Sébium Sensitive
Sébium Sensitive
Product Description
Product overview
Bioderma Sébium Sensitive is a lightweight, fast-absorbing soothing moisturizer formulated specifically for sensitive, weakened acne-prone skin. Powered by patented SeboRestore Technology™ (Bakuchiol + Fluidactiv™) and the Inflastop™ complex, it rebalances sebum quality, calms redness, and deeply hydrates without clogging pores — making it an ideal companion for harsh acne treatments like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide.
Bakuchiol Power
Natural, gentle retinol alternative that targets blemishes, inflammation, and uneven tone without irritation.
Texture & feel
SENSORYBakuchiol Power
Natural, gentle retinol alternative that targets blemishes, inflammation, and uneven tone without irritation.
SeboRestore Technology™
Patented Fluidactiv™ + Bakuchiol complex biologically rebalances sebum quality to prevent new blemishes.
Inflastop™ Complex
Targets inflamed spots and redness that could otherwise leave post-acne marks on sensitive skin.
High-Glycerin Hydration
Delivers 12+ hour moisture retention — crucial for skin dried out by acne treatments like isotretinoin or BPO.
D.A.F. Patent
Dermatological Autonomy Factor raises skin's tolerance threshold to strengthen defences against external stress.
Mattifying Microbeads
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer microspheres absorb excess oil and leave a soft-focus, non-greasy finish.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEClinically tested and confirmed not to clog pores — safe for acne-prone skin.
Validated under dermatological control on sensitive and acne-prone skin types.
Contains Bakuchiol — while plant-derived, safety during pregnancy is not conclusively established. Consult your OB-GYN.
Contains Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Coco-Caprylate/Caprate — may feed Malassezia yeast.
Parfum is listed (last in INCI, so low %). Ultra-sensitive skin may prefer a fragrance-free option.
Specifically formulated to pair with topical anti-acne medications like adapalene, tretinoin, or benzoyl peroxide.
No drying alcohols, parabens, sulfates, or essential oils in the formulation.
Suitable for teens and adults alike (12+). Ideal for adolescent acne and adult hormonal breakouts.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSBakuchiol ~0.5–1%Proven
The star active — a plant-derived compound extracted from Psoralea corylifolia (Babchi) seeds. Often called "nature's retinol," it delivers retinol-like benefits without the irritation, sun sensitivity, or pregnancy risk of traditional retinoids.
- Clinical Study (2018): A 12-week double-blind trial on 44 participants found bakuchiol comparable to retinol in reducing wrinkles and photoaging, with significantly less irritation.
- Anti-Acne: 1% bakuchiol showed 57% acne reduction in 6 weeks; 67% reduction when combined with salicylic acid.
- Mechanism: Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial action targeting C. acnes bacteria.
Zinc Gluconate ~1–2%Proven
A zinc salt widely recognized in dermatology for sebum regulation, antibacterial action, and wound healing. Especially effective for inflammatory acne and post-breakout recovery.
- Sebum Control: Zinc acts as a 5α-reductase inhibitor, reducing sebum production at the source.
- Antibacterial: Targets C. acnes, the bacteria responsible for inflammatory breakouts.
- Healing: Stimulates antioxidant enzyme systems and supports skin repair in the proliferation phase.
Glycerin ~10–15%Proven
Listed as the 2nd ingredient (after water), indicating a high concentration. Glycerin is a humectant that draws water into the skin from both deeper layers and the environment, providing immediate and lasting hydration.
- Brand Claim (Bioderma): Moisturizes for more than 12 hours in clinical testing.
- Why It Matters: Acne-prone skin using topical retinoids or BPO is often dehydrated and compromised — glycerin restores the barrier without heaviness.
- Safety: Skin-identical molecule with no known irritation concerns.
Glycyrrhetinic Acid (Enoxolone) <1%Proven
Derived from licorice root, this is the core of the Inflastop™ complex. A powerful anti-inflammatory that reduces redness, swelling, and discomfort on reactive skin.
- Action: Inhibits inflammatory enzymes similar to hydrocortisone but without steroid side effects.
- Redness Reduction: Bioderma clinical data shows -71% facial redness after 28 days of use.
- Pairs With: Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract to amplify the soothing effect.
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer ~3–5%Proven
Porous spherical microbeads that sit on the skin's surface. The 3rd-listed ingredient, giving the cream its signature silky, blurring, matte finish without powder-like heaviness.
- Oil Absorption: Soaks up excess sebum throughout the day for a non-shiny look.
- Soft-Focus: Scatters light to minimize the appearance of pores and fine lines.
- Makeup Base: Creates a smooth primer-like effect under foundation.
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract <1%Promising
Brown seaweed extract known for anti-inflammatory and barrier-strengthening properties. Contributes to the calming effect on compromised skin.
- Antioxidant: Rich in polyphenols that neutralize free radicals.
- Barrier Support: Helps reinforce the skin's natural lipid barrier.
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract <0.5%Promising
A medicinal herb that works synergistically with enoxolone in the Inflastop™ complex to reduce inflammation and soothe irritated skin.
- Anti-Inflammatory: Reduces cytokine-mediated redness and heat sensations.
- Antioxidant: Protects against environmental oxidative damage.
Fructooligosaccharides (Prebiotic) <1%Promising
A prebiotic sugar that nourishes the skin's microbiome — key for acne-prone skin, where microbial imbalance contributes to breakouts.
- Microbiome: Supports beneficial bacteria while discouraging pathogenic growth.
- Hydration: Also functions as a humectant.
25 ingredients
Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Zinc Gluconate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Polyacrylate, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Bakuchiol, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Mannitol, Xylitol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Rhamnose, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Fructooligosaccharides, Fragrance (Parfum). [BI 728]
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse as your final leave-on moisturizer step, morning and/or evening. Applyafter any active acne treatments andbefore SPF. Bioderma recommends pairing with Sébium Foaming Gel or Sébium H2O Micellar Water for cleansing.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse Thoroughly
Wash your face with a gentle cleanser (Sébium Foaming Gel or Sébium H2O recommended). Pat dry.
Apply Active Treatments First
If using prescription acne treatments (adapalene, tretinoin, BPO), apply them to clean, dry skin and wait 5–10 minutes.
Dispense a Pea-Sized Amount
Squeeze a small amount onto your fingertips. A little goes a long way with this concentrated formula.
Massage Gently
Apply to face and neck using upward circular motions. Focus on areas with redness, dryness, or breakouts.
Wait Before Makeup or SPF
Let absorb for ~30 seconds — the matte finish makes it an excellent makeup base. Always follow with SPF in the morning.
Frequency
Use 1–2 times daily (AM and/or PM). Safe for long-term continuous use.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have acne-prone skin that's also sensitive, red, or reactive
- Your skin is being dried out by retinoids, adapalene, or benzoyl peroxide
- You want a retinol alternative that's pregnancy-gentler (bakuchiol)
- You have combination-to-oily skin that still needs real hydration
- You need a non-greasy makeup base that controls shine
- You prefer French pharmacy dermocosmetic brands
- You're a teen or adult dealing with adolescent or hormonal acne
Consider alternatives if:
- You have fungal acne (Malassezia) — contains triglycerides/esters
- You have very dry skin needing richer occlusion
- You're strictly fragrance-free (contains low % parfum)
- You're pregnant and want to avoid all retinol-like actives
- You have severe cystic acne requiring prescription-only treatment
- You want a 50ml+ size — only available in 30ml tube
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESMattifying microbeads and zinc gluconate absorb excess oil without stripping — the formula is specifically designed for oily, sebum-prone skin.
Lightweight gel-cream balances both dry patches and oily zones — ideal for T-zone shine with dehydrated cheeks.
Built around sensitive acne-prone skin — Inflastop™ reduces redness by 71% in 28 days. Low fragrance level, alcohol-free.
Non-comedogenic, bakuchiol + zinc targets active breakouts and post-acne marks. Clinically tested alongside anti-acne treatments.
Hydrates well via glycerin, but the light gel-cream texture may not provide enough occlusion for very dry skin. Layer with a richer cream if needed.
A pleasant everyday moisturizer, though the anti-blemish actives are best appreciated by those with active breakouts or oil concerns.
Results timeline
56 DAYSInstant Comfort & Matte Finish
Skin feels soothed and hydrated within seconds. The mattifying microbeads deliver a soft-focus, non-shiny finish that works as a makeup base.
Reported by most usersSustained Hydration
Bioderma's clinical testing shows moisturization lasting over 12 hours per application, measurable on dry/dehydrated skin.
Clinically measured (n=10)Reduced Tightness & Stinging
Noticeable relief from the dryness, tightness, and discomfort caused by topical retinoids, BPO, or other acne treatments.
89% of users report soothing all dayRedness & Sensitivity Reduced
Visible reduction in facial redness and sensations of discomfort. Skin appears calmer and more even-toned.
-71% redness · -92% tightnessFewer Inflammatory Blemishes
When paired with topical anti-acne treatment, SeboRestore Technology™ helps reduce new blemish formation and improves tolerance to medicated regimens.
Tested on 33 volunteers aged 14–31Ratings by platform
3K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Bakuchiol = gentler alternative to retinol
- Excellent companion to acne medications (reduces irritation)
- Lightweight, fast-absorbing gel-cream texture
- Works as a matte makeup base
- Clinically proven -71% redness in 28 days
- Non-comedogenic and dermatologist-tested
- Soothes within minutes — ideal for reactive skin
- Trusted French pharmacy brand (30+ years)
Criticized
- Only 30ml — runs out quickly for full-face use
- Contains fragrance (parfum at end of INCI)
- Not fungal-acne safe (triglycerides/esters)
- May be too light for genuinely dry skin
- Pricier than drugstore alternatives
- Results on hyperpigmentation take 8+ weeks
- Limited U.S. availability (mostly EU/UK)
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPESDelivers bakuchiol + squalane in a light cream at a fraction of the price. Missing Bioderma's zinc gluconate and Inflastop™ complex, so less targeted for sensitive acne. Fragrance-free.
French pharmacy alternative with niacinamide, LHA, and zinc PCA. Slightly more actives-forward (uses salicylic analogs) and less soothing-focused. Better on clogged pores; Bioderma wins on sensitive skin comfort.
Layer The Ordinary's Bakuchiol 0.5% serum under their NMF moisturizer for a bakuchiol-forward routine at half the cost. Requires two steps and lacks the mattifying/oil-control element.
Also French pharmacy, designed to soothe skin dried by acne medications. Uses thermal spring water instead of bakuchiol — more barrier-focused, less anti-blemish action.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDEStorage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening (12M symbol on packaging)
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Room temperature is ideal.
Sleek aluminum/plastic squeeze tube — 100% recyclable. Hygienic dispensing with no air exposure.
Yes — 30ml is well under the 100ml airline carry-on limit. Compact tube fits any toiletry bag.
Frequently asked questions
FAQUse with caution. Sébium Sensitive contains Bakuchiol, a plant-derived compound that behaves similarly to retinol. While bakuchiol is generally considered gentler than retinoids and not listed as a banned pregnancy ingredient, most dermatologists recommend avoiding retinol-like actives during pregnancy and breastfeeding as a precaution. The formula also contains a small amount of fragrance. Always consult your OB-GYN or dermatologist before use during pregnancy.
No. The formula contains Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, which are medium-chain fatty acid esters that can feed Malassezia yeast. If you have confirmed fungal acne (pityrosporum folliculitis), opt for a fungal-acne-safe moisturizer instead (look for only squalane, glycerin, and petrolatum-based options).
Yes — this is actually one of its primary design goals. Sébium Sensitive was clinically tested alongside topical anti-acne treatments (adapalene, tretinoin, BPO) and helps reduce the dryness and irritation those cause. Apply your active treatment first to clean, dry skin, wait 5–10 minutes, then layer Sébium Sensitive on top. With vitamin C, use vitamin C in AM and Sébium Sensitive after. With AHA/BHA toners, use the toner first and this cream as your moisturizer step.
It's formulated specifically for combination-to-oily skin that is also sensitive, reactive, or weakened by acne treatments. It's ideal for teens and adults with acne-prone skin who experience redness, stinging, or dryness from medicated regimens. For very dry skin, the formula may feel too light — layer a richer cream on top if needed.
Soothing and hydration effects are felt immediately. Bioderma's clinical studies show measurable results within 28 days: -71% facial redness, -92% sensation of tightness, and 89% of users reporting all-day comfort. For reducing inflammatory blemishes and improving tolerance to acne medications, allow 56 days (8 weeks) of consistent twice-daily use.
Apply it as your final leave-on moisturizer — after cleansing, toning, and any active treatments (retinoids, BHA, vitamin C). In the morning, follow with SPF. At night, it's your final step. Bioderma recommends pairing it with Sébium Foaming Gel or Sébium H2O Micellar Water for cleansing.
No — it's clinically tested and confirmed non-comedogenic. Comedogenic rating estimated at 1/5 based on the full ingredient list. The entire Bioderma Sébium range is formulated to not clog or block pores, making it suitable for acne-prone skin. The formula also features oil-absorbing methyl methacrylate microbeads to actively reduce surface oil throughout the day.
12 months after opening, as indicated by the 12M PAO (Period After Opening) symbol on the packaging. The squeeze-tube design minimizes air exposure and extends freshness. Store at room temperature away from direct sunlight. Given the 30ml size and recommended twice-daily use, most users finish the tube in 2–3 months — well within the PAO window.
Verdict: Bioderma Sébium Sensitive is a standout French pharmacy moisturizer that solves a very specific problem: sensitive, irritated skin that's also fighting acne. The combination ofBakuchiol (a gentler retinol alternative),Zinc Gluconate, and the patentedInflastop™ complex delivers measurable clinical results — -71% redness and -92% tightness in 28 days. It's a rare moisturizer that genuinely complements harsh acne treatments rather than competing with them. The 30ml size and low fragrance content are minor drawbacks, but for the targeted use case, this is one of the most thoughtfully formulated options available. Highly recommended for teens and adults navigating reactive acne-prone skin.
Product Overview
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Viscosity Increasing Agent, Film Forming
|
|
|
| 1 |
Dipropylene Glycol
Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking, Viscosity Controlling
|
|
|
| 3 |
Zinc Gluconate
Skin Conditioning, Cosmetic Biocide, Deodorant
|
|







