Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser
Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser
Product Description
Product overview
Obagi Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser is a mild, soap-free gel face wash from the iconic medical-grade Nu-Derm system. Powered by oat amino acids, aloe vera, panthenol, and apricot kernel oil, it gently lifts away makeup, oil, and impurities without stripping the skin barrier — leaving normal, dry, and sensitive skin clean, soft, and prepped for the next step in your routine.
Oat Amino Acids
Soothes and conditions skin while gently surfactanting away dirt and makeup without irritation.
Texture & feel
SENSORYOat Amino Acids
Soothes and conditions skin while gently surfactanting away dirt and makeup without irritation.
Aloe Vera
Calms and hydrates as you cleanse, helping reduce post-wash tightness and redness.
Apricot Kernel Oil
Lightweight emollient that nourishes the skin and helps prevent the stripped feeling typical of foaming washes.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
Supports the skin barrier with humectant action — keeps skin soft and supple after rinsing.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains no retinoids, salicylic acid, or hydroquinone. All ingredients are considered safe for pregnant and nursing users.
No fatty acids, esters, polysorbates, or oils long enough to feed Malassezia. Apricot kernel oil is rinsed off and considered low-risk in wash-off products.
Pairs perfectly with retinoids, vitamin C, AHAs, and BHAs — its non-stripping formula won't compromise the barrier or cause stinging when actives are applied next.
Includes methyl/propyl/ethyl/butylparaben and parfum. Considered safe at cosmetic concentrations, but those preferring "clean beauty" formulas may want to note this.
SLES is a milder cousin of SLS and well-buffered here by oat amino acids. Most sensitive users tolerate it well, but eczema-prone skin may prefer sulfate-free.
Avoid direct contact with eyes. Soap-free formula is generally well-tolerated around the eye contour but rinse thoroughly.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSSodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids ~3-5%Proven
A mild, oat-derived surfactant that cleanses while reinforcing the skin's lipid barrier. The signature gentle ingredient of this formula.
- Source: Oat protein hydrolysates have demonstrated soothing and anti-irritant effects on sensitive skin in dermatological literature.
- Function: Acts as a co-surfactant that buffers harsher cleansing agents, reducing transepidermal water loss after washing.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine ~5-8%Proven
An amphoteric surfactant derived from coconut oil. Provides gentle foam and helps reduce the irritation potential of stronger surfactants.
- Source: CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel deems CAPB safe in rinse-off cosmetics at typical concentrations.
- Function: A "secondary" surfactant that softens the cleansing action of SLES and improves skin tolerance.
Glycerin ~3-5%Proven
A gold-standard humectant that draws water into the skin during cleansing, preventing the post-wash tight feeling.
- Source: Decades of clinical research support glycerin's role in skin hydration and barrier support.
- Function: Counteracts the dehydrating tendency of surfactants, leaving skin soft after rinsing.
Aloe Barbadensis (Sprout) ~1-3%Proven
Aloe vera leaf extract with well-documented anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, used here to calm reactive skin during cleansing.
- Source: Studies show aloe contains polysaccharides and acemannan that help soothe minor irritation.
- Function: Reduces redness and stinging during cleansing — particularly helpful after sun exposure or treatments.
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil <1%Proven
A lightweight emollient oil rich in oleic and linoleic acids that nourishes skin and prevents the squeaky-clean stripped feel.
- Source: Comedogenic rating of 2 in leave-on products, but rinse-off application minimizes pore-clogging risk.
- Function: Adds occlusive softness that lingers slightly after rinsing — key to the "moisturizing cleanser" feel.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) ~1-2%Proven
Converts to vitamin B5 in the skin and is widely used to support barrier repair, hydration, and wound healing.
- Source: Clinical research shows panthenol improves stratum corneum hydration and reduces inflammation.
- Function: Boosts the cleanser's barrier-support credentials, making it suitable for compromised skin.
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Extract <1%Promising
A botanical extract with antioxidant and mild antimicrobial properties traditionally used for oily and blemish-prone skin.
- Source: Sage contains rosmarinic acid and flavonoids with documented antioxidant activity in vitro.
- Function: Adds light astringent character, balancing the cleanser for combination skin.
22 ingredients
Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Sprout, Glycereth-7, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Oleyl Lactate, Ethoxydiglycol, Triethanolamine, Salvia Officinalis Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Saponins, Parfum, CI 19140.
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEStep 1 of the Obagi Nu-Derm system — the foundation that preps skin for actives like vitamin C, retinol, or hydroquinone treatments.
How to use
HOW TO USEWet Your Face
Splash lukewarm water on your face and neck. Avoid hot water — it can dehydrate the skin and trigger redness.
Dispense a Pea-Sized Amount
Squeeze a small amount into wet hands. A little goes a long way — over-using surfactant can disrupt the barrier.
Massage in Circular Motions
Work from the outer edges of the face inward for about 30 seconds. Allow the cleanser to dwell briefly to lift makeup and oil.
Rinse Thoroughly
Rinse with lukewarm water until skin feels clean but not tight. Pat dry gently with a soft towel — do not rub.
Use Twice Daily
Best used morning and evening. For heavy makeup or sunscreen, double-cleanse with an oil-based cleanser first.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have normal, dry, or sensitive skin
- You want a gentle, non-stripping daily cleanser
- You use retinoids, vitamin C, or other actives in your routine
- You're starting the Obagi Nu-Derm system
- You're recovering from microneedling, laser, or chemical peels
- You want a dermatologist-recommended formula
Consider alternatives if:
- You have very oily or congested skin (try Obagi Foaming Gel instead)
- You strictly avoid parabens and synthetic fragrance
- You need a deep-cleansing or exfoliating wash
- You prefer drugstore-priced cleansers
- You want a fully sulfate-free formulation
- You have severe eczema flare-ups (try Vanicream or CeraVe Hydrating)
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESGlycerin, panthenol, and apricot oil prevent the tight, stripped feel typical of foaming washes.
Oat amino acids and aloe make this one of the most reactive-skin-friendly cleansers in its price tier.
A balanced daily wash that maintains pH and skin comfort without over-cleansing.
Cleanses well, but very oily T-zones may still feel residue — try Obagi Foaming Gel instead for that profile.
Non-comedogenic but lacks deep oil-clearing power. Better for acne-prone skin during retinoid therapy when gentleness is key.
Mature skin loves the non-stripping formula — preserves natural oils and supports thinning barrier function.
Results timeline
MONTHS 2–3Soft, Comfortable Clean
Skin feels clean but not tight or squeaky. Makeup, sunscreen, and surface oil are removed without leaving residue.
90% noticed immediatelyReduced Post-Wash Dryness
Less reaching for moisturizer right after cleansing. Texture starts feeling more even and balanced.
75% noticedImproved Tolerance to Actives
Users on retinoids or vitamin C report less stinging and irritation thanks to the intact barrier.
68% noticedCalmer, More Even Complexion
Long-term use supports a calmer, less reactive skin barrier — especially valuable in the Nu-Derm system context.
60% noticedRatings by platform
4K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Genuinely gentle — won't strip dry or sensitive skin
- Removes makeup and sunscreen effectively
- Pairs perfectly with the rest of the Nu-Derm system
- Dermatologist and physician recommended
- Long-time users report 10–20+ years of consistent results
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding safe
- Suitable for post-procedure skin (laser, microneedling)
Criticized
- Premium price for a basic cleanser ($50+)
- Contains parabens and synthetic fragrance
- Includes SLES — not strictly sulfate-free
- Mild scent has changed over the years (some prefer the older version)
- Not strong enough for very oily or congested skin
- Hard to find in physical stores — mostly through doctors and online
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Almost identical positioning: gentle, non-foaming, normal-to-dry skin. Adds ceramides and hyaluronic acid that Obagi lacks. Larger 12oz bottle for a third of the price. The most popular dermatologist alternative.
French pharmacy classic with prebiotic thermal water and niacinamide. Even gentler than Obagi for ultra-reactive skin. Fragrance-free formula — a plus for those wanting to avoid parfum.
The original "doctor's office" gentle cleanser. Bare-bones formula, no fragrance, can be used without water. Less luxurious feel than Obagi but unmatched value for sensitive skin.
Hypoallergenic, fragrance-free, paraben-free, sulfate-free — the cleaner-formula alternative. Best for very reactive or eczema-prone skin that struggles with Obagi's parfum and parabens.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. Keep tightly closed.
Plastic flip-top squeeze bottle (198ml / 6.7 fl oz)
Not carry-on size — exceeds 100ml liquid limit. Decant into a travel bottle for flights.
Frequently asked questions
FAQYes. The formula contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens — the main categories typically avoided during pregnancy and lactation. The mild surfactants, oat amino acids, glycerin, aloe, and panthenol are all considered safe. As always, if you're concerned, run any product by your OB-GYN or dermatologist.
Yes, it is generally considered fungal-acne safe. The formula contains no problematic fatty acids, esters, or polysorbates that feed Malassezia. Apricot kernel oil is present at low levels and rinses off, making it low-risk in a wash-off product. If you have severe fungal acne, choose entirely oil-free alternatives like Vanicream or Cetaphil.
Absolutely — this is one of its main strengths. Because the cleanser doesn't strip the skin barrier, your subsequent actives (retinoids, L-ascorbic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid) penetrate well and cause less stinging or irritation. It's the official Step 1 of the Nu-Derm system, which is built around hydroquinone and tretinoin therapy.
It's officially formulated for normal to dry skin and works exceptionally well for sensitive and mature skin. Combination skin can use it daily, though very oily or acne-prone skin types may prefer the Obagi Nu-Derm Foaming Gel for better oil control. Post-procedure skin (laser, microneedling, peels) tolerates it especially well.
Cleansers don't work like serums — you'll feel the difference immediately on day one (skin feels clean but not tight). Within the first week, post-wash dryness and reactivity should reduce noticeably. Long-term barrier benefits become apparent over 4–8 weeks of consistent twice-daily use, especially when paired with the rest of the Nu-Derm system.
Always Step 1 — applied to wet skin in the morning and evening, before any toner, serum, or moisturizer. If you wear heavy makeup or sunscreen, double-cleanse: use an oil-based balm or micellar water first, then follow with this gentle gel cleanser to remove residue.
No — with a comedogenic rating of approximately 1/5, it's considered very low-risk for clogged pores. While it does contain apricot kernel oil (rated 2/5 in leave-on formulas), the rinse-off application minimizes any pore-clogging potential. The vast majority of acne-prone users tolerate it without breakouts.
The Period After Opening (PAO) is 12 months. With twice-daily use of a pea-sized amount, a 198ml bottle typically lasts 4–6 months for one person. Store at room temperature away from heat and direct sunlight, and always close the cap tightly to maintain product integrity.
Verdict: Obagi Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser earns its reputation as a medical-grade go-to for normal, dry, and sensitive skin. The oat amino acid–led surfactant blend, paired with aloe, glycerin, panthenol, and apricot kernel oil, delivers a genuinely non-stripping clean that pairs beautifully with potent actives like retinoids and vitamin C. It's pregnancy-safe, fungal-acne-safe, and low on the comedogenic scale. The drawbacks — premium pricing, parabens, parfum, and SLES — keep it from a perfect score, and budget shoppers will find cleaner formulas at CeraVe, La Roche-Posay, or Vanicream for a fraction of the price. But if you're committed to the Obagi system, recovering from a procedure, or simply want a tried-and-true gentle wash with 35+ years of dermatologist endorsement, this remains one of the best in its category.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Brightening from 1 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 2 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 4 |
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Sufactant, Foam Boosting
|
|
|
| 1 |
Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids
Skin Conditioning, Surfactant, Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning
|
|
|
| 3 |
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing, Foaming
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|