Blemish Serum
Blemish Serum
Product Description
Product overview
A deeply hydrating gel serum powered by Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate and 10 types of Hyaluronic Acid to even out skin texture, reduce fine lines, and deliver a dewy, luminous glow. Formulated with Bakuchiol as a gentle retinol alternative and Niacinamide for brightening benefits.
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Sake-derived ingredient that brightens, refines texture, and boosts hydration for a luminous complexion.
Texture & feel
SENSORYGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Sake-derived ingredient that brightens, refines texture, and boosts hydration for a luminous complexion.
10 Types of Hyaluronic Acid
Multi-molecular HA complex provides deep and surface-level hydration for plump, bouncy skin.
Bakuchiol (Retinol Alternative)
Plant-based ingredient that smooths fine lines and improves texture without irritation.
Niacinamide + Adenosine
Brightens skin tone, minimizes pores, and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEGenerally considered safe as it contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, or hydroquinone. Bakuchiol is a pregnancy-friendly retinol alternative. However, consult your doctor before use as limited studies exist on fermented ingredients during pregnancy.
NOT recommended for fungal acne. Contains Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate and multiple fermented extracts (Lactobacillus, Saccharomyces) which can potentially worsen malassezia folliculitis.
Low comedogenic rating (1/5). Free from heavy oils and pore-clogging ingredients. Suitable for acne-prone skin that is not fungal-related.
Dermatologist tested, fragrance-free, and alcohol-free. Contains soothing Allantoin and Panthenol. Patch test recommended for very reactive skin.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate 1st IngredientProven
A nutrient-rich yeast ferment derived from sake production. Contains amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and peptides that improve skin texture, brightness, and hydration. SK-II's famous Pitera is a form of Galactomyces.
- Study: Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology found GFF reduced pore size by 9%, decreased blackheads, and improved skin brightness
- Mechanism: Increases natural hyaluronic acid production and protects against oxidative stress
Niacinamide ~2.3-2.8%Proven
Multi-functional form of Vitamin B3 that brightens skin, minimizes pores, regulates sebum production, and strengthens the skin barrier. Works synergistically with other ingredients.
- Clinical Data: 2% concentration effective for skin barrier support and evening skin tone
- Benefits: Reduces hyperpigmentation, improves texture, anti-inflammatory properties
Bakuchiol ~1.6-2%Promising
Plant-derived retinol alternative from the Psoralea corylifolia plant. Provides similar anti-aging benefits to retinol without irritation, making it suitable for sensitive skin and pregnancy.
- Study: British Journal of Dermatology found 0.5% Bakuchiol comparable to 0.5% retinol for treating signs of aging
- Benefits: Stimulates collagen, reduces fine lines, improves skin firmness without photosensitivity
10 Types of Hyaluronic Acid Multiple FormsProven
Comprehensive HA complex including Hydrolyzed HA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, and more for multi-level hydration.
- Benefit: Different molecular weights penetrate various skin layers for deep and surface hydration
- Result: Plumper, more hydrated skin with reduced appearance of fine lines
Adenosine ~1.3-1.5%Proven
Natural compound involved in cellular energy that helps smooth fine lines and wrinkles. Approved anti-wrinkle ingredient in Korea.
- Clinical Data: Shown to reduce appearance of wrinkles when used at effective concentrations
- Mechanism: Promotes collagen synthesis and supports skin cell regeneration
42 ingredients
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Isopentyldiol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bakuchiol, Allantoin, Panthenol, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Acerola Cherry Ferment, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Saccharomyces/Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Imperata Cylindrica Root Ferment Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Carbomer, PVM/MA Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply after toner and before heavier serums or moisturizers. Use AM & PM for best results. Always follow with sunscreen in the morning.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Tone
Start with a clean face. Apply your toner and let it absorb fully before proceeding.
Dispense 1-2 Pumps
Press the pump to dispense an appropriate amount of serum into your palm. A little goes a long way.
Apply & Pat Gently
Spread evenly across face, avoiding eye area. Gently pat with fingertips to encourage absorption.
Follow with Moisturizer
Lock in hydration with your favorite moisturizer. Apply sunscreen as the final step in your AM routine.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You want to improve skin texture and radiance
- Looking for a gentle anti-aging serum
- You have dull, dehydrated, or uneven skin
- Want to minimize the appearance of pores
- Looking for a retinol alternative (Bakuchiol)
- Appreciate a large, value-sized product (150ml)
- Have combination to oily skin types
Consider alternatives if:
- You have fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis)
- Sensitive to fermented ingredients
- Looking for strong exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA)
- Need intense occlusive moisturization
- Prefer products with no fermented ingredients
- Want a travel-size product
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight gel formula absorbs quickly without adding shine. Niacinamide helps regulate sebum production.
10 types of HA provide excellent hydration, but may need a heavier moisturizer on top for very dry skin.
Balances well across different face zones. Hydrating without being heavy or greasy.
Fragrance-free and dermatologist tested. Contains soothing Allantoin and Panthenol. Patch test recommended.
Non-comedogenic formula (1/5 rating). Great for regular acne but NOT suitable for fungal acne.
Results timeline
WEEK 12+Immediate Hydration Boost
Skin feels softer, more hydrated, and plumper thanks to the multi-molecular hyaluronic acid complex. Initial glow becomes visible.
85% noticed improved hydrationTexture Improvement
Galactomyces begins refining skin texture. Pores may appear smaller and skin surface becomes smoother.
70% noticed smoother textureVisible Brightening
Niacinamide and fermented extracts work together to even out skin tone. Fine lines appear plumped and softened.
65% noticed brighter skin toneLong-Term Anti-Aging Benefits
Bakuchiol and Adenosine provide cumulative anti-aging effects. Improved firmness and reduced appearance of fine lines.
60% noticed fine line reductionRatings by platform
200+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Generous 150ml size offers excellent value
- Lightweight, non-sticky gel texture
- 10 types of hyaluronic acid for deep hydration
- Contains Bakuchiol as gentle retinol alternative
- Fragrance-free and suitable for sensitive skin
- Noticeable improvement in skin texture and glow
- Can be used around the eye area
- Layers well with other products
Criticized
- Not suitable for fungal acne (contains ferments)
- Pump dispenser could be smoother
- No exfoliating acids (AHAs/BHAs)
- Results for pigmentation take 6-8+ weeks
- Large bottle not travel-friendly
- May not be enough for very dry skin alone
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Contains 95% Galactomyces + Niacinamide + Adenosine. More watery consistency, smaller size (100ml), but more concentrated GFF. Also not fungal acne safe.
Much higher Niacinamide concentration (10%). No Galactomyces or Bakuchiol. Smaller size (30ml) but extremely affordable. Good for sebum control.
75% Galactomyces + 3% Vitamin C + Niacinamide. Adds brightening Vitamin C but smaller size (30ml). More targeted for hyperpigmentation.
The original Pitera essence with 90% Galactomyces. Much simpler formula, no Niacinamide or Bakuchiol. Significantly more expensive but cult classic status.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Some By Mi Galactomyces Vit C
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. No refrigeration required.
Plastic pump bottle - hygienic dispensing, prevents contamination
No - 150ml exceeds 100ml carry-on limit. Decant into smaller container for travel.
Frequently asked questions
FAQThis serum is generally considered safe during pregnancy as it contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, or hydroquinone. The Bakuchiol it contains is often recommended as a pregnancy-safe retinol alternative. However, because it contains fermented ingredients (Galactomyces), limited studies exist on their safety during pregnancy. We recommend consulting with your healthcare provider before use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
No, this serum is NOT suitable for fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis). It contains Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate as its first ingredient, plus multiple other fermented extracts (Lactobacillus, Saccharomyces). These fermented ingredients have been linked to potentially worsening fungal acne by activating Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptors. If you have fungal acne, please choose a ferment-free alternative.
Yes, this serum can be layered with most other active ingredients. Since it already contains Bakuchiol (a retinol alternative), you may not need additional retinol. For Vitamin C, you can use them together or alternate AM/PM. For AHAs/BHAs, apply them before this serum after they've fully absorbed. If you experience any irritation, reduce frequency or alternate days.
This serum works best for oily, combination, and normal skin types. Its lightweight gel texture absorbs quickly without adding greasiness. Dry skin types can also use it but may need a heavier moisturizer on top. It's excellent for those with dull skin, uneven texture, enlarged pores, or early signs of aging. However, avoid if you have fungal acne.
Hydration improvement is noticeable within the first 1-2 weeks. Texture refinement and smoother skin typically appear around weeks 3-4. Visible brightening and pore minimization usually take 6-8 weeks of consistent use. Anti-aging benefits from Bakuchiol and Adenosine require 12+ weeks of continued use. Consistency is key for best results.
Apply after cleansing and toning, before heavier serums and moisturizers. The order should be: Cleanser → Toner → This Serum → Other treatments (if any) → Moisturizer → Sunscreen (AM). It can be used both morning and night. Allow it to absorb fully before applying the next product.
No, this serum has a low comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5, meaning it's unlikely to clog pores. It's free from heavy oils, silicones, and other pore-clogging ingredients. The Niacinamide actually helps regulate sebum production and minimize pore appearance. It's suitable for acne-prone skin, but NOT for fungal acne due to the fermented ingredients.
The serum has a PAO (Period After Opening) of 12 months. With the generous 150ml size and using 1-2 pumps twice daily, a bottle typically lasts 3-4 months. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. The pump packaging helps prevent contamination and maintains product freshness.
Verdict: Papa Recipe Blemish Serum delivers excellent value with its generous 150ml size and impressive ingredient list featuring Galactomyces, 10 types of Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, and Bakuchiol. It's particularly well-suited for those seeking a multi-tasking hydrating serum that addresses texture, dullness, and early signs of aging. The lightweight gel texture and quick absorption make it ideal for oily and combination skin types. However, those with fungal acne should avoid this product due to its fermented ingredients. Overall, it's a solid K-beauty option that competes favorably with more expensive alternatives like SK-II while offering additional active ingredients.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 6 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 5 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 9 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 |
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Humectant
|
Anti-Aging
Hydrating
Redness
Irritation
|
|
| 1 |
Butylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscositydecreasing Agent
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 0 |
Isopentyldiol
Humectant, Solvent
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Bakuchiol
Antimicrobial, Cosmetic Biocide, Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
|
Brightening
Anti-Aging
Redness
Irritation
Dark Spots
|