Cooling Aqua Jelly
Cooling Aqua Jelly
Product Description
Product overview
A weightless jelly-based cooling moisturizer that delivers dewy hydration to oily and breakout-prone skin without adding shine. Formulated with Hyaluronic Acid, a retinol-like Bioflavonoid Complex, Blue Tansy Flower Oil and Blueberry Extract to hydrate, reduce excess oil, calm redness and brighten skin.
Oil-Free Hydration
Hyaluronic Acid locks in moisture without adding oil, leaving skin hydrated and balanced all day long.
Texture & feel
SENSORYOil-Free Hydration
Hyaluronic Acid locks in moisture without adding oil, leaving skin hydrated and balanced all day long.
Cooling Sensation
The jelly-like texture delivers an instant cooling effect on application, soothing irritated and inflamed skin.
Retinol-Like Bioflavonoid Complex
Plant-derived prenylflavonoids mimic retinol's oil-reducing and skin-refining benefits without irritation or sun sensitivity.
Blue Tansy & Blueberry Blend
Antioxidant-rich botanicals calm redness, soothe inflammation and brighten dull, uneven skin tone.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains essential oils (Cinnamon, Clove, Citrus) which some dermatologists advise avoiding during pregnancy. No retinoids or salicylic acid present. Consult your doctor before use.
Not fungal acne safe. Contains Sorbitan Oleate (oleic acid ester) and multiple plant oils/extracts that can feed Malassezia yeast.
Rated 1/5 on the comedogenic scale. Oil-free, water-based gel formula is unlikely to clog pores or cause breakouts.
No active exfoliating acids or true retinoids in the formula. Safe to layer with retinol, Vitamin C, AHA and BHA products.
Contains Blue Tansy, Clove, Cinnamon and Citrus essential oils. Patch test recommended for very sensitive or reactive skin types.
Free from parabens, sulfates, phthalates, gluten, artificial dyes and animal-derived ingredients. Certified cruelty-free and vegan.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSSodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid)Proven
The sodium salt form of Hyaluronic Acid with a lower molecular weight, allowing deeper penetration into the skin. Acts as a powerful humectant that attracts and retains up to 1000x its weight in water, providing intense hydration without heaviness.
- Function: Deeply hydrates skin and helps retain moisture throughout the day
- Research: Extensive clinical evidence supports HA's ability to improve skin hydration, elasticity and plumpness
- Benefit: Lightweight hydration that plumps skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines
Maclura Cochinchinensis Leaf PrenylflavonoidsPromising
A retinol-like bioflavonoid complex derived from the Maclura Cochinchinensis plant. Mimics the oil-reducing and skin-refining effects of retinol without the associated irritation, dryness or photosensitivity.
- Function: Helps reduce excess sebum production and refine skin texture
- Research: Prenylflavonoids have shown retinol-like activity in regulating oil production and improving skin clarity
- Benefit: Gentle alternative to retinol suitable for sensitive and young skin
Tanacetum Annuum (Blue Tansy) Flower OilPromising
A deeply blue essential oil from the Blue Tansy flower, prized for its calming and anti-inflammatory properties. Rich in chamazulene, which gives it the distinctive blue colour and powerful soothing benefits.
- Function: Calms redness, soothes inflammation and provides antioxidant protection
- Research: Chamazulene has demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity in dermatological studies
- Benefit: Visibly reduces redness and irritation while delivering a cooling sensation
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit ExtractProven
A potent antioxidant-rich botanical extract from wild blueberries. Delivers high levels of anthocyanins and Vitamin C to protect skin from environmental damage and brighten the complexion.
- Function: Provides antioxidant protection and brightens dull skin
- Research: Anthocyanins in blueberry extract show strong free radical scavenging activity
- Benefit: Evens skin tone and supports a healthy, radiant glow
Haslea Ostrearia (Blue Algae) ExtractPromising
A marine-derived extract from blue microalgae known for its hydrating and nourishing properties. Helps attract water to the upper layers of the skin and provides additional antioxidant benefits.
- Function: Hydrates and nourishes skin while supporting moisture retention
- Research: Marine algae extracts have demonstrated skin-conditioning and antioxidant activity
- Benefit: Enhances the cooling, refreshing feel while boosting hydration levels
Glycerin High concentrationProven
A skin-identical humectant found naturally in the skin's moisture barrier. Second ingredient in the formula, indicating a high concentration. Draws water from the environment and deeper skin layers to the surface, keeping skin plump and soft.
- Function: Powerful humectant that restores and maintains the skin's moisture barrier
- Research: A 2016 study found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid
- Benefit: Prevents transepidermal water loss and keeps skin soft, supple and hydrated
30 ingredients
Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Leaf Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Oil, Propanediol, Maclura Cochinchinensis Leaf Prenylflavonoids, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Haslea Ostrearia Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Flower/Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Tanacetum Annuum Flower Oil, Sodium Chloride.
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply as the last step before sunscreen in the AM and as the final step in the PM. Can be used alone as a lightweight moisturizer or layered over serums and treatments.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Prep
Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Apply toner and any treatment serums first, letting each layer absorb.
Dispense a Pea-Sized Amount
Squeeze a small pea-sized amount of the Cooling Aqua Jelly onto your fingertips. A little goes a long way with this concentrated formula.
Apply to Face & Neck
Gently spread the jelly over your entire face and neck using light, upward strokes. Enjoy the instant cooling sensation as it absorbs into the skin.
Use Day & Night
Follow with sunscreen in the morning. At night, this is your final step. Pro tip: store in the fridge for an extra cooling boost!
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have oily or combination skin that needs hydration without heaviness
- You struggle with excess shine and want a dewy-not-greasy finish
- You are a teen or young adult dealing with breakout-prone skin
- You want a lightweight moisturizer to pair with acne treatments
- You prefer clean, vegan and cruelty-free skincare
- You enjoy a cooling, refreshing sensation when applying moisturizer
Consider alternatives if:
- You have very dry skin that needs rich, heavy-duty moisture
- You are sensitive to essential oils (cinnamon, clove, citrus)
- You need a fungal acne (malassezia) safe moisturizer
- You want a completely fragrance-free product
- You prefer a matte finish over a dewy one
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESDesigned specifically for oily skin. Oil-free gel absorbs fast without adding shine while the bioflavonoid complex helps regulate sebum production.
Balances oily T-zone without neglecting drier areas. Lightweight enough to avoid congestion yet hydrating enough to comfort dry patches.
Non-comedogenic, oil-free formula that hydrates without clogging pores. Perfect companion to drying acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide.
Calming Blue Tansy and Blueberry Extract soothe irritation. However, essential oils may not suit very reactive skin — patch test recommended.
Provides lightweight hydration but likely insufficient as a standalone moisturizer for dry skin. Best layered under a richer cream for added moisture.
Works well as a light daily moisturizer, especially in warm or humid climates. May want to supplement with a richer product in winter months.
Results timeline
MONTH 2+Instant Cooling & Hydration
Skin feels instantly refreshed, cooled and lightly hydrated. The jelly texture absorbs quickly, leaving a dewy but non-greasy finish.
95% noticed immediate cooling effectReduced Shine & Balanced Oil
Excess oil production begins to normalise. Skin appears less shiny throughout the day without feeling tight or dehydrated.
80% noticed reduced shineSmoother, Softer Texture
Skin texture improves as the bioflavonoid complex refines pores. Redness and irritation visibly decrease thanks to the calming botanicals.
100% experienced smoother, softer skin (clinical study)Clearer, Brighter Complexion
Consistent use delivers a visibly brighter, more even-toned complexion with fewer breakouts and reduced post-acne marks.
85% reported a clearer complexionRatings by platform
2K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Extremely lightweight and absorbs without greasiness
- Instant cooling sensation feels refreshing on the skin
- Provides hydration without causing breakouts
- Pairs well with acne treatments without irritation
- Clean formula: vegan, cruelty-free, paraben-free
- Dewy finish gives a healthy glow without oily shine
- 100% of clinical study participants reported smoother skin in 4 weeks
- Great for teens and adults with oily/combo skin
Criticized
- Can feel tacky or sticky before fully absorbing (1–2 minutes)
- Small 59ml tube size for the $25 price point
- Not hydrating enough for dry or very dehydrated skin
- Contains essential oils that may irritate very sensitive skin
- Not fungal acne safe due to Sorbitan Oleate
- Light botanical scent may bother fragrance-sensitive users
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPESSimilar HA-based gel moisturizer for oily skin. Contains dimethicone (silicone) and fragrance. Lacks the botanical bioflavonoid complex and blue tansy benefits but delivers comparable lightweight hydration.
Ultra-affordable water-based gel with electrolytes. Fragrance-free and simpler formula. Misses the oil-control bioflavonoid complex and calming blue tansy but offers solid lightweight hydration for oily skin.

Gel-cream hybrid with auto-replenishing technology and hyaluronic acid. Richer feel provides more moisture but lacks the cooling sensation and oil-control actives. Better for combination-to-normal skin than very oily types.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Clinique Moisture Surge 100H
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place. For an extra cooling boost, keep it in the fridge — especially great during summer months.
Squeeze tube made from 38% post-consumer recycled plastic (PCR). Hygienic dispensing prevents contamination.
Yes — 59ml / 2 fl oz is well under the 100ml TSA carry-on limit. Compact tube fits easily in any travel bag.
Frequently asked questions
FAQUse with caution. While the formula does not contain retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone or chemical sunscreens, it does include several essential oils (Cinnamon Bark Oil, Clove Oil, Citrus Peel Extracts) that many dermatologists and OB-GYNs recommend avoiding during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Consult your healthcare provider before using this product if you are pregnant or nursing.
No, this product is not considered fungal acne safe. It contains Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer, which includes an oleic acid ester that can feed Malassezia yeast. It also contains multiple plant oils and extracts that may exacerbate fungal acne. If you suffer from fungal acne, consider alternatives with simpler, FA-safe ingredient lists.
Yes! The Cooling Aqua Jelly does not contain any active exfoliating acids or true retinoids, making it safe to layer with retinol, Vitamin C serums and AHA/BHA products. In fact, its hydrating and soothing formula makes it an excellent companion to potentially drying active treatments, helping to buffer irritation and maintain moisture levels.
The Cooling Aqua Jelly was specifically designed for oily and combination skin types, including acne-prone and breakout-prone skin. It is also suitable for teens and young adults. People with normal skin may enjoy it as a lightweight summer moisturizer. However, those with dry or very dehydrated skin will likely find it insufficient as a standalone moisturizer and should layer it under a richer cream.
You will feel instant cooling and hydration from the very first use. Reduced oiliness and improved balance are typically noticeable within 1–2 weeks of daily use. In Dermalogica's clinical study (35 subjects, 4 weeks), 100% of participants experienced smoother, softer skin after daily application. For full skin-refining and brightening results, consistent use for 4–8 weeks is recommended.
Apply as the last step of your skincare routine, after cleanser, toner and any serums or treatment products. In the morning, follow with sunscreen. Use both day and night. A pea-sized amount is sufficient for the entire face and neck. For extra coolness, store the tube in the fridge.
No. The Cooling Aqua Jelly is non-comedogenic with a rating of 1/5 on the comedogenic scale. The oil-free, water-based gel formula is specifically designed for acne-prone skin and is very unlikely to clog pores. Key ingredients like Glycerin (comedogenic rating: 0) and Sodium Hyaluronate (comedogenic rating: 0) are among the safest hydrating ingredients available.
The Cooling Aqua Jelly has a Period After Opening (PAO) of 12 months. Once opened, use within one year for optimal effectiveness. The sealed squeeze tube helps prevent contamination and preserves the formula's integrity. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
Verdict: The Dermalogica Clear Start Cooling Aqua Jelly is an excellent lightweight moisturizer for anyone with oily or combination skin who struggles to find hydration without heaviness. Its standout features — the instant cooling sensation, retinol-like bioflavonoid complex and calming Blue Tansy Oil — elevate it above basic gel moisturizers. The clean, vegan formula with 38% recycled packaging also earns points for sustainability. Where it falls short is its small tube size for the price, the presence of essential oils that may irritate very sensitive skin, and its lack of fungal acne safety. Overall, it is a smart, effective choice for oily and acne-prone skin types seeking balanced hydration with a dewy, shine-free finish.
Product Overview
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning, Humectant
|
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Carbomer
Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
|
|
|
| 1 |
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Chelating Agent
|
|





