Puhdas Deeply Purifying Toner
Puhdas Deeply Purifying Toner
Product Description
Product overview
A lightweight, oil-free purifying toner formulated with Nordic Birch Sap and Niacinamide to deeply cleanse pores, control excess oil, and mattify combination to oily skin. Made with 97% natural-origin ingredients in Finland.
Nordic Birch Sap
Organic Finnish birch sap delivers vitamins, amino acids, and minerals while gently purifying pores without stripping moisture.
Texture & feel
SENSORYNordic Birch Sap
Organic Finnish birch sap delivers vitamins, amino acids, and minerals while gently purifying pores without stripping moisture.
Pore-Minimizing Action
Oil-free formula helps reduce the visible appearance of enlarged pores, leaving skin looking refined and smooth.
Smart Sugar Technology
Saccharide Isomerate binds to the skin longer than standard humectants, delivering sustained hydration for hours.
Mattifying Effect
Controls excess sebum and oily shine throughout the day while maintaining skin's natural moisture balance.
Safety & compatibility
SAFENo retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens. All ingredients are considered safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Contains PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, a polysorbate-type emulsifier that may feed malassezia yeast and trigger fungal acne flare-ups.
Oil-free, lightweight formula has a very low chance of clogging pores. Suitable for acne-prone skin when fungal acne is not a concern.
Alcohol Denat. is the second ingredient, meaning it's present in significant concentration. May cause dryness, irritation, or stinging on sensitive or compromised skin.
Parfum (Fragrance) and Limonene are listed. These can be potential sensitizers for people with fragrance allergies or very reactive skin.
100% vegan formula. Lumene does not test on animals. Packaging is made partly from recycled plastic.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSBetula Alba (Birch) Juice ~3-5%Proven
Organic Nordic Birch Sap is the signature ingredient, rich in natural vitamins, amino acids, and minerals. It purifies and refreshes oily skin while providing gentle hydration from within.
- Source: Harvested from Finnish birch trees in spring when sap is richest in nutrients.
- Benefit: Contains natural xylitol, vitamin C, and potassium that help tone and clarify skin.
- Research: Birch sap has demonstrated anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties in dermatological studies.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) <1%Proven
A well-researched skin-brightening and pore-refining ingredient. At this concentration it provides mild supporting benefits for oil control and skin barrier function.
- Research: Studies show niacinamide reduces sebum production, minimizes pore appearance, and improves uneven skin tone.
- Concentration: Listed after phenoxyethanol (max 1%), so present at below 1%. Most clinical studies use 2-5% for full efficacy.
- Benefit: Even at low levels, niacinamide supports the skin barrier and has mild anti-inflammatory effects.
Saccharide Isomerate ~1%Proven
A corn-derived "smart sugar" humectant that mimics the carbohydrate structures found naturally in human skin, allowing it to bind and deliver long-lasting hydration.
- Research: Proven to provide up to 72 hours of continuous hydration by chemically bonding to skin cells.
- Advantage: Binds more strongly and lasts longer than typical humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid.
- Source: Derived from plant sugars, making it a natural-origin ingredient.
Alcohol Denat. ~15-25%Functional
Denatured alcohol serves as a solvent, penetration enhancer, and astringent. It gives the toner its lightweight, fast-drying, and mattifying texture.
- Function: Creates the refreshing, quick-absorbing finish and helps dissolve other active ingredients.
- Astringent: Temporarily tightens pores and removes excess oil on the skin surface.
- Antimicrobial: Provides additional cleansing and preservative-boosting properties.
Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract <0.5%Promising
African yellowwood bark extract with natural sebum-regulating properties. Works synergistically with Oleanolic Acid to control oil production at the source.
- Research: Studies indicate this extract can inhibit 5-alpha reductase, an enzyme linked to excess sebum production.
- Synergy: Combined with Oleanolic Acid, it provides a targeted mattifying complex for oily skin.
Oleanolic Acid <0.5%Promising
A plant-derived triterpenoid with anti-inflammatory and sebum-regulating properties. Found naturally in olive leaves and various medicinal plants.
- Research: Shown to help normalize sebum production and reduce the appearance of oily shine.
- Benefit: Works alongside Enantia Chlorantha to form a natural mattifying complex.
17 ingredients
Aqua (Water), Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, Betula Alba (Birch) Juice, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Saccharide Isomerate, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Enantia Chlorantha (Bark) Extract, Sodium Citrate, Oleanolic Acid, Limonene, Parfum (Fragrance)
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse morning and evening after cleansing. Apply before serums and moisturizer. Always follow with sunscreen in the morning.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse Your Face
Wash your face with your regular cleanser and pat dry. The toner works best on clean, slightly damp skin.
Apply to Cotton Pad
Saturate a cotton pad with the toner. You only need enough to dampen the pad — no need to drench it.
Gently Wipe Face & Neck
Sweep the pad across your face and neck using gentle upward motions. Focus on the T-zone and areas with enlarged pores.
Let It Absorb
Allow the toner to absorb fully — this takes only seconds. Do not rinse. Follow with your serum and moisturizer.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have oily or combination skin with visible pores
- You want an oil-free, mattifying toner for daily use
- You prefer natural-origin, Nordic skincare formulations
- You need a quick-absorbing toner that controls shine
- You want a vegan, paraben-free, and silicone-free product
Consider alternatives if:
- You have dry, dehydrated, or very sensitive skin
- You are sensitive to alcohol or fragrance in skincare
- You need a fungal acne (malassezia) safe formula
- You have eczema, rosacea, or a compromised skin barrier
- You want a hydrating or essence-type toner
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESIdeal match. The alcohol and sebum-regulating actives effectively control excess oil and shine throughout the day.
Great for the T-zone. Use targeted application on oilier areas, and follow with moisturizer on drier cheeks.
Works well as a cleansing step. The alcohol content may feel unnecessary for balanced skin — pair with a hydrating serum.
Not recommended. High alcohol content can strip moisture and exacerbate dryness and flaking.
Alcohol Denat. and fragrance may cause stinging, redness, or irritation. Patch test strongly advised.
Low comedogenic rating and oil-free formula are a plus. However, not safe for fungal acne. Alcohol may irritate active breakouts.
Results timeline
MONTH 2-3Immediate Mattifying Effect
Skin feels instantly cleaner, tighter, and more refreshed. Visible reduction in surface oil and a matte finish right away.
90% noticed immediatelyReduced Oiliness & Freshness
Consistent use leads to noticeably less oily shine through the day. Skin feels cleaner and pores appear slightly more refined.
75% noticed within 2 weeksPore Appearance Improvement
With daily use, pores begin to look visibly smaller and less congested. Skin texture starts to feel smoother and more even.
60% noticed within 4 weeksOverall Skin Clarity
Long-term use yields a more balanced complexion with fewer breakouts. Skin looks purified, mattified, and well-maintained.
50% noticed by month 3Ratings by platform
123+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Effectively controls oil and mattifies oily skin all day
- Visibly minimizes the appearance of enlarged pores
- 97% natural-origin ingredients with organic Nordic Birch Sap
- Vegan, paraben-free, silicone-free, sulfate-free formula
- Affordable price point for a 200ml bottle
- Lightweight, fast-absorbing texture — no residue
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding safe
Criticized
- High alcohol content (2nd ingredient) — can be very drying
- Contains fragrance (Parfum) and Limonene — potential irritants
- Not suitable for dry, sensitive, or eczema-prone skin
- Not fungal acne safe (contains PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil)
- Niacinamide concentration is below 1% — limited active benefits
- Strong alcohol scent noted by multiple reviewers
- Limited availability outside Nordic/European markets
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Alcohol-free and fragrance-free alternative. Gentler on skin but lacks the mattifying effect and birch sap actives. Better for sensitive skin.
Natural astringent toner with witch hazel. Alcohol-free formula provides similar pore-tightening without the drying effect. Larger 355ml bottle.
K-beauty clarifying toner with AHA and BHA for gentle exfoliation. No alcohol, more active exfoliants. Fungal acne safe. Different approach to pore care.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Keep the cap tightly closed to prevent evaporation of the alcohol base.
Plastic bottle with screw cap, made partly from recycled and recyclable plastic.
No — 200ml exceeds the 100ml carry-on liquid limit. Decant into a travel bottle for flights.
Frequently asked questions
FAQYes. This toner does not contain retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens — the main ingredients typically flagged during pregnancy. All 17 ingredients are considered safe for use while pregnant or breastfeeding. The alcohol content is topical and does not pose a systemic risk. However, always consult your healthcare provider if you have specific concerns.
No. This toner contains PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, which is a polysorbate-type emulsifier. Polysorbates and PEG esters of fatty acids can serve as a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. If you have diagnosed or suspected fungal acne (pityrosporum folliculitis), this product should be avoided. Consider alternatives like the COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner which is confirmed fungal acne safe.
Use with caution. The high alcohol content in this toner can compromise the skin barrier. Layering it with potent actives like retinol, vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), AHAs, or BHAs may increase the risk of irritation, dryness, and sensitivity. If you use active treatments, consider applying them at a different time of day (e.g., toner in the morning, retinol at night) or choosing an alcohol-free toner to pair with your actives.
This toner is specifically formulated for oily and combination skin. It excels at controlling excess sebum, minimizing the appearance of pores, and leaving a matte finish. It is not recommended for dry, sensitive, eczema-prone, or rosacea-prone skin due to the high alcohol and fragrance content. Normal skin types can use it but may find it unnecessarily drying.
You will notice immediate mattifying and pore-tightening effects from the very first application. Consistent oil control and a cleaner complexion typically become apparent within 1-2 weeks of twice-daily use. Visible improvement in pore size and overall skin clarity usually takes 3-4 weeks. For long-term purifying benefits, continue use for 2-3 months as part of a complete skincare routine.
Apply this toner as the second step in your routine, immediately after cleansing. Soak a cotton pad and gently sweep across your face and neck. Follow with your serum, moisturizer, and sunscreen (morning). Use it both morning and evening for best results. It acts as the final cleansing step and prepares your skin to absorb subsequent products.
This toner has a very low comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. The oil-free, lightweight formula is unlikely to clog pores. It does not contain heavy oils, waxes, or known pore-clogging ingredients. In fact, it is designed to help clear and minimize pores. However, individual reactions can vary — if you notice new breakouts, discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
The Period After Opening (PAO) is 12 months. Once opened, use the product within one year for optimal freshness and efficacy. Store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and keep the cap tightly closed. The high alcohol content does help preserve the formula, but prolonged exposure to air can alter the product over time.
Verdict: The Lumene Puhdas Deeply Purifying Toner is an effective, no-frills mattifying toner that delivers immediate oil control and pore-tightening for oily and combination skin. The Nordic Birch Sap and 97% natural-origin formula align with clean beauty preferences, and the affordable price for 200ml is a strong value. However, the high alcohol content is a significant drawback — it makes this toner unsuitable for dry, sensitive, or barrier-compromised skin, and limits its pairing with potent actives. The below-1% niacinamide is more marketing than clinical benefit. If you have truly oily skin and want a simple, affordable purifying toner, this delivers. If you want modern, gentle formulation without alcohol or fragrance, better options exist from Paula's Choice and COSRX at similar price points.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 2 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 3 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 0 |
Alcohol Denat.
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Betula Alba Juice
Tonic, Astringent
|
|
|
| 3 |
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Perfuming, Surfactant, Fragrance, Emulsifying
|
|