Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum
Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum
Product Description
Product overview
A potent anti-aging serum combining 0.1% pure retinol, 0.3% retinyl palmitate, and 0.6% bakuchiol for comprehensive well-aging benefits. Enhanced with 5 peptides, 5 ceramides, and TECA (Centella) to reduce fine lines while strengthening the skin barrier.
Triple Retinoid Complex
Combines 0.1% pure retinol, 0.3% retinyl palmitate, and 0.6% bakuchiol for effective yet gentle anti-aging action.
Texture & feel
SENSORYTriple Retinoid Complex
Combines 0.1% pure retinol, 0.3% retinyl palmitate, and 0.6% bakuchiol for effective yet gentle anti-aging action.
5 Ceramide Barrier Support
Five types of ceramides (NP, NS, AS, AP, EOP) strengthen the moisture barrier to prevent irritation and dryness.
5 Peptide Complex
Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 for firming.
TECA (Centella)
Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, and Asiatic Acid help calm inflammation and support skin healing.
Safety & compatibility
SAFENot recommended. Contains retinol and retinyl palmitate which are vitamin A derivatives. Avoid during pregnancy and breastfeeding due to potential risks.
Not fungal acne safe. Contains Polysorbate 20 and Stearic Acid which may feed Malassezia yeast and trigger breakouts.
Formulated with bakuchiol to reduce irritation. Ceramides and TECA help soothe and protect sensitive skin during retinol use.
Retinol increases photosensitivity. Apply only at night and always use SPF 30+ sunscreen the following day.
Start with once every 3-4 days for the first 2 weeks, then gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
Low comedogenic rating of 1/5. Lightweight formula absorbs quickly without clogging pores.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSRetinol 0.1%Proven
Gold-standard anti-aging ingredient. Pure retinol stimulates collagen production, accelerates cell turnover, and reduces fine lines and wrinkles at the cellular level.
- Mechanism: Converts to retinoic acid in skin, activating retinoid receptors to boost collagen synthesis
- Studies: Proven to reduce wrinkles, improve skin texture, and fade hyperpigmentation in numerous clinical trials
- Concentration: 0.1% is an effective starting concentration for visible results with minimal irritation
Retinyl Palmitate 0.3%Proven
A gentle vitamin A ester that converts to retinol, then to retinoic acid. Provides anti-aging benefits with less irritation than pure retinol.
- Conversion: Retinyl Palmitate → Retinol → Retinal → Retinoic Acid (slower, gentler conversion)
- Benefits: Improves skin texture, supports cell turnover, and enhances skin barrier function
- Stability: More stable than pure retinol, helps extend product shelf life
Bakuchiol 0.6%Proven
A plant-derived retinol alternative from Psoralea Corylifolia seeds. Provides similar anti-aging benefits without the irritation or photosensitivity.
- Clinical Study: 2018 study showed 0.5% bakuchiol comparable to 0.5% retinol for reducing wrinkles and pigmentation after 12 weeks
- Synergy: Helps stabilize retinol and enhances its effectiveness when used together
- Anti-Acne: Shows 57% reduction in acne after 6 weeks due to antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties
Niacinamide HighProven
Multi-functional vitamin B3 that brightens skin, minimizes pores, strengthens the skin barrier, and regulates sebum production.
- Barrier Support: Increases ceramide production, reinforcing the skin's natural moisture barrier
- Brightening: Inhibits melanosome transfer to reduce hyperpigmentation and dark spots
- Sebum Control: Regulates oil production without over-drying the skin
5 Ceramides Complex BlendProven
Five types of ceramides (NP, NS, AS, AP, EOP) that mimic the skin's natural lipid barrier to lock in moisture and protect against irritation.
- Barrier Repair: Ceramides make up 50% of the skin's lipid barrier—supplementing them strengthens skin resilience
- Retinol Support: Helps counteract potential dryness and irritation from retinol use
- Hydration: Prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) to maintain optimal skin hydration
5 Peptides Complex BlendPromising
A sophisticated blend of signal and carrier peptides that support collagen production and skin firmness.
- Copper Tripeptide-1: Promotes wound healing and collagen synthesis
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): Helps relax facial muscles to reduce expression lines
- Palmitoyl Peptides: Signal peptides that stimulate collagen and elastin production
42 ingredients
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Dibutyl Adipate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bakuchiol (0.6%), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Betaine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Retinyl Palmitate (0.3%), Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopherol, Retinol (0.1%), Allantoin, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Adenosine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Polydextrose, Ceramide NP, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Ceramide NS, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Ferulic Acid, Ceramide AS, Ceramide AP, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide EOP
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply at night only. Wait 20-30 minutes before applying heavier products. Always use SPF 30+ the next morning.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Dry
Start with clean, completely dry skin. Wait 5-10 minutes after cleansing as damp skin can increase retinol irritation.
Apply 2-3 Drops
Dispense 2-3 drops onto fingertips and gently pat onto face. Avoid the eye area and corners of mouth.
Wait & Moisturize
Allow 20-30 minutes for absorption, then follow with a hydrating moisturizer to seal in benefits.
Build Tolerance
Week 1-2: Use once every 3-4 days. Week 3-4: Every other day. Week 5+: Nightly as tolerated.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You want to address fine lines and wrinkles
- You're new to retinol and want a gentle introduction
- You have combination or oily skin
- You want anti-aging without harsh irritation
- You prefer fragrance-free, clean formulations
- You want multi-functional benefits (anti-aging + barrier support)
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding
- You have fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis)
- You're already using prescription retinoids
- You want immediate dramatic results (try prescription strength)
- You have very dry, compromised skin barrier
- You cannot commit to daily sunscreen use
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight milky texture absorbs quickly without adding shine. Niacinamide helps regulate sebum production.
Ceramides provide barrier support, but may need a richer moisturizer on top. Start slowly to avoid flaking.
Balances well across different face zones. Light enough for T-zone, hydrating enough for dry areas.
Bakuchiol and ceramides help buffer irritation. Start very slowly and patch test first. Many sensitive skin users report good tolerance.
Retinol helps with cell turnover and acne. Low comedogenic rating. Not suitable for fungal acne.
Results timeline
WEEK 12+Adjustment Period
Skin may experience mild tingling, slight dryness, or purging. This is normal as your skin adjusts to retinol. Some users see improved glow.
60% noticed initial glowTexture Improvement
Skin begins to feel smoother as cell turnover increases. Fine lines may start to appear softer. Purging typically subsides.
70% noticed smoother textureVisible Anti-Aging Benefits
Noticeable reduction in fine lines. Skin tone becomes more even. Pores may appear minimized. Increased firmness.
80% noticed wrinkle reductionOptimal Results
Full anti-aging benefits visible. Significant improvement in wrinkles, texture, and overall skin radiance. Results continue to improve with consistent use.
85% highly satisfiedRatings by platform
1K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Gentle formula suitable for retinol beginners
- Triple retinoid approach (retinol + retinyl palmitate + bakuchiol)
- Comprehensive formula with peptides and ceramides
- Fragrance-free and clean ingredient list
- No harsh irritation for most users
- Lightweight, fast-absorbing texture
- Visible results for fine lines and texture
- Affordable K-beauty price point
Criticized
- Small bottle size (20ml) may not last long
- Not suitable for pregnancy/breastfeeding
- Not fungal acne safe
- May cause initial purging or adjustment period
- Color may change over time (normal for retinol)
- Lower retinol concentration than some competitors
- Results take 8-12 weeks to fully show
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Higher retinol concentration (0.5%) but simpler formula without peptides or ceramides. More potential for irritation. Great for experienced retinol users on a budget.
Same 0.1% retinol concentration. Cream texture vs serum. Contains hyaluronic acid but fewer peptides. Good alternative for dry skin types.
Contains retinol with squalane. Simpler formula without bakuchiol or peptide complex. Good entry-level option for beginners.
Similar retinol + bakuchiol concept but higher concentration. More luxurious formula with additional antioxidants. Premium option for those wanting stronger results.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
6 MONTHS6 months after opening. Retinol degrades with exposure to air and light.
Store in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight. Refrigeration can extend potency. Keep tightly sealed.
Opaque glass dropper bottle to protect from light degradation. Yellow/orange color is normal and may deepen over time.
Yes, 20ml is under 100ml TSA limit. Pack in checked luggage if possible to avoid temperature fluctuations.
Frequently asked questions
FAQNo, this product is NOT safe for pregnancy or breastfeeding. It contains retinol (0.1%) and retinyl palmitate (0.3%), which are vitamin A derivatives. High levels of vitamin A during pregnancy can cause birth defects. Healthcare providers recommend avoiding all retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Consider bakuchiol-only products as a pregnancy-safe alternative for anti-aging benefits.
No, this product is NOT fungal acne safe. It contains Polysorbate 20 and Stearic Acid, which are known triggers for malassezia folliculitis. These ingredients can feed the yeast responsible for fungal acne and worsen breakouts. If you have fungal acne, look for the Isntree Ultra-Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum instead, which is fungal acne safe.
This product already contains retinol, so do not layer additional retinol products. For other actives: Vitamin C can be used in the morning while using this retinol at night. AHAs and BHAs should be used on alternate nights, not the same night as retinol, to avoid over-exfoliation and irritation. Once your skin is fully adjusted to retinol (after 2-3 months), you may cautiously introduce acids on alternate evenings.
This serum is excellent for oily, combination, and normal skin types due to its lightweight, fast-absorbing milky texture. It's also good for dry and sensitive skin thanks to the ceramide and bakuchiol support, though dry skin may need an extra moisturizer. Best for those concerned with fine lines, wrinkles, uneven texture, and early signs of aging. Not recommended for those with fungal acne or during pregnancy/breastfeeding.
Results timeline varies: Week 1-2: Skin adjusts, possible mild irritation or purging. Week 3-4: Smoother texture begins to show. Week 6-8: Visible improvement in fine lines, tone, and radiance. Week 12+: Optimal anti-aging results. Retinol requires consistent use over several months for full benefits. Don't give up if you don't see immediate results—patience is key with retinol!
Apply at NIGHT ONLY after cleansing and toning, on completely dry skin. Wait 20-30 minutes, then follow with moisturizer. The routine order is: Cleanser → Toner → Retinol Serum (this product) → Moisturizer. In the morning, always apply SPF 30+ sunscreen as retinol increases sun sensitivity. Never use during the day.
This product has a low comedogenic rating of 1/5. The lightweight, milky formula is designed to absorb quickly without leaving residue. Retinol actually helps unclog pores by increasing cell turnover. However, some users may experience initial purging (temporary breakouts) as the retinol brings existing congestion to the surface. This usually subsides within 2-4 weeks.
Use within 6 months after opening. Retinol is unstable and degrades when exposed to air, light, and heat. Signs of degradation include darkening color or reduced efficacy. To maximize shelf life: store in a cool, dark place (refrigeration is ideal), keep tightly sealed, and avoid leaving open. The product's yellow/orange tint may naturally deepen over time, which is normal and doesn't necessarily indicate spoilage.
Verdict: Isntree Hyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum is an excellent choice for retinol beginners and those seeking a gentle yet effective anti-aging treatment. The innovative triple retinoid approach (retinol + retinyl palmitate + bakuchiol) delivers results while minimizing irritation. The addition of 5 peptides and 5 ceramides sets it apart from basic retinol serums, providing comprehensive skin support. While not suitable for pregnancy or fungal acne, it offers outstanding value for most skin types looking to address fine lines, texture, and early aging signs. A well-formulated K-beauty gem at an affordable price point.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 17 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 5 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 10 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 3 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Butylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscositydecreasing Agent
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Niacinamide
Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Smoothing
|
Brightening
Ache-fighting
Anti-Aging
Promotes Wound Healing
Redness
Irritation
Dark Spots
Pores
|
|
| 0 |
Dibutyl Adipate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent
|
|