Wrinkle + Texture Repair
Wrinkle + Texture Repair
Product Description
Product overview
A high-potency 0.5% retinol treatment by ZO Skin Health, formulated with a proprietary microemulsion delivery system to visibly reduce fine lines and wrinkles, refine skin texture, and restore the skin's natural hydration. Enriched with the ZCORE™ biomimetic peptide complex, beta-glucan, hydrolyzed sericin, and a robust antioxidant shield — this is clinical-grade retinology packaged for consistent, nightly use.
Microemulsion Retinol Delivery
Nano-encapsulated retinol penetrates to the dermis with enhanced stability and bioavailability, reducing irritation while maximising effectiveness at the 0.5% concentration.
Texture & feel
SENSORYMicroemulsion Retinol Delivery
Nano-encapsulated retinol penetrates to the dermis with enhanced stability and bioavailability, reducing irritation while maximising effectiveness at the 0.5% concentration.
ZCORE™ Peptide Complex
Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3 (biomimetic tetrapeptide) combined with Melilotus Officinalis (sweet yellow clover) supports anchoring fibrils at the dermal-epidermal junction for structural skin integrity.
ZPRO® Hydration System
Hydrolyzed Sericin and Phospholipids support the skin's natural hyaluronic acid replenishment and reinforce the lipid barrier, counteracting the typical dryness associated with retinol.
Antioxidant Defence Shield
A comprehensive antioxidant blend — Ascorbyl Palmitate (stable Vitamin C ester), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Beta-Glucan, and Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate — protects against free radical damage and oxidative retinol degradation.
Bisabolol Anti-Irritant Buffer
Pharmaceutical-grade Bisabolol (derived from chamomile) actively calms inflammation and reduces retinol-induced redness, making this formula more tolerable than unbuffered alternatives.
Circulation-Boosting Ethyl Nicotinate
Ethyl Nicotinate (a Vitamin B3 ester) supports microcirculation and skin energy metabolism, enhancing nutrient delivery and contributing to visible radiance improvements over time.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEThis product contains 0.5% retinol, a Vitamin A derivative. Retinoids are contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding due to potential teratogenic risk. Consult your OB-GYN before use and discontinue immediately if pregnant.
This formula contains Polysorbate 20, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, and Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil — fatty acid esters that can feed Malassezia yeast. Not recommended for confirmed fungal acne (Pityrosporum folliculitis).
The formula includes Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, and Limonene — known contact allergens per EU Cosmetics Regulation. Patch test is strongly recommended for sensitive skin.
Retinol increases photosensitivity, especially during the first few months of use. Daily application of SPF 30 or higher is mandatory. Apply this product at night only; never in the morning.
The main emollients (Cetearyl Isononanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol) have low-to-moderate comedogenic ratings. The overall formulation is well-tolerated by most skin types including acne-prone skin.
Free from hydroquinone, parabens, mineral oil, sulphates, and artificial colourants (except trace CI 60730). Preservative system uses Phenoxyethanol and Potassium Sorbate at safe cosmetic concentrations.
Can be layered with ceramides, niacinamide, and peptides on alternating evenings. Avoid same-night use with AHAs, BHAs, Vitamin C (L-AA), or benzoyl peroxide to prevent over-exfoliation and irritation. Pair with SPF 50+ in the morning.
The periorbital skin is thinner and more reactive to retinol. Apply sparingly around the eye contour and avoid the upper eyelid. Consider a dedicated eye retinol or apply a barrier moisturiser around the orbital bone before use.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSRetinol 0.5%Gold Standard
The hero active. Pure, unmodified Vitamin A (retinol) requires enzymatic conversion in the skin to all-trans retinoic acid — the biologically active form. At 0.5%, this is a high-strength OTC concentration, delivering clinically meaningful results for fine lines, wrinkle depth, skin roughness, and pore size over 12–24 weeks of consistent use.
- Mechanism: Binds retinoic acid receptors (RARs) in the dermis; upregulates procollagen I and III synthesis; suppresses matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade collagen.
- Clinical data: ZO's independent 12-week study (43 subjects, ages 42–67) found 98% showed improvement in crow's feet and facial fine lines.
- Published science: A study in the Archives of Dermatology demonstrated measurable wrinkle depth and roughness reduction with 0.4% retinol over 24 weeks.
- Delivery: Encapsulated in a microemulsion system for enhanced dermal penetration and reduced degradation from air and light exposure.
Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3 (ZCORE™) traceProven
A biomimetic tetrapeptide that signals fibroblasts to produce type IV and VII collagen — the structural proteins forming anchoring fibrils at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Strengthening the DEJ improves skin resilience, reduces sagging, and supports the visible firmness benefits of long-term retinol use.
- Function: Mimics the laminin fragment signal to stimulate collagen IV and VII production.
- Synergy: Combined with Melilotus Officinalis Extract in the ZCORE™ complex for amplified structural repair.
- Benefit: Addresses skin laxity and texture at the architectural level, complementing retinol's surface renewal effects.
Beta-Glucan traceProven
A polysaccharide derived from oat or yeast cell walls with potent immunomodulatory, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. In skincare, beta-glucan acts as a deep-penetrating humectant and soothes retinol-induced inflammation, making it an ideal buffer ingredient in high-strength retinol formulas.
- Penetration study: A published 8-week study by the ingredient manufacturer (27 subjects) found smaller fractions of beta-glucan penetrate into the dermis, with significant reduction in wrinkle depth and skin roughness.
- Anti-inflammatory: Activates macrophages and stimulates cytokine production to modulate inflammatory skin responses.
- Humectant: Holds moisture in the stratum corneum, counteracting retinol-induced transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Hydrolyzed Sericin (ZPRO®) traceProven
Silk-derived protein that upregulates hyaluronic acid synthesis and stimulates collagen production in fibroblasts. Sericin has a strong affinity for keratin, forming a thin film on the skin surface that retains moisture and improves soft-tissue elasticity — directly countering the dehydrating effects of retinol.
- HA stimulation: Promotes hyaluronic acid production in the dermis for plumper, more hydrated skin over time.
- Barrier repair: Amino acid-rich composition helps reinforce the skin's natural moisture barrier.
- ZPRO® system: Combined with Phospholipids and Lecithin for comprehensive barrier support and cell membrane integrity.
Bisabolol traceProven
A naturally occurring monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol derived from chamomile (Matricaria recutita) or synthesised. Bisabolol is one of the most well-studied anti-inflammatory and skin-calming cosmetic ingredients, reducing erythema and cytokine expression — making it essential in high-strength retinol formulas where retinisation side effects are expected.
- Anti-inflammatory mechanism: Inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1α, TNF-α) and suppresses COX-2 activity.
- Permeation enhancer: Increases the skin penetration of co-applied actives, including retinol.
- Wound healing: Promotes fibroblast migration and accelerates epidermal barrier recovery.
Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture tracePromising
Plant stem cells derived from butterfly bush meristem tissue. Meristem cells contain totipotent growth factors and polyphenolic antioxidants that protect skin cells from UV and oxidative stress. As a ZO proprietary ingredient, this extract provides both antioxidant and anti-irritant benefits within the formula's retinol buffer system.
- Antioxidant activity: Rich in verbascoside (acteoside) — a potent polyphenol with DPPH radical scavenging capacity.
- Anti-irritant: Reduces UV-induced inflammatory responses and supports the skin's stress-response pathways.
- ZO proprietary use: Featured across ZO Skin Health's premium retinol line as a key differentiator for tolerability.
Melilotus Officinalis Extract (Sweet Yellow Clover) tracePromising
A botanical extract from sweet clover rich in coumarins (particularly coumarin and melilotoside) with anti-inflammatory and microcirculation-enhancing properties. In the ZCORE™ complex, this extract works alongside Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3 to support dermal integrity and anchoring fibril maintenance.
- Coumarin content: Natural coumarin compounds support lymphatic drainage, reduce microvascular fragility, and have mild anticoagulant properties.
- Anti-inflammatory: Inhibits histamine release and prostaglandin synthesis, contributing to the formula's overall irritation-reduction profile.
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil traceEmollient
A lightweight carrier oil rich in oleic acid (60–70%) and linoleic acid (25–30%) that deeply moisturises without occlusive heaviness. The emollient properties help counterbalance the drying effects of retinol while contributing to the cream's luxurious texture.
- Fatty acid profile: Oleic acid enhances skin softness and penetration; linoleic acid repairs barrier function.
- Absorption rate: Dry-finish oil that absorbs relatively quickly — does not leave a greasy film.
Ascorbyl Palmitate + Tocopheryl Acetate traceAntioxidants
A complementary antioxidant pair: Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble Vitamin C ester that stabilises lipid membranes and scavenges free radicals; Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) protects cell membranes from oxidative damage and supports skin barrier recovery. Together, they protect both the retinol and the skin from oxidative degradation.
- Vitamin C ester: More stable than L-Ascorbic Acid in cream formulations; less potent for brightening but highly effective as an antioxidant.
- Vitamin E synergy: Tocopherol is regenerated by Vitamin C in a recycling antioxidant cycle, extending protective capacity.
- Retinol protection: Antioxidants minimise retinol oxidation in the formula, extending product efficacy over the PAO period.
54 ingredients — Listed in order of concentration (highest first):
Water, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Steareth-20, Pentylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Melilotus Officinalis Extract, Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, Retinol 0.5%, Cetearyl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Acrylamide/Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lecithin, Bisabolol, Carbomer, Silica, Polyisobutene, Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Sericin, Phospholipids, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Sulfite, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Beta-Glucan, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hexylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ethyl Nicotinate, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Dextran, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 60730, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Limonene
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply to clean, dry skin in the PM routine after any water-based serums. Allow 60 seconds to absorb before moisturiser. Avoid same-night use with exfoliating acids. Always apply SPF 30+ the next morning.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Pat Dry
Begin with a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser. Pat skin completely dry — applying retinol to damp skin increases irritation risk significantly (the "wet-skin buffer" trick is not recommended at 0.5%).
Pump a Pea-Sized Amount
One full pump delivers approximately 0.3–0.4 mL of product — enough for the entire face. For sensitive users, use half a pump for the first 2–3 weeks.
Apply in Upward Motions
Dot onto forehead, cheeks, chin and nose, then blend upward and outward with fingertips. Avoid the immediate eye contour, nostrils, and lip line during first use.
Build Frequency Gradually
Week 1–2: every 3 nights. Week 3–4: every other night. Week 5+: nightly as tolerated. Retinisation (redness, flaking, sensitivity) is normal and resolves within 4–8 weeks of consistent use.
Follow with Moisturiser
After full absorption (~60 seconds), apply a ceramide- or squalane-rich moisturiser to lock in hydration and reduce retinol-induced TEWL. ZO's Hydrating Crème is the brand-recommended pairing.
Wear SPF Every Morning
Retinol dramatically increases UV photosensitivity. Apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning without exception. SPF 50 is recommended during the first 3 months of retinol use.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have visible fine lines, wrinkles, or textural irregularities you want to actively treat
- You've used retinol before and have built some tolerance (intermediate to advanced user)
- You want a clinical-strength retinol with a buffered, cream-based formula for better tolerability
- Your goal is collagen stimulation, pore minimisation, or evening skin texture long-term
- You're comfortable committing to nightly SPF and a structured PM routine
- You're looking for a medical-grade, physician-developed product with independent clinical data
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant, planning to become pregnant, or breastfeeding
- You have confirmed fungal acne (Pityrosporum folliculitis) — the fatty esters may worsen breakouts
- You have contact dermatitis triggered by lavender, geranium, linalool, or citronellol
- You have never used retinol before and want to start with a lower concentration (try 0.025–0.1% first)
- You're on a strict budget — there are effective retinols available at a significantly lower price point
- You need a completely fragrance-free formula due to skin reactivity or rosacea
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESIdeal foundation for retinol use. Tolerates the 0.5% concentration well with minimal adjustment period. The cream base provides adequate hydration without heaviness.
Retinol's sebum-regulating properties benefit oily skin long-term. The cream base may feel slightly rich in the T-zone for very oily types — allow full absorption before moisturiser or skip moisturiser in oily zones.
The richest match for dry skin. The cream-lotion base with Sericin, Phospholipids, and Apricot Kernel Oil delivers substantial emolliency alongside retinol's renewal benefits. Follow with a hydrating moisturiser.
The bisabolol, beta-glucan, and meristem cell buffer help, but fragrance allergens (lavender oil, geraniol, citronellol, linalool) are a real concern. Patch test mandatory. A fragrance-free retinol may be safer for very reactive skin.
Retinol normalises keratinisation and reduces sebum production — strong benefits for acne-prone skin. Not suitable if fungal acne is present. For papulo-pustular acne, consult a dermatologist for prescription retinoid protocols.
The primary target user. The combination of 0.5% retinol, ZCORE™ peptide, and ZPRO® hydration support directly addresses the multi-dimensional concerns of mature skin — collagen loss, texture, fine lines, and hydration deficit.
Results timeline
3–6 MONTHSRetinisation — The Adjustment Phase
Most users experience initial redness, mild flaking, and temporary dryness as the skin adjusts to retinol. This is a normal, expected reaction confirming the product is working. Use every 2–3 nights and follow with a rich moisturiser.
~80% experience initial sensitivitySurface Renewal — Smoother Texture Visible
As retinol accelerates cellular turnover, users begin to notice softer skin texture, reduced roughness, and an improved glow. Skin begins to tolerate more frequent application. Mild purging may occur in acne-prone skin.
~60% notice texture improvementFine Line Softening — Early Anti-Ageing Effects
Superficial fine lines begin to visibly soften. Pore appearance may reduce. Skin tone becomes more even. The retinisation phase subsides for most users, and nightly use becomes comfortable. WIMJ science review confirms 6 weeks is the minimum visible change threshold for anti-ageing results.
~70% notice fine line improvementDeeper Wrinkle Reduction — Clinical Benchmark
ZO Skin Health's independent 12-week clinical study reported 98% of participants showed improvement in crow's feet and facial fine lines. Collagen synthesis and dermal remodelling are now measurably underway. Skin appears firmer, more luminous, and substantially smoother.
98% showed improvement at 12 weeks (ZO clinical study)Full Dermal Remodelling — Transformative Results
With consistent nightly use and daily SPF, the full depth of retinol's collagen-stimulating, elastin-preserving, and photoageing-reversing benefits manifest. Deep wrinkles are visibly reduced, skin density improves, and users report looking several years younger. Long-term ZO users (5–6 years reported in reviews) describe sustained improvement with continued use.
~85% report transformative texture and wrinkle resultsRatings by platform
3K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Clinically proven 0.5% retinol with independent 12-week study data — 98% showed wrinkle improvement
- Microemulsion delivery system enhances retinol penetration and stability significantly
- Richly buffered cream base with bisabolol, beta-glucan, and sericin reduces retinisation irritation
- ZCORE™ peptide complex addresses structural skin integrity at the DEJ level
- Comprehensive antioxidant shield protects against oxidative degradation in formula and in skin
- Airless pump packaging protects retinol from air and light oxidation — excellent for stability
- Long-term users (5–6 years) consistently report sustained, transformative anti-ageing results
- Developed by Dr. Zein Obagi — one of dermatology's most respected skin health researchers
Criticized
- Premium price ($168 / 50mL) places it well above comparable OTC retinol options
- Contains lavender oil, geranium oil, and four fragrance allergens — problematic for fragrance-sensitive users
- Not safe during pregnancy or breastfeeding — retinol is a contraindicated category
- Not fungal acne safe — fatty acid esters can exacerbate Malassezia-related breakouts
- Significant initial retinisation phase (weeks 1–4) requires patience and a structured introduction protocol
- Requires consultation at some authorised providers — not available everywhere as a direct purchase
- 50mL bottle may only last 2–3 months with nightly use, adding to the ongoing cost
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Higher retinol concentration (1%) in a lightweight serum base. Fragrance-free, which is a key advantage for sensitive skin. Lacks the peptide complex and sericin ZPRO® system, but offers strong active-ingredient delivery at a more accessible price. A step up for those who have mastered 0.5% retinol.
Matches the 0.5% retinol concentration at a fraction of the cost. Lightweight serum texture rather than a cream base, so tolerance build-up may be steeper. Lacks the ZCORE™ peptide and ZPRO® hydration system, but is fragrance-free and a strong value proposition for retinol-experienced users.
The closest clinical-grade alternative. Also a physician-developed 0.5% retinol cream with an anti-irritant buffer system and antioxidant support. Fragrance-free, which is a meaningful advantage. Comparable price tier and target audience, making it the most direct like-for-like comparison to ZO Wrinkle + Texture Repair.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
La Roche-Posay Redermic R 0.3%
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening. The airless pump minimises air exposure, significantly extending effective retinol potency beyond what dropper or jar formats offer.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Ideal storage temperature is 15–25°C (59–77°F). Refrigeration is not required but can extend efficacy — avoid freezing.
Airless pump dispenser in a 50mL / 1.7 fl. oz tube. The airless pump system prevents retinol oxidation and contamination, ensuring consistent potency from first to last application.
Yes — the 50mL airless pump is within TSA/airline carry-on limits (under 100mL). ZO also offers a travel size (30mL) for frequent travellers.
Frequently asked questions
FAQNo. ZO Skin Health Wrinkle + Texture Repair contains 0.5% retinol, a Vitamin A derivative. All retinoids — including retinol, retinaldehyde, and prescription tretinoin — are contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding due to potential teratogenic risk when absorbed systemically. This applies to topical retinoids used over a significant skin area, which this product is. Discontinue use immediately if you become pregnant and consult your obstetrician. Alternative pregnancy-safe options for skin texture include azelaic acid (10–20%), glycolic acid (low concentrations with physician guidance), and niacinamide.
No. This product contains multiple ingredients that can feed Malassezia yeast and worsen fungal acne (Pityrosporum folliculitis): Polysorbate 20 (emulsifier), Cetearyl Isononanoate (fatty acid ester), Propylheptyl Caprylate (fatty acid ester), and Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil (oleic-acid-rich carrier oil). If you have confirmed fungal acne, avoid this product. Consult a dermatologist for a fungal-acne-safe retinol alternative. Retinol itself does not feed Malassezia, but the carrier formula here is incompatible with this condition.
This product IS the retinol in your routine — do not layer another retinoid on the same evening. For Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), AHAs (glycolic, lactic acid), and BHAs (salicylic acid), avoid using them in the same evening session as Wrinkle + Texture Repair. Over-exfoliation and severe irritation can result. Instead, alternate nights: retinol Monday/Wednesday/Friday, and exfoliating acids on off-nights (Tuesday/Thursday/Saturday). Niacinamide, ceramides, peptide serums, and hyaluronic acid are compatible and can be layered before or after this product in the same routine.
Wrinkle + Texture Repair is technically formulated for all skin types, but it performs best on normal, dry, combination, and mature skin. The rich cream-lotion base makes it ideal for dry and ageing skin that would otherwise struggle with the drying effects of high-strength retinol. Oily skin types can use it but may find the base slightly rich. Sensitive skin can use it with caution — the bisabolol and beta-glucan provide meaningful buffering, but the fragrance allergens (lavender oil, geranium oil, linalool, citronellol, geraniol, citral) are a genuine concern for very reactive skin. If you have fragrance sensitivity, a fragrance-free alternative may be more appropriate.
Based on both clinical data and user reviews: surface texture improvement is typically noticeable within 3–4 weeks with consistent use. Fine line softening begins around weeks 5–8. The clinical benchmark is 12 weeks, at which point ZO's independent study found 98% of participants showed improvement in crow's feet and facial fine lines. Deep wrinkle reduction and significant skin firming generally require 3–6 months of nightly use. Individual results vary based on skin age, baseline condition, frequency of use, and whether SPF is applied daily (which is essential for retinol to work at its full potential).
Wrinkle + Texture Repair is a PM-only product. In your evening routine, apply it after cleansing and any water-based serums (hyaluronic acid, niacinamide), but before a heavier moisturiser. The rule of thumb is thinnest-to-thickest, or water-based before oil-based. After application, wait approximately 60 seconds for the product to absorb before following with your moisturiser. Never use it in the morning — retinol is photolabile (degrades in sunlight) and increases UV photosensitivity. Always apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ the following morning.
Wrinkle + Texture Repair has a comedogenic rating of approximately 2/5, which is considered low-to-moderate and generally safe for most pore-conscious users. The key emollients — Cetearyl Isononanoate (rating 1), Cyclopentasiloxane (rating 1), and Cetyl Alcohol (rating 2) — have low individual ratings. Notably, retinol itself actively helps to unclog pores and normalise keratinisation, which means long-term use often reduces pore appearance rather than worsening it. However, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil (apricot kernel) has a comedogenic rating of 2–3 for some skin types. Patch test on your cheek if you're acne-prone before full-face application.
The Period After Opening (PAO) for Wrinkle + Texture Repair is 12 months. The airless pump packaging is critical here — unlike jar or dropper formats, the airless pump prevents oxygen and light from contacting the retinol with each use, significantly slowing oxidative degradation. One 50mL pump bottle, used nightly (approximately one pump per use), will last approximately 2–3 months. Store in a cool, dry location away from sunlight. If the product develops a yellow or orange tint or an unusual odour, it may have oxidised and should be replaced.
Verdict: ZO Skin Health Wrinkle + Texture Repair is among the most scientifically thoughtful OTC retinol formulas available — the microemulsion delivery system, ZCORE™ peptide complex, ZPRO® hydration system, and comprehensive antioxidant shield represent genuine formulation engineering rather than marketing vocabulary. The 12-week independent clinical study (98% wrinkle improvement) and the brand's long-term user loyalty (6+ years reported) speak to its efficacy. The cream-lotion base makes 0.5% retinol more accessible than most pure serums at this concentration, reducing the dropout rate that usually accompanies high-strength retinol. The meaningful deductions: a $168 price point that places it out of reach for many users when clinically comparable alternatives exist at half the cost, and the fragrance allergen profile (lavender, geranium, linalool, citronellol, geraniol) in a product designed for reactive, retinol-adjusting skin — an avoidable formulation compromise. For fragrance-tolerant, retinol-experienced users committed to long-term anti-ageing results, this is a best-in-class product that justifies the investment.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 3 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 3 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning
|
|
|
| 3 |
Cyclopentasiloxane
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Hair Conditioning
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent - Aqueous, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Viscosity Controlling
|
|