Houttuynia Cordata + Tea Tree Serum
Houttuynia Cordata + Tea Tree Serum
Product Description
A minimalist Korean soothing serum from Mary & May, built on just 8 ingredients and powered by 85% Houttuynia Cordata Extract and 9.7% Tea Tree Extract. This fast-absorbing, fragrance-free serum targets clogged pores, redness and breakouts while calming reactive, troubled skin β without parabens, alcohol or synthetic fragrance.
β¨ Texture & Feel
Pore & Trouble Care
85% Houttuynia Cordata helps detoxify and refine the look of enlarged pores while calming active breakouts.
Antibacterial Support
9.7% Australian Tea Tree extract brings natural antiseptic and purifying properties to blemish-prone skin.
Minimalist Formula
Just 8 ingredients with no fragrance, alcohol or fillers β a "less is more" approach ideal for reactive skin.
Weightless Layering
Watery texture absorbs quickly and layers cleanly under moisturizer, sunscreen or makeup without pilling.
π‘οΈ Safety & Compatibility
Contains no fatty acids, esters, polysorbates or oils that feed malassezia. Suitable for fungal acneβprone skin.
No added fragrance, essential oils, drying alcohol or artificial colorant β a low-irritation formula.
No retinoids, BHA or hydroquinone, but tea tree is debated during pregnancy. Confirm with your OB/GYN first.
Plays well with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Space out from strong AHA/BHA or retinol.
Tea tree can sensitize very reactive skin. Patch test on the inner arm for 24h before facial use.
Not tested on animals and formulated with EWG green-grade ingredients per the brand.
π¬ Ingredient Breakdown
πΏ Houttuynia Cordata Extract 85% Promising
The star of the formula and the brand's signature ingredient. Houttuynia cordata (fish mint / heartleaf) is an East Asian plant traditionally used to detoxify and soothe, and replaces water as the base of this serum at 85%.
- Actives: Rich in polyphenolic flavonoids such as quercetin, quercitrin, hyperoside and rutin.
- Soothing: An in-vitro study found strong anti-allergic effects with potential to help calm conditions like eczema.
- Use case: Antioxidant support that helps soothe redness and visibly refine the appearance of pores.
π¦ Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract 9.7% Proven
Sourced from Australian tea tree, this extract carries the plant's well-known antimicrobial reputation in a gentler, water-soluble form than tea tree essential oil.
- Antibacterial: Tea tree is documented for antimicrobial and anti-acne activity against blemish-causing bacteria.
- Purifying: Manufacturers cite soothing, antiseptic and pore-purifying benefits for the extract form.
- Gentler form: Extract delivers active components at lower, less irritating levels than neat essential oil.
π§ Glycereth-26 & 1,2-Hexanediol Support Proven
The hydration and texture backbone of the formula. Glycereth-26 is a humectant/emollient that draws in moisture, while 1,2-Hexanediol hydrates and doubles as a gentle, low-irritation preservative booster.
- Glycereth-26: Comedogenicity 0, irritancy 0 β lightweight moisture without grease.
- 1,2-Hexanediol: Helps preserve the formula and improves skin feel.
- Result: Keeps a botanical-heavy serum stable, watery and fast to absorb.
π§ͺ Arginine, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin & Caprylyl Glycol Base Proven
The functional supporting cast. Arginine is an amino acid that balances pH, Carbomer thickens the watery base into a light gel, and Ethylhexylglycerin + Caprylyl Glycol act as a mild, paraben-free preservative system that also conditions skin.
- Arginine: Amino acid that helps neutralize the formula to a skin-friendly pH.
- Carbomer: Gives the watery extract a smooth, spreadable gel texture.
- Caprylyl Glycol: Humectant + preservative-booster, well tolerated by sensitive skin.
8 ingredients
Houttuynia Cordata Extract (85%), Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract (9.7%), Glycereth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Arginine, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol.
π Where It Fits in Your Routine
Apply after toner, at the essence/serum step, before heavier creams. Suitable for both AM and PM use; always finish with SPF in the morning.
π How to Use
Cleanse & tone
Start with clean skin and your usual toner so the serum absorbs into a balanced surface.
Dispense a moderate amount
Use a few drops β enough to cover the face and neck without over-saturating.
Pat to absorb
Gently smooth and pat across the face and neck for even, fast absorption.
Seal & protect
Follow with moisturizer to lock in hydration. In the morning, finish with sunscreen.
π€ Who Is It For?
β Perfect for you if:
- You have oily, combination or acne-prone skin
- You deal with congested pores and frequent breakouts
- You have sensitive, easily irritated or redness-prone skin
- You prefer short, fragrance-free ingredient lists
- You want a lightweight layer that won't feel heavy
β Consider alternatives if:
- Your skin is very dry and needs rich, occlusive hydration
- You're specifically chasing anti-aging or brightening actives
- You have a known sensitivity to tea tree
- You're pregnant and want to avoid tea tree entirely
- You want a serum that doubles as your only moisturizer
π― Skin Type Compatibility
Watery, oil-free texture absorbs fast and helps purify pores without adding shine.
Non-comedogenic and fungal-acne safe, with antibacterial tea tree for troubled skin.
Balances oilier zones while soothing without stripping drier areas.
Fragrance-free and minimalist; very reactive skin should patch test for tea tree.
Soothes well but is lightweight β layer a richer moisturizer on top for comfort.
π Results Timeline
Calm, fresh finish
Skin feels instantly refreshed and less tight; the watery texture absorbs without stickiness.
90% noticedReduced redness
Reactive, irritated skin looks calmer and small inflamed bumps begin to settle with daily use.
68% noticedClearer, smoother pores
Fewer new breakouts and a visibly more refined, balanced complexion with consistent AM/PM use.
61% noticedSteady, resilient skin
Troubled skin stays more consistently calm, with maintained pore clarity and fewer flare-ups.
55% noticedβ Ratings by Platform
βοΈ Pros & Cons
β Praised
- Calms irritation, redness and small painful bumps fast
- Very high active concentration for the price
- Lightweight, non-sticky and absorbs quickly
- Short, fragrance-free, fungal-acne safe ingredient list
- Great everyday value and gentle on sensitive skin
β Criticized
- Small 30ml bottle runs out quickly
- Natural tea tree note isn't truly "scent-free" for everyone
- Greenish-yellow tint can look off-putting at first
- Too light to be a standalone moisturizer for dry skin
- Tea tree may not suit pregnancy or very reactive skin
π° Budget-Friendly Alternatives (Dupes)
A near-single-ingredient houttuynia extract at a lower price and bigger size. No tea tree, so less of the antibacterial blemish angle, but excellent value for soothing.
Also houttuynia-led and soothing, with added hydrators like hyaluronic acid. Slightly richer and more hydrating, with no tea tree.
Centella instead of houttuynia for soothing reactive skin. Larger bottle and great for redness, but doesn't target acne bacteria the way tea tree does.
π Comparison with Competitors
Mary & May Houttuynia + Tea Tree Serum
~$15SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule
~$20Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner
~$20Purito Centella Unscented Serum
~$19π¦ Storage & Shelf Life
12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight; keep the cap closed.
Tinted glass bottle with dropper, in eco-friendly recycled paper carton.
Yes β 30ml is well under the 100ml carry-on liquid limit.
β Frequently Asked Questions
The formula contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone or chemical sunscreens, which is reassuring. However, tea tree is sometimes flagged for caution during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Because it makes up 9.7% of this serum, we recommend confirming with your OB/GYN or dermatologist before use.
Yes. The 8-ingredient formula has no fatty acids, esters, oils, polysorbates or fermented ingredients that typically feed malassezia. Houttuynia and tea tree are botanicals, and the supporting ingredients (glycereth-26, 1,2-hexanediol, arginine, carbomer, caprylyl glycol) are generally considered fungal-acne safe.
Yes, but space them out. This is a gentle soothing serum, so it layers well alongside hydrating actives like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid. With stronger actives such as retinol, vitamin C or AHA/BHA, alternate them (one AM, one PM, or on different days) to avoid stacking too much potential irritation at once.
It's best for oily, combination, acne-prone and sensitive or troubled skin that struggles with redness, congestion and breakouts. Dry skin can use it too but should layer a richer moisturizer on top, as the serum itself is lightweight.
Many users feel an immediate calming, refreshed effect. Visible reduction in redness and small bumps often appears within 1β2 weeks, with clearer pores and fewer breakouts typically developing over 4β6 weeks of consistent daily use. Results vary by skin type.
Use it at the serum/essence step β after cleansing and toner, and before heavier moisturizer. It can be applied morning and/or evening. In the morning, always finish with sunscreen as the final step.
No. It scores about 1 out of 5 on the comedogenic scale. The formula is oil-free and lightweight, and reviewers consistently describe it as non-clogging, making it a strong choice for acne-prone and congested skin.
Roughly 12 months after opening (12M PAO). Store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and keep the dropper sealed. Because it relies on a minimal, gentle preservative system, avoid contaminating the dropper with dirty fingers.
Verdict: The Mary & May Houttuynia Cordata + Tea Tree Serum is a standout minimalist soothing serum that punches well above its price. With 85% houttuynia and 9.7% tea tree in just 8 fragrance-free, fungal-acne-safe ingredients, it's an excellent everyday pick for oily, combination and troubled skin that wants to calm redness and care for pores. The main trade-offs are the small 30ml size, a faint natural tea tree note, and a lightweight finish that dry skin will want to layer over. For sensitive, blemish-prone skin chasing clean, effective value, it's an easy recommendation β just patch test for tea tree and check with a doctor if pregnant.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skinβs own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging Β«promisesΒ» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Promotes Wound Healing from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 |
Melaleuca Cajaputi Extract
Tonic
|
|
|
| 1 |
Glycereth-26
Solvent, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
|
|
|
| 1 |
1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Arginine
Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning
|
Promotes Wound Healing
|
|
| 1 |
Carbomer
Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
|
|