Mugwort Zero Film Cleansing Oil
Mugwort Zero Film Cleansing Oil
Product Description
Product overview
A lightweight, vegan K-beauty cleansing oil that effortlessly melts away makeup, SPF, blackheads, and sebum — without leaving any oily film behind. Infused with Mugwort (Artemisia Capillaris) and Centella Asiatica Extract to actively soothe irritation and reinforce the skin barrier while you cleanse. Formulated for sensitive and acne-prone skin by Korean brand Orien.
Zero Film Technology
The self-emulsifying Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate surfactant allows the oil to instantly turn milky on contact with water, rinsing away completely without any greasy or filmy after-feel.
Texture & feel
SENSORYZero Film Technology
The self-emulsifying Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate surfactant allows the oil to instantly turn milky on contact with water, rinsing away completely without any greasy or filmy after-feel.
Mugwort Soothing Complex
Artemisia Capillaris (Mugwort) Extract delivers proven anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity, calming redness and irritation during the cleansing process rather than aggravating it.
Centella Asiatica Barrier Repair
Rich in Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, and Asiatic Acid, Centella helps reinforce the skin's natural barrier and accelerate recovery from micro-irritation and acne scarring.
Moisture-Locking Plant Oils
A trio of non-comedogenic botanical oils — Argan, Sunflower, and Jojoba — delivers essential fatty acids and antioxidants to replenish moisture without clogging pores.
Vegan & Hypoallergenic
100% vegan formula, free from animal-derived ingredients. Passed non-irritation and hypoallergenic testing, making it appropriate for the most reactive and sensitive skin types.
Blackhead & Sebum Dissolving
Ethylhexyl Palmitate and Cetyl Ethylhexanoate act as oil-soluble emollients that effectively dissolve sebum plugs and oxidized blackheads on contact, making removal effortless.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEUse with caution. This product contains Parfum (fragrance), which is generally advised against during pregnancy due to potential sensitization. No retinoids, salicylic acid, or hydroquinone are present. Consult your OB-GYN before use.
Not considered fungal acne safe. Ethylhexyl Palmitate is a fatty acid ester that can feed Malassezia yeast and potentially trigger fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis). Those prone to FA should choose the Beplain Mung Bean Cleansing Oil instead.
Overall low comedogenic risk. Jojoba Oil (0/5), Argan Oil (0/5), and Sunflower Seed Oil (0/5) are all non-comedogenic. Ethylhexyl Palmitate scores 2/5 — considered low risk. Not formally comedogenic-tested, but formula is well-tolerated by most acne-prone skin.
Free from harsh alcohols, parabens, silicones, sulfates, and common allergens. Dermatologist tested and passed non-irritation testing. Contains soothing Centella and Mugwort to actively reduce irritation during cleansing.
Fully compatible with retinol, vitamin C, AHAs, and BHAs. As a first-cleanse step (oil cleanser used before a water-based cleanser), it is rinsed off before actives are applied and will not interfere with their efficacy.
Contains Parfum (fragrance), which may cause sensitivity in very fragrance-reactive individuals. The scent is described as a mild herbal-floral note. If you have severe fragrance allergies, patch test on your inner arm before full facial use.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSEthylhexyl Palmitate ~40–45%Primary Emollient
The base carrier oil of this formula. Ethylhexyl Palmitate (also called Octyl Palmitate) is a fatty acid ester derived from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid. It is a medium-spreading, lightweight emollient that gives the oil its silky, non-greasy texture and excellent slip for dissolving makeup and sebum without tugging at the skin.
- Function: Primary emollient, solvent, texture enhancer — dissolves oil-soluble impurities, sunscreen filters, and pigment-based makeup
- Skin Feel: Soft, lightweight, non-tacky — often used as a mineral oil alternative
- FA Safety: Not fungal acne safe — high fatty acid content may feed Malassezia yeast
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate ~15–20%Proven
An odorless, colorless emollient ester formed from cetyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid. It imparts a distinctly velvety, silky finish to the skin without any greasy or oily residue. This is key to the "zero film" sensory experience the product is named for.
- Function: Emollient, skin conditioner, texture enhancer
- Comedogenic: Rated 1/5 — very low risk
- Benefit: Helps trap moisture in the skin's upper layers after rinsing
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate ~5–10%Key Emulsifier
A light yellow, water-loving self-emulsifying surfactant — the ingredient responsible for the signature "zero film" rinse-off. It is a tetraester of oleic acid and polyethylene glycol ether of sorbitol, widely used in K-beauty oil cleansers to allow the oil formula to interact with water and emulsify instantly, rinsing away all traces of makeup and oil without a soapy cleanser.
- Function: Self-emulsifying surfactant — turns the oil milky white when water is added
- Research: A study on pumpkin oil formulations containing Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate found it hydrating with no irritation potential
- Benefit: Ensures complete rinse-off, leaving no greasy film on skin
Artemisia Capillaris Extract (Mugwort) ~1–3%Proven
The hero botanical of the Orien brand. Mugwort (Artemisia Capillaris) is a medicinal herb with centuries of use in East Asian medicine. In skincare, it provides potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial activity. It is particularly valued for calming redness, soothing acne flare-ups, and reducing skin sensitivity.
- Key Compounds: Artabsin, scopoletin, chlorogenic acid — proven antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actives
- Research: Studies show Artemisia extracts inhibit pro-inflammatory cytokines including IL-6 and TNF-α
- Skin Benefit: Reduces redness, calms post-acne irritation, supports skin barrier function
Centella Asiatica Extract ~1–2%Proven
One of the most clinically validated botanical ingredients in modern skincare. Centella Asiatica (Cica) is native to Southeast Asia and has been used for wound healing for centuries. It contains four key bioactives — Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassoside, and Madecassic Acid — that work synergistically to repair skin barrier, stimulate collagen synthesis, and reduce inflammation.
- Asiaticoside & Madecassoside: Stimulate collagen type I and III synthesis, aiding scar healing
- Asiatic Acid: Inhibits hyaluronidase activity, helping maintain skin hydration
- Anti-Inflammatory: Suppresses NF-κB pathway — clinically reduces skin redness and irritation
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil (Argan Oil) ~0.5–1%Proven
Moroccan argan oil, cold-pressed from the kernels of the Argania Spinosa tree. Rich in oleic acid (45%), linoleic acid (35%), and vitamin E (tocopherols), argan oil is prized for its ability to deeply nourish the skin, combat oxidative stress, and improve elasticity. With a comedogenic rating of 0/5, it is safe for all skin types.
- Vitamin E Content: One of the richest plant sources of tocopherols — potent free radical scavenging
- Linoleic Acid: Essential fatty acid that supports a healthy skin barrier and reduces transepidermal water loss
- Comedogenic Rating: 0/5 — will not clog pores
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (Sunflower Oil) ~0.5–1%Proven
Cold-pressed sunflower seed oil is a lightweight emollient exceptionally high in linoleic acid (60–70%), the essential fatty acid that is often depleted in acne-prone skin. Replenishing linoleic acid via topical application has been clinically shown to reduce comedone formation and support a healthy skin barrier.
- Linoleic Acid: Studies show topical linoleic acid reduces microcomedone size by ~25% over 1 month
- Vitamin E: Provides antioxidant protection against UV-induced free radical damage
- Comedogenic Rating: 0/5 — highly suitable for acne-prone skin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (Jojoba Oil) ~0.5–1%Proven
Technically a liquid wax rather than an oil, jojoba is structurally the closest plant-derived ingredient to the skin's own sebum. This makes it exceptionally compatible with all skin types, including oily and acne-prone. It moisturizes without contributing to excess oil and has demonstrated anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties.
- Sebum-Mimicking: Composed primarily of wax esters (97%) — identical to the structure of human skin sebum
- Anti-Inflammatory: Contains Simmondsins and myristic acid — shown to inhibit COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes
- Comedogenic Rating: 0/5 — non-comedogenic
Caprylyl Glycol ~0.5%Multifunctional
A multifunctional ingredient derived from caprylic acid (a fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm kernel oil). Caprylyl Glycol acts simultaneously as a skin conditioning emollient, a humectant that attracts water, and a preservative booster that extends the formula's shelf life by enhancing the effectiveness of other preservatives.
- Function: Emollient, humectant, preservative booster
- Safety: Considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing at cosmetic use levels
- Benefit: Contributes to the formula's smooth, non-sticky after-feel
Artemia Extract ~0.1–0.5%Promising
Derived from Artemia salina, a species of brine shrimp. Artemia Extract is a relatively new cosmetic active known for its exceptional resilience in extreme salt environments. It has been studied for its ability to protect skin cells from environmental stress, reduce oxidative damage, and support skin barrier function through its unique osmoprotective proteins and amino acids.
- Osmoprotective Proteins: Help skin cells maintain integrity under environmental stress conditions
- Antioxidant: Demonstrated free radical scavenging activity in in-vitro studies
- Barrier Support: Shown to upregulate key barrier proteins including filaggrin
11 ingredients
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Water, Parfum, Caprylyl Glycol, Artemia Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse as the first step of your double-cleanse routine — PM only. Always follow with a water-based cleanser (such as the Orien Mugwort Zero Film Cleansing Foam) to remove emulsified oil and any remaining residue.
How to use
HOW TO USEStart on Dry Face
Dispense 2–3 pumps of cleansing oil into dry hands. Apply directly to a completely dry face — do not wet your face first, as water will immediately trigger emulsification and reduce cleansing efficacy.
Massage in Circular Motions
Gently massage onto your face using circular motions for 30–60 seconds, focusing on areas with heavy makeup, SPF, or visible blackheads (nose, chin, T-zone). The oil will dissolve makeup and sebum on contact.
Emulsify with Water
With hands still on your face, introduce a small amount of lukewarm water. The oil will instantly turn milky white — this is the emulsification process that lifts all impurities off the skin. Continue massaging for 15–20 seconds.
Rinse Thoroughly
Rinse with lukewarm water until all traces of the milky emulsion are removed. Avoid hot water, which can strip the skin. Gently pat dry with a clean towel — do not rub.
Follow with Water-Based Cleanser
For a complete double-cleanse (recommended PM), follow immediately with a gentle water-based cleanser such as the Orien Mugwort Zero Film Cleansing Foam to remove any emulsified residue and ensure pores are thoroughly clean.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You wear daily SPF, foundation, or long-wear makeup
- You have sensitive, reactive, or acne-prone skin
- You hate the greasy film left by traditional cleansing oils
- You want a cleanse that soothes rather than strips
- You're building a K-beauty double-cleanse routine
- You prefer vegan and cruelty-free skincare
- You deal with blackheads or sebaceous filaments
Consider alternatives if:
- You are confirmed prone to Malassezia (fungal) acne
- You are pregnant and prefer to avoid all fragrance
- You have a known shellfish allergy (Artemia Extract)
- You prefer a completely fragrance-free cleanser
- You only do a single-cleanse routine (use a cleansing balm instead)
- You want clinical-level exfoliation in your cleanser
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight dry-oil texture won't add shine. Effectively dissolves excess sebum and unclogs pores without heavy residue. Rinses completely clean.
Plant oils (Argan, Jojoba, Sunflower) add nourishing fatty acids during cleansing. Follow with a richer moisturizer for best results in cooler months.
Ideal balance — effectively manages oily T-zone without over-stripping drier cheek areas. The non-comedogenic oils keep pores clear throughout.
Dermatologist tested, hypoallergenic, and free from common irritants. Mugwort and Centella actively reduce sensitivity. Mild fragrance — patch test if very reactive.
Great for hormonal or inflammatory acne — Centella and Mugwort actively calm breakouts. Note: not fungal acne safe due to Ethylhexyl Palmitate. Comedogenic rating 2/5.
Results timeline
MONTH 2+Immediate Makeup Removal & Clean Feel
Even heavy SPF, waterproof mascara, and long-wear foundation emulsify completely on first use. Skin feels clean, soft, and calm immediately after rinsing — no tight or stripped sensation.
98% noticed cleaner skin from day oneReduced Redness & Irritation
Mugwort and Centella Asiatica begin visibly reducing post-cleanse redness and sensitivity. Skin feels more resilient throughout the day. Blackheads and sebaceous filaments appear smaller and less pronounced.
~75% noticed calmer, less reactive skinClearer Pores & Improved Texture
Consistent oil cleansing removes oxidized sebum trapped in pores, visibly reducing blackhead density. Skin texture becomes smoother and more even as the barrier strengthens with Centella and fatty acid support.
~65% reported visibly smaller poresBarrier Strengthening & Long-Term Balance
Long-term use of non-comedogenic plant oils (Argan, Jojoba, Sunflower) alongside Centella Asiatica progressively strengthens the skin barrier, reducing sensitivity to environmental stressors and improving overall skin balance.
~80% reported improved overall skin conditionRatings by platform
650+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Genuinely leaves zero oily film after rinsing
- Removes waterproof makeup and SPF50+ in one step
- Mugwort and Centella visibly calm redness and irritation
- Extremely lightweight — does not feel heavy on skin
- Vegan, cruelty-free, and free from harsh chemicals
- Dermatologist tested and hypoallergenic certified
- Great value — 200ml lasts 3–4 months with daily use
- Viral on TikTok for blackhead and sebaceous filament removal
- Pleasant mild herbal-floral scent (not overpowering)
Criticized
- Not fungal acne (Malassezia) safe
- Contains Parfum — not ideal for the most fragrance-sensitive
- No travel-size version available (200ml only)
- Requires double-cleansing step for full efficacy
- Contains Artemia Extract (shellfish-derived) — not suitable for severe shellfish allergies
- Relatively new brand — less global retail availability than Anua or SKIN1004
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Shares the same Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate base formula. Fragrance-free and fungal acne safe — a better choice for FA-prone users. Lacks the mugwort soothing complex but is non-comedogenic tested. Very similar zero-film rinse experience.
Shares Cetyl Ethylhexanoate and Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate. Centella Asiatica is the hero ingredient in both. SKIN1004 version uses Ethylhexyl Stearate instead of Ethylhexyl Palmitate as the base — different fatty acid profile. Contains essential oils (Bergamot, Rose, Geranium) so not FA safe either. Both have similar clean rinse-off feel.
The most popular K-beauty cleansing oil on TikTok. Uses Heartleaf extract instead of Mugwort as the key soothing botanical. Broader oil blend including Grapeseed and Macadamia. Richer texture than Orien — slightly more nourishing but also more emollient. Both deliver excellent double-cleanse results for sensitive and acne-prone skin.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening. Check the PAO symbol (open jar icon) on your bottle for the exact timeframe printed by the manufacturer.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. Avoid storing in a steamy bathroom as heat and humidity can degrade the plant-derived oils and botanical extracts over time.
200ml round plastic bottle with pump dispenser. The pump format is hygienic (no finger dipping), allows precise dosage control, and helps extend the shelf life by minimizing air exposure to the formula.
The 200ml format exceeds the 100ml airline carry-on liquid limit. Not suitable as cabin baggage unless decanted into a travel-size bottle. Perfectly fine for checked luggage or travel by car/train.
Frequently asked questions
FAQUse with caution during pregnancy and breastfeeding. The formula does not contain any of the most commonly restricted pregnancy ingredients — no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical UV filters. However, it does contain Parfum (fragrance), which many dermatologists and obstetricians recommend avoiding during pregnancy as a precautionary measure due to the potential for sensitization. The Artemia Extract (derived from brine shrimp) is an unusual ingredient and its pregnancy safety has not been specifically studied. If you are pregnant or nursing, consult your OB-GYN or midwife before incorporating this into your routine. Safer fragrance-free alternatives for pregnant users include the Beplain Mung Bean Cleansing Oil.
No — this product is not considered fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. The primary ingredient, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, is a fatty acid ester with a high palmitic acid content that can potentially feed Malassezia yeast and trigger or worsen fungal acne breakouts in susceptible individuals. If you are confirmed to be prone to Malassezia folliculitis, we recommend choosing the Beplain Mung Bean Cleansing Oil instead, which uses a different ester profile and is widely regarded as FA-safe. Note that standard inflammatory acne (Propionibacterium acnes) is different from fungal acne, and this product works well for the former.
Yes — this cleansing oil is fully compatible with all active ingredients including retinol, vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid or derivatives), AHAs (glycolic, lactic acid), and BHAs (salicylic acid). Because it functions as the first step of a double-cleanse (PM routine), it is completely rinsed off the skin before any actives are applied in later steps. There is no risk of interaction, dilution of actives, or reduced efficacy. In fact, oil cleansing is often recommended as a gentle first step precisely because it removes sunscreen and makeup without compromising the pH-sensitive environment that actives require.
This cleansing oil is suitable for all skin types except those confirmed prone to Malassezia (fungal) acne. It is particularly well-suited for sensitive, combination, and oily skin types due to its lightweight dry-oil texture, fast emulsification, and non-comedogenic plant oil base (Argan 0/5, Jojoba 0/5, Sunflower 0/5). The Mugwort and Centella Asiatica make it especially beneficial for reactive, redness-prone, or post-acne skin. Dry skin types can use it comfortably but may benefit from a heavier moisturizer afterward to compensate for the thorough cleansing action.
Cleansing effectiveness — thorough makeup, SPF, and sebum removal — is noticeable from the very first use. Improvement in skin redness, sensitivity, and post-cleanse tightness is typically observed within 1–2 weeks of consistent daily use. Visible reduction in blackheads, sebaceous filaments, and pore congestion is generally reported after 3–4 weeks of regular double-cleansing. Long-term barrier strengthening and overall improvements in skin texture and clarity become apparent after 6–8 weeks of continued use. Consistency with the complete double-cleanse routine (oil cleanser followed by water-based cleanser) significantly enhances and accelerates these results.
This product is always used as the very first step in your evening (PM) skincare routine, before any other cleansers, toners, serums, or moisturizers. The correct placement is: (1) Oil Cleanser — this product, (2) Water-Based Cleanser (e.g. Orien Mugwort Zero Film Cleansing Foam), (3) Toner / Essence, (4) Serums and Treatments, (5) Eye Cream, (6) Moisturizer. This is the K-beauty double-cleanse method, and it ensures all oil-soluble impurities (SPF, makeup, sebum) are removed first, allowing your water-based cleanser to then remove water-soluble impurities (sweat, pollution) without overworking the skin. Not recommended for use in the morning unless you have very heavy overnight product application.
This product has an overall comedogenic rating of approximately 2/5, which is considered low risk. The three botanical oils in the formula — Argan Oil (0/5), Sunflower Seed Oil (0/5), and Jojoba Oil (0/5) — are all non-comedogenic. Ethylhexyl Palmitate scores 2/5, which is still considered low risk for most skin types. Importantly, because this is a rinse-off oil cleanser rather than a leave-on product, even ingredients with slightly higher comedogenic ratings present very minimal real-world risk of clogging pores, as they are thoroughly emulsified and rinsed away during use. The product has not undergone formal comedogenic testing, but user reports of pore-clogging issues are rare when the product is properly rinsed off.
The recommended period after opening (PAO) is 12 months. With typical daily use of 2–3 pumps per cleanse, the 200ml bottle will generally last 3–4 months, well within the PAO window. To maximize shelf life, store the bottle with the pump cap closed in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Avoid leaving it in a hot, steamy bathroom. If the oil changes color significantly, develops an unusual odor, or the texture changes noticeably, discontinue use — these are signs of oxidation of the plant oils in the formula.
Verdict: The Orien Mugwort Zero Film Cleansing Oil is one of the standout K-beauty cleansing oils of 2024–2025 — and the viral attention it has earned is well-deserved. With a refreshingly minimal 11-ingredient formula built around clinically proven Mugwort and Centella Asiatica extracts, it delivers a genuinely effective, soothing double-cleanse experience that rivals more established competitors like Anua and SKIN1004 at a competitive price point. The "zero film" performance is real — it emulsifies quickly and rinses completely clean. The three-oil blend of Argan, Jojoba, and Sunflower seed oil is intelligently chosen for maximum nourishment with zero comedogenic risk. The only notable drawbacks are the presence of Parfum (limiting its appeal to strictly fragrance-free devotees) and the Ethylhexyl Palmitate base that makes it unsuitable for confirmed Malassezia-prone users. For everyone else — particularly those with sensitive, combination, or acne-prone skin who struggle to find a cleansing oil that soothes as much as it cleanses — this is an exceptional choice.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 1 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 2 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Emollient, Fragrance
|
|
|
| 1 |
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Skin Conditioning, Emolient
|
Ache-fighting
|
|
| 1 |
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
Surfactant, Emulsifying
|
|
|
| 0 |
Parfum
Masking, Perfuming
|
|
|
| 1 |
Caprylyl Glycol
Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant, Hair Conditioning
|
|