced Inflammation & Fewer New Breakouts
Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid begin reducing active inflammation. Existing blemishes may appear less red and heal faster. Some users report an initial "purge" in week 1 — this is the BHA accelerating cell turnover and is temporary.
75% saw fewer new blemishes within 2 weeksClearer Pores & Smoother Texture
Pores appear visibly smaller and less clogged. Skin texture becomes smoother as the BHA continues exfoliating inside the pore lining. Post-acne marks begin to fade slightly. Overall skin tone starts to look more even.
70% reported visibly clearer pores at 4 weeksSignificant Brightening & Tone Improvement
The Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid + Acetyl Glucosamine brightening complex begins to show meaningful results in fading post-acne hyperpigmentation. Skin tone appears more even and luminous. Breakout frequency is significantly reduced with consistent use.
65% reported visible reduction in dark spots at 8 weeksLong-Term Clarity & Maintenance
With continued use, skin reaches a new baseline of clarity. Oil production is regulated, pore visibility is minimized, and post-acne marks are significantly faded. Users who incorporate SPF daily see the best brightening outcomes. Skin is well-adapted to daily BHA use.
80% would repurchase after 3 months of useRatings by platform
7K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Extremely affordable for the active ingredient count (~$12–14 USD)
- True all-in-one: moisturizer + BHA acne treatment + brightening
- Fragrance-free, vegan, cruelty-free, dermatologist-developed
- Fast-absorbing, non-greasy — works perfectly under makeup
- Triple brightening complex: Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid + Acetyl Glucosamine
- Non-comedogenic (1/5) — won't clog pores
- Pump packaging is hygienic and controlled
- Claims up to 98% oil control — backed by user reports
- Works well for sensitive skin despite containing BHA
- Fair Trade Certified manufacturing
Criticized
- May not be rich enough for dry or very dry skin types as a standalone moisturizer
- Contains sunflower seed oil — concern for fungal acne-prone users
- Not safe during pregnancy without physician guidance (contains BHA)
- Possible initial purging period in first 1–2 weeks
- Niacinamide concentration could be higher (4–6%) for maximum sebum control
- Results require consistent 4–8 week use — not an overnight fix
- May cause dryness if over-applied or layered with other exfoliants
- The 50 mL size can run out quickly for those who use it twice daily on the full face
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
CeraVe's SA Smoothing Cream contains 2% Salicylic Acid plus Ceramides and Niacinamide — very similar concept but in a richer cream format with ceramide barrier repair. Better for dry-acne-prone skin but heavier texture. Less brightening actives than the e.l.f. formula.
Combining these two The Ordinary serums replicates some of the same actives at potentially higher concentrations, but you'd need to add a separate moisturizer. Two-product approach is less convenient than e.l.f.'s all-in-one formula. No brightening actives like Tranexamic Acid.
Classic drugstore acne moisturizer with 0.5% Salicylic Acid. More accessible but lower BHA concentration and significantly fewer brightening or skin-tone correcting actives. No Tranexamic Acid or Acetyl Glucosamine. Does not address post-acne marks as effectively. Better for mild acne only.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening. Look for the open-jar symbol on the packaging indicating the PAO. Discard if the texture, color, or smell changes noticeably before this period.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Do not store in humid environments (e.g., directly in a steamy bathroom). Room temperature storage is ideal (15–25°C / 59–77°F).
Pump-top bottle (50 mL full size). The pump is hygienic and prevents contamination, minimizes oxidation, and allows precise dosing of 1–2 pumps per use. Also available in a mini size (15 g) for travel or trial.
The full-size 50 mL (1.69 fl oz) is under the TSA 100 mL / 3.4 fl oz liquid limit and is carry-on safe for air travel. The mini size (15 g) is also available as part of the Blemish Breakthrough travel kit.
Frequently asked questions
FAQThis product contains 1% Salicylic Acid (a BHA), which is listed as an active ingredient. Most healthcare providers and dermatologists recommend avoiding leave-on salicylic acid products during pregnancy as a precaution, particularly in the first trimester. While the topical absorption of 1% Salicylic Acid in a small amount applied to the face is considered low-risk, it is not officially classified as pregnancy-safe. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, please consult your OB-GYN or dermatologist before use. Consider a Niacinamide-only moisturizer as an alternative during this period.
This product is not fully fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. It contains Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil and Caprylic Acid — both fatty acids that can potentially feed Malassezia yeast and trigger or worsen fungal acne in susceptible individuals. However, the formula also contains Salicylic Acid (BHA) and Capryloyl Glycine, which have antifungal properties that may partially offset this concern. If you are prone to fungal acne, use with caution and monitor your skin. If you experience small, uniform, itchy bumps after use, discontinue and consult a dermatologist. A fully fungal acne-safe alternative would avoid all fatty acids and esters.
You can use this product alongside Vitamin C serums (in the AM), as long as you apply Vitamin C first and allow it to absorb before applying this cream as your moisturizing step. For retinol: avoid using both in the same routine step as this can over-sensitize skin — use retinol in your PM routine (on alternate nights if needed) and this cream in AM. Do not layer additional AHA/BHA exfoliants (like glycolic acid toner or Paula's Choice 2% BHA) on top of this product, as combining multiple exfoliating actives increases irritation risk. Keep exfoliation to a manageable level for your skin's tolerance.
This product is best suited for oily, acne-prone, and combination skin types. The water-cream texture is purposely lightweight and non-greasy, making it an ideal all-in-one moisturizer + acne treatment for those who struggle with excess shine and breakouts. Normal skin can also benefit, especially if occasional blemishes and uneven skin tone are concerns. Dry skin types may find the hydration insufficient on its own and may need to layer a hydrating serum (like Hyaluronic Acid) underneath for adequate moisture.
Oil control and improved skin feel are often noticeable within the first application. Reduced inflammation and fewer new breakouts are typically seen within 1–2 weeks of consistent use. Clearer pores and smoother texture generally appear by weeks 3–4. Meaningful brightening of post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation takes 6–8 weeks minimum, as brightening actives like Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid work gradually on existing pigmentation. For best results, use twice daily (AM and PM) consistently for at least 8 weeks, and always pair with daily SPF to prevent new pigmentation from forming.
This product functions as both your acne treatment and your moisturizer, so it goes on as the final moisturizing step in your routine — after cleanser, toner, and any serums. In the morning routine: Cleanser → Toner (optional) → Serum (optional, e.g. Vitamin C) → This Cream → SPF. In the evening routine: Cleanser → Toner → Serum (optional, e.g. hyaluronic acid) → This Cream. Always apply SPF 30+ over the top in the morning — this is non-negotiable when using daily Salicylic Acid.
No — this product is clinically rated as non-comedogenic and scores 1/5 on the comedogenic scale. The formula is specifically designed for acne-prone skin with this concern in mind. Key hydrating ingredients like Glycerin (0/5), Niacinamide (0/5), Propanediol (0/5), and Allantoin (0/5) have zero comedogenic potential. Sunflower Seed Oil is rated 0/5 as well. The Salicylic Acid actively works to unclog pores. Cetearyl Alcohol is present at low concentrations and is unlikely to cause breakouts for most users despite its 2/5 theoretical comedogenic rating.
The product has a Period After Opening (PAO) of 12 months — use it within one year of first opening for optimal efficacy and safety. Store at room temperature in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. The pump packaging is hygienic and helps extend shelf life by minimizing air exposure and contamination. If you use 1–2 pumps twice daily on your full face, the 50 mL bottle typically lasts approximately 2–3 months, depending on the amount dispensed per use.
Verdict: The e.l.f. cosmetics Blemish Breakthrough Acne Calming Water Cream is one of the best value acne moisturizers currently available at the drugstore price point. For under $14, it delivers an FDA-approved Salicylic Acid treatment, a clinically validated triple brightening complex (Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid + Acetyl Glucosamine), and a genuinely lightweight, makeup-friendly texture — all in a fragrance-free, vegan, dermatologist-developed formula. The fact that it replaces both your moisturizer and acne treatment in one step makes it particularly compelling for oily and acne-prone skin types. The main caveats are that it is not ideal for dry skin, carries a fungal acne caution due to Sunflower Seed Oil, and cannot be used during pregnancy without medical guidance. For everyone else dealing with oily, blemish-prone skin and post-acne marks, this is a standout product that punches well above its price tag.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 2 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 4 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 4 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 2 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 |
Silica
Absorbent, Abrasive
|
|
|
| 1 |
Isododecane
Solvent, Perfuming, Emollient, Fragrance
|
|
|
| 0 |
Tranexamic Acid
Astringent, Skin Conditioning
|
Irritation
Dark Spots
|
|
| 1 |
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying
|
|
|
| 1 |
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antimicrobial
|
|