Flawless Nightly Serum
Flawless Nightly Serum
Product Description
Product overview
Dr Sam's Flawless Nightly Serum is a featherweight, fast-absorbing overnight treatment from London dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting. It layers four multi-tasking actives — 2% Granactive Retinoid®, 10% Niacinamide, 5% Azelaic Acid and 1% Bakuchiol — into a single layer designed to soften fine lines, clear pores and even skin tone for a "grown-up glow", all without fragrance and without clashing actives.
2% Granactive Retinoid®
A stable, next-generation retinoid ester (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) that targets pores, texture and fine lines with less irritation than classic retinol.
Texture & feel
SENSORY2% Granactive Retinoid®
A stable, next-generation retinoid ester (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) that targets pores, texture and fine lines with less irritation than classic retinol.
10% Niacinamide
A high, barrier-boosting dose of vitamin B3 that brightens, regulates oil and helps the skin tolerate the retinoid step.
5% Azelaic Acid
A yeast-derived acid that visibly calms redness and blemishes and helps fade post-acne pigmentation.
1% Bakuchiol
A gentle plant extract that behaves like a retinoid, supporting the anti-ageing effect while soothing blemish-prone skin.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains a retinoid (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate). Dr Sam's advises this serum is not suitable for use during pregnancy. Pause use and choose a retinoid-free alternative.
The brand states all Dr Sam's products, including this serum, are safe to use while breastfeeding. As always, check with your doctor.
Ingredient checkers flag no fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates or ferments known to feed malassezia, making it a safe choice for fungal-acne-prone skin.
Formulated and marketed as non-comedogenic. Lightweight, oil-free texture is unlikely to clog pores (rating ~1/5).
This already contains a retinoid. Don't combine it in the same routine with another retinol, retinal or prescription retinoid to avoid over-exfoliation.
Retinoids increase sun sensitivity. Use this at night only and always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSNiacinamide 10%Proven
The most generously dosed active in the formula. This well-studied form of vitamin B3 supports the skin barrier, helps regulate oil, brightens tone and softens the look of fine lines — and is known to make skin "like" retinoids better by reducing irritation.
- Function: Barrier support, oil regulation, brightening, anti-blemish.
- Evidence: Solid clinical research supports niacinamide for reducing pigmentation, blemishes and water loss.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate 2% Granactive Retinoid®Promising
The "hero" anti-ageing active, delivered as 2% Granactive Retinoid® (a solubilized complex of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, ~0.2% HPR). Unlike retinol, HPR is an ester that binds directly to retinoid receptors, so it works without the usual conversion steps — and tends to be gentler.
- What it is: A stable, next-generation cosmetic ester of retinoic acid.
- Evidence: In-vitro studies show strong collagen-gene activity; in-vivo human data is still emerging compared to retinol and tretinoin.
Azelaic Acid 5%Proven
A dicarboxylic acid produced by yeast that lives on normal skin. It gently exfoliates, calms redness, targets blemishes and helps fade post-inflammatory pigmentation — a great partner to the retinoid for clarity and even tone.
- Function: Anti-redness, anti-blemish, brightening, mild exfoliation.
- Evidence: Well-documented for acne and pigmentation; strongest acne effects are typically seen at 10–20%.
Bakuchiol 1%Promising
A seed extract that mimics some retinoid pathways without being a retinoid itself. It helps soften fine lines, even tone and calm blemish-prone skin, and pairs well with the HPR for a gentler overall experience.
- Function: Retinol-like anti-ageing support, soothing, anti-blemish.
- Evidence: Early studies suggest effects comparable to retinol with less irritation; long-term data is still limited.
Glycerin HumectantProven
One of the best-studied moisturising ingredients. It draws water into the upper layers of skin, helping offset any dryness from the active ingredients and keeping the formula comfortable.
- Function: Hydration and humectancy.
- Evidence: Extensively validated as a skin-replenishing humectant.
Allantoin SoothingProven
A gentle soothing agent that supports skin repair and helps keep the barrier calm — a smart inclusion in an active-heavy serum to reduce the risk of irritation.
- Function: Soothing, barrier support, helps restore skin faster.
- Evidence: Long-established as a calming, skin-conditioning ingredient.
Dimethyl Isosorbide CarrierPromising
A penetration enhancer that helps actives reach deeper layers of skin and work more effectively. It also solubilizes the Granactive Retinoid® so the HPR stays stable and evenly delivered.
- Function: Delivery booster and solvent for actives.
- Evidence: Recognised for improving the penetration of anti-acne and brightening actives.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate EmollientTexture
A light, almost odourless emollient that gives the serum its silky, fast-spreading feel and a velvet, dry-touch finish without heaviness or greasiness.
- Function: Lightweight emollient and slip agent.
- Evidence: Widely used to create elegant, non-greasy textures.
Butylene Glycol Humectant / SolventTexture
A multi-tasking humectant and solvent that helps dissolve ingredients, attract a little water to the skin surface and give the serum a smooth, pleasant texture.
- Function: Solvent, light humectant, texture enhancer.
- Evidence: A standard, well-tolerated cosmetic carrier ingredient.
20 ingredients
Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Azelaic Acid, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Bakuchiol, Tapioca Starch, Benzyl Alcohol, Allantoin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Polymethylsilsesquioxane.
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEA PM-only step. Apply to clean, dry skin before your moisturiser. Reserve vitamin C and dedicated acids for your morning routine, and always finish the next day with sunscreen.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & pat dry
Wash your face in the evening and gently pat the skin completely dry before applying.
Protect delicate areas
Dab moisturiser around the eyes ("moisturiser goggles") and a layer of balm on the lips to keep these sensitive zones protected.
Start low & slow
Apply just ½ a pump every other night using the brand's #13-dot technique, spreading evenly and avoiding the eyes and lips.
Build up gradually
As your skin adjusts, work up to one pump nightly. Follow with a moisturiser to seal in hydration.
Always wear SPF
Finish every morning with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to protect retinoid-treated skin and maximise results.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have breakout-prone skin and also want to address early signs of ageing.
- You want multiple actives without building a complicated multi-step routine.
- You've found classic retinol too irritating and want a gentler retinoid.
- You have oily, combination or acne-prone skin and prefer fragrance-free formulas.
- You want a non-comedogenic, fungal-acne-safe night treatment.
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant — this contains a retinoid and isn't recommended.
- You already use a separate retinol, retinal or prescription retinoid.
- You want a clinical-strength azelaic acid (10–20%) for stubborn acne.
- You have very dry or highly reactive skin and dislike any tingling.
- You're on a tight budget and want a single-active option.
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight, oil-free and fast-absorbing. The 10% niacinamide also helps keep excess shine in check.
Retinoid, azelaic acid and niacinamide all target blemishes and pores — and it's non-comedogenic and fungal-acne safe.
Balances oilier zones while the gentle retinoid and bakuchiol work on texture across the whole face.
Glycerin and allantoin keep it comfortable, but layer a richer moisturiser on top and start every other night.
Designed to be gentle, but retinoid + acid can still tingle. Patch test, go slow, and buffer with moisturiser if needed.
Results timeline
12 WEEKS+Softer, brighter skin
Many users notice skin feeling smoother and looking more radiant by morning. Some breakout-prone skin may experience mild purging as turnover speeds up.
Early adjustment phaseClearer pores & fewer blemishes
Around one full skin cycle in, pores look cleaner, blemishes appear less angry and post-acne marks begin to fade.
One skin cycle completeSmoother texture & even tone
With consistent use, fine lines soften, texture refines and overall tone looks more even — the signature "grown-up glow".
Visible transformationCumulative glow
Retinoid benefits build over time. Continued nightly use maintains clarity, firmness and that lit-from-within finish.
Long-term maintenanceRatings by platform
100+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Four complementary actives in a single, easy layer.
- Gentle next-generation retinoid (HPR) with less irritation than retinol.
- High 10% niacinamide for brightening and barrier support.
- Fragrance-free, non-comedogenic and fungal-acne safe.
- Dermatologist-formulated, vegan and cruelty-free.
- Lightweight, fast-absorbing and non-sticky texture.
Criticized
- Not suitable for use during pregnancy.
- Premium price (~£50) for a 30ml bottle.
- HPR has less human clinical data than retinol or tretinoin.
- 5% azelaic acid is lower than therapeutic acne strengths.
- Possible purging or tingling when first introduced.
- Cannot be layered with other retinoids.
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Uses the same hero retinoid (2% Granactive / HPR) plus a little retinol in a creamy emulsion. Closest match on the retinoid, but lacks the niacinamide, azelaic acid and bakuchiol combo.
An affordable Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate serum for the gentle-retinoid benefit. A single-active focus, so you'd add niacinamide and azelaic separately.
A low-cost encapsulated retinol for texture and ageing concerns. Different retinoid type and no multi-active blend, but very wallet-friendly.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
6 MONTHSApproximately 6 months after opening — use it within this window to keep the retinoid active and effective.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to protect the light-sensitive actives.
Pump-dispensed bottle that limits air and light exposure for better active stability.
Yes — 30ml is well under the 100ml cabin liquid limit.
Frequently asked questions
FAQIt is not recommended during pregnancy because it contains a retinoid (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate). Dr Sam's states it is, however, safe to use while breastfeeding, along with the rest of their range. If you're pregnant, pause the serum and choose a retinoid-free alternative, and check with your own healthcare provider.
Yes. Ingredient analysis flags no fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates or fermented ingredients known to feed malassezia, so it's generally considered a safe option for fungal-acne-prone skin. As with any product, patch testing is still wise if you're highly reactive.
This serum already contains a retinoid, so don't layer it with another retinol, retinal or prescription retinoid. It's best used on its own at night; save vitamin C and dedicated AHA/BHA exfoliants for your morning routine or alternate evenings to avoid over-exfoliation and irritation.
It shines on oily, combination and acne-prone skin, and on anyone wanting anti-ageing benefits with less irritation than classic retinol. Dry and sensitive skin can also use it, but should start slowly, buffer with moisturiser, and patch test first.
Many people notice softer, brighter skin within the first couple of weeks. Clearer pores and fewer blemishes typically appear around 4–6 weeks (one skin cycle), with smoother texture, more even tone and softened fine lines building over 8–12 weeks of consistent nightly use.
Use it at night only. Cleanse, pat skin completely dry, then apply the serum (start with ½ a pump every other night, building to one pump nightly). Follow with your moisturiser, and always apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen the next morning.
No — it's formulated and marketed as non-comedogenic, with an estimated comedogenic rating of around 1/5. The oil-free, lightweight texture absorbs quickly and is unlikely to clog pores; the retinoid and azelaic acid actually help keep pores clear.
Aim to use it within about 6 months of opening so the retinoid stays effective. Keep the bottle closed, stored in a cool, dry spot away from direct sunlight, and always check the Period-After-Opening symbol printed on your packaging.
Verdict: Dr Sam's Flawless Nightly Serum is a smart, dermatologist-designed "one-layer" night treatment that combines a gentle next-generation retinoid, a generous 10% niacinamide, azelaic acid and bakuchiol — ideal for breakout-prone skin that also wants to tackle early signs of ageing. It's fragrance-free, non-comedogenic and fungal-acne safe, with a beautifully lightweight feel. The main trade-offs are the premium price for 30ml, the fact it can't be used in pregnancy, and supporting-level (rather than clinical-strength) azelaic acid. For anyone wanting effective, low-fuss actives without irritation, it's an easy nightly upgrade.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 3 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 5 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 5 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 3 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Butylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscositydecreasing Agent
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Niacinamide
Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Smoothing
|
Brightening
Ache-fighting
Anti-Aging
Promotes Wound Healing
Redness
Irritation
Dark Spots
Pores
|
|
| 1 |
Azelaic Acid
Masking, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Buffering
|
Brightening
Ache-fighting
Promotes Wound Healing
Redness
Irritation
Texture
Pores
|
|
| 1 |
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
|
|