Ultra Facial Overnight Hydrating Face Mask With 10.5% Squalane
Ultra Facial Overnight Hydrating Face Mask With 10.5% Squalane
Product Description
Product overview
A rich, fragrance-free overnight sleeping mask from Kiehl's, powered by 10.5% plant-derived Squalane and Glacial Glycoprotein. The signature balm-to-oil texture melts into skin to seal in moisture, reinforce a weakened barrier, and rescue dry, tight, flaky skin while you sleep — clinically shown to help prevent dryness for up to three days.
10.5% Plant-Derived Squalane
More than double the squalane of the classic Ultra Facial Cream. This sugarcane-derived lipid mimics skin's own oils to lock in moisture and reinforce the barrier overnight.
Texture & feel
SENSORY10.5% Plant-Derived Squalane
More than double the squalane of the classic Ultra Facial Cream. This sugarcane-derived lipid mimics skin's own oils to lock in moisture and reinforce the barrier overnight.
Glacial Glycoprotein
A renewable, sustainably produced ferment ingredient that helps deeply hydrate and keep skin's moisture balance stable through the night.
Transformative Balm-to-Oil
Starts as a whipped balm in the jar and melts into a cushiony oil as you massage it in — sinking down without needing to be rinsed off.
Three Ways to Use
Wear overnight 3x per week, apply as a 15-minute intensive treatment on dry patches, or use as a gentle cleansing balm.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains a trace amount of Salicylic Acid (BHA) low on the ingredient list. Generally considered low-risk topically, but many practitioners advise caution — check with your OB/GYN.
Not malassezia-safe. Esters and fatty-acid derivatives (lauryl laurate, behenyl behenate, sorbitan esters) plus a ferment can feed malassezia.
No added fragrance, dyes, mineral oil or silicones. Independent analysis rates irritation potential as low, making it friendly for reactive skin.
Plays well with retinol, vitamin C, AHAs and BHAs — apply this last to seal them in. Pair over a humectant serum, as the formula has no water-binding actives of its own.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSSqualane 10.5%Proven
The star of the formula and the reason for the name. Squalane is a highly stable, lightweight lipid derived from sugarcane that closely mirrors oils naturally found in skin's sebum, giving it excellent skin affinity.
- Function: Emollient and occlusive — softens skin and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- Concentration: At 10.5%, more than double the level in Kiehl's classic Ultra Facial Cream.
- Comedogenicity: Rated around 1/5 — low risk of clogging pores.
Glacial Glycoprotein (Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract) ActivePromising
A glycoprotein originally identified in Antarctic glacier waters, now produced sustainably by fermentation. Kiehl's pairs it with squalane to support hydration and help maintain the skin's moisture balance.
- Function: Humectant-style conditioning agent that helps skin hold onto water.
- Sourcing: Renewable raw material produced without further glacier extraction.
Botanical Waxes & Esters TextureProven
Lauryl Laurate, Behenyl Behenate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Candelilla Wax and sorbitan esters create the signature balm-to-oil melt and the breathable occlusive seal that traps moisture overnight.
- Function: Emollients and structuring waxes that build the cushiony balm texture.
- Benefit: Form a flexible film that limits overnight water loss without a heavy silicone feel.
Salicylic Acid (BHA) TracePromising
Present in a very small amount near the end of the list — far below the levels used in dedicated exfoliating treatments. Here it likely supports formula stability and gentle pore upkeep rather than active exfoliation.
- Function: Mild beta-hydroxy acid with anti-bacterial, pore-clearing properties.
- Note: Its presence is why we flag pregnancy as a "caution" topic.
17 ingredients
Aqua / Water, Lauryl Laurate, Squalane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Behenyl Behenate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Candelilla Cera / Candelilla Wax, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide.
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse as the final PM step 3x per week. Because it has no water-binding actives of its own, apply it over a hydrating serum or moisturizer so it can seal that moisture in overnight.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse first
Apply to clean, dry skin at night after your usual cleanse (and any serums/treatments).
Massage balm to oil
Use fingertips to work a healthy layer over face, neck and chest. Massage until the balm melts into an oil and sinks in.
Leave on overnight
Pat any excess into skin and do not rinse. Let it work while you sleep; in the morning follow your normal routine.
Optional: 15-minute treatment
For an SOS boost on very dry areas, apply a visible layer, leave 15 minutes, then tissue off any remainder.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- Your skin is dry, dehydrated, tight or flaky, especially in winter
- You want a fragrance-free, barrier-repairing overnight treatment
- You like multi-use products (mask, treatment or cleansing balm)
- You prefer clean, vegan formulas in recyclable packaging
- You layer it as the last step to seal in serums
Consider alternatives if:
- You have malassezia (fungal) acne
- You're very oily and dislike rich, occlusive textures
- You want strong humectants (HA, glycerin) as the main draw
- You prefer airless/pump packaging over a jar
- You're avoiding all BHAs during pregnancy without doctor sign-off
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESThis is the hero use case — deeply nourishes, softens flakes and rescues tightness overnight.
Great as an occasional moisture top-up; brand positions it for normal-to-dry skin.
Works well on dry zones; apply a thinner layer on the T-zone to avoid a heavy feel.
The rich occlusive balm can feel heavy and leave a sheen; use sparingly or only on dry patches.
Fragrance-free with low irritation potential; patch test first due to the trace BHA and ferment.
Marketed non-comedogenic and low-comedogenic in practice, but it is not fungal-acne safe — caution if breakouts are malassezia-driven.
Results timeline
ONGOING (3X/WEEK)Soft, supple, comforted
Skin wakes up cushiony and less tight, with flakes softened and a noticeable rebound in comfort after a single night.
Immediate feelVisibly flake-free
Regular nightly use smooths rough, peeling patches and reduces that tight, dehydrated feeling.
90% saw flake-free skin*Deep, lasting hydration
Moisture levels and barrier resilience build up, helping skin stay hydrated for up to three days between uses.
93% felt deeply hydrated*Stronger barrier
Continued use keeps the moisture barrier reinforced and more resilient against dryness and external aggressors.
84% felt less tight**Based on a Kiehl's consumer use study of 95 subjects (flake-free and less-tight after 1 week; deeply hydrated after 2 weeks).
Ratings by platform
2K+ REVIEWSRatings reflect figures reported across major retailers; counts are approximate and change over time.
Pros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Intense, genuine relief for very dry, tight, flaky skin
- High 10.5% squalane dose strengthens the barrier
- Fragrance-free with low irritation potential
- Skin feels pillowy-soft by morning
- Multi-use: overnight mask, 15-min treatment or cleansing balm
- Vegan, cruelty-free, recyclable jar; Allure Best of Beauty 2023
Criticized
- Premium price (~$40) for a simple occlusive formula
- Rich, oily feel and slight sheen — heavy for oily skin
- No humectants; needs a hydrating layer underneath
- Not fungal-acne (malassezia) safe
- Jar packaging is less hygienic than a pump or tube
- Trace BHA means pregnancy caution
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Delivers the same core squalane occlusion at a fraction of the price. No glacial glycoprotein or balm texture, so it's a pure oil rather than a cushiony mask experience.
A rich night cream with ceramides, peptides and hyaluronic acid. Adds humectants the Kiehl's mask lacks, though it contains fragrance and isn't squalane-led.
Squalane- and HA-based overnight cream that hydrates richly for less. Lighter barrier-repair credentials and a thinner feel than the high-dose Kiehl's balm.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight; reseal the lid tightly after use.
100% post-consumer recycled jar — use clean fingers or a spatula for hygiene.
Full size 100ml meets carry-on limits; a 0.5 fl oz travel size is also available.
Frequently asked questions
FAQIt contains a trace amount of Salicylic Acid (a BHA) listed near the end of the ingredients, well below the level of dedicated acid treatments. Low-dose topical salicylic acid is widely considered low-risk, but guidance varies and many practitioners err on the side of caution during pregnancy and breastfeeding. We recommend confirming with your OB/GYN or midwife before use.
No. The formula contains several esters and fatty-acid derivatives — including lauryl laurate, behenyl behenate, isononyl isononanoate and sorbitan esters — plus a ferment (Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract). These can feed malassezia yeast, so it is not recommended if you are prone to fungal acne.
Yes. As an inert, soothing occlusive layer it generally layers well with actives. Apply your retinol, vitamin C or exfoliating acid first, let it absorb, then apply this mask last to seal everything in and buffer potential dryness or irritation. If your skin is sensitised, alternate nights.
It's formulated for normal-to-dry skin and shines on dry, dehydrated, tight or flaky skin and compromised barriers. Combination and sensitive skin can use it (apply thinner on oily zones; patch test if reactive). Very oily skin may find it too rich, and fungal-acne-prone skin should avoid it.
Hydration and softness are felt the very next morning. In Kiehl's consumer study of 95 subjects, 90% saw flake-free skin and 84% felt less tight after one week, and 93% felt deeply hydrated after two weeks. Each application is designed to help prevent dryness for up to three days.
It's the final step of your PM routine, used about 3 times a week. Cleanse, then apply toner, serums and moisturizer, and finish with a layer of this mask to lock everything in overnight. Because it has no water-binding humectants of its own, it works best layered over a hydrating product.
Kiehl's markets it as non-comedogenic, and squalane itself has a low comedogenic rating (around 1/5). We rate the overall formula about 2/5. Most people tolerate it well, but it is a rich occlusive balm, so very oily or acne-prone skin should apply a thin layer and monitor how their skin responds.
The Period After Opening (PAO) is 12 months — check the small open-jar symbol on the packaging. Store it in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight, keep the lid sealed, and use clean fingers or a spatula since it comes in a jar.
Verdict: A focused, beautifully made overnight mask that does one thing exceptionally well — sealing in moisture and rebuilding a dry, compromised barrier with a generous 10.5% squalane dose. The fragrance-free, vegan formula and satisfying balm-to-oil texture earn its Allure award and consistent 4.3–4.5 ratings across retailers. Just know what it isn't: there are no humectants, so layer it over a hydrating serum, and skip it if you have fungal acne or very oily skin. For dry-skin sufferers craving a soft, comforted complexion by morning, it's worth the splurge.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Brightening from 1 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Lauryl Laurate
Skin Conditioning, Emulsion Stabilising, Hair Conditioning, Binding Agent, Opacifying, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
|
|
|
| 1 |
Squalane
Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Refatting
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Isononyl Isononanoate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent
|
|
|
| 1 |
Behenyl Behenate
Emollient
|
|