Heartleaf 80% Soothing Ampoule
Heartleaf 80% Soothing Ampoule
Product Description
Product overview
A lightweight, fast-absorbing ampoule formulated with 80% Heartleaf (Houttuynia Cordata) Extract to calm, soothe, and deeply hydrate sensitive and irritated skin. This concentrated serum delivers a powerful blend of natural anti-inflammatory ingredients for that coveted Korean glass skin glow.
80% Heartleaf Extract
Highest concentration of soothing Houttuynia Cordata to calm irritation and reduce redness instantly.
Texture & feel
SENSORY80% Heartleaf Extract
Highest concentration of soothing Houttuynia Cordata to calm irritation and reduce redness instantly.
Triple Hydration Complex
Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid, and Betaine work together to lock in moisture and strengthen skin barrier.
Minimal Formula
Only 12 carefully selected ingredients—no unnecessary fillers, fragrances, or irritants.
Glass Skin Ready
Lightweight texture absorbs instantly, perfect for layering under makeup for a luminous, dewy finish.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEFree from retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, and chemical sunscreens. All ingredients are EWG Green grade certified.
Contains no ferments, problematic fatty acids, oils, esters, or polysorbates that feed malassezia yeast.
Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, and dermatologist tested. Ideal for reactive, rosacea-prone, and post-procedure skin.
While generally well-tolerated, always patch test new products. Pregnancy can cause hormonal changes affecting skin sensitivity.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSHouttuynia Cordata (Heartleaf) Extract 80%Star Ingredient
A powerful botanical extract from the "fish mint" plant, rich in flavonoids (quercetin, quercitrin, hyperoside) with clinically proven anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties.
- Anti-Inflammatory: Suppresses NF-κB activity and reduces TNF-α, IL-6 cytokines (Lee et al., 2008)
- Antioxidant: Polyphenolic flavonoids scavenge free radicals and protect against UVB damage (Yin et al., 2013)
- Antibacterial: Effective against acne-causing P. acnes and S. epidermidis bacteria
- Clinical Trial: Reduced visible redness by 4.89% in 2 weeks (OATC Skin Clinical Trials Center, 2022)
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) ~2%Proven
A skin-identical humectant that penetrates deep into skin layers to attract and retain moisture while supporting barrier repair and wound healing.
- Hydration: Binds water molecules to skin, providing long-lasting moisture
- Barrier Repair: Increases lipid synthesis to strengthen the skin barrier
- Anti-Inflammatory: Reduces irritation from other skincare ingredients
Sodium Hyaluronate ~1%Proven
The salt form of hyaluronic acid with smaller molecular weight for better skin penetration. Can hold up to 1000x its weight in water.
- Deep Hydration: Penetrates skin layers to plump and hydrate from within
- Natural Moisturizing Factor: Found naturally in skin; replenishes what's lost with age
Betaine ~4%Proven
A naturally-derived amino acid (trimethylglycine) that acts as both a humectant and osmoprotectant, helping skin retain moisture even in harsh conditions.
- Osmoprotection: Protects cells from environmental stress and dehydration
- Soothing: Calms irritated skin and reduces tightness
12 ingredients
Houttuynia Cordata Extract (80%), Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Panthenol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arginine, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply after toner on slightly damp skin for best absorption. Can be used AM and PM. Pairs beautifully with the ANUA Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner for enhanced calming benefits.
How to use
HOW TO USEDispense 2-3 Drops
Use the dropper to dispense 2-3 drops onto your fingertips or directly onto cleansed, toned face.
Gently Pat & Press
Spread evenly across face and neck, then gently pat and press until fully absorbed. Avoid rubbing.
Follow with Moisturizer
Seal in the ampoule with your favorite moisturizer. In AM, always finish with SPF 30+ sunscreen.
Pro Tip: Glass Skin Hack
Mix 1-2 drops with your foundation for an instant dewy, luminous finish throughout the day.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have sensitive, reactive, or easily irritated skin
- You struggle with redness, rosacea, or post-acne inflammation
- You want a simple, minimal ingredient formula
- You're looking for pregnancy-safe soothing skincare
- You love the dewy, glass skin K-beauty look
- You need a lightweight hydrator for humid climates
- Your skin barrier needs repair after over-exfoliation
Consider alternatives if:
- You need heavy-duty anti-aging with retinoids
- You prefer thick, rich cream textures
- You want dramatic brightening or dark spot correction
- You have very dry skin in cold, harsh climates (may need richer products)
- You're looking for active acne-fighting ingredients like BHA
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight, watery texture absorbs instantly without adding shine or greasiness. Won't clog pores.
Provides excellent hydration boost but may need a richer moisturizer on top, especially in winter.
Balances perfectly across different face zones. Hydrates dry areas without overwhelming oily T-zone.
Specifically formulated for sensitive skin. Fragrance-free with proven calming ingredients. Ideal for rosacea.
Non-comedogenic (0/5), fungal acne safe. Antibacterial heartleaf helps calm existing breakouts and redness.
Results timeline
4-8 WEEKSInstant Hydration & Comfort
Skin feels immediately soothed, hydrated, and plumped. Slight dewy glow appears. Any tightness or discomfort is relieved.
95% noticed immediate hydrationReduced Redness & Irritation
Visible calming of redness and inflammation. Active breakouts begin to look less angry. Skin feels more balanced.
78% noticed calmer skinImproved Skin Barrier & Texture
Clinical trials showed 4.89% reduction in redness. Skin barrier feels stronger. Overall texture appears smoother and healthier.
85% reported healthier-looking skinSustained Calm & Glow
Long-term soothing benefits establish. Skin is less reactive to environmental triggers. Consistent glass skin glow achieved.
82% continued daily useRatings by platform
3K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Extremely soothing for sensitive, reactive skin
- Noticeably reduces redness and irritation
- Lightweight texture perfect for layering
- Fragrance-free and minimal ingredient list
- Pregnancy and fungal acne safe
- Beautiful dewy, glass skin finish
- Absorbs quickly without stickiness
- Works well under makeup
Criticized
- Small 30ml bottle size for the price
- May not be hydrating enough for very dry skin
- Can feel tacky if over-applied
- Glass dropper bottle not travel-friendly
- No dramatic anti-aging or brightening effects
- Results are subtle rather than transformative
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
150ml of pure heartleaf extract at half the price per ml. Single-ingredient formula is even more minimal but may need additional hydrating layers.
100ml for less than half the price. Uses Centella Asiatica instead of Heartleaf—similar soothing benefits with different active compounds.
40ml with 42.4% Centella Extract. Slightly more hydrating texture but contains more ingredients. Good alternative for those who prefer Centella.
30ml with 83% Propolis Extract. Different active (propolis vs heartleaf) but similar soothing and skin-repairing benefits. Not vegan.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. No refrigeration required, but can be stored in skincare fridge for extra cooling sensation.
Frosted glass dropper bottle with pipette applicator for hygienic, precise dispensing.
Yes, 30ml is under TSA 100ml limit. However, glass bottle requires careful packing to prevent breakage.
Frequently asked questions
FAQYes, this ampoule is considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens that are typically avoided during pregnancy. All ingredients are EWG Green grade certified. However, hormonal changes during pregnancy can affect skin sensitivity, so we recommend doing a patch test first.
Yes, this product is fungal acne safe according to multiple ingredient databases including SkinCarisma and Folliculitis Scout. It contains no fermented ingredients, problematic fatty acids (like oleic acid), oils, esters, or polysorbates that can feed malassezia yeast. The formula is specifically designed to be non-comedogenic and won't exacerbate fungal acne.
Yes, this ampoule pairs well with most actives. Its soothing, anti-inflammatory properties can actually help buffer irritation from retinol, AHAs, and BHAs. For best results: use actives first on cleansed skin, wait 15-20 minutes, then apply the ampoule to soothe. For vitamin C, you can layer the ampoule immediately after. If using retinol, consider using the ampoule in the AM and retinol in the PM to minimize potential irritation.
This ampoule is excellent for all skin types but particularly shines for sensitive, reactive, combination, oily, and acne-prone skin. Its lightweight texture won't overwhelm oily skin, while its hydrating ingredients provide moisture without heaviness. It's especially recommended for those with rosacea, eczema-prone skin, or anyone experiencing redness and irritation. Those with very dry skin may want to layer it under a richer moisturizer.
Immediate effects include instant hydration and a soothing sensation. Within 3-7 days, most users notice calmer, less irritated skin. Clinical trials showed a 4.89% reduction in visible redness after 2 weeks of use. For optimal barrier-strengthening and long-term soothing benefits, consistent use for 4-8 weeks is recommended. Results are cumulative—the longer you use it, the more resilient your skin becomes.
Apply after cleansing and toning, before serums and moisturizer. The order is: Cleanser → Toner → ANUA Heartleaf Ampoule → Serum (if using) → Moisturizer → Sunscreen (AM only). For best absorption, apply to slightly damp skin immediately after toner. Use 2-3 drops and gently pat in. Can be used both morning and evening.
No, this ampoule has a comedogenic rating of 0/5, meaning it's highly unlikely to clog pores. The formula is oil-free, silicone-free, and contains no known pore-clogging ingredients. Many users with acne-prone and congestion-prone skin report that it actually helps calm existing breakouts without causing new ones. The antibacterial properties of heartleaf extract may also help reduce acne-causing bacteria.
The product has a PAO (Period After Opening) of 12 months. The 30ml bottle typically lasts 2-3 months with twice-daily use (2-3 drops per application). Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain efficacy. The frosted glass bottle helps protect the formula from light degradation. If you notice any change in color, smell, or texture, discontinue use.
Verdict: The ANUA Heartleaf 80% Soothing Ampoule delivers on its promise as a gentle, effective calming treatment for sensitive and irritated skin. With its impressive 80% heartleaf concentration, minimal 12-ingredient formula, and proven clinical results, it's an excellent choice for anyone seeking Korean glass skin without the irritation. While the 30ml size feels small for daily use and it won't replace your actives, it excels at what it's designed to do: soothe, hydrate, and protect reactive skin. A worthy staple for sensitive skin routines, especially when paired with the brand's matching toner.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Brightening from 1 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 4 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Butylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscositydecreasing Agent
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Betaine
Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning
|
Hydrating
Irritation
Dark Spots
|
|
| 1 |
Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract
Skin Conditioning
|
|