Flawless Neutralising Gel
Flawless Neutralising Gel
Product Description
Product overview
A dermatologist-formulated, fragrance-free blemish treatment gel from Dr Sam's that targets breakouts, blackheads and post-acne dark marks. Its triple-active blend of 5% Azelaic Acid, 2% Salicylic Acid and 0.5% Bakuchiol reduces spot size and redness while 5% Squalane keeps the skin barrier hydrated and calm. Lightweight, non-comedogenic, vegan and cruelty-free — brilliant under make-up.
Triple-Active Formula
Azelaic acid, salicylic acid and bakuchiol work synergistically to unclog pores, calm inflammation and prevent future breakouts.
Texture & feel
SENSORYTriple-Active Formula
Azelaic acid, salicylic acid and bakuchiol work synergistically to unclog pores, calm inflammation and prevent future breakouts.
Barrier-Respecting
5% Squalane hydrates and protects the skin barrier so actives don't leave skin dry, tight or flaky.
Make-Up Friendly
Absorbs quickly to a non-greasy, natural finish that layers beautifully under sunscreen and foundation.
Dermatologist-Created
Developed by London cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting with a "less is more" clinical philosophy.
Minimalist INCI
Just 11 ingredients — no fragrance, no essential oils, no silicones, no parabens, no sulphates.
Vegan & Cruelty-Free
Certified cruelty-free and 100% vegan — no animal-derived ingredients or animal testing.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEAzelaic acid is considered pregnancy-friendly, and 2% salicylic acid sits at the upper safe limit per ACOG. However, bakuchiol's safety in pregnancy hasn't been confirmed — consult your doctor before use.
Contains PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, which are generally considered fungal-acne friendly, but some sensitive users may prefer to patch test first.
Officially tested and rated non-comedogenic. No ingredients with known pore-clogging risk — squalane is a 0 on the comedogenic scale.
Azelaic acid is a gold-standard ingredient for rosacea and redness-prone skin. Low irritation risk, fragrance-free, no essential oils.
Do NOT use if allergic to aspirin (acetylsalicylate) — this product contains salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid related to aspirin.
Azelaic acid does not cause photosensitivity. However, daily broad-spectrum SPF 30+ is essential when using any BHA to prevent new dark marks.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSAzelaic Acid 5%Proven
A dicarboxylic acid naturally produced by yeast on healthy skin. Considered one of dermatology's most versatile multitaskers — it kills acne-causing bacteria, calms inflammation, gently exfoliates pores, and fades post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma.
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2023): A systematic review confirmed azelaic acid's efficacy across acne, rosacea, melasma and skin aging.
- Clinical studies: At 15–20% concentrations (prescription), it performs comparably to benzoyl peroxide and tretinoin for inflammatory acne.
- Unlike AHAs: Does not increase photosensitivity — safe for morning use with SPF.
Salicylic Acid 2%Proven
The gold-standard beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) for oily and blemish-prone skin. Because it's oil-soluble, it penetrates deep into pores to dissolve sebum, dead cells and debris — the perfect partner for azelaic acid's surface work.
- Mechanism: Keratolytic, anti-inflammatory and mildly antibacterial — shrinks active pimples and prevents new ones.
- FDA-recognised: 2% is the maximum OTC leave-on concentration allowed for acne treatment in the US and UK.
- Synergy: Combining salicylic acid with azelaic acid outperforms either active alone for mixed blemishes and comedones.
Bakuchiol 0.5%Promising
A plant-derived compound from thePsoralea corylifolia seed. Acts as a gentler "retinol alternative" — it upregulates similar skin-renewal genes but without the typical retinoid irritation, dryness or sun-sensitivity.
- British Journal of Dermatology (2019): A split-face trial showed bakuchiol and retinol produced comparable improvements in wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, with bakuchiol causing less scaling and stinging.
- Benefits: Stimulates collagen, evens tone, reduces post-blemish marks and softens fine lines.
- Antioxidant: Neutralises free radicals contributing to premature aging.
Squalane 5%Proven
A saturated, plant-derived lipid that mimics the skin's natural sebum. Provides lightweight, non-greasy moisture and reinforces the skin barrier so actives don't compromise skin comfort.
- Barrier support: Reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) without occluding pores.
- Comedogenic rating: 0 out of 5 — completely safe for acne-prone skin.
- Antioxidant activity: Helps neutralise oxidative stress from UV and pollution.
11 ingredients — one of the shortest active-packed formulas on the market.
Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Azelaic Acid (5%), Squalane (5%), Salicylic Acid (2%), Glyceryl Stearate, Disodium EDTA, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Bakuchiol (0.5%).
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply directly after cleansing on clean, dry skin — before moisturiser. Can be used AM or PM. On retinoid nights, apply Neutralising Gel first, wait for it to absorb, then layer retinoid on unaffected areas.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Dry
After cleansing, pat skin gently dry. Protect delicate areas by applying moisturiser around the eyes ("moisturiser goggles") and a layer of balm on the lips.
Apply with Modified Dot Technique
Start with half a fingertip amount, every other evening, avoiding eyes and lips. Dot onto the blemish-prone zone (e.g. chin, forehead) and gently press in.
Massage Until Absorbed
Smooth the product in with light pressure until fully absorbed (around 30 seconds). The finish should feel light and invisible, not tacky.
Follow with Moisturiser & SPF
Apply moisturiser (if needed) and broad-spectrum SPF 30+ in the morning. Daily sunscreen is essential when using salicylic acid.
Build Up Gradually
After 2–4 weeks, increase to a full fingertip amount daily as tolerated. Remember — a skin cycle is 6 weeks, so meaningful results take time.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You suffer from hormonal, adult or jawline acne
- You have persistent blackheads or congested pores
- You're left with post-acne redness or dark marks (PIH/PIE)
- You have rosacea or redness-prone skin
- Past spot treatments have dried or stripped your skin
- You want a minimalist, fragrance-free formula
- You prefer dermatologist-backed, evidence-based skincare
Consider alternatives if:
- You're allergic to aspirin or salicylates
- You're pregnant or breastfeeding (speak to your doctor first)
- You need a prescription-strength treatment for cystic acne
- You prefer balms, rich creams or oil textures
- You have a sensitivity to propylene glycol
- You want fragrance or sensory luxury in your skincare
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESSalicylic acid dissolves excess sebum while the lightweight gel texture absorbs cleanly without shine.
Squalane helps offset dryness, but follow with a rich moisturiser — and use every other day initially.
Ideal as a targeted treatment for oily T-zone or chin breakouts, while drier cheeks remain untouched.
Fragrance-free and gentle — azelaic acid is a rosacea favourite. Patch test first; some report stinging.
Non-comedogenic, triple-active formula purpose-built for mild-to-moderate acne, blackheads and post-acne marks.
Bakuchiol offers retinol-like anti-aging benefits and azelaic acid brightens — a smart choice for adult acne with fine lines.
Results timeline
8–12 WEEKSReduced Inflammation
Users consistently report that active pimples lose swelling and redness overnight. Ideal as a short-term emergency spot treatment.
82% noticedFewer New Breakouts
Pores begin to clear, blackhead density reduces and fewer new spots emerge — especially in chronic zones like the chin and jawline.
68% noticedCalmer, More Even Tone
Overall redness subsides and post-inflammatory marks begin to lighten. Skin texture feels smoother under make-up.
74% noticedTransformed Complexion
Significant fading of hyperpigmentation, minimised pore appearance and a noticeable drop in breakout frequency with consistent daily use.
79% noticedRatings by platform
5K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Effective triple-active combo (azelaic + salicylic + bakuchiol)
- Noticeably reduces spot redness and swelling overnight
- Doesn't dry out or flake the surrounding skin
- Minimalist 11-ingredient INCI, fragrance-free
- Non-comedogenic and suitable for rosacea
- Vegan, cruelty-free and barrier-friendly
- Layers cleanly under make-up and SPF
Criticized
- Small 30ml tube at premium price point
- Propylene glycol can irritate very sensitive skin
- Some users report stinging on first few uses
- Not an overnight miracle — requires 4–6 weeks
- Not suitable for those with aspirin allergies
- Pregnancy safety requires doctor consultation (bakuchiol)
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Higher azelaic acid percentage (10% vs 5%) but silicone-heavy base can pill under make-up. No salicylic acid, no bakuchiol, no hydrating squalane — less well-rounded.
Cream-gel texture with 10% azelaic acid plus niacinamide and vitamin C. Lighter finish than The Ordinary. Misses salicylic acid and bakuchiol for the full spot-busting effect.
Contains 2% succinic acid, salicylic acid and sulphur. Drying action is harsher and formula is made for on-the-spot use rather than preventative zone treatment.
Closest formulation match — azelaic acid, salicylic acid and soothers (allantoin, bisabolol, licorice). Heavier lotion texture and contains phenoxyethanol; no bakuchiol.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Keep tightly sealed after each use.
Squeeze tube with narrow nozzle — hygienic and portion-controlled.
Yes — 30ml is well under the 100ml cabin-bag liquid limit.
Frequently asked questions
FAQCaution is advised. Azelaic acid is widely considered one of the safer acne actives in pregnancy, and 2% salicylic acid sits at the upper limit deemed low-risk by the American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists (ACOG) for topical use. However, bakuchiol's safety profile during pregnancy and breastfeeding has not been formally established, as it is relatively new in skincare and has not been studied in pregnant populations. Please consult your OB-GYN or dermatologist before using during pregnancy or while nursing.
It's considered mostly fungal-acne friendly. The main actives — azelaic acid, salicylic acid and bakuchiol — actively inhibit the Malassezia yeast linked to fungal acne. However, the formula contains PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, which some very strict malassezia protocols exclude. Most users with fungal acne tolerate it well; patch test on a small area for two weeks if you're highly sensitive.
Yes, with care. Azelaic acid plays well with almost everything, including vitamin C, niacinamide and retinoids. For retinol or tretinoin, apply Neutralising Gel first to spotty zones, let it absorb, then layer the retinoid on unaffected areas to avoid double-treating. The product already contains salicylic acid, so avoid stacking another BHA on top. If you use an AHA exfoliant, alternate nights rather than layering.
It's best for blemish-prone, oily, combination, acne-prone and redness-prone (rosacea) skin. The lightweight gel absorbs cleanly, so oily skin won't feel suffocated, and squalane provides enough cushioning for combination and normal skin. Very dry, mature or reactive skin may need to buffer with moisturiser and start with every-other-day application. Not recommended for those with aspirin allergies.
Many users report reduced spot size and redness within 24–48 hours when used as a targeted treatment. For the full transformation — fewer breakouts, faded post-acne marks and more even tone — allow 4–6 weeks (one complete skin cycle). Optimal results build at the 8–12 week mark with consistent use. Dr Sam's recommends slowly introducing it every other evening before moving to daily use.
Apply after cleansing and drying your skin, but before moisturiser and sunscreen. In the AM: cleanse → Neutralising Gel → moisturiser → SPF. In the PM: cleanse → Neutralising Gel → (retinoid on unaffected zones) → moisturiser. The Modified Dot Technique — dotting the product onto problem zones rather than spreading across the whole face — is the brand's recommended application method.
No. It has a comedogenic rating of 0/5 and is officially tested as non-comedogenic. None of the ingredients — including squalane (rating 0), PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate (low comedogenic risk) — are known pore-clogging ingredients. Several of the actives actively prevent clogged pores.
The product has a Period After Opening (PAO) of 12 months, which is standard for active-rich acne treatments. For optimal freshness and active potency, store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and keep the tube tightly closed. Most users report that a 30ml tube lasts 3–6 months with daily use, and up to 12 months when used as a targeted spot treatment.
Verdict: Dr Sam's Flawless Neutralising Gel is a genuinely clever, dermatologist-developed blemish treatment that earns its cult status. The 5% azelaic acid + 2% salicylic acid + 0.5% bakuchiol combination with 5% squalane tackles breakouts, congestion and post-acne marks without sacrificing the barrier — a rare balancing act. The minimalist 11-ingredient INCI, fragrance-free formula and non-comedogenic profile make it one of the most sensitive-skin-friendly spot treatments on the market. It's not cheap, and patience is required (4–6 weeks for meaningful results), but for adult, hormonal and rosacea-adjacent acne, this gel is a high-performing, barrier-respecting hero worth the investment.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 1 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 1 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 2 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 3 |
Propylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising
|
|
|
| 1 |
Azelaic Acid
Masking, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Buffering
|
Brightening
Ache-fighting
Promotes Wound Healing
Redness
Irritation
Texture
Pores
|
|
| 1 |
Squalane
Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Refatting
|
Hydrating
|