Cordes VAS Tretinoin Creme
Cordes VAS Tretinoin Creme
Product Description
Cordes VAS by Ichthyol is a German prescription acne cream built around 0.05% tretinoin β the pure, gold-standard retinoid (vitamin A acid). This minimalist 13-ingredient formula pairs that proven active with vitamin C and a touch of AHA to clear inflammatory breakouts (papules and pustules), refine texture, fade marks and soften early signs of aging. A no-frills, fragrance-free workhorse trusted by German dermatologists for decades.
β¨ Texture & Feel
Pure Tretinoin
The most-studied retinoid and the active form of vitamin A β no conversion needed, so it gets to work on skin immediately.
Dual Action
Clears inflammatory acne while smoothing texture, fading marks and softening fine lines with consistent use.
Vitamin C Boost
Includes a stabilized vitamin C component plus a BHT antioxidant to support brightening and protect the formula.
Clean & Simple
A focused 13-ingredient formula β fragrance-free, alcohol-free, paraben- and silicone-free, vegan and reef-safe.
π‘οΈ Safety & Compatibility
Not safe. Topical tretinoin is a retinoid and is contraindicated in pregnancy, when planning a pregnancy, and should not be applied to the breast while nursing.
Tretinoin increases UV sensitivity. Apply only at night and wear a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every morning.
Introduce slowly and avoid using it at the same time as benzoyl peroxide or strong exfoliating acids until skin is acclimated.
Not for use on rosacea, eczema, perioral dermatitis or actively inflamed and broken skin.
Not recommended for children under 12 years of age; use only as directed by a doctor.
Start every 2β3 nights and patch test first; expect possible dryness, redness and peeling during the adjustment phase.
π¬ Ingredient Breakdown
π °οΈ Tretinoin 0.05% Proven
The star active and the reason this cream is prescription-only. Tretinoin is all-trans retinoic acid β the biologically active form of vitamin A that skin can use directly, with no conversion step required.
- Mechanism: Normalizes skin-cell turnover and keratinization, helping to unclog pores and prevent comedones.
- Clinical use: Decades of evidence for treating acne vulgaris and improving photoaging, tone and fine lines.
- Strength: 0.05% (0.05 g per 100 g of cream) β a moderate prescription concentration.
π Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Antioxidant Promising
Included as a stabilized vitamin C component (palmitoyl ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is a well-studied antioxidant that supports brightening and helps defend skin against free-radical damage.
- Antioxidant: Helps neutralize oxidative stress from UV exposure and pollution.
- Synergy: Complements tretinoin's tone-evening and brightening effects.
π Citric Acid AHA Promising
A naturally derived alpha-hydroxy acid. Here it works mainly as a pH buffer to keep the formula stable and skin-compatible, with only mild exfoliating support.
- Function: Adjusts and stabilizes the formula's pH.
- Note: True AHA exfoliation needs far higher concentrations than used here.
π‘οΈ BHT Preservative Supporting
A synthetic antioxidant and preservative that stabilizes the formula and prevents oxidation of the actives so they stay effective.
- Approved: Permitted by the FDA and EU at cosmetic use levels.
- Note: Restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
π§ Propylene Glycol Humectant Proven
A well-studied humectant and solvent that draws water into the skin and helps dissolve and deliver the active ingredients evenly.
- Tolerance: CIR-reviewed as non-toxic; true allergy is rare (around 0.3% in one large study).
𧴠Isopropyl Myristate Emollient Caution
An emollient and penetration enhancer that softens skin and helps other ingredients absorb. It is one of the more pore-clogging ingredients in this formula.
- Comedogenic: Rated roughly 3β5 depending on concentration β the main driver of the cream's moderate comedogenic score.
π§ Cetearyl Alcohol Fatty Alcohol Supporting
A waxy, non-drying fatty alcohol that acts as an emollient and emulsifier β unrelated to the drying solvent alcohols people often worry about.
- Safety: Generally non-irritating; CIR-affirmed safe up to 25% in leave-on products.
13 ingredients
Tretinoin, BHT, Cetearyl Alcohol, Triethyl Phosphate, Citric Acid, Glycol Stearate, Isopropyl Myristate, Ascorbic Acid (as Palmitoyl Ascorbic Acid), Glycereth-7 Cocoate, Propylene Glycol, Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbic Acid, Water (Aqua).
π Where It Fits in Your Routine
Use in the PM only. After cleansing, wait until skin is fully dry (sensitive skin can apply a light moisturizer first to "buffer"), apply a pea-sized amount, then seal with moisturizer. Always follow with SPF 30+ the next morning.
π How to Use
Start Slow
Begin with 2β3 nights per week to let your skin adjust, then build up frequency as tolerated.
Cleanse & Dry
Wash with a gentle cleanser and wait 20β30 minutes until skin is completely dry before applying.
Apply a Pea-Size Amount
Dot a small amount across affected areas. Avoid the eyes, lips and corners of the nose, then wash your hands.
Moisturize
Follow with a simple moisturizer to reduce dryness; sensitive skin can apply it before the cream to buffer.
Protect by Day
Use a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every morning β tretinoin makes skin noticeably more sun-sensitive.
π€ Who Is It For?
β Perfect for you if:
- You have persistent or inflammatory acne (papules and pustules)
- You want the proven, gold-standard retinoid and can get a prescription
- You're also interested in long-term anti-aging and texture benefits
- You can commit to nightly use plus daily sunscreen
- You prefer a fragrance-free, no-frills formula
β Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant, breastfeeding or planning a pregnancy
- You have rosacea, eczema, perioral dermatitis or very reactive skin
- You want an over-the-counter option with no doctor visit
- You're prone to fungal acne (malassezia)
- You want a cushiony, fragranced, "luxury" cream texture
π― Skin Type Compatibility
Helps normalize oil and keratinization; a strong fit for oily, breakout-prone skin.
The dermatology gold standard for acne vulgaris, though expect an initial purge.
Works well overall; buffer the drier zones of the face with moisturizer.
Effective but can be drying and flaky; layer with a richer moisturizer.
High irritation potential; not suitable for rosacea or very reactive skin.
π Results Timeline
Adjustment & Purge
Possible dryness, redness, peeling and a temporary breakout as skin-cell turnover speeds up.
Most users report some drynessSkin Settles
Irritation eases as skin acclimates, and fewer new breakouts begin to appear.
Tolerance usually improvesVisible Clearing
Clearer skin, smaller-looking pores and smoother, more even texture become noticeable.
Clearer skin reportedFull Results
Marked reduction in acne, brighter tone and softened fine lines with consistent use and daily SPF.
Best results long-termβ Ratings by Platform
βοΈ Pros & Cons
β Praised
- Contains pure tretinoin β the most-proven retinoid, no conversion needed
- Tackles both acne and visible signs of aging
- Fragrance-free, vegan, cruelty-free and reef-safe
- Simple, focused 13-ingredient formula
- Inexpensive (ββ¬16 for 25 g) and long-lasting
- Bonus vitamin C and antioxidant support
β Criticized
- Prescription-only β needs a doctor's visit and isn't sold globally
- Irritation, dryness and purging during the adjustment phase
- Not safe in pregnancy or breastfeeding
- Contains isopropyl myristate (can clog pores; not fungal-acne safe)
- Requires diligent daily sunscreen
- Basic tube packaging; instructions in German
π° Budget-Friendly Alternatives (Dupes)
OTC, FDA-approved retinoid for acne. Gentler and more stable than tretinoin and available without a prescription, but generally slower for anti-aging benefits.
Retinaldehyde converts to retinoic acid in a single step β close to tretinoin in strength and OTC, but delivered in a lightweight serum rather than a cream.
A gentle, next-generation OTC retinoid for beginners. Much less irritating, but also milder and slower than prescription tretinoin.
π Comparison with Competitors
Cordes VAS Tretinoin Creme (Featured)
β¬15.77Bailleul Ketrel 0.05% Tretinoin Cream
~β¬10Differin Adapalene 0.1% Gel
$13.49The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2%
$9.90π¦ Storage & Shelf Life
About 3 months after opening for best potency β and never use past the printed expiry date.
Store below 25Β°C in a cool, dry place away from direct light and heat; keep the tube tightly closed.
Sealed aluminum/laminate tube (25 g or 50 g) that protects the light-sensitive active.
Yes β 25 g and 50 g are well under 100 ml; keep away from heat and sunlight in transit.
β Frequently Asked Questions
No. Topical tretinoin is a retinoid and is contraindicated during pregnancy, when planning a pregnancy, and should not be applied to the breast while nursing. Talk to your doctor about pregnancy-safe alternatives such as azelaic acid.
Not fully. While it is fragrance- and oil-free, it contains fatty alcohols and esters (cetearyl alcohol, isopropyl myristate, glycol stearate, sorbitan stearate and glycereth-7 cocoate) that Malassezia can feed on, so it is best avoided if you are prone to fungal acne.
It already is a potent retinoid, so don't layer additional retinol on top. It contains a little vitamin C and AHA built in. Avoid using strong AHAs, BHAs or benzoyl peroxide at the same time β especially early on β and instead alternate nights or use them in the morning.
Oily and acne-prone skin benefit the most. Combination skin does well with buffering, and dry skin can use it with a rich moisturizer. Sensitive, rosacea- or eczema-prone skin should generally avoid it.
Expect an adjustment period in the first 2β6 weeks (dryness, peeling and a possible purge). Clearer skin typically shows around weeks 8β12, with the fullest results after 3β6 months of consistent use.
At night, after cleansing and once skin is completely dry. Apply a pea-sized amount, then follow with moisturizer. It is the treatment step before your final moisturizer; always finish with SPF the next morning.
Tretinoin itself is anti-acne, but the formula contains isopropyl myristate, which can be pore-clogging for some β giving a moderate comedogenic rating of about 3/5. Most acne-prone users tolerate it well, but patch test if you are very reactive.
As a tretinoin product it is sensitive to light and air. For best potency, use it within about 3 months of opening, store it cool and dark, and never use it past the printed expiry date.
Verdict: Cordes VAS is a no-nonsense, genuinely effective acne treatment built around 0.05% tretinoin β the dermatology gold standard β at a remarkably low price. The fragrance-free, vegan formula keeps things simple and adds a touch of vitamin C, and decades of clinical use back its results for both acne and aging. The trade-offs are real: it's prescription-only, takes weeks to settle, can be drying and irritating, isn't fungal-acne safe, and is strictly off-limits during pregnancy. For committed users who can pair it with daily sunscreen, it's one of the best-value retinoids you can get.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skinβs own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging Β«promisesΒ» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 3 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 3 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 |
Tretinoin
Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Ache-fighting
Anti-Aging
Promotes Wound Healing
Dark Spots
Texture
Pores
|
|
| 6 |
BHT
Masking, Fragrance, Antioxidant
|
|
|
| 1 |
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Viscosity Controlling
|
|
|
| 2 |
Citric Acid
Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent
|
Brightening
Anti-Aging
Promotes Wound Healing
Texture
Pores
|
|
| 1 |
Glycol Stearate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Surfactant, Emulsion Stabilising, Emulsifying, Opacifying
|
|