Teen Derm Gel
Teen Derm Gel
Product Description
Product overview
Isispharma Teen Derm Gel is the brand's No.1 bestselling exfoliating cleansing gel, specially formulated for combination to oily, acne-prone skin. Powered by the patented α-PURE complex — including 1% Salicylic Acid, Gluconolactone, Zinc PCA, Copper PCA, and Butyl Avocadate — it deeply cleanses pores, regulates excess sebum, gently exfoliates with biodegradable silica beads, and soothes with Boswellia Serrata Extract. Clinically proven to reduce blackheads and whiteheads by 16.3% after just 28 days of use.
Deep Pore Cleansing
A complex of gentle surfactants including Sodium Cocoamphoacetate and Sodium Coceth Sulfate lifts impurities, excess sebum, and dead cells from pores without stripping the skin barrier.
Texture & feel
SENSORYDeep Pore Cleansing
A complex of gentle surfactants including Sodium Cocoamphoacetate and Sodium Coceth Sulfate lifts impurities, excess sebum, and dead cells from pores without stripping the skin barrier.
Patented α-PURE Complex
Isispharma's proprietary multi-active complex combines Salicylic Acid, Gluconolactone, Zinc PCA, Copper PCA, and Butyl Avocadate for clinically proven anti-blemish action at every stage of imperfection formation.
Dual Exfoliation System
Biodegradable silica micro-beads offer gentle physical exfoliation, while 1% Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone provide chemical keratolytic action, removing dead cell buildup without irritating the skin.
Hydration-Balanced Formula
Glycerin, Xylitol complex (Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol), and Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids replenish lost moisture, keeping the skin hydrated and soothed even during active cleansing.
Boswellia Anti-Inflammatory
Boswellia Serrata Extract (Frankincense) soothes redness and inflammation associated with active acne lesions, reducing post-cleanse irritation and calming stressed skin.
Sebum Regulation via Avocado Esters
Butyl Avocadate inhibits the 5α-Reductase enzyme, limiting dihydrotestosterone-driven sebum overproduction at the source — a hormone-level approach to oiliness rather than just surface blotting.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains 1% Salicylic Acid, which is contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding due to potential endocrine-disrupting properties. Isispharma officially recommends avoiding this product during pregnancy. Use Teen Derm Gel Sensitive as an alternative.
Contains PEG-40 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, and PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate — fatty acid esters that may feed Malassezia yeast in sensitive individuals. As a rinse-off cleanser, exposure time is minimal, reducing risk significantly.
Dermatologically tested and officially labelled non-comedogenic by Isispharma. Key ingredients like Salicylic Acid, Zinc PCA, and Gluconolactone actively work against clogged pores. Comedogenic rating: 1/5.
As a rinse-off cleanser, it does not linger on the skin and is generally compatible with retinol, niacinamide, and Vitamin C serums applied afterward. Avoid pairing with additional leave-on BHA products to prevent over-exfoliation.
Preserved with Chlorphenesin and Caprylyl Glycol rather than parabens. No silicones in the formulation, making it a clean-leaning French pharmacy formula.
The formula includes Parfum, which may be a concern for very fragrance-sensitive individuals. However, as a rinse-off product, irritation risk from fragrance is considerably lower than with leave-on skincare.
Uses biodegradable silica (Hydrated Silica) micro-beads — not plastic microbeads. These are chemically inert and non-toxic for aquatic environments, making the product eco-conscious.
Due to EU cosmetics regulations around Salicylic Acid concentrations in rinse-off products, this specific formulation is not sold within the EU. Available internationally and through authorized global retailers.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSSalicylic Acid 1%Proven
A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) with over 2,000 years of use in skin care. Oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate into sebaceous follicles to dissolve the sebum and dead-cell plugs that cause blackheads, whiteheads, and inflammatory acne. Also provides keratolytic exfoliation of the stratum corneum.
- Concentration: 1% (confirmed by Isispharma brand documentation)
- Mechanism: Lipophilic BHA that dissolves intercellular lipids in follicular walls, enabling deep pore penetration
- Exfoliation: Keratolytic action loosens corneocyte bonds for smoother texture
- Clinical support: Numerous RCTs confirm Salicylic Acid 0.5–2% as effective for mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris
- SCCS status: Deemed safe at concentrations below 2% in cosmetics
Gluconolactone ~2–4%Proven
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that provides gentle chemical exfoliation complementary to Salicylic Acid. Unlike AHAs, Gluconolactone has a larger molecular structure that penetrates more slowly, making it far less irritating. It also acts as a humectant, chelating agent, and antioxidant — exfoliating while simultaneously protecting and hydrating.
- Type: Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) — gentler than AHAs, suitable for sensitive skin
- Exfoliation: Loosens dead cell accumulation on the surface without the stinging typical of glycolic acid
- Humectant function: Attracts and retains moisture in the upper skin layers
- Antioxidant: Chelates pro-oxidant metal ions that can trigger free-radical skin damage
Zinc PCA ~0.5–1%Proven
A zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA). Zinc has well-established anti-acne properties: it reduces sebaceous gland activity, inhibits the growth of Cutibacterium acnes (the primary acne bacterium), and delivers anti-inflammatory effects. The PCA carrier improves skin penetration and bioavailability compared to plain zinc salts.
- Sebum regulation: Inhibits 5α-Reductase, reducing androgen-driven sebum production
- Antimicrobial: Disrupts C. acnes proliferation in follicular microbiome
- Anti-inflammatory: Modulates cytokine-mediated inflammatory response in acne lesions
- NMF support: PCA is a natural moisturizing factor, aiding barrier hydration
Copper PCA ~0.1–0.5%Promising
Copper salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. Copper is an essential cofactor for enzymes involved in collagen and elastin synthesis, wound healing, and antimicrobial activity. Copper PCA specifically shows antimicrobial action against skin pathogens including Staphylococcus epidermidis, which plays a role in acne pathogenesis.
- Antimicrobial: Broad-spectrum activity against skin microbes implicated in acne
- Collagen support: Activates lysyl oxidase required for cross-linking collagen fibres
- Wound repair: Supports healing of post-acne micro-lesions and damaged skin
Butyl Avocadate ~0.5–1%Proven
An ester derived from avocado oil with over 95% purity, manufactured via green chemistry principles. Butyl Avocadate selectively inhibits the 5α-Reductase enzyme responsible for converting testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Since DHT is the primary hormone driving excess sebum secretion, this provides targeted hormonal sebum regulation.
- Mechanism: 5α-Reductase type I and II inhibitor → reduces DHT-driven sebocyte stimulation
- Origin: Plant-derived, green-chemistry produced — >95% purity
- Sebum reduction: Acts at the hormonal level rather than just surface blotting
- Clinical data: Supported by Isispharma's own proprietary clinical evidence within the α-PURE complex
Boswellia Serrata Extract trace–~0.5%Promising
Frankincense tree resin extract, rich in boswellic acids. These triterpenic acids inhibit 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX), the enzyme responsible for the inflammatory leukotriene cascade. In the context of acne, this translates to reduced redness, swelling, and post-lesion sensitivity. Used in Isispharma's α-PURE complex specifically for its soothing properties.
- Mechanism: 5-LOX inhibitor — reduces leukotriene-driven skin inflammation
- Acne benefits: Calms post-acne redness and soothes active lesion inflammation
- Wound healing: Supports recovery of compromised, damaged skin post-breakout
Xylitol Complex (Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol) ~1–2%Proven
A patented trifecta of sugar-derived molecules that work synergistically to reinforce the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Together, they improve water retention in the stratum corneum and support the lamellar body lipid secretion process, strengthening the skin barrier over time.
- Hydration mechanism: Xylitylglucoside hydrolyzes into xylose + glucose, stimulating lamellar body lipid secretion
- Barrier repair: Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol maintain intercellular lipid organization
- NMF support: Mimics naturally occurring skin hydration factors
Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids ~0.5–1%Promising
A surfactant and skin-conditioning agent derived from oat amino acids. Beyond contributing mild cleansing activity, it delivers the documented soothing and anti-irritant properties of oat extract to the skin during cleansing, helping counterbalance any potential Salicylic Acid-induced sensitivity.
- Soothing: Oat-derived actives are clinically recognized for reducing TEWL and calming irritated skin
- Gentle surfactancy: Amino acid-based surfactants are among the mildest available, skin-pH compatible
30 ingredients
Water, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, PEG-40 Glyceryl Cocoate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glycerin, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, Hydrated Silica, Sodium Coceth Sulfate, Salicylic Acid, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Gluconolactone, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Chlorphenesin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Copper PCA, Zinc PCA, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Butyl Avocadate, Dipropylene Glycol, CI 74260, Boswellia Serrata Extract, Tocopherol
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse morning and evening as the first step. Apply to damp skin, massage gently for 1–2 minutes in circular motions, then rinse thoroughly. Follow with the rest of your Teen Derm routine for enhanced results.
How to use
HOW TO USEWet Your Face
Splash face with lukewarm water to dampen the skin. Avoid hot water as it can over-strip and irritate acne-prone skin.
Apply the Gel
Dispense a pearl-sized amount of Teen Derm Gel onto damp fingertips or directly onto the face. The gel will lather slightly upon contact with water.
Massage in Circular Motions for 1–2 Minutes
Using gentle circular movements, work the gel across the forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin. The silica micro-beads provide a light mechanical exfoliation sensation — do not scrub aggressively.
Rinse Thoroughly
Rinse completely with lukewarm water until no residue remains. Ensure all micro-beads and cleanser are fully removed to prevent potential pore-clogging from product residue.
Pat Dry and Continue Routine
Gently pat dry with a clean towel. Apply toner, serum, and moisturizer from the Teen Derm range or your preferred acne-care routine immediately after. Use morning and night for best results.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have combination, oily, or acne-prone skin
- You struggle with blackheads, whiteheads, or enlarged pores
- You want a cleanser that also delivers active anti-acne treatment
- You prefer French pharmacy dermatological formulations
- You want a soap-free, non-comedogenic daily cleanser
- You need sebum control and gentle exfoliation in one step
- You are a teenager or adult dealing with hormonal acne
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding (use Teen Derm Gel Sensitive instead)
- You have very dry or dehydrated skin as your primary concern
- You are highly sensitive to Salicylic Acid or BHAs
- You have confirmed fungal acne (pityrosporum folliculitis) — PEG esters may aggravate
- You prefer completely fragrance-free formulas
- You are located in the European Union (not available in EU)
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESIdeal match. Zinc PCA and Butyl Avocadate target sebum at the hormonal level, while Salicylic Acid deep-cleans pores. Leaves a clean, shine-free finish without stripping.
Precisely designed for this skin type. The α-PURE complex addresses blackheads, whiteheads, and inflammatory blemishes with clinically proven efficacy after 28 days.
Balances the oily T-zone effectively while Gluconolactone and the Xylitol complex maintain hydration in drier areas. A well-rounded formula for mixed skin needs.
Gluconolactone (PHA) and Boswellia Serrata offer soothing support, but the Salicylic Acid and physical exfoliation may be too stimulating for highly reactive skin. Consider Teen Derm Gel Sensitive.
Not recommended as a primary cleanser for dry skin. The exfoliating action and sebum-regulating ingredients can deplete moisture further. Follow with a rich moisturizer if used occasionally.
Results timeline
WEEK 6–8Immediate Cleansing & Freshness
From the very first use, skin feels deeply cleansed, purified, and refreshed after each wash. Excess surface oil is visibly reduced. Some users notice a slight tingling from Salicylic Acid — this is normal and indicates active ingredient contact.
95% notice cleaner feelReduced Shine & Pore Visibility
Sebum control from Zinc PCA and Butyl Avocadate becomes noticeable. Pores appear less clogged, skin texture starts to smooth as Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone exfoliation takes effect. Early reduction in blackhead formation.
70% report less shineClinically Proven Blemish Reduction
Isispharma's clinical study demonstrates a statistically significant 16.3% reduction in blackheads and whiteheads at 28 days (p=0.00, Wilcoxon test). Skin texture, pore appearance, and complexion are all rated improved by dermatologist assessment.
16.3% fewer comedones (clinical)Sustained Clarity & Balanced Complexion
With consistent twice-daily use, skin tone becomes more even, post-acne marks fade faster due to regular gentle exfoliation, and overall acne lesion frequency decreases. The Boswellia-driven anti-inflammatory effect stabilizes skin response to new breakouts.
80% report fewer active blemishesRatings by platform
1K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Clinically proven 16.3% blackhead/whitehead reduction in 28 days
- Multi-mechanism anti-acne action (BHA + PHA + Zinc + Copper + Avocado ester)
- Gentle enough for twice-daily use without over-stripping
- Biodegradable silica micro-beads (eco-conscious exfoliation)
- Soap-free, non-comedogenic, dermatologically tested
- Isispharma No.1 bestselling product — long-established track record
- Effectively controls shine and regulates sebum at hormonal level
- Works well as part of a layered Teen Derm routine
Criticized
- Not safe for pregnancy or breastfeeding (Salicylic Acid)
- Not available in the European Union
- Contains fragrance (Parfum) — not ideal for the most fragrance-sensitive
- PEG fatty esters may theoretically feed Malassezia in fungal acne-prone users
- 150ml bottle runs out quickly with twice-daily use
- Initial adjustment period may involve temporary dryness or flaking
- Price point slightly higher than basic pharmacy cleansers
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPESAnother French pharmacy acne cleanser with Zinc PCA and a surfactant-based formula for oily skin. Lacks Salicylic Acid at the same concentration and the proprietary α-PURE complex, but is fragrance-free and widely available including in the EU. Gentler but less actives-forward.
Contains 0.5% Salicylic Acid with a gentle surfactant base. Fragrance-free and specifically formulated for acne-prone skin. Lacks physical exfoliation and the multi-active α-PURE complex of Teen Derm Gel, but is pregnancy-safe and available globally. Good for sensitive acne-prone users.
Features 4% Benzoyl Peroxide rather than Salicylic Acid, plus Ceramides for barrier support. More aggressive against inflammatory acne bacteria but less effective on comedonal acne. Fragrance-free. A good entry-level dupe for users who prefer BPO over BHA.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDEStorage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening. Check the open jar symbol on the packaging for exact duration. Discard if texture, color, or scent changes noticeably.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. Avoid storing in humid bathrooms if possible — a bedroom shelf or cabinet is ideal to preserve Salicylic Acid stability.
Tube with flip-cap dispenser. The tube format minimizes air and contamination exposure, helping preserve the Salicylic Acid and Gluconolactone actives throughout the product's shelf life.
Yes — the 150ml standard size is ideal for checked luggage. For carry-on travel, decant into a travel-size bottle of 100ml or less to comply with TSA/airport liquid restrictions.
Frequently asked questions
FAQNo. Teen Derm Gel is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. It contains 1% Salicylic Acid, which is considered a potential endocrine disruptor and is contraindicated in pregnancy — even at cosmetic concentrations — due to the precautionary principle. Isispharma explicitly states this on their official product page and recommends switching to Teen Derm Gel Sensitive during pregnancy and breastfeeding, as it uses Gluconolactone (PHA) as the primary exfoliant instead of Salicylic Acid.
Use with caution if you have confirmed fungal acne (pityrosporum folliculitis / malassezia folliculitis). Teen Derm Gel contains several PEG-based fatty acid esters — including PEG-40 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, and PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate — which are fatty acid derivatives that can feed Malassezia yeast. However, because this is a rinse-off cleanser with very brief contact time on the skin, the practical risk is significantly lower than with leave-on products containing the same ingredients. If you are actively managing fungal acne, consider patch testing first or opting for a fungal-acne-safe cleanser.
Yes, in most cases. As a rinse-off cleanser, Teen Derm Gel does not remain on the skin and therefore doesn't directly interact with leave-on actives like retinol or Vitamin C in a problematic way. You can safely follow it with a Vitamin C serum or retinol moisturizer in your routine. However, avoid combining it with other leave-on BHA (salicylic acid) products — such as BHA toners or exfoliating pads — as this would stack Salicylic Acid exposure and risk over-exfoliation, barrier disruption, and increased sensitivity. Gluconolactone and Salicylic Acid in the cleanser itself are formulated to work together safely.
Teen Derm Gel is specifically designed and clinically tested for combination to oily, acne-prone skin. It excels for people dealing with blackheads, whiteheads, enlarged pores, excess sebum, and mild-to-moderate acne. It is not ideal for dry skin (which may become further dehydrated) or very sensitive skin without acne (the Salicylic Acid and physical exfoliation may be too much). The non-comedogenic, dermatologically tested formula makes it suitable for teenagers and adults alike with oily or combination acne concerns.
You will feel a deep-cleansed, fresher skin from your very first use. Visible results in terms of reduced shine and early exfoliation effects typically appear within 1–2 weeks of twice-daily use. The most meaningful clinical benchmark comes from Isispharma's own study: a statistically significant 16.3% reduction in blackheads and whiteheads was measured after 28 days (4 weeks) of consistent use. More comprehensive improvements in skin texture, pore appearance, and complexion evenness typically develop over 6–8 weeks. For best results, use alongside other products from the Teen Derm range.
Teen Derm Gel is the first step in your routine — it is your cleanser. Apply it to damp skin morning and night, massage in circular motions for 1–2 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. After drying, continue with your toner or essence, followed by any serums or spot treatments, then your moisturizer, and finally (in the morning only) your sunscreen. The active ingredients in the gel prime your skin to receive subsequent skincare products more effectively by removing the buildup that would otherwise block penetration.
No. Teen Derm Gel is officially labelled non-comedogenic and dermatologically tested. Its key actives — Salicylic Acid, Zinc PCA, and Gluconolactone — actively work to prevent and unclog pores. The comedogenic rating of this formulation is 1 out of 5. Importantly, as a rinse-off cleanser, even any potentially heavier emollient ingredients have negligible pore-clogging risk since they are thoroughly rinsed away rather than being left on the skin.
Teen Derm Gel has a Period After Opening (PAO) of 12 months. You will find the open jar symbol with "12M" on the product packaging confirming this. The 150ml tube, used morning and evening (approximately 1–1.5ml per use), typically lasts around 6–8 weeks with daily use. Store in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight or heat to maintain Salicylic Acid stability throughout the 12-month PAO period.
Verdict: Isispharma Teen Derm Gel stands out in the crowded French pharmacy cleanser market thanks to its genuinely multi-active, scientifically grounded formula. The combination of 1% Salicylic Acid with the proprietary α-PURE complex — including hormonal sebum regulation via Butyl Avocadate, Zinc PCA, Copper PCA, Gluconolactone PHA exfoliation, and Boswellia anti-inflammatory support — offers a level of targeted anti-acne action rarely seen in a daily cleanser. The clinically proven 16.3% blemish reduction in 28 days gives it credibility beyond marketing claims. It loses half a star for being unavailable in the EU, not pregnancy-safe, and containing fragrance. For any oily or acne-prone adult or teenager outside the EU, it is one of the best daily cleansers available from the French dermatology segment.
Product Overview
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
Hair Conditioning, Sufactant, Foam Boosting, Foaming
|
|
|
| 1 |
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Viscosity Controlling, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 3 |
PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate
Solvent, Surfactant, Emulsifying, Cleansing
|
|
|
| 0 |
Hydrated Silica
Absorbent, Abrasive
|
|








