Rescue Serum
Rescue Serum
Product Description
Product overview
A treatment serum powered by a 10% Azelaic Complex (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate) that targets blemishes, fades uneven skin tone, dark spots, and post-blemish marks for brighter, smoother, more even-toned skin. Formulated by celebrity esthetician Shani Darden with soothing oat kernel, aloe, anti-inflammatory licorice, hyaluronic acid, and panthenol.
10% Azelaic Complex
Proprietary blend using Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to brighten skin, reduce blemishes, and even out tone without the irritation of pure azelaic acid.
Texture & feel
SENSORY10% Azelaic Complex
Proprietary blend using Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to brighten skin, reduce blemishes, and even out tone without the irritation of pure azelaic acid.
Soothing Botanicals
Oat kernel extract, aloe vera, and licorice root work together to calm redness, reduce sensitivity, and deliver anti-inflammatory benefits.
Hydration Blend
Hyaluronic acid (Sodium Hyaluronate) and Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) deeply hydrate, plump, and nourish skin while strengthening the barrier.
Clean, Oil-Free Formula
Non-comedogenic and free from parabens, sulfates, mineral oil, hydroquinone, and phthalates. Vegan, cruelty-free, and comes in recyclable packaging.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens. The azelaic acid derivative (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate) is generally considered safe during pregnancy. Always consult your OB/GYN.
Contains Dicaprylyl Carbonate (an ester), Glyceryl Stearate, and Stearyl Alcohol which may potentially feed Malassezia yeast. Not considered fully fungal acne safe.
Oil-free, non-comedogenic formula. Unlikely to clog pores. Suitable for acne-prone skin types.
Free from fragrances, common allergens, harsh alcohols, and parabens. Contains soothing oat, aloe, and licorice. Low irritation potential.
Can be paired with Retinol Reform once skin has acclimated. Azelaic acid derivatives are known to help reduce retinol side effects like redness and irritation.
Start with 3 nights a week, every other night, then build up frequency as tolerated. Follow with SPF during the day.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate 10% ComplexProven
The star ingredient — a water-soluble derivative of azelaic acid combined with glycine. It targets uneven skin tone, blemishes, hyperpigmentation, and post-acne marks while being gentler and more cosmetically elegant than pure azelaic acid.
- Function: Brightening, anti-blemish, anti-inflammatory, melanin inhibitor
- Advantage: Better water solubility than azelaic acid allows for lighter serum textures
- Research: Studies show azelaic acid derivatives reduce hyperpigmentation and normalize sebum activity
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel ExtractProven
A well-established soothing ingredient recognized by the FDA as an active skin protectant. Rich in beta-glucans and avenanthramides that calm inflammation, redness, and irritation.
- Function: Anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing, barrier support
- Evidence: FDA-recognized active ingredient under OTC Skin Protectant monograph
- Best for: Dry, irritated, inflamed, and eczema-prone skin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf JuiceProven
A classic moisturizing and anti-inflammatory botanical containing salicylates, polysaccharides, and C-glucosyl chromone. Helps soothe and hydrate reactive skin.
- Function: Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial
- Evidence: Multiple anti-inflammatory components confirmed by research
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Licorice Root)Proven
A potent extract from licorice root that delivers both brightening and anti-inflammatory benefits. Helps inhibit melanin production and reduce the appearance of dark spots.
- Function: Skin-lightening, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant
- Benefit: Complements azelaic complex for enhanced brightening results
Sodium Hyaluronate 0.4–1.0%Proven
A low molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid that penetrates deeper into the skin to attract and retain moisture. Plumps skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines.
- Function: Humectant, hydration, plumping
- Evidence: Extensively studied — can hold up to 1000x its weight in water
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) 0.35–0.80%Proven
A humectant and skin-conditioning agent that strengthens the skin barrier, improves hydration, and reduces inflammation. Converts to Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) in the skin.
- Function: Barrier repair, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory
- Evidence: Well-studied for wound healing and skin barrier improvement
Lactic AcidPromising
A gentle AHA used here at a low concentration primarily for pH adjustment and mild exfoliation. Helps improve skin texture and supports the delivery of other actives.
- Function: Mild exfoliation, pH adjustment, hydration
- Note: Used at low concentration in this formula — not a primary exfoliant
22 ingredients
Water/Aqua/Eau, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Maltodextrin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Licorice Root Extract), Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lactic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Gluconate, Sclerotium Gum, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply in the evening after cleansing. Can also be used in the morning — always follow with SPF during the day. Pairs well with Retinol Reform once skin has acclimated.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse Your Skin
Start with clean, dry skin. Use your preferred gentle cleanser to remove makeup, sunscreen, and impurities.
Apply 1–2 Pumps
Dispense 1–2 pumps of Rescue Serum onto fingertips. Smooth evenly across the face, avoiding the eye area.
Start Slowly
Begin with 3 nights per week, every other night. Gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
Follow with Moisturizer
Allow serum to absorb for 30–60 seconds, then layer your moisturizer on top. In the morning, always finish with broad-spectrum SPF.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You struggle with post-acne dark spots or hyperpigmentation
- You want to brighten and even out your skin tone
- You experience redness or sensitivity and need a gentle active
- You want a pregnancy-safe treatment for blemishes
- You need a serum that pairs well with retinol
- You prefer clean, oil-free, vegan skincare
Consider alternatives if:
- You need strong prescription-strength azelaic acid (15–20%)
- You have severe cystic acne requiring medical treatment
- You are looking for a budget-friendly option under $20
- You have confirmed fungal acne (Malassezia) — some esters present
- You want an all-in-one anti-aging solution with retinol included
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESOil-free, lightweight formula absorbs quickly without adding shine. Azelaic complex helps normalize sebum production.
Hyaluronic acid and panthenol provide hydration, but dry skin types will need a richer moisturizer on top for adequate moisture.
Balances well across different facial zones. Lightweight enough for oily areas while hydrating dry patches.
Fragrance-free with soothing oat, aloe, and licorice. Azelaic derivative is gentler than pure azelaic acid. Low irritation potential.
Non-comedogenic, oil-free formula. Azelaic complex is antibacterial and anti-inflammatory — targets active blemishes and post-acne marks.
Results timeline
WEEKS 8–12Immediate Soothing & Calming
Skin feels calmer and more hydrated. Redness begins to visibly reduce. The lightweight texture absorbs quickly with no residue.
100% showed improvement in skin clarity and brightnessVisible Brightening & Tone Evening
Dark spots and post-blemish marks begin to visibly fade. Skin tone appears more even and radiant. Texture feels smoother to the touch.
96% showed reduction in hyperpigmentationSignificant Improvement in Texture & Clarity
Noticeable reduction in active blemishes and breakouts. Post-acne marks continue fading. Skin looks clearer and more luminous overall.
93% showed reduction in redness and textureCumulative Brightening & Long-Term Results
Full brightening effects become apparent with consistent use. Hormonal breakouts may subside. Skin maintains a calm, balanced, and even-toned appearance.
Continued improvement with consistent nightly useRatings by platform
60+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Visibly brightens and evens skin tone within 1–2 weeks
- Gentle enough for sensitive and redness-prone skin
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding safe formula
- Clean, minimal 22-ingredient formula — no unnecessary fillers
- Oil-free, non-comedogenic — layers well under makeup
- Pairs well with retinol for a comprehensive routine
- Helps calm hormonal breakouts over time
- Lightweight, fast-absorbing texture with no residue
Criticized
- Premium price — $68 for only 30ml / 1 fl oz
- Uses an azelaic acid derivative, not pure azelaic acid
- Not fully fungal acne (Malassezia) safe due to esters
- Results require consistent use over several weeks
- Only one size available — no travel or value size options
- May not be strong enough for severe hyperpigmentation
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Also uses Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (the same azelaic acid derivative). Watery serum texture, easy to layer. Lacks the premium botanical complex of oat, aloe, and licorice found in Rescue Serum. Great affordable alternative for brightening.
Uses pure azelaic acid instead of a derivative — stronger but potentially more irritating. Thick, silicone-based cream-gel texture that can pill under other products. More effective for acne but less elegant and less soothing.
Uses pure azelaic acid plus salicylic acid and licorice extract. Cream-lotion texture, heavier than Rescue Serum. Better for acne-prone skin needing BHA, but may cause more stinging. Not pregnancy safe due to salicylic acid.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. No refrigeration required.
Airless pump bottle — recyclable packaging that protects formula from oxidation and contamination
Yes, 30ml is under the 100ml TSA/carry-on limit
Frequently asked questions
FAQYes. Rescue Serum does not contain retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens. The active ingredient, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (an azelaic acid derivative), is generally considered safe for use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Azelaic acid is one of the few active ingredients dermatologists commonly recommend for pregnant individuals dealing with hyperpigmentation or acne. However, always consult your healthcare provider before introducing new skincare products during pregnancy.
Use with caution. While Rescue Serum is oil-free and non-comedogenic, it contains Dicaprylyl Carbonate (an ester), Glyceryl Stearate, and Stearyl Alcohol, which may potentially feed Malassezia yeast in individuals prone to fungal acne. If you have confirmed fungal acne, consider patch testing first or opt for a formula specifically verified as fungal acne safe.
Yes, with gradual introduction. The brand specifically states that Rescue Serum can be used with Retinol Reform once skin has acclimated. Azelaic acid derivatives are known to complement retinol by reducing redness and irritation side effects. For vitamin C, you can use vitamin C in the morning and Rescue Serum in the evening. With AHAs and BHAs, introduce one product at a time and alternate nights initially to avoid over-exfoliation.
Rescue Serum is formulated for all skin types — normal, dry, combination, and oily. It is particularly well-suited for sensitive, acne-prone, and hyperpigmentation-prone skin. The oil-free, lightweight formula works especially well for oily and combination skin, while the hydrating blend of hyaluronic acid and panthenol provides adequate moisture for drier skin types when layered with a moisturizer.
According to clinical data, 100% of participants showed improvement in skin clarity, brightness, and evenness of tone. Visible results can begin in as little as 7 days with consistent use. Redness reduction and soothing effects are typically noticed within the first week. Significant fading of dark spots and post-blemish marks generally takes 4–8 weeks of regular use. For best results, use consistently and follow the gradual introduction protocol.
Apply Rescue Serum after cleansing (and toner, if used) but before moisturizer. In the evening, smooth 1–2 pumps onto clean skin. It can also be used in the morning — just make sure to follow with broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day. The serum has a lightweight texture that layers well under moisturizers, oils, and SPF without pilling.
No. Rescue Serum is specifically formulated to be non-comedogenic and oil-free. It has a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5, meaning it is very unlikely to clog pores. The azelaic complex actually has anti-comedonal properties that help prevent pore clogging. It is suitable for acne-prone skin and does not contain common pore-clogging ingredients like heavy oils or waxes.
Rescue Serum has a PAO (Period After Opening) of 12 months. The airless pump packaging helps protect the formula from air exposure and contamination, extending its shelf life compared to open jar or dropper packaging. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. With regular use of 1–2 pumps daily, a 30ml bottle typically lasts approximately 2–3 months.
Verdict: Shani Darden Rescue Serum is a thoughtfully formulated, premium treatment serum that delivers on its promise to brighten, soothe, and even out skin tone. The 10% Azelaic Complex (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate) offers a gentler alternative to pure azelaic acid while still providing meaningful brightening and anti-blemish results. The clean, minimal 22-ingredient formula with soothing botanicals and hydrating actives makes it ideal for sensitive, acne-prone, and hyperpigmentation-prone skin — including during pregnancy. The main drawback is the premium price point ($68 for 30ml), especially when more affordable azelaic acid options exist. However, if you value an elegant, gentle, multi-benefit serum backed by a top esthetician's expertise, Rescue Serum justifies its price with a truly luxurious experience and proven results.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 2 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 2 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 3 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
|
|
|
| 0 |
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin Conditioning
|
Redness
Irritation
Dark Spots
|
|
| 1 |
Maltodextrin
Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Hair Conditioning, Binding Agent, Binding, Film Forming, Absorbent, Suspending Agent - Nonsurfactant
|
|
|
| 1 |
1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
|