Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) Toner
Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) Toner
Product Description
Product overview
A gentle exfoliating toner featuring 3% Gluconolactone (PHA) and 3% Niacinamide to smooth skin texture, brighten tone, and lock in moisture without irritation – ideal for sensitive skin types new to chemical exfoliation.
Gentle Exfoliation
PHAs have larger molecules than AHAs, providing surface-level exfoliation without penetrating deep into skin – no stinging or burning sensation.
Texture & feel
SENSORYGentle Exfoliation
PHAs have larger molecules than AHAs, providing surface-level exfoliation without penetrating deep into skin – no stinging or burning sensation.
Hydrating Properties
Gluconolactone acts as a humectant, attracting and retaining moisture while exfoliating – unlike traditional acids that can dry skin.
No Photosensitivity
Unlike AHAs that increase sun sensitivity, studies show PHAs do not cause photosensitization – though SPF is still recommended.
Barrier Support
Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, controls sebum, and reduces redness while aloe vera provides soothing benefits.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens. PHAs are considered safe during pregnancy by most dermatologists.
Contains PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil which may feed malassezia yeast. Those with fungal acne should proceed with caution.
Contains no comedogenic oils or heavy ingredients. Very unlikely to clog pores or cause breakouts.
Do not combine with AHAs, BHAs, retinol, or vitamin C in the same routine. Alternate days or use at different times.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSGluconolactone (PHA) 3%Proven
A polyhydroxy acid that gently exfoliates dead skin cells while attracting moisture. Larger molecular size means slower penetration and less irritation compared to AHAs like glycolic acid.
- 2023 Study: 10% gluconolactone peels reduced TEWL and improved skin hydration over 4 weeks
- 2004 Research: Provided up to 50% protection against UV radiation without increasing sun sensitivity
- Clinical Trials: Shown effective against acne when used consistently over 12 weeks
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) 3%Proven
A well-researched vitamin that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces excess oil production, minimizes pore appearance, and helps even out skin tone. Plays well with most other ingredients.
- Oil Control: Clinically shown to reduce sebum excretion rate
- Barrier Function: Increases ceramide synthesis and improves skin hydration
- Anti-inflammatory: Helps reduce redness and calm irritated skin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice –Promising
Natural aloe vera extract known for its soothing, calming, and moisturizing properties. Helps offset any potential irritation from the exfoliating acids.
- Anti-inflammatory: Contains compounds that help reduce skin inflammation
- Hydration: Rich in polysaccharides that help skin retain moisture
- Wound Healing: Traditionally used to soothe irritated or compromised skin
16 ingredients
Water (Aqua / Eau), Propanediol, Gluconolactone, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply after cleansing and hydrating serum. Can be used AM and PM. Start 1-2x weekly, build up to daily use. Do not layer with other exfoliating acids, retinol, or vitamin C.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Prep
Start with clean, damp skin. If using Hyaluronic Acid serum, apply that first on damp skin.
Apply Toner
Saturate a cotton pad with toner and gently sweep across face and neck. Alternatively, dispense into palms and pat onto skin.
No Rinse Required
Allow the toner to absorb fully. There's no need to rinse off – it's a leave-on treatment.
Follow With Care
Apply your favorite serum, moisturizer, and SPF (in morning). Avoid using with other acids or retinol on same day initially.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have sensitive skin that can't tolerate AHAs or BHAs
- You're new to chemical exfoliation
- You want gentle exfoliation without dryness
- You're pregnant or breastfeeding and need a safe exfoliant
- You have dull, uneven skin texture
- You want an affordable, effective toner
Consider alternatives if:
- You have fungal acne (contains PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil)
- You want aggressive exfoliation for stubborn concerns
- You need higher concentrations of actives (this has 3% PHA)
- You're experienced with acids and want stronger results
- You need pore-clearing BHA for oily, acne-prone skin
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESSpecifically designed for sensitive skin. PHAs are the gentlest of all chemical exfoliants – no stinging, burning, or redness.
PHAs act as humectants, attracting moisture while exfoliating. Won't strip or dry out skin like glycolic acid can.
Niacinamide helps control excess oil. However, those with very oily skin may prefer stronger BHA products for pore-clearing.
Balances well across different zones – gently exfoliates while niacinamide regulates oil in T-zone and hydrates dry areas.
Not fungal acne safe due to PEG-40. For regular acne, the 3% concentration may be too gentle for stubborn breakouts.
Results timeline
3+ MONTHSInitial Smoothness
Skin feels softer and smoother to the touch. Some users notice an immediate refreshing, hydrated feeling after application. Makeup applies more evenly.
70% noticed smoother textureImproved Texture
Dead skin cell buildup reduced. Skin appears brighter and more even. Fine lines may appear less noticeable due to improved hydration.
65% saw brightness improvementVisible Results
Full results typically visible by 6 weeks. Noticeably smoother, clearer, more radiant complexion. Sebum production may be more balanced.
60% achieved desired resultsLong-Term Benefits
Continued use supports skin renewal cycle. Better product absorption, improved overall skin health, and maintained glow with regular use.
55% repurchased productRatings by platform
583+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Extremely gentle – no stinging or irritation
- Suitable for sensitive skin and acid beginners
- Hydrating rather than drying
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding safe
- Affordable price point ($15)
- Fragrance-free formula
- Quick absorption, no residue
- Improves makeup application
Criticized
- 3% PHA concentration may be too gentle for some
- Not fungal acne safe (contains PEGs)
- 100ml bottle is small for daily use
- Results take 4-6 weeks to appear
- Dispenser opening not ideal
- May not satisfy experienced acid users
- Some find it does little for stubborn concerns
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Contains niacinamide and arbutin for brightening without exfoliating acids. Better for those who want tone improvement without any exfoliation. 120ml vs 100ml – slightly better value.
Uses glycolic acid (0.1%) and betaine salicylate (0.1%) instead of PHA. Larger 150ml size. More exfoliating but also more irritating – not ideal for sensitive skin.
Contains all three acid types plus tea tree and 2% niacinamide. 150ml size. More comprehensive but also more complex – contains fragrance and peppermint oil which may irritate sensitive skin.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place (15-25°C / 59-77°F). Keep out of direct sunlight.
Recyclable plastic bottle with small opening. 100% recyclable packaging as per brand standards.
Yes – 100ml is under TSA liquid limit. Sturdy plastic bottle suitable for travel.
Frequently asked questions
FAQYes, this toner is considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It contains no retinoids, salicylic acid (BHA), hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens. PHAs like gluconolactone are generally considered safe because they don't penetrate as deeply as other acids. The brand itself confirms pregnancy safety on their website. However, always consult your healthcare provider before adding new products during pregnancy.
No, this toner is NOT considered fungal acne safe. It contains PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. If you have pityrosporum folliculitis or are prone to fungal acne, you should avoid this product and look for alternatives like COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Toner which is fungal acne safe.
The brand recommends NOT layering PHA Toner with other exfoliating acids (AHAs/BHAs), retinol, or vitamin C in the same routine. While PHAs are gentler than other acids, combining multiple actives can increase irritation risk. Instead, use them on alternate days or at different times (e.g., vitamin C in morning, PHA toner at night). Once your skin is acclimated, some users do successfully combine them, but start cautiously.
This toner is best for sensitive skin, dry skin, combination skin, and those new to chemical exfoliation. PHAs are the gentlest of all hydroxy acids, making this ideal for people who can't tolerate glycolic acid or salicylic acid. It's also excellent for those seeking gentle anti-aging benefits without irritation. However, it may be too gentle for those with very oily or acne-prone skin who need stronger BHA products.
According to the brand, expect up to 6 weeks for full results. Most users notice improved texture and softness within 1-2 weeks. Visible brightness improvements typically appear around weeks 3-4. Remember that skin cell turnover takes approximately 28-30 days, so patience is key. Consistency matters more than frequency – don't overuse thinking it will work faster.
Apply after cleansing and after Hyaluronic Acid serum (if using). The brand's recommended order is: 1) Cleanser, 2) Hyaluronic Acid Serum, 3) PHA Toner, 4) Eye Treatment, 5) Moisturizer, 6) Sunscreen (AM only). Saturate a cotton pad and sweep across face and neck, or dispense into palms and pat onto skin. No need to rinse off.
This toner has a very low comedogenic rating (1/5). It contains no heavy oils or known pore-clogging ingredients. The lightweight, watery formula is unlikely to cause breakouts or clogged pores for most people. However, everyone's skin is different – if you're acne-prone, always patch test new products first. Note that it's not recommended for those with fungal acne due to certain ingredients.
The product has a 12-month PAO (Period After Opening). Store in a cool, dry place between 15-25°C (59-77°F) and keep out of direct sunlight. With the 100ml bottle size and daily use (AM + PM), expect the product to last approximately 1-2 months depending on how much you dispense per application. Many reviewers note the bottle runs out faster than expected with consistent use.
Verdict: The Inkey List PHA Toner is an excellent entry point into chemical exfoliation for sensitive skin types. At $15 for 100ml, it offers great value with its gentle 3% gluconolactone and 3% niacinamide formula. The fragrance-free, pregnancy-safe formulation makes it accessible to many who can't use traditional AHAs. However, the gentle concentration may disappoint experienced acid users, and it's not suitable for those with fungal acne. Best for: beginners, sensitive skin, dry skin seeking gentle texture improvement. Not ideal for: fungal acne sufferers, those wanting aggressive exfoliation, experienced acid users.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 3 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 3 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Propanediol
Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
|
|
|
| 1 |
Gluconolactone
Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning
|
Anti-Aging
|
|
| 1 |
Niacinamide
Skin Conditioning, Hair Conditioning, Smoothing
|
Brightening
Ache-fighting
Anti-Aging
Promotes Wound Healing
Redness
Irritation
Dark Spots
Pores
|
|
| 1 |
Pentylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|