Soothing Malassezia Moisturizer
Soothing Malassezia Moisturizer
Product Description
Product overview
A steroid-free, malassezia-safe moisturizer by Dermazen formulated with clinical-grade Urea 10%, Niacinamide 5%, and Lactic Acid 5% to deeply hydrate, calm redness, and gently exfoliate — ideal for seborrheic dermatitis, fungal acne, rosacea, and flaky, itchy skin. Free from fatty acids, esters, and fungus-feeding oils.
100% Malassezia-Safe Formula
Contains zero fatty acids, esters, or oils the Malassezia fungus can feed on. MCT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is a unique exception — its antifungal C8 and C10 fatty acids actively inhibit fungal growth.
Texture & feel
SENSORY100% Malassezia-Safe Formula
Contains zero fatty acids, esters, or oils the Malassezia fungus can feed on. MCT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is a unique exception — its antifungal C8 and C10 fatty acids actively inhibit fungal growth.
Clinical-Grade Active Concentrations
Urea 10%, Niacinamide 5%, and Lactic Acid 5% are all at clinically effective levels — rare to find combined in a single OTC moisturizer targeted at sensitive, reactive skin.
Steroid-Free Relief
Provides lasting barrier repair and anti-inflammatory benefits without hydrocortisone or prescription-strength steroids — no risk of skin thinning or rebound flares with long-term use.
Minimalist 17-Ingredient Formula
Intentionally short ingredient list — no fillers, fragrances, dyes, or preservatives that irritate reactive skin. Every ingredient earns its place with a defined function.
Frankincense Oil (Boswellia) Soothing
Cold-pressed Boswellia Carterii Gum Oil delivers potent anti-inflammatory boswellic acids to visibly calm redness, soothe itching, and support barrier recovery.
Triple Hydration Complex
Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate), Glycerin, and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice work synergistically across all skin layers — from surface-level plumping to deep cellular hydration.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEFormulated without any oils, fatty acids, or esters that Malassezia can metabolize. MCT oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is antifungal — not a trigger. This is one of the most rigorously malassezia-safe moisturizers available over-the-counter.
No retinoids, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens. However, Lactic Acid 5% (an AHA) is generally considered low-risk in small amounts, but high-concentration AHAs are typically avoided in the first trimester. Benzyl Alcohol is a mild preservative and generally regarded as safe. Consult your OB/GYN before use during pregnancy.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT) has a comedogenic rating of 1. No known pore-clogging oils or heavy butters. Safe for acne-prone and oily skin types.
Free from fragrances, dyes, parabens, sulfates, and silicones. Rated 91% allergen-free by Mayo Clinic SkinSAFE standards. Gentle enough for use around the eyes and ears.
Urea and Niacinamide are both validated in clinical literature for seborrheic dermatitis management. Boswellia oil provides anti-inflammatory support without triggering rosacea flares.
Used at low, cosmetic-grade concentrations as a preservative. Benzyl alcohol is derived from jasmine and is considered safe at levels used in skincare. Those with severe benzyl alcohol sensitivity should patch test first.
Trace natural allergens from Frankincense (Boswellia) essential oil. Declared on the label as required by cosmetic regulations. Extremely unlikely to cause reactions at these trace concentrations, but those with known terpene sensitivity should patch test.
Free from phthalates, bisphenols, parabens, halogenated phenols (triclosan), benzophenone-3, and PFAS compounds — all ingredients of concern for teen skin and hormonal health.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSUrea 10%Proven
A naturally occurring compound in the skin's NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), Urea at 10% functions as a powerful keratolytic and humectant. It breaks down the protein filaggrin to release bound amino acids, loosens corneocyte bonds for gentle exfoliation, and pulls water into the skin from deeper layers — all without physical abrasion.
- Clinical Evidence: Studies show Urea 10% significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improves skin barrier function in atopic dermatitis and seborrheic dermatitis patients.
- Antimicrobial Action: Urea enhances the skin's production of antimicrobial peptides (cathelicidin/LL-37), providing an additional defense against Malassezia overgrowth.
- Keratolytic Threshold: At 10%, Urea reaches the threshold for meaningful exfoliation of flaky, thickened skin without the irritation associated with higher concentrations (20–40%).
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) 5%Proven
One of the most versatile and well-researched actives in dermatology. At 5%, Niacinamide works as an anti-inflammatory, skin-brightening, pore-minimizing, and barrier-strengthening agent. It is simultaneously gentle and effective — suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and rosacea-prone.
- Barrier Repair: Stimulates ceramide and fatty acid synthesis in the skin's natural lipid barrier (without providing exogenous fatty acids that feed Malassezia).
- Anti-Inflammatory: Inhibits transfer of melanosomes and suppresses cytokine-driven inflammation — especially relevant for seborrheic dermatitis and post-acne redness.
- Sebum Regulation: Studies at 2–5% concentrations demonstrate measurable reduction in sebum production, beneficial for oily and combination skin types.
Lactic Acid 5%Proven
A larger-molecule alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from milk. At 5%, Lactic Acid provides gentle chemical exfoliation by loosening the intercellular "glue" holding dead skin cells together. Its larger molecular size means shallower penetration compared to glycolic acid — making it effective yet less irritating for sensitive and reactive skin types.
- Exfoliation: Accelerates skin cell turnover, clearing away the dead skin buildup and flaking associated with seborrheic dermatitis and malassezia-driven conditions.
- Natural Humectant: As a component of the skin's NMF (alongside Urea), Lactic Acid simultaneously hydrates while it exfoliates.
- pH Synergy: Formulated at an appropriate pH alongside Urea, the combined keratolytic activity of these two ingredients is greater than either alone.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice In FormulaProven
200x concentrated Aloe Vera — a rich source of polysaccharides, vitamins A, C, and E, and acemannan. Aloe is one of the most clinically validated soothing ingredients in dermatology, with demonstrated anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, and antioxidant activity.
- Anti-Inflammatory: Inhibits prostaglandin synthesis and reduces levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines, providing rapid calming of redness and irritation.
- Humectant: Aloe's polysaccharide matrix draws and retains water in the skin without occlusivity — ideal for oily and acne-prone skin types.
- Malassezia Safe: Unlike many botanical extracts, Aloe Vera does not contain fatty acids that can feed Malassezia fungus.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT) In FormulaProven
Medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) derived from coconut oil, but critically different from standard coconut oil. MCT is fractionated to contain only C8 (caprylic) and C10 (capric) fatty acids — the specific chain lengths that Malassezia cannot efficiently metabolize and that exhibit direct antifungal properties.
- Antifungal Activity: Caprylic acid (C8) has demonstrated in vitro antifungal activity against multiple Malassezia species, including M. furfur and M. globosa.
- Emollient: Provides a silky, lightweight skin feel and enhances the absorption and spreadability of water-soluble actives like Niacinamide and Urea.
- Low Comedogenic Rating: Rated 1/5 — does not clog pores and is well-tolerated by acne-prone and oily skin types.
Glycerin In FormulaProven
A cornerstone humectant in cosmetic science, Glycerin draws water from the environment and deeper skin layers into the stratum corneum. It also supports skin microbiome balance and has been shown to improve barrier function with repeated use.
- Humectancy: Highly effective at all humidity levels — more so than many synthetic humectants at equivalent concentrations.
- Microbiome Support: Research suggests Glycerin supports a healthy skin microbiome, potentially inhibiting pathogenic bacterial strains.
Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid) In FormulaProven
The sodium salt form of Hyaluronic Acid — smaller molecular weight allows better skin penetration than standard HA. Capable of holding up to 1,000x its weight in water, providing immediate plumping and long-lasting hydration.
- Multi-Layer Hydration: Sodium Hyaluronate's smaller molecular size allows it to penetrate into the epidermis, providing hydration at a deeper level than most HA formulations.
- Malassezia Safe: HA is a carbohydrate polymer — contains no fatty acids and does not feed fungal organisms.
Benzyl Alcohol PreservativePromising
A naturally derived preservative (found in jasmine, ylang ylang, and other botanicals) used at cosmetic-grade concentrations to protect the formula from microbial contamination. A safer alternative to parabens and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives.
- Preservation: Effective broad-spectrum preservative action at very low concentrations — keeps the product stable for its full PAO period.
- Safety: Rated safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) at concentrations up to 5%. Used well below this threshold in Dermazen's formula.
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum In FormulaProven
A natural polysaccharide derived from the guar bean, used as a thickening and texture-enhancing agent. Provides the cream's smooth, spreadable consistency without adding silicones or synthetic polymers.
- Texture Agent: Creates a pleasant, non-greasy skin feel and helps deliver actives uniformly across the skin surface.
- Film Former: Forms a light protective film that supports moisture retention without occluding pores.
Boswellia Carterii Gum Oil (Frankincense) In FormulaPromising
Cold-pressed oil from Boswellia Carterii resin, rich in boswellic acids — potent inhibitors of 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX), the enzyme responsible for inflammatory leukotriene synthesis. Provides a functional anti-inflammatory mechanism beyond simple soothing.
- Anti-Inflammatory: Boswellic acids (particularly AKBA) are among the most well-studied natural anti-inflammatory compounds, with direct relevance to skin inflammatory conditions.
- Barrier Support: Traditional use and emerging research suggest Boswellia supports wound healing and skin barrier restoration.
17 ingredients
Water (Aqua), Urea, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzyl Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Powder, Lactic Acid, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Xanthan Gum, Boswellia Carterii Gum Oil, Sapindus Mukorossi Fruit Extract, Sclerotium Gum, Pinene*, Limonene*
*Natural allergens from Boswellia essential oil
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply after water-based serums and treatments. In the AM, always follow with SPF — Lactic Acid 5% increases photosensitivity. In PM routines, this can be the final step. Pairs seamlessly with Dermazen's Calming Seborrheic Serum and Purifying Facial Cleanser as part of the complete Dermazen system.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse Your Face
Begin with a gentle, malassezia-safe cleanser. Pat skin dry — leave slightly damp for better humectant absorption. For best results, use Dermazen's Purifying Facial Cleanser.
Apply Any Treatments or Serums First
If using Dermazen's Calming Seborrheic Serum or other water-based treatments, apply and allow to absorb for 30–60 seconds before moisturizing.
Dispense a Pea-to-Dime Size Amount
A small amount goes a long way. Start with a pea-sized amount and increase as needed. The lightweight texture spreads easily across the full face, T-zone, and affected areas.
Apply Generously to Face — Focus on T-Zone
Massage gently into skin using upward, circular motions. Pay extra attention to areas prone to flaking: eyebrows, sides of the nose, forehead, and around the hairline. Suitable for use around the eyes and ears.
Allow to Absorb — Then Follow with SPF (AM)
Allow 30 seconds to absorb before applying sunscreen in the morning. In the evening, this can be used as the final step in your routine. Use morning and evening for best results — twice daily application helps restore skin comfort faster.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have seborrheic dermatitis, fungal acne, or dandruff on your face
- Your skin is chronically flaky, itchy, or red without a clear cause
- You've had reactions to mainstream moisturizers containing fatty acids or rich plant oils
- You want clinical-grade actives (Urea, Niacinamide, AHA) in one moisturizer
- You're looking for a steroid-free alternative to hydrocortisone cream
- You have oily, combination, or acne-prone skin needing hydration without breakouts
- You want a minimal, clean formula without fillers or irritants
Consider alternatives if:
- You have extremely dry or dehydrated skin needing rich occlusives (shea butter, ceramides)
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding — consult your doctor first
- You prefer completely fragrance-free products with zero essential oils (trace Limonene/Pinene from Boswellia)
- You need a moisturizer with SPF protection built in
- You have a known allergy to benzyl alcohol or Boswellia
- Your skin does not have Malassezia-related concerns and you prefer richer barrier creams
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight, non-greasy formula absorbs quickly without adding shine. Niacinamide 5% helps regulate sebum production over time. MCT base won't clog pores.
Urea 10% and triple humectant complex provide significant hydration. Very dry skin may benefit from layering with a ceramide-based occlusive on top, especially in winter.
Balances moisture delivery across both oily and dry zones. Lightweight enough for T-zone while adequately hydrating drier cheek areas. Niacinamide controls shine in oily zones.
Fragrance-free, steroid-free, and minimal formula supports even reactive skin. Patch test recommended. Lactic Acid 5% may cause mild tingling initially on very compromised barriers.
Non-comedogenic (rating 1/5), fungal-acne safe, and pore-minimizing via Niacinamide. An ideal moisturizer for acne-prone skin that also needs hydration without triggering breakouts.
Specifically formulated for this condition. Urea + Lactic Acid exfoliate flakes; Niacinamide reduces redness; Boswellia calms inflammation; MCT inhibits Malassezia growth. This is the product's primary use case.
Results timeline
MONTH 2–3Immediate Soothing & Hydration
Skin feels immediately calmer, more comfortable, and less tight. Redness and itching sensations reduce noticeably within minutes of application. The lightweight texture absorbs without residue or greasiness.
90%+ noticed immediate comfort improvementReduction in Flaking & Visible Redness
Flaking begins to diminish as Lactic Acid 5% and Urea 10% loosen and remove dead skin buildup. Skin texture becomes smoother. Redness around the nose, eyebrows, and T-zone visibly improves. Some users report near-complete resolution of symptoms within this first week.
~75% noticed visible flake reduction in Week 1Sustained Barrier Repair & Tone Evening
Barrier function improves as Niacinamide stimulates ceramide production. Skin tone becomes more even as Lactic Acid 5% and Niacinamide 5% work on post-inflammatory discoloration. Sebum regulation becomes noticeable in oily skin types. Flare frequency begins to decrease.
~80% reported sustained improvement at 4 weeksLong-Term Symptom Control & Brighter Complexion
With consistent twice-daily use, most users experience extended periods of clear skin with minimal flares. Skin texture, tone, and barrier integrity are measurably improved. Pores appear minimized. Brightening effects from combined Niacinamide and Lactic Acid are evident.
~85% maintained clear skin with continued useRatings by platform
700+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- One of the only moisturizers specifically formulated for Malassezia overgrowth
- Clinical-grade Urea 10% + Niacinamide 5% + Lactic Acid 5% in one product
- Fast-acting — many users see flake reduction within 3–7 days
- Lightweight, non-greasy texture suitable for oily and combination skin
- Steroid-free, parabens-free, fragrance-free — excellent for sensitive skin
- Dermatologist-tested and backed by 60-day money-back guarantee
- Gentle enough for use around eyes, ears, and inside nostrils
- Minimal 17-ingredient formula — easy to patch test and identify reactions
- Free from fungus-feeding oils, esters, and fatty acids
- Small US-based brand with strong community reputation in seborrheic dermatitis groups
Criticized
- Small 2 fl oz (59 mL) size for $39.95 — higher cost-per-ml than drugstore alternatives
- Mild medicinal / herbal scent from Boswellia Frankincense oil
- Lactic Acid 5% may cause tingling or mild irritation on very compromised skin barriers
- Not ideal for very dry skin types needing rich occlusives (no ceramides or fatty acids)
- Trace Limonene and Pinene from Boswellia — not 100% essential-oil free
- Limited availability outside the US — international shipping costs can be high
- No SPF included — requires a separate sunscreen step for AM use
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Contains Salicylic Acid (BHA) + Urea + Niacinamide but uses fatty acid esters that are NOT malassezia-safe. Good for general flakiness and dry skin but will feed Malassezia fungus — unsuitable if that's your concern. Much larger size and lower cost per ml.
Matches on Urea 10% concentration and dry/flaky skin focus. However, contains fatty acids and emollients that are not Malassezia-safe. Lacks Niacinamide and Lactic Acid combination. Better for eczema/psoriasis than fungal-related flaking.
Higher Niacinamide concentration (12%) than Dermazen but lacks Urea 10% and Lactic Acid 5%. Generally malassezia-safe formula. Functions as a serum rather than a moisturizer — would need a separate malassezia-safe moisturizer alongside it. Good complementary option.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening. Benzyl Alcohol preservative system maintains product stability and microbial safety for the full PAO period when stored correctly.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. Avoid storing in humid bathrooms if possible. Keep lid tightly closed between uses.
Jar / screw-top container. Use a clean spatula or clean fingertips to dispense product to maintain hygiene and prevent contamination of the formula.
Yes — 2 fl oz (59 mL) is under the 100 mL TSA carry-on liquid limit. Suitable for air travel in standard toiletry bags.
Frequently asked questions
FAQUse with caution during pregnancy and breastfeeding, and always consult your OB/GYN before use. The formula does not contain retinoids, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens — the major categories of concern in pregnancy. Niacinamide 5% is widely considered safe. Glycerin, Aloe, and Hyaluronic Acid have no known concerns. The main consideration is Lactic Acid 5% (an AHA) — while generally regarded as low-risk in cosmetic concentrations, high-dose AHAs are often avoided in the first trimester as a precaution, and some practitioners recommend limiting AHA use throughout pregnancy. Benzyl Alcohol at cosmetic concentrations is generally considered safe. Frankincense (Boswellia) essential oil is sometimes listed as an ingredient to avoid during pregnancy in high concentrations; the trace amounts here from the Gum Oil are very low, but caution is advised. Always check with your healthcare provider.
Yes — this is one of the most rigorously Malassezia-safe moisturizers available without a prescription. The formula contains zero fatty acids, esters, polysorbates, or standard plant/seed oils that Malassezia fungus uses as food. The only oil present is Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT), which is uniquely safe: the fungus cannot efficiently metabolize its medium-chain fatty acids (C8 and C10), and these compounds have actually demonstrated antifungal activity against multiple Malassezia species in vitro. Benzyl Alcohol, Guar Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, and all other ingredients in this formula are considered safe for Malassezia-prone skin based on current scientific understanding.
This moisturizer already contains Lactic Acid 5% (an AHA), so avoid layering additional AHAs or BHAs in the same routine step without building up tolerance first — the combined exfoliation may be too intense for sensitive or reactive skin. Retinol can be used in the same routine but should be applied before the moisturizer, allowing it to absorb first. Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) at low pH is generally applied before this moisturizer — applying it after may reduce its effectiveness. Niacinamide 5% in this formula is compatible with most actives. If you're new to active ingredients, introduce one at a time and start with every other night to build tolerance. Always apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ in the morning when using this product, as Lactic Acid increases photosensitivity.
This moisturizer performs best for oily, combination, acne-prone, and seborrheic dermatitis-affected skin types. It is excellent for anyone dealing with Malassezia overgrowth, including fungal acne, scalp-to-face seborrheic dermatitis, and chronic redness/flaking around the nose, eyebrows, and T-zone. It is good for dry skin that also has inflammatory skin conditions, though very dry skin types (xerosis) may want to layer a richer occlusive on top in cold weather. Sensitive and reactive skin types generally tolerate it well due to the fragrance-free, minimal formula — though the Lactic Acid 5% warrants a patch test first on very compromised skin barriers.
Most users notice an immediate improvement in comfort, redness, and itching from the very first application. Visible reduction in flaking typically appears within 3–7 days of twice-daily use as Urea 10% and Lactic Acid 5% begin clearing away dead skin buildup. Significant improvement in skin tone, texture, and ongoing flare frequency is typically observed at 2–4 weeks. Long-term barrier repair and the full anti-inflammatory benefits of Niacinamide 5% and Boswellia oil become most evident at 6–12 weeks of consistent use. Some users with severe seborrheic dermatitis report dramatic results within just 3–6 days of starting the product.
Apply this moisturizer as Step 4 in your routine — after cleanser, toner (if used), and any water-based serums or treatments. It functions as your moisturizer/hydrating step and should be applied before sunscreen in the morning. In the evening, it can be the final step in your routine unless you use a separate occlusive or sleeping mask. For best results with Dermazen's system: use the Purifying Facial Cleanser first, apply the Calming Seborrheic Serum and allow to absorb, then apply this moisturizer. Always follow with SPF 30+ in the morning — Lactic Acid 5% increases your skin's sensitivity to UV radiation.
No — this moisturizer has a comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5 and is considered non-comedogenic. The only oil-derived ingredient is Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (MCT), which has a comedogenic rating of 1 and is well-tolerated by acne-prone and oily skin. The formula contains no silicones, waxes, heavy plant butters, or standard seed/nut oils that are common comedogenic culprits. Niacinamide 5% actually helps minimize the appearance of pores over time. This product is specifically designed not to clog pores — it is one of its primary design goals for Malassezia-affected skin types.
The Period After Opening (PAO) is 12 months. The Benzyl Alcohol preservative system maintains product safety and stability for the full year when stored properly. To extend the product's life: store in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight and heat; avoid introducing water or moisture into the jar; use a clean spatula or clean, dry fingertips to dispense. The 2 fl oz (59 mL) jar typically lasts approximately 2–3 months with twice-daily facial use, depending on the amount applied per application.
Verdict: The Dermazen Soothing Malassezia Moisturizer by Dermazen is a standout product in a deeply underserved category. For anyone struggling with seborrheic dermatitis, fungal acne, chronic facial flaking, or redness caused by Malassezia overgrowth, it addresses the root problem most mainstream moisturizers actually worsen. The combination ofUrea 10%, Niacinamide 5%, and Lactic Acid 5% — all at clinically effective concentrations — in a formula free from every fungus-feeding ingredient is genuinely rare. The minimalist 17-ingredient list, steroid-free design, and consistent user reports of rapid visible improvement make this one of the highest-value therapeutic moisturizers available without a prescription. The primary trade-offs are price-per-ml relative to general-purpose moisturizers, and the fact that very dry skin types may need a richer occlusive layered on top. If your skin condition is Malassezia-related, there is very little in OTC skincare that competes with what this formula offers.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 3 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 4 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 3 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 |
Urea
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Buffering
|
Hydrating
Texture
|
|
| 0 |
Lactic Acid
|
Brightening
Anti-Aging
|
|
| 0 |
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
Redness
Irritation
|
|
| 0 |
Jojoba Oil/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Esters
Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|