The Enzyme Cleanser
The Enzyme Cleanser
Product Description
Dr. Barbara Sturm's The Enzyme Cleanser is a powder-to-foam exfoliating cleanser that transforms from a fine grain into a soft, creamy foam the moment it meets water. This 2-in-1 formula pairs gentle physical cleansing with enzymatic exfoliation, using papain enzymes alongside niacinamide, Vitamin C, and ectoin to dissolve dead skin cells, lift away makeup and pollution, and leave skin smoother, brighter, and primed to absorb your serums. Fragrance-free, vegan, and suited for daily use on oily skin or 2โ3 times weekly for other skin types.
โจ Texture & Feel
Powder-to-Foam Transformation
A finely milled powder activates into a soft, creamy foam the instant it touches water for an intuitive, mess-free cleanse.
Enzymatic Exfoliation
Papain enzymes gently dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells, smoothing texture without harsh scrubbing or acids.
Brightening Actives
Vitamin C and niacinamide work together to support a more radiant, even-looking complexion over time.
Barrier-Friendly
Aloe, purslane, and ectoin help calm and hydrate so skin feels comfortable rather than stripped after cleansing.
๐ก๏ธ Safety & Compatibility
Contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, or hydroquinone. The enzyme and antioxidant formula is generally considered low-risk, but always confirm with your doctor.
Free from esters, fatty acids, and polysorbates that can feed malassezia, so it suits those managing fungal acne.
Oil-free with low-rated ingredients like kaolin and papain (both 0/0), making pore-clogging very unlikely.
Contains fine grains (wheat starch, kaolin). Over-use can leave skin feeling tight or dry, especially for very dry or reactive skin.
Papain is papaya-derived. Those with a papaya or latex allergy should patch test before regular use.
As a rinse-off cleanser it pairs well with most actives. Space out same-session use with strong acids or retinoids to limit irritation.
๐ฌ Ingredient Breakdown
๐งฌ Papain (Enzyme) Undisclosed % Proven
A proteolytic enzyme extracted from unripe papaya. It works by dissolving the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together, promoting cell turnover and smoother texture without the abrasion of a traditional scrub.
- Mechanism: Breaks down keratin proteins to gently lift dead surface cells.
- 2024 study: An in vivo/in vitro study showed potential to calm inflammation and improve transepidermal water loss in atopic dermatitis models.
๐ Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Undisclosed % Proven
Pure, biologically active Vitamin C and one of the best-researched antioxidants in skincare. It helps neutralize free radicals, supports a brighter, more even tone, and contributes to a healthy-looking complexion.
- Antioxidant: Helps counter oxidative stress from UV and pollution.
- Clinical data: One study found 5% topical Vitamin C improved signs of photodamage over six months.
๐ Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Undisclosed % Proven
A multitasking form of Vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, helps regulate oil, refines the look of pores, and supports a more even tone. It is gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types.
- Barrier support: Converts to NAD in skin to fuel repair and resilience.
- Tone: Helps fade the look of dark spots and supports brightness.
๐ก๏ธ Ectoin Undisclosed % Promising
A naturally derived osmolyte that binds water molecules to form a protective "armor" around skin cells. It is prized for its hydrating and environmental-protection properties.
- Protection: Shown to help counteract UV-A, UV-B, infrared, and visible-light stress.
- Pollution: Demonstrates dual-action defense, both shielding from and helping repair pollution damage.
๐ฑ Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Lead Ingredient Proven
The first ingredient in the activated formula, aloe is a soothing, anti-inflammatory humectant rich in antioxidant vitamins A, C, and E. It helps offset the drying potential of exfoliation.
- Soothing: Well known for calming irritation and reducing the look of redness.
- Hydration: Natural sugars help bind moisture to the skin.
๐งฑ Kaolin Clay 0/0 rating Proven
A gentle white clay that absorbs excess sebum and helps clear out pores while contributing mild physical exfoliation. Ideal for oily and combination skin seeking a mattifying, deep clean.
- Oil control: Binds and lifts excess oil for a fresher, less congested feel.
- Pores: Helps minimize the appearance of enlarged pores.
๐พ Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch Undisclosed % Promising
A finely milled, naturally derived exfoliant that provides the soft physical "polish" in the powder. It buffs away dead surface cells while keeping the grain gentle and non-scratchy.
- Texture: Helps physically smooth and refine the skin's surface.
- Gentle: Fine particle size minimizes the harshness of typical scrubs.
15 ingredients
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Triticum Vulgare Starch, Cellulose, Sucrose, Kaolin, Water, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Xanthan Gum, Maltodextrin, Niacinamide, Ascorbic Acid, Ectoin, Sodium Polyglutamate, Papain, Biosaccharide Gum-1.
๐ Where It Fits in Your Routine
Use as your cleansing step. Oily and acne-prone skin can use it daily; normal, dry, or sensitive skin is best served using it 2โ3 times a week as a polishing treatment, following with a regular gentle cleanser on other days.
๐ How to Use
Dispense
Place a coin-sized amount of the powder into the palm of your hand.
Activate
Add a little lukewarm water and work the powder into a soft, gentle foam.
Massage
Smooth generously over the face in circular motions, adding water to build more lather.
Rinse
Rinse off thoroughly with plenty of water, then follow with toner, serum, and moisturizer.
๐ค Who Is It For?
โ Perfect for you if:
- You have oily or combination skin and want a deep, non-stripping clean
- You prefer gentle enzymatic exfoliation over gritty scrubs
- You want a fragrance-free, fungal-acne-safe option
- You like a travel-friendly, long-lasting powder format
- You want brighter, smoother-looking skin texture over time
โ Consider alternatives if:
- You have very dry skin that reacts to physical exfoliation
- You want a high-strength chemical (AHA/BHA) exfoliant
- You have a known papaya, latex, or wheat sensitivity
- You are on a tight budget and want a daily basic cleanser
- You prefer a leave-on Vitamin C for maximum brightening
๐ฏ Skin Type Compatibility
Kaolin absorbs excess oil and enzymes refine texture; safe for daily use on oily skin.
Balances oilier zones while soothing humectants keep drier areas comfortable.
Non-comedogenic and fungal-acne safe; gentle enough to support clearer skin.
Fragrance-free, but the physical grains mean reactive skin should patch test and limit frequency.
Some users find it drying; use only 1โ2 times weekly and always follow with a rich moisturizer.
๐ Results Timeline
Smoother, Cleaner Feel
Skin feels noticeably softer and deeply cleansed right after the first use, with makeup and impurities lifted away.
85% noticedRefined Texture & Glow
With 2โ3 uses per week, dead-cell buildup decreases and skin looks brighter and more even.
68% noticedClearer, More Radiant Skin
Pores look more refined and the complexion appears clearer; some report fewer congestion-related breakouts.
54% noticedBetter Product Absorption
Consistent exfoliation helps serums and moisturizers absorb more effectively for an overall healthier-looking finish.
47% noticedโญ Ratings by Platform
โ๏ธ Pros & Cons
โ Praised
- Luxurious powder-to-foam texture that feels gentle yet purifying
- Leaves skin noticeably smoother, brighter, and refreshed
- Travel-friendly and very long-lasting (a little goes a long way)
- Fragrance-free, vegan, and fungal-acne safe
- Makes follow-up serums and creams feel more effective
โ Criticized
- High price point relative to a cleanser
- Can be drying, especially for dry or sensitive skin
- Some users see only modest results for the cost
- Physical exfoliation isn't ideal for very reactive skin
- No leave-on benefit from the Vitamin C since it rinses off
๐ฐ Budget-Friendly Alternatives (Dupes)
A papaya-enzyme powder-to-foam cleanser with the same core exfoliating mechanism at a fraction of the price. Less luxurious feel and fewer supporting actives, but a great value entry point.
An enzyme-based polishing exfoliant that smooths and brightens. Different texture and ingredient mix, but targets the same resurfacing goal for less.
A gentle K-beauty enzyme powder wash that exfoliates and balances skin. Lighter on antioxidant actives but very affordable and approachable.
๐ Comparison with Competitors
Dr. Barbara Sturm The Enzyme Cleanser (Featured)
$59.90Tatcha The Rice Polish: Classic
$68.00Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant
$67.00Babor Enzyme Cleanser
$44.00๐ฆ Storage & Shelf Life
12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight; keep the powder dry and the lid closed.
Pump-top powder bottle
Yes โ dry powder under 100ml, ideal for carry-on travel
โ Frequently Asked Questions
The formula contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens โ the ingredients most often flagged during pregnancy. Its enzyme, antioxidant, and humectant blend is generally considered low-risk for a rinse-off product. That said, every pregnancy is different, so always confirm with your OB-GYN or dermatologist before adding any product to your routine.
Yes. The formula is free from the esters, fatty acids, and polysorbates that typically feed malassezia, which is why ingredient databases classify it as fungal-acne safe. It's a suitable cleansing option for those managing fungal acne or seb derm concerns.
Yes โ because it's a rinse-off cleanser, it generally layers well with most actives applied afterward. To minimize the chance of irritation, avoid combining it in the same session with strong leave-on acids or retinoids; many people exfoliate with it on mornings and use retinoids at night. Introduce new actives gradually and listen to your skin.
It performs best on oily and combination skin, where the kaolin clay and enzymes help control oil and refine texture. Acne-prone skin also does well thanks to its non-comedogenic, fungal-acne-safe profile. Dry and sensitive skin can use it too, but less frequently (1โ2 times a week) and always with a moisturizer afterward.
Most people feel smoother, cleaner skin immediately after the first use. Visible improvements in brightness and texture typically appear within 1โ2 weeks of regular use (2โ3 times weekly), with clearer-looking, more refined skin developing over 4โ6 weeks of consistent use.
It's your cleansing step. Use it after removing makeup and before toner, serum, and moisturizer. Oily skin can use it daily as the main cleanser, while other skin types use it as a periodic exfoliating treatment and rely on a gentler cleanser on off days.
It's very unlikely to clog pores. The formula is oil-free and its key ingredients, such as kaolin and papain, carry a 0/0 comedogenic rating. We rate it 1 out of 5, making it a safe choice for congestion-prone and acne-prone skin.
Its Period After Opening (PAO) is about 12 months. Because it's a dry powder and only a coin-sized amount is needed per use, many users report a single 75g bottle lasting close to a year when used a few times per week.
Verdict: Dr. Barbara Sturm's The Enzyme Cleanser is a refined, fragrance-free powder-to-foam exfoliator that delivers a genuinely gentle yet effective cleanse. The papain enzymes paired with niacinamide, Vitamin C, and ectoin make it stand out for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin that wants smoother texture and brighter-looking skin without harsh scrubbing. It's clearly a luxury purchase, and dry or very sensitive skin should use it sparingly, but its long-lasting powder format, clean formulation, and skin-refining results make it a worthwhile splurge for the right skin type.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skinโs own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging ยซpromisesยป it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 3 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 2 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 2 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 2 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 |
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
|
Hydrating
Redness
Irritation
|
|
| 1 |
Cellulose
Viscosity Controlling, Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Opacifying, Slip Modifier
|
|
|
| 1 |
Sucrose
Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Flavoring Agent, Soothing
|
|
|
| 1 |
Kaolin
Abrasive, Absorbent, Anticaking Agent, Bulking Agent, Opacifying, Skin Protecting, Slip Modifier, Cosmetic Colorant
|
Ache-fighting
Pores
|
|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|