Retinol Serum
Retinol Serum
Product Description
Product overview
A lightweight, time-release retinol gel serum formulated by board-certified dermatologist Dr. Sandra Lee (Dr. Pimple Popper). Delivers approximately 1% retinol equivalent through the night to smooth texture, unclog pores, and reduce fine lines — without the harsh dryness typical of retinoids.
Time-Release Delivery
Proprietary system activates retinol gradually through the night to minimize irritation while maximizing overnight resurfacing.
Texture & feel
SENSORYTime-Release Delivery
Proprietary system activates retinol gradually through the night to minimize irritation while maximizing overnight resurfacing.
Triple Peptide Complex
Three retinol-mimicking peptides (Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Pentapeptide-17, Tetrapeptide-13) boost collagen stimulation alongside retinol.
Dual Vitamin C Forms
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbyl Linoleate brighten skin, reduce acne lesions, and enhance the anti-aging effects of retinol.
Hydration Support
Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, and Allantoin counteract the drying effects of retinol to keep skin calm, hydrated, and comfortable.
Safety & compatibility
SAFENot recommended. Contains retinol, a vitamin A derivative that may pose risks during pregnancy. Consult your physician before use.
Not fungal acne safe. Contains Polysorbate 80, Ethyl Linoleate, Lysophosphatidic Acid, and myristoyl peptides that may feed Malassezia yeast.
Rated 1/5. Oil-free, silicone-based gel formulation is unlikely to clog pores. Well-suited for acne-prone skin types.
Retinol increases photosensitivity. Use only at night and always apply SPF 30+ sunscreen during the day while using this product.
Free from common allergens, parabens, sulfates, harsh alcohols, and added fragrances. No known major allergens in the formula.
Initial breakouts (purging) are normal for the first 2–4 weeks as retinol accelerates cell turnover. This is temporary and expected.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSRetinol ~1% Eq.Proven
The gold-standard OTC anti-aging active. This vitamin A derivative stimulates cell turnover, boosts collagen production, regulates sebum, and fades dark spots. SLMD uses a time-release delivery system to reduce irritation.
- Clinical data: Retinol is 10–20x less potent than tretinoin but with significantly fewer side effects
- Cell turnover: Promotes shedding of dead skin cells to reveal fresher, smoother skin beneath
- Collagen: Stimulates fibroblast activity to improve firmness and reduce fine lines over 8–12 weeks
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) Vitamin CProven
A stable, skin-friendly vitamin C derivative that brightens, protects against free radicals, and has shown promising acne-fighting properties when combined with retinol.
- Study (2009): 5% SAP combined with 0.2% retinol reduced inflammatory acne lesions by 63% after 8 weeks
- Stability: More stable than pure ascorbic acid — less prone to oxidation in formulation
- Collagen support: Promotes collagen synthesis and protects against UV-induced free radical damage
Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 PeptidePromising
A retinol-mimicking peptide (trade name Retinopeptide 189) that upregulates 16 of the same genes as retinoic acid, boosting collagen and cell turnover without the irritation associated with traditional retinoids.
- Gene expression: Upregulates 16 out of 21 retinoic-acid-responsive genes in gene array screening
- Collagen boost: 10% concentration increased collagen-1 by 43% in ex-vivo testing, comparable to 0.1% retinoic acid
- Tolerability: Designed to deliver retinoid-like benefits without stinging or irritation
Sodium Hyaluronate HA SaltProven
The sodium salt form of hyaluronic acid with a smaller molecular weight for better skin penetration. Attracts and holds up to 1000x its weight in water, keeping skin plump and hydrated.
- Hydration: Acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin to counteract retinol-induced dryness
- Plumping: Temporarily fills in fine lines by hydrating the skin surface and deeper layers
Allantoin + Panthenol Soothing DuoProven
Two calming ingredients that work together to soothe irritation and strengthen the skin barrier. Allantoin promotes skin healing while Panthenol (provitamin B5) deeply moisturizes and reduces redness.
- Barrier support: Panthenol improves skin barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss
- Anti-irritation: Allantoin is a well-known skin protectant that calms retinol-related sensitivity
29 ingredients
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone, Laureth-23, Laureth-4, Pentylene Glycol, Acetyl CarboxyMethyl Cocyl Glycine, Retinyl Safflowerate, Polysorbate 80, Retinol, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-13, Lysophosphatidic Acid, Ascorbyl Linoleate, Ethyl Linoleate, Ethyl Flaxseedate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Panthenol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, Tromethamine.
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse at night only. Apply after cleansing and toning, before moisturizer. Pair with SPF 30+ every morning.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse Your Face
Start with a gentle cleanser in the evening to remove makeup, oil, and impurities. Pat dry with a clean towel.
Apply a Thin Layer
Dispense a pea-sized amount and spread a thin, even layer across the entire face. Avoid the eye area and lips.
Follow with Moisturizer
Once the serum absorbs (30–60 seconds), apply a hydrating moisturizer to lock in moisture and reduce potential irritation.
Build Up Gradually
New to retinol? Start with 1–2 times per week for the first 2 weeks. If no irritation occurs, gradually increase to nightly use.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have adult acne and want to address breakouts + early signs of aging
- You want a retinol that's less irritating than prescription tretinoin
- You have oily or combination skin and need a lightweight, oil-free formula
- You're new to retinol and want a time-release formula for gentler introduction
- You want a multi-tasking nighttime serum (retinol + vitamin C + peptides)
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding (retinol is not recommended)
- You have fungal acne — this formula is not Malassezia safe
- You have very sensitive or reactive skin (brand advises caution)
- You have very dry skin and need a richer, more emollient formula
- You want a higher-strength retinoid (consider prescription tretinoin)
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight gel absorbs quickly without adding shine. Retinol helps regulate sebum production and refine enlarged pores.
Balances well across oily and dry zones. Non-greasy formula treats T-zone congestion without over-drying cheeks.
Ideal maintenance serum for normal skin. Supports cell turnover, prevents signs of aging, and keeps complexion radiant.
Proceed with care. Retinol may increase dryness and flaking. Always pair with a rich, barrier-supporting moisturizer on top.
Not recommended by the brand for sensitive skin. The retinol concentration may cause redness, stinging, and prolonged irritation.
Oil-free, non-comedogenic formula designed with acne in mind. Retinol unclogs pores and normalizes cell shedding to prevent breakouts.
Results timeline
MONTH 3–6Adjustment & Possible Purging
Skin begins adjusting to retinol. Mild dryness, flaking, or temporary breakouts (purging) may occur as cell turnover accelerates. Texture starts feeling smoother to the touch.
70% experience initial purgingSmoother Texture & Brighter Tone
Purging subsides for most users. Skin looks visibly brighter and feels softer. Pores appear slightly more refined and overall complexion is more even.
60% notice brighter skinDark Spots Begin to Fade
Post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation begin to lighten noticeably. Breakouts become less frequent. Fine lines appear softened, especially around the forehead and eyes.
75% see reduced dark spotsVisible Anti-Aging & Clarity
Significant improvement in fine lines, wrinkles, and overall skin clarity. Pores look noticeably smaller. Complexion is more uniform and resilient. Full results from consistent retinol use emerge.
85% report clearer, firmer skinRatings by platform
3K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Time-release formula minimizes typical retinol irritation and dryness
- Multi-active approach: retinol + vitamin C + peptides + hyaluronic acid in one product
- Lightweight gel texture absorbs quickly without greasy residue
- Formulated by a board-certified dermatologist (Dr. Sandra Lee)
- Effective at smoothing texture and fading post-acne dark spots
- Paraben-free, fragrance-free, oil-free — great for acne-prone routines
- Affordable price point for a derm-formulated retinol serum
Criticized
- Not suitable for pregnancy, breastfeeding, or fungal acne sufferers
- Some users report initial purging and dryness in the first 2 weeks
- Too drying for very dry skin without a rich moisturizer on top
- Silicone-heavy base may feel slippery or pill under certain moisturizers
- Not recommended for sensitive skin by the brand itself
- Smaller bottle (1.5 fl oz) than some competitors at the same price
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Pure retinol in a squalane oil base — simpler 8-ingredient formula without peptides or vitamin C. More oily texture but strong anti-aging results at a fraction of the price.
Contains encapsulated retinol with niacinamide and 3 essential ceramides for barrier repair. More hydrating but lacks the peptide complex and vitamin C found in SLMD.
Features Granactive Retinoid (HPR) which binds directly to retinoid receptors without conversion. Different retinoid technology, potentially less irritating but fewer multi-active ingredients.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Keep the cap tightly closed. Refrigeration is not required but can extend potency.
Opaque squeeze tube that protects retinol from light and air degradation
Yes — 1.5 fl oz (44ml) is under the 100ml / 3.4 oz TSA carry-on limit
Frequently asked questions
FAQNo. SLMD Retinol Serum contains retinol, a vitamin A derivative. Retinoids have been linked to potential risks for fetal development. The brand explicitly advises consulting a physician before using this product if you are pregnant, planning to become pregnant, or breastfeeding. You should discontinue use and switch to pregnancy-safe alternatives like azelaic acid or niacinamide.
No. This serum is not fungal acne safe. It contains several ingredients that may feed Malassezia yeast, including Polysorbate 80, Ethyl Linoleate, Lysophosphatidic Acid, and three myristoyl peptides (Nonapeptide-3, Pentapeptide-17, Tetrapeptide-13). If you have fungal acne, look for a simpler retinol formula without these triggers, such as The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane.
This product already contains both retinol and vitamin C (as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate), so you do not need additional retinol or vitamin C in the same routine step. Avoid layering other retinoids on top of this serum. AHAs and BHAs can be used on alternate nights rather than the same night as retinol, to prevent over-exfoliation and irritation. Start slowly and monitor your skin's tolerance.
This serum is best suited for normal, combination, and oily skin types, including acne-prone skin. The brand specifically recommends that dry skin users proceed with care and that sensitive skin users may want to consider other options. Its lightweight, oil-free gel texture works exceptionally well for those who struggle with excess oil and breakouts.
Most users report noticing smoother, brighter skin within 3–4 weeks of consistent nightly use. Improvement in dark spots and hyperpigmentation typically becomes visible at 6–8 weeks. Meaningful anti-aging results — such as reduced fine lines, improved firmness, and smaller-looking pores — generally emerge after 3–6 months of regular use. Be patient and consistent.
Apply at night only, after cleansing and toning. It goes on as a treatment serum (Step 3) before your moisturizer. In the morning, skip the retinol and apply your daytime products including SPF 30 or higher sunscreen. Do not combine with other active exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs) on the same night until your skin is fully adjusted.
This serum has a low comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. It is oil-free and primarily silicone-based, which means it is unlikely to clog pores. In fact, retinol actively helps unclog pores by normalizing cell shedding inside the pore lining. This makes it particularly well-suited for acne-prone skin that is concerned about breakouts.
The estimated Period After Opening (PAO) is 12 months. However, since retinol degrades with exposure to light, heat, and air, store the product in a cool, dry place with the cap tightly closed. If the product changes color (turns yellow or brown) or develops an unusual smell, it may have degraded and should be replaced.
Verdict: SLMD Retinol Resurfacing Serum is a well-formulated, derm-backed nighttime serum that punches above its price point. The time-release retinol system, triple peptide complex, and dual vitamin C forms make it a genuinely multi-active treatment — not just a retinol in a base. It excels for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin types looking to address both breakouts and early signs of aging. However, it falls short for those with fungal acne, sensitive skin, or anyone pregnant or breastfeeding. At $35 for 1.5 fl oz, it offers solid value compared to premium retinol serums, though budget-conscious shoppers can find simpler alternatives for less.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 2 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 5 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 3 |
Cyclopentasiloxane
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Butylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscositydecreasing Agent
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Dipropylene Glycol
Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking, Viscosity Controlling
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|