Boréade CL Cleansing Cream
Boréade CL Cleansing Cream
Product Description
Laboratoire ACM Boréade CL Cleansing Cream is a high-tolerance French dermo-cosmetic face wash for combination, oily and acne-prone skin. Its soap-free creamy formula gently cleanses, removes excess sebum and helps prevent blemishes via the brand's S.M.A. complex (sebum-regulating, mattifying, astringent) — all without stripping or tightening, making it suitable for skin weakened by acne treatments like retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or isotretinoin.
✨ Texture & Feel
Soap-Free, Non-Stripping
Gentle washing bases lift dirt, oil and impurities without disrupting the skin barrier or leaving a tight feel.
Triple S.M.A. Complex
Sebum-regulating, mattifying and astringent actions help reduce shine and limit the appearance of blemishes.
Treatment Companion
Clinically designed to soothe skin weakened by retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, isotretinoin and oral acne therapy.
96% Natural Origin
Over 98% biodegradable formula with quinoa peptides and soybean relipidants to respect and soothe the skin.
🛡️ Safety & Compatibility
Contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone or chemical UV filters. Citric acid appears only as a low-level pH adjuster. Always confirm with your doctor.
Contains fatty acids and esters (soybean oil, glyceryl caprylate, capryloyl glycine, cetearyl alcohol) that can feed Malassezia yeast.
As a rinse-off cleanser it's compatible with retinol, vitamin C, AHA, BHA and azelaic acid — it simply preps the skin beforehand.
Includes a light parfum. Very fragrance-sensitive or highly reactive skin should patch test before regular use.
Free from parabens, silicones, sulfates and harsh alcohols; over 98% biodegradable per the brand's OECD testing.
The ultra-mild surfactant base transforms into a creamy foam that rinses cleanly without irritation around the eye area.
🔬 Ingredient Breakdown
🥑 Butyl Avocadate (5α-Avocuta) Active Proven
An avocado-derived sebum-regulating active and the cornerstone of the S.M.A. complex. It targets excess oil production at the source to reduce shine and congestion.
- Source: Derived from avocado oil and used in dermo-cosmetics as a 5-alpha reductase inhibitor to help control sebum.
- Role: Drives the "sebum-regulating" arm of ACM's S.M.A. triple-action complex.
🧪 Capryloyl Glycine Active Promising
An amino-acid-derived ingredient that combines mild surfactant action with sebum regulation, helping purify pores while keeping the cleanse gentle.
- Source: Made by combining glycine with caprylic acid; manufacturers report sebum-balancing and skin-softening properties.
- Role: The "purifying" element of the S.M.A. complex.
🛡️ Zinc Gluconate Active Proven
A well-studied mineral for blemish-prone skin with antibacterial and wound-healing properties, particularly effective against inflammatory acne.
- Source: The zinc salt of gluconic acid (a gentle PHA cousin of AHAs).
- Role: Helps cleanse pores and calm inflammatory breakouts.
💧 Glycerin High Proven
The gold-standard humectant. It draws water into the skin and reinforces the barrier so the cleanser hydrates rather than dehydrates.
- Source: A 2016 study found glycerin to be a more effective humectant than hyaluronic acid and AHAs.
- Role: Offsets the drying potential typical of acne cleansers.
🌼 Bisabolol Soothing Proven
A chamomile-derived soother that blocks inflammatory signals, calms redness and offers antioxidant and antimicrobial support.
- Source: Studies show bisabolol reduces irritation and may help with uneven tone and dark spots.
- Role: Comforts skin sensitized by acne treatments.
🥥 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Surfactant Proven
An ultra-mild coconut-derived cleanser that produces a soft foam without drying the skin or compromising the barrier.
- Source: Praised in cosmetic dermatology literature for setting a benchmark in cleansing-base mildness.
- Role: Primary gentle foaming agent.
🫧 Coco-Glucoside Surfactant Proven
A sugar-and-coconut-based non-ionic surfactant considered gentle and non-comedogenic, lifting away oil and impurities softly.
- Source: Made from glucose and coconut oil; widely used in sensitive-skin formulas.
- Role: Supports the soap-free cleansing system.
🌾 Hydrolyzed Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Peptides Promising
Quinoa-derived peptides that the brand uses to respect the skin barrier and soothe, helping repair the comfort of stressed skin.
- Source: Protein fraction from quinoa seed, valued for skin-conditioning peptides.
- Role: Barrier-respecting and soothing support.
🧬 Phospholipids Barrier Proven
Lipids naturally found in skin-cell membranes that act as humectant and emollient, replenishing the barrier and adding antioxidant support.
- Source: Studies show phospholipids display antioxidant activity and help with signs of aging.
- Role: Non-occlusive barrier replenishment.
🫘 Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil Emollient Proven
A relipidating oil rich in vitamin E and fatty acids that keeps skin soft and helps offset the cleanse, with soothing anti-inflammatory benefits.
- Source: Studies suggest soy may help fade UVB-induced hyperpigmentation.
- Role: Relipidant that prevents over-drying.
🍋 Citric Acid Low (pH) Promising
An AHA included here in a small amount mainly to fine-tune pH so the cleanser stays compatible with the skin's slightly acidic mantle.
- Source: Meaningful exfoliation needs ~20% concentration, far above the buffering levels used in cleansers.
- Role: pH adjuster, not an active exfoliant here.
🧴 Vitamin E (Tocopherol) Antioxidant Proven
A fat-soluble antioxidant that protects against free radicals and supports the skin's lipid barrier during cleansing.
- Source: Helps reduce UVB damage and stabilizes other antioxidants such as vitamin C.
- Role: Barrier and antioxidant protection.
🌽 Zea Mays (Corn) Starch Texture Promising
A corn-derived powder used to thicken and add a soft, slightly mattifying skin-feel without whitening or greasiness.
- Source: Plant absorbent that can replace talc and reduce tackiness.
- Role: Texture refiner with light oil-absorbing benefit.
🫧 Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate Surfactant Promising
A mild sulfosuccinate surfactant (not an SLS sulfate) that boosts gentle foam and cleansing while staying low-irritation.
- Source: Common in baby and sensitive-skin cleansers for its mildness.
- Role: Secondary foaming and cleansing agent.
29 ingredients
1,2-Hexanediol, Water (Aqua), Bisabolol, Butyl Avocadate, Capryloyl Glycine, Cetearyl Alcohol, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Citric Acid, Coco-Glucoside, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, Glycolipids, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydrolyzed Chenopodium Quinoa Seed, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Maltodextrin, Parfum (Fragrance), Phospholipids, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Tocopherol, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Zinc Gluconate.
🔄 Where It Fits in Your Routine
As a cleanser, this is your first step morning and evening. Always follow with a moisturizer and use daily SPF in the AM, especially if you're using acne treatments alongside it.
📝 How to Use
Dampen the Skin
Wet your face with tepid or cool water, morning and/or evening.
Emulsify One to Two Doses
Massage one to two pumps into the skin; it transforms into a soft, creamy foam.
Rinse Thoroughly
Rinse with clean, lukewarm water. It rinses cleanly and doesn't sting the eyes.
Pat Dry & Follow Up
Gently pat dry with a towel, then apply your treatment and moisturizer. Can be used daily over 2–6 months.
👤 Who Is It For?
✅ Perfect for you if:
- You have oily, combination or acne-prone skin and want to control shine.
- Your skin is dried out or sensitized by acne treatments (retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, isotretinoin).
- You want a soap-free, non-stripping daily cleanser.
- You prefer a gentle, dermatologist-tested French pharmacy formula.
- You're pregnant or breastfeeding and need an active-free cleanser.
❌ Consider alternatives if:
- You're strictly managing fungal acne (Malassezia) and avoid oils/esters.
- You want a completely fragrance-free formula.
- You're looking for a heavy makeup remover or cleansing balm.
- You have very dry skin needing a richer, more nourishing cleanser.
- You want a leave-on exfoliating or treatment product, not a rinse-off wash.
🎯 Skin Type Compatibility
Sebum-regulating S.M.A. complex helps control shine and refine the skin without over-drying.
Non-comedogenic and zinc-rich; designed to pair with dermatological acne treatments.
Balances oilier zones while glycerin and soy keep drier areas comfortable.
High-tolerance and soothing, but contains parfum — patch test if very reactive.
Gentler than most acne cleansers, but very dry skin may prefer a richer cream wash.
Contains fatty acids, esters and soybean oil that can trigger Malassezia.
📈 Results Timeline
Comfortable, Non-Tight Cleanse
Skin feels clean, soft and soothed right after rinsing — no stinging or post-wash tightness.
100% reported immediate comfortLess Shine, Smoother Feel
Daily use begins to mattify the T-zone and reduce that mid-day oily look.
~80% noticed reduced shineClearer, More Balanced Skin
Excess sebum is better regulated and the skin looks clearer and more even.
Up to 86% less oily appearance (brand study)Sustained Tolerance with Treatments
Used long-term alongside acne therapy, it helps keep treatment-weakened skin comfortable and supported.
100% dermatologist-validated for sensitized acne skin⭐ Ratings by Platform
⚖️ Pros & Cons
✅ Praised
- Genuinely gentle and non-stripping for an acne cleanser.
- Controls oil and shine without causing tightness.
- Excellent companion for harsh acne treatments.
- Soap-free, 96% natural origin, cruelty-free and reef safe.
- Creamy foam rinses cleanly and doesn't sting the eyes.
❌ Criticized
- Not fungal-acne (Malassezia) safe.
- Contains parfum — not ideal for fragrance-avoiders.
- Harder to find outside French/EU pharmacies.
- Not a makeup remover; needs an oil cleanser for heavy makeup.
- Active concentrations of the S.M.A. complex aren't disclosed.
💰 Budget-Friendly Alternatives (Dupes)
Fragrance-free foaming gel for oily skin with niacinamide and ceramides. More barrier-focused and less sebum-targeting, but cheaper and easier to find.
Another French pharmacy oily/acne cleanser with zinc PCA. More of a clarifying gel than a creamy wash, and slightly more astringent.
Soap-free gel for blemish-prone skin from a comparable French dermo brand. Targets the same shopper with a lighter, foamier texture.
Adds 2% salicylic acid for active exfoliation — stronger on clogged pores but not pregnancy-safe and potentially more drying.
🔄 Comparison with Competitors
ACM Boréade CL (This Product)
$25.00La Roche-Posay Effaclar Gel
$16.99Avène Cleanance Gel
$20.00Bioderma Sébium Gel Moussant
$17.90📦 Storage & Shelf Life
12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight; keep the cap closed.
200 ml pump bottle
Full 200 ml size exceeds the 100 ml carry-on limit — decant for flights or pack in checked luggage.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, it's generally considered pregnancy- and breastfeeding-friendly. It contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone or chemical UV filters. The only AHA (citric acid) is present at a low level as a pH adjuster, not as an active exfoliant. As always, confirm with your doctor or midwife if you have concerns.
No. It contains several fatty acids and esters — including soybean oil, soybean sterols, glyceryl caprylate, capryloyl glycine, hydrogenated castor oil and cetearyl alcohol — that can feed Malassezia yeast. As a quick rinse-off cleanser the contact time is short, but those strictly managing fungal acne should choose a fully fungal-acne-safe option.
Yes. As a rinse-off cleanser it doesn't conflict with leave-on actives like retinol, vitamin C, AHAs or BHAs — it simply cleanses the skin first. In fact, it's specifically designed to keep skin comfortable when used alongside drying acne treatments such as retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and isotretinoin.
It's best for oily, combination and acne-prone skin, including skin that's been sensitized or dried out by acne treatments. Sensitive skin generally tolerates it well thanks to soothing bisabolol and quinoa peptides, but very dry skin may prefer a richer cleanser and fragrance-sensitive users should patch test.
Comfort is immediate — skin feels clean and non-tight right after the first wash. Reduced shine typically appears within 1–2 weeks, with clearer, more balanced skin around 4 weeks. The brand's clinical study reported up to 86% less oily appearance, and it's intended for continued use over roughly 2–6 months.
It's your first step, used morning and/or evening on damp skin. Massage in, rinse with lukewarm water, pat dry, then follow with toner (optional), treatments, serum, moisturizer and — in the morning — sunscreen.
No. The formula is specifically marketed as non-comedogenic and is designed for acne-prone skin, earning a low comedogenic rating of roughly 1/5. Because it rinses off, the oils it contains have minimal opportunity to sit on the skin and clog pores.
The Period After Opening (PAO) is 12 months. Store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and keep the cap closed between uses to maintain freshness.
Verdict: Boréade CL Cleansing Cream is one of the most thoughtful gentle cleansers for oily and acne-prone skin — especially for anyone whose skin has been pushed to its limits by retinoids or benzoyl peroxide. It walks the rare line of controlling sebum while still feeling soft and non-stripping, backed by ACM's S.M.A. complex, zinc, soothing bisabolol and quinoa peptides. The two caveats: it's not fungal-acne safe and it contains a light fragrance. If neither is a dealbreaker, it's an excellent, dermatologist-tested daily cleanser at a fair price.
Product Overview
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 0 |
Bisabolol
Masking, Skin Conditioning, Soothing
|
Redness
Irritation
Dark Spots
|
|
| 1 |
Butyl Avocadate
Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Capryloyl Glycine
Surfactant, Hair Conditioning, Cleansing
|
|

