Universal Pro-Retinol
Universal Pro-Retinol
Product Description
Product overview
A gentle yet effective nightly retinoid treatment featuring 0.5% Retinyl Sunflowerate - an innovative hybrid of pure retinol and sunflower seed fatty acids. Designed to visibly improve fine lines, dark spots, texture, and blemishes while nourishing skin with plant-based humectants. Perfect for retinol beginners and experienced users alike.
Innovative Retinol Technology
Retinyl Sunflowerate combines pure retinol with sunflower seed fatty acids for effective results with less irritation than traditional retinol.
Texture & feel
SENSORYInnovative Retinol Technology
Retinyl Sunflowerate combines pure retinol with sunflower seed fatty acids for effective results with less irritation than traditional retinol.
Plant-Based Humectants
Stevia and Mondo Grass Root extracts work together to smooth skin and minimize the dryness typically associated with retinoid use.
Multi-Tasking Formula
Addresses fine lines, dark spots, blemishes, uneven texture, and pores in one nightly treatment for simplified skincare.
Barrier-Friendly
Shea butter, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin provide deep nourishment to keep skin hydrated and protected during retinoid use.
Safety & compatibility
SAFENOT SAFE. Contains retinol (Vitamin A derivative). Avoid during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Consult your healthcare provider.
NOT SAFE. Contains shea butter, coconut alkanes, and olive-derived emulsifiers that can feed malassezia yeast.
Low comedogenic rating (1/5). Suitable for most skin types including acne-prone skin without clogging pores.
Increases photosensitivity. Always use SPF 30+ during the day when using this product. Use PM only.
Avoid mixing with AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C, or other retinoids. Alternate nights if using chemical exfoliants.
Vegan, cruelty-free, fragrance-free, and paraben-free. No harsh alcohols or sulfates.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSRetinyl Sunflowerate 0.5%Proven
An innovative retinol derivative that combines pure retinol with sunflower seed fatty acids. Provides anti-aging benefits with improved tolerability compared to traditional retinol.
- Function: Promotes cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, reduces fine lines and dark spots
- Innovation: Fatty acid conjugation improves stability and reduces irritation potential
- Efficacy: 0.5% concentration balances effectiveness with tolerability for all skin types
Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem ExtractPromising
A naturally-derived extract from the stevia plant that works synergistically with retinol to smooth the overall appearance of skin, specifically targeting fine lines.
- Source: Derived from stems and leaves of the Stevia plant
- Function: Acts as retinol's supporting ingredient to enhance smoothing effects
- Benefit: Helps minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root ExtractProven
Also known as Mondo Grass Root Extract, this plant-derived humectant helps skin hold onto moisture and minimizes irritation commonly associated with retinoid use.
- Function: Acts as a powerful humectant to retain skin moisture
- Benefit: Keeps skin conditioned during retinoid treatment
- Source: Derived from Ophiopogon Japonicus (Mondo Grass) root
Shea ButterProven
A rich, nourishing emollient derived from the shea tree that provides deep moisturization and helps maintain skin barrier integrity during retinoid treatment.
- Function: Emollient that locks in moisture and soothes skin
- Benefit: Prevents dryness and peeling associated with retinol use
- Composition: Rich in fatty acids and vitamins A and E
Sodium HyaluronateProven
The sodium salt form of hyaluronic acid that attracts and holds up to 1000x its weight in water, providing intense hydration to counteract retinol dryness.
- Function: Humectant that draws moisture into the skin
- Penetration: Smaller molecular weight than HA for better absorption
- Benefit: Plumps skin and reduces appearance of fine lines
31 ingredients
Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, C13-15 Alkane, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetearyl Olivate, Coconut Alkanes, Sorbitan Olivate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Betaine, Retinyl Sunflowerseedate, Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Maltodextrin, Glycol Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEPM routine only. Apply to clean, dry skin. Wait 15 seconds before moisturizer. Always use SPF 30+ during the day.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Dry
Start with freshly cleansed, completely dry skin. Pat face dry and wait 1-2 minutes to ensure skin is fully dry before application.
Apply Pea-Sized Amount
Dispense one pump (pea-sized amount) and smooth evenly over entire face, avoiding the eye area and lips.
Allow Absorption
Wait approximately 15 seconds for the formula to fully absorb into skin before applying any additional products.
Follow with Moisturizer
Apply your favorite moisturizer to lock in hydration and further minimize any potential irritation from the retinoid.
Build Up Gradually
Start with 1-2 nights per week. Gradually increase frequency as your skin builds tolerance, working up to nightly use.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You're new to retinol and want a gentle introduction
- You want to address fine lines, wrinkles, and early signs of aging
- You have dark spots or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- You prefer a hydrating, non-irritating retinol formula
- You want to improve overall skin texture and tone
- You have normal, dry, oily, or combination skin
- You want an uncomplicated, all-in-one nighttime treatment
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding
- You have fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis)
- You want high-strength prescription-level retinoid
- You already use tretinoin or adapalene
- You have extremely sensitive or reactive skin
- You want faster, more dramatic results
- You're looking for a budget-friendly option
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESEffective for oil control and pore refinement, though the creamy texture may feel slightly rich for very oily skin.
Rich, nourishing formula with shea butter and humectants provides excellent hydration while delivering retinoid benefits.
Well-balanced formula works across different facial zones, hydrating dry areas without overwhelming oily zones.
Gentler than traditional retinol thanks to fatty acid conjugation. Patch test first and start with 1x weekly application.
Non-comedogenic and helps with blemishes and texture. Not suitable for fungal acne due to fatty acid content.
Results timeline
MONTH 3+Initial Adjustment
Skin begins adjusting to retinoid. Some may experience mild dryness or sensitivity as skin acclimates. Improved glow and smoother texture may be noticeable.
85% noticed improved glowTexture Improvement
Visible improvement in skin texture and smoothness. Pores appear more refined. Dark spots begin to fade. Skin looks more radiant and less dull.
100% reported smoother skinVisible Transformation
Noticeable reduction in fine lines. Dark spots and post-acne marks visibly faded. More even skin tone. Skin looks lifted and transformed.
81% saw faded dark spotsLong-Term Benefits
Continued improvement in signs of aging. Collagen production stimulated. Skin maintains improved texture, tone, and radiance with consistent use.
100% reported transformed skinRatings by platform
4K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Extremely gentle - minimal irritation even for beginners
- No peeling, dryness, or redness commonly seen with retinol
- Rich, nourishing texture that hydrates while treating
- Visible results in texture, tone, and radiance within weeks
- Clean, fragrance-free formula suitable for sensitive skin
- Beautiful packaging with convenient pump dispenser
- Perfect entry point for retinol newcomers
- Multi-tasking formula addresses multiple concerns
Criticized
- Expensive for the size ($35 for 35ml)
- Less potent than pure retinol or prescription retinoids
- Results take longer compared to stronger formulas
- Creamy texture may feel too heavy for oily skin
- Not suitable for pregnancy, breastfeeding, or fungal acne
- Slight medicinal scent (though it fades quickly)
- May not satisfy experienced retinoid users
- Requires consistent long-term use for best results
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Same 0.5% retinol strength in moisturizing squalane base. Water-free formula may be drying for some. More potent but potentially more irritating. Fraction of the price.
Encapsulated retinol with ceramides and niacinamide. Lighter texture better for oily skin. Focuses more on post-acne marks than anti-aging. Contains licorice root for brightening.
Contains retinol plus bakuchiol for gentle approach. Cream texture similar to Glossier. Lower concentration makes it even gentler for absolute beginners.
Slow-release retinol with squalane. Lightweight serum texture differs from Glossier's cream. Good entry-level option with stabilized retinol technology.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening. Retinol can degrade with exposure to light and air, so use within the recommended timeframe.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Do not refrigerate unless instructed. Keep cap tightly closed.
Opaque tube with pump dispenser protects formula from light and air exposure, maintaining retinol stability and potency.
Yes, TSA compliant. 35ml (1.18 fl oz) is under the 100ml/3.4oz liquid limit for carry-on luggage.
Frequently asked questions
FAQNo, this product is NOT safe during pregnancy or breastfeeding. It contains Retinyl Sunflowerate, a retinol derivative. All retinoids (including OTC retinol) should be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding due to potential risks to fetal development. Consult your healthcare provider and consider alternatives like bakuchiol, which is pregnancy-safe.
No, this product is NOT fungal acne safe. It contains several ingredients that can feed malassezia yeast, including Shea Butter, Coconut Alkanes, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate (olive-derived emulsifiers), and sunflower seed fatty acids. If you have fungal acne, look for a FA-safe retinol alternative.
Avoid using this product with other retinoids, strong vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), AHAs, or BHAs in the same routine to prevent irritation. If you use chemical exfoliants or vitamin C, alternate nights - use Pro-Retinol on some nights and your other actives on different nights. You can use gentle vitamin C derivatives (like ascorbyl glucoside) in your AM routine.
This product works well for most skin types but is especially excellent for dry and combination skin due to its rich, nourishing texture. It's also ideal for sensitive skin users who've struggled with traditional retinols, and retinol beginners. Those with very oily skin may find the texture too heavy - consider a lighter serum formula instead.
Most users notice improved glow and smoother texture within 1-2 weeks. By week 4, you can expect visible improvement in skin texture, pore appearance, and radiance. Dark spots typically begin fading around weeks 4-8. For significant anti-aging benefits (fine lines, wrinkles), expect to use consistently for 3+ months. Results vary by individual.
Apply in your PM routine only, after cleansing and toning, on completely dry skin. Wait 15 seconds for absorption, then follow with moisturizer. Do NOT use in the morning as retinoids increase sun sensitivity. Always use SPF 30+ during the day. The order: Cleanser → Toner (optional) → Pro-Retinol → Moisturizer.
No, this product is non-comedogenic with a low comedogenic rating of 1/5. It's formulated to not clog pores and is suitable for acne-prone skin. However, if you have fungal acne specifically, the fatty acids in the formula may trigger breakouts (see fungal acne question above). Always patch test if you're prone to congestion.
The product has a PAO (Period After Opening) of 12 months. For best results and potency, use within this timeframe. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. The opaque tube packaging helps protect the retinol from light degradation. If the product changes color, smell, or texture significantly, discontinue use.
Verdict: Glossier Universal Pro-Retinol is an excellent choice for retinol beginners and those seeking a gentle, nourishing approach to anti-aging skincare. The innovative Retinyl Sunflowerate formula delivers visible results - smoother texture, faded dark spots, improved radiance - without the irritation, peeling, and dryness associated with traditional retinol. The rich, hydrating texture is particularly well-suited for dry and combination skin types. However, at $35 for 35ml, it's not the most budget-friendly option, and experienced retinoid users may find it less potent than pure retinol or prescription alternatives. Not recommended for pregnancy, breastfeeding, or fungal acne sufferers. Overall, a thoughtfully formulated product that makes retinoid benefits accessible to those who've been intimidated by the ingredient.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 1 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 1 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 3 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Propanediol
Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
|
|
|
| 1 |
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Skin Conditioning, Emolient
|
Ache-fighting
|
|
| 0 |
C13-15 Alkane
Solvent
|
|