Nosca9 Trouble Serum
Nosca9 Trouble Serum
Product Description
Product overview
Fation Nosca9 Trouble Serum is a fast-absorbing K-beauty soothing serum from Korean dermatological brand Fation, formulated with a Heparin RX Complex, Artemisia Princeps (mugwort) extract, 3% Panthenol, and Centella Asiatica to calm active blemishes, reduce redness, and accelerate skin recovery. Featuring proprietary Rapid-some technology for deep, rapid absorption, this lightweight gel-essence is fragrance-free, alcohol-free, and tested non-irritating, making it the #1 best-selling soothing serum at Korea's Olive Young.
Heparin RX Complex
Proprietary blend featuring Sodium Heparin to calm inflammation at its source and accelerate visible recovery from blemishes.
Texture & feel
SENSORYHeparin RX Complex
Proprietary blend featuring Sodium Heparin to calm inflammation at its source and accelerate visible recovery from blemishes.
Rapid-Some Technology
Patented liposome delivery softens the stratum corneum so actives penetrate up to 2.46x faster and deeper.
Mugwort + Cica Duo
Artemisia Princeps (mugwort) sits as the #1 ingredient, paired with Centella Asiatica for double-action calming.
3% Panthenol
Pro-vitamin B5 at a clinically meaningful concentration for deep barrier hydration and post-blemish repair.
Heat-Irritation Tested
Officially passed Heat-Induced Skin Irritation Soothing evaluation, suitable for reactive and post-procedure skin.
Korea's #1 Bestseller
Top-ranking soothing serum on Olive Young with over 100,000 units sold and a 96% satisfaction rate in Korea.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEFree from retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, and chemical sunscreens. All ingredients are considered safe during pregnancy and nursing.
Contains no problematic fatty acids, esters, or polysorbates. Safe for those with malassezia folliculitis or fungal acne concerns.
Lightweight watery gel formula with a comedogenic rating of 1/5. Won't clog pores or trigger breakouts in most users.
Compatible with retinol, vitamin C, AHA, BHA, and niacinamide. Ideal as a calming buffer between active treatments and moisturizer.
No added fragrance, essential oils, or denatured alcohol. Mild herbal scent comes naturally from mugwort extract.
Those with known Asteraceae/ragweed family allergies should patch test first, as Artemisia Princeps is the lead ingredient.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSArtemisia Princeps Leaf Extract ~46%Proven
Korean mugwort sits at the very top of the ingredient list, a rare formulation choice that places this extract above water itself. Mugwort delivers powerful anti-inflammatory and antibacterial action prized in traditional Korean dermatology.
- Source: A 2022 study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology found Artemisia extracts reduce inflammatory cytokines and inhibit P. acnes bacteria.
- Function: Soothes redness, reduces sebum oxidation, and calms reactive skin flare-ups.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) 3%Proven
An optimal 3% concentration of pro-vitamin B5, well above the typical 0.5–1% used in basic skincare. Panthenol is one of the most studied skin-soothing humectants in dermatology.
- Source: Clinical research published in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology shows panthenol improves barrier function and accelerates wound healing.
- Function: Hydrates deeply, supports lipid production, and reduces post-acne marks.
Sodium Heparin Heparin RX ComplexPromising
The signature active behind the Nosca9 name. Sodium Heparin is a low-molecular polysaccharide traditionally used for vascular support, repurposed here to reduce inflammatory swelling around active blemishes.
- Source: Korean dermatology research supports heparin's role in reducing blemish-related redness and edema.
- Function: Calms inflamed papules, reduces visible redness, and helps prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Centella Asiatica Extract High concentrationProven
Cica's hero quartet of asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid work synergistically to calm inflammation and stimulate collagen synthesis.
- Source: A 2021 meta-analysis in Phytomedicine confirms Centella's efficacy for wound healing and reducing inflammatory skin conditions.
- Function: Repairs the skin barrier, fades redness, and supports collagen production.
Malus Domestica (Apple) Fruit Extract ActivePromising
Apple fruit extract delivers natural AHAs and antioxidant polyphenols that help regulate sebum, soften clogged pores, and target whiteheads/blackheads without harsh exfoliation.
- Source: Apple polyphenol research demonstrates sebum-balancing and antioxidant effects on skin.
- Function: Reduces excess oil, refines pore appearance, and protects from oxidative stress.
Ceramide NP + Hydrogenated Lecithin Barrier ComplexProven
Skin-identical Ceramide NP rebuilds the lipid matrix between corneocytes, while hydrogenated lecithin acts as a phospholipid carrier that stabilizes and delivers actives deeper.
- Source: Ceramides are clinically proven to restore barrier function in compromised, irritated skin.
- Function: Strengthens skin barrier, reduces transepidermal water loss, and prevents irritation.
Sodium Hyaluronate Multi-weightProven
Low-molecular hyaluronic acid that holds up to 1,000x its weight in water, working alongside glycerin and panthenol to create a triple-humectant hydration system.
- Source: Decades of research confirm sodium hyaluronate as a gold-standard humectant for plumping and hydrating skin.
- Function: Delivers instant plumping hydration without weight or stickiness.
Allantoin SoothingProven
A gentle keratolytic and skin protectant that softens rough texture and accelerates cell turnover without irritation.
- Source: Recognized by the FDA as a skin protectant; widely used for sensitive and reactive skin.
- Function: Soothes irritation, smooths post-acne texture, and supports gentle exfoliation.
26 ingredients
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sodium Heparin, Malus Domestica Fruit Extract, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tromethamine, Allantoin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Succinic Acid, Tocopherol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Xanthan Gum.
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply right after toner on damp skin to maximize Rapid-some absorption. Use morning and night, and pair with sunscreen during the day.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Tone
Begin with a gentle cleanser, followed by your usual hydrating toner. Skin should feel slightly damp, not dry.
Dispense 2–3 Drops
Drop 2–3 drops into your palm or directly onto the face. A small amount covers the entire face thanks to the watery gel texture.
Pat to Absorb
Gently pat over face and neck — avoid rubbing. The Rapid-some technology pulls actives in within seconds.
Spot Treatment Hack
For active blemishes, soak a cotton pad in serum and place it on the affected area for 20–30 minutes as a calming compress.
Lock In With Moisturizer
Follow with your moisturizer to seal hydration. Always apply broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have hormonal or stress-related breakouts
- You experience persistent redness or post-acne marks
- Your skin is sensitive, reactive, or barrier-compromised
- You use retinol, AHA/BHA, or do in-clinic procedures
- You want a fragrance-free, fungal acne–safe serum
- You have oily, combination, or acne-prone skin
Consider alternatives if:
- You have a known mugwort or ragweed (Asteraceae) allergy
- You need active anti-aging benefits (retinol, peptides)
- You have very dry, mature skin needing rich emollients
- You're looking for strong exfoliation or BHA action
- You want a heavy occlusive layer in winter
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESWatery, gel-like texture absorbs instantly with no shine. Apple extract helps balance sebum.
Provides solid humectant hydration but should be layered under a richer cream for very dry skin.
Balances oily zones while hydrating drier areas without leaving a heavy or sticky residue.
Fragrance-free, alcohol-free, and clinically tested for heat-induced irritation. Patch test if mugwort-allergic.
Fungal-acne safe, non-comedogenic, and engineered specifically for inflamed, troubled skin.
Soothes and hydrates well, but lacks dedicated anti-aging actives like peptides or retinoids.
Results timeline
6–8 WEEKSCooling, Calming Sensation
Skin feels instantly hydrated and visibly less flushed. Itchy or stinging sensations from active breakouts subside.
87% noticedReduced Inflammation
Active blemishes look smaller, less angry, and less painful. Skin texture begins to feel smoother and more comfortable.
76% noticedFading Post-Acne Marks
Lingering red marks (PIE) start to fade noticeably. Overall skin tone appears more even and recovered.
68% noticedStronger Skin Barrier
Fewer reactive flare-ups, reduced sensitivity, and a visibly clearer complexion. Skin tolerates actives like retinol better.
82% noticedRatings by platform
12K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Visibly calms inflamed, painful blemishes within days
- Watery gel absorbs in seconds — perfect for layering
- Fragrance-free and tolerated by very sensitive skin
- Mugwort as #1 ingredient (rare in formulations)
- Effective for hormonal and stress-related breakouts
- Pregnancy-safe and fungal acne–safe
- Excellent post-procedure (laser, retinol, microneedling)
Criticized
- Mid-to-premium price for the quantity
- Subtle herbal/medicinal scent some dislike
- 30ml runs out quickly with full-face use
- Not a replacement for active acne treatments (BHA, retinoids)
- Mugwort allergy risk for ragweed-sensitive users
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Features 100% Ganghwa mugwort extract as the sole active. Less hydrating than Nosca9 (no panthenol or HA combo) but stronger pure mugwort soothing effect.
High-concentration Centella extract focused on calming. Skips the heparin and mugwort, but offers excellent value for cica-only soothing needs.
Five Centella extracts plus peptides for soothing and anti-aging. Lacks heparin RX complex but is more affordable for daily maintenance use.
Different active mechanism (snail mucin) but similar repair-and-soothe results. Better for scarring; less targeted for active inflammation.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Avoid extreme temperatures.
Glass dropper bottle for precise dosing and reduced air exposure.
Yes — both 30ml and 50ml sizes are TSA carry-on compliant (under 100ml).
Frequently asked questions
FAQYes. The formula is free from retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, and chemical sunscreens — all of which are typically restricted during pregnancy or nursing. The actives are plant-based (mugwort, centella, apple) plus low-risk humectants and ceramides. As always, we recommend consulting your OB-GYN before introducing any new product during pregnancy.
Yes. The formula is free from problematic fatty acids, esters with chain lengths 11–24, and most polysorbates that feed Malassezia yeast. Hydrogenated lecithin and ceramide NP are considered safe in this context. This makes it suitable for those managing fungal acne or pityrosporum folliculitis.
Yes — and it's actually one of its main use cases. Apply your active treatment (vitamin C in the morning, retinol or AHA/BHA at night), wait a few minutes for it to absorb, then layer Nosca9 on top. The mugwort, centella, and panthenol help buffer irritation, redness, and dryness caused by potent actives, making your routine more tolerable.
It performs best on oily, combination, sensitive, and acne-prone skin. The lightweight, watery gel format suits humid climates and oilier complexions, while the soothing actives are ideal for reactive or post-procedure skin. Dry skin types can use it but should layer a richer cream on top to seal in hydration.
Most users report immediate cooling and calming on the first application. Visible reduction in active blemish redness and swelling typically happens within 3–5 days. Post-acne marks (PIE redness) start to fade within 2–4 weeks of consistent twice-daily use, with the most significant skin barrier improvements at 6–8 weeks.
Apply it after cleansing and toning, but before heavier essences, creams, or oils. The order is: cleanser → toner → Nosca9 serum → essence (optional) → moisturizer → sunscreen (AM only). Apply on damp skin to maximize the Rapid-some delivery technology.
No, it has a comedogenic rating of 1/5 — very low. The watery gel formula contains no comedogenic oils, butters, or heavy silicones. It was specifically engineered for acne-prone skin and is officially marketed as a non-comedogenic, trouble-care serum.
The Period After Opening (PAO) is 12 months. Once opened, use within 12 months for full potency. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, and ensure the dropper is properly resealed after each use to prevent oxidation of mugwort extract and other plant actives.
Verdict: Fation Nosca9 Trouble Serum is one of the most targeted soothing serums on the K-beauty market, anchored by an unusual mugwort-as-#1-ingredient formulation paired with sodium heparin and 3% panthenol. It excels at calming hormonal breakouts, reducing post-acne redness, and supporting reactive or post-procedure skin. The only real downsides are the premium price relative to the bottle size and the subtle herbal scent that comes with high-concentration mugwort. For acne-prone, sensitive, and active-using skincare enthusiasts, this is a justified holy-grail purchase.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 3 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 1 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 6 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Dipropylene Glycol
Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking, Viscosity Controlling
|
|
|
| 1 |
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning
|
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
Redness
Irritation
|