Youth Boosting Advanced Night Retinoid Serum
Youth Boosting Advanced Night Retinoid Serum
Product Description
Product overview
A potent, fragrance-free night serum from e.l.f. Cosmetics featuring a dual-retinoid complex — 1% Granactive Retinoid (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) plus 0.06% Retinal — alongside Matrixyl 3000 peptides, Sodium Hyaluronate, and antioxidant-rich botanicals. Clinically shown to visibly reduce fine lines and wrinkles in just 4 weeks, this dermatologist-grade formula delivers prescription-strength results at a drugstore price.
Dual-Retinoid Complex
Combines 1% Granactive Retinoid (HPR) — direct-acting, low-irritation — with 0.06% Retinal for a multi-pathway attack on fine lines and wrinkles without a prescription.
Texture & feel
SENSORYDual-Retinoid Complex
Combines 1% Granactive Retinoid (HPR) — direct-acting, low-irritation — with 0.06% Retinal for a multi-pathway attack on fine lines and wrinkles without a prescription.
Matrixyl 3000 Peptide Duo
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 work synergistically to stimulate collagen synthesis and reduce inflammatory breakdown, firming skin over time.
Hyaluronic Acid Hydration
Sodium Hyaluronate deeply plumps and moisturizes skin, counteracting the dryness that retinoids can cause for a comfortable, nourished overnight experience.
Antioxidant-Rich Botanicals
Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Acai Berry Extract, Bisabolol, and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate protect against free radical damage and calm post-retinoid redness and irritation.
Probiotic Microbiome Support
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate supports skin's beneficial microbiome, helping reinforce the barrier and reduce the sensitivity that can come with retinoid use.
Sea-Derived Hydrators
Sea Water and Hydrolyzed Algin (seaweed extract) deliver trace minerals and polysaccharides that boost moisture retention and skin resilience overnight.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Granactive Retinoid) and Retinal — both are retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives). All topical retinoids are contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding due to potential teratogenic risk. Consult your OB/GYN before use.
Contains Lecithin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1/Tetrapeptide-7. These fatty acid-rich ingredients can feed Malassezia yeast and may trigger or worsen fungal acne. Those with Malassezia folliculitis should seek an FA-safe alternative.
The formula is water-based and lightweight. Key oils (Sunflower Seed Oil) have a comedogenic rating of 0–2. Overall formulation is non-comedogenic and suitable for acne-prone skin that is not fungal-acne-related.
Contains zero added fragrance or perfume ingredients. Free from common skin allergens, parabens, sulfates, phthalates, triclosan, and nonylphenol ethoxylates — 91% top allergen-free per SkinSafe analysis.
Retinoids (both HPR and Retinal) increase skin's photosensitivity in the early weeks of use. Always apply broad-spectrum SPF 30+ the following morning. With consistent long-term use, retinoids actually help build natural photoprotection.
Some initial dryness, redness, or peeling is normal as skin adjusts (known as "retinization"). Begin with every-other-night application and build up to nightly use over 4–6 weeks. Use the sandwich method with a moisturizer to buffer irritation if needed.
Pairs well with hydrating and barrier-supporting actives. Avoid layering same-night with Vitamin C, AHA/BHA, Benzoyl Peroxide, or other exfoliating acids to prevent over-irritation. Separate actives AM/PM.
The formula includes soothing bisabolol and anti-inflammatory dipotassium glycyrrhizate, which may reduce retinoid irritation. However, rosacea skin may still react to HPR and Retinal. Patch test first and build tolerance gradually.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSHydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Granactive Retinoid) ~0.1% HPR / 1% GRProven
The star active ingredient — a next-generation retinoid that directly binds to retinoid receptors without requiring conversion steps in the skin. Delivers results comparable to retinoic acid (tretinoin) with significantly less irritation. More stable than retinol, making it effective throughout the product's shelf life.
- Mechanism: Direct retinoic acid receptor agonist — no conversion needed, unlike retinol (2 steps) or retinal (1 step)
- Efficacy: In-vitro study (Estee Lauder, JAAD 2018) showed HPR greater collagen gene transcription vs. retinol and retinyl palmitate at equal concentrations
- Irritation Profile: Shown to be significantly less irritating than retinol and tretinoin in comparative studies
- Stability: More oxidatively stable than retinol, maintaining potency throughout product life
Retinal (Retinaldehyde) ~0.25–0.50% / 0.06% labeledProven
A potent Vitamin A derivative one conversion step from retinoic acid, making it significantly stronger than retinol yet available without a prescription. Retinal accelerates cell turnover, improves skin texture, reduces hyperpigmentation, and has demonstrated antibacterial properties against acne-causing bacteria.
- Potency: Approximately 11x more effective than retinol in reducing fine lines in clinical studies
- Antibacterial: Demonstrated activity against P. acnes, offering dual anti-aging and anti-acne benefits
- Synergy: Works complementarily with HPR to target aging via multiple retinoid pathways simultaneously
Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 + Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7) ~0.10–0.15% eachProven
The gold-standard anti-aging peptide complex. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 mimics collagen breakdown fragments to signal fibroblasts to produce new collagen. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 inhibits IL-6 to reduce inflammatory collagen degradation. Together they form Matrixyl 3000™, one of the most studied cosmetic peptide complexes.
- Collagen: Studies show Matrixyl 3000 can double collagen production in vitro, with visible wrinkle reduction in 2-month human trials
- Anti-Inflammatory: Tetrapeptide-7 reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines that accelerate skin aging
- Synergy with Retinoids: Retinoids and peptides work via different mechanisms — combining them provides additive anti-aging benefits
Sodium Hyaluronate trace–0.1%Proven
The sodium salt form of hyaluronic acid with a smaller molecular weight than HA, allowing deeper skin penetration. Holds up to 1,000x its weight in water, delivering intense, long-lasting hydration while plumping fine lines and supporting the skin barrier — critical for counteracting the drying effects of retinoids.
- Penetration: Smaller molecule than standard HA — penetrates deeper into the dermis for superior hydration
- Barrier Support: Helps maintain TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) reduction, keeping skin comfortable overnight
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) traceProven
A potent fat-soluble antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals generated by UV exposure and environmental pollution. Stabilizes the retinoid complex, extends product potency, and provides emollient skin-softening properties. Historically one of the most well-studied skin-beneficial antioxidants.
- Antioxidant: Protects skin lipids from oxidative damage and synergizes with Vitamin C when present
- Stability: Helps prevent retinoid oxidation and degradation within the formula
Bisabolol traceProven
A naturally derived soothing agent (from German chamomile) with well-documented anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and skin-calming properties. Helps reduce the redness, irritation, and sensitivity that can accompany retinoid use, making this formula more tolerable for sensitive skin types.
- Anti-Inflammatory: Reduces pro-inflammatory cytokine production and ameliorates skin inflammation (study: Cosmetic Journal 2014)
- Penetration Enhancer: Can help actives penetrate more effectively into deeper skin layers
Euterpe Oleracea (Açaí) Fruit Extract tracePromising
Açaí berry extract is among the highest known antioxidant botanical extracts, rich in polyphenols, anthocyanins, and essential fatty acids. Scavenges free radicals and supports skin vitality and radiance. Research has confirmed its total antioxidant scavenging capacity in cosmetic applications.
- ORAC Value: Among the highest total oxidant scavenging capacity of any plant extract studied (Euterpe oleracea ORAC study)
- Polyphenols: Rich in anthocyanins and ellagic acid for broad-spectrum antioxidant coverage
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate tracePromising
A probiotic-derived ferment that supports the skin's microbiome and helps reinforce the skin barrier. Provides prebiotic-like benefits, strengthening the skin's natural defenses and reducing inflammation and sensitivity — particularly beneficial alongside active retinoid use.
- Microbiome Support: Helps maintain healthy bacterial balance on the skin surface
- Barrier Reinforcement: Supports ceramide production and reduces TEWL for a more resilient skin barrier
Vigna Aconitifolia (Moth Bean) Seed Extract tracePromising
A legume-derived botanical extract rich in amino acids and minerals that supports skin renewal and hydration. Emerging research suggests it may enhance cell proliferation and skin vitality. A relatively novel cosmetic ingredient with promising early-stage data.
- Renewal: Supports fibroblast activity and skin cell regeneration
- Nutrient-Dense: Provides amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that nourish the skin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Licorice Root) traceProven
The potassium salt of glycyrrhizic acid from licorice root. A clinically-recognized anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening ingredient that inhibits the enzyme responsible for melanin overproduction. Helps calm post-retinoid redness and reduces hyperpigmentation for a more even tone.
- Anti-Inflammatory: Inhibits phospholipase A2, reducing inflammatory mediators in skin
- Brightening: Inhibits tyrosinase activity to help fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation
38 ingredients
Water, Propanediol, PEG-8, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol, Diglycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, Tromethamine, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Bisabolol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Retinal, Disodium EDTA, Glycerin, Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, Sea Water, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Hydrolyzed Algin, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Sucrose, Carbomer, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply at night only, on clean dry skin before moisturizer. Always follow with SPF 30+ the next morning. Do not layer with AHA/BHA or Vitamin C in the same routine.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse Thoroughly
Start with a gentle cleanser to remove makeup, SPF, and daily impurities. Pat skin dry — applying to damp skin may increase irritation from the retinoid complex.
Apply Toner (Optional)
If using a hydrating toner, apply first and allow to fully absorb before the serum. Avoid toners with AHA, BHA, or Vitamin C on nights you use this product.
Dispense a Pea-Sized Amount
Use one pump to dispense a pea-sized amount. A little goes a long way — using more than needed increases irritation risk without improving results. Note the natural amber/orange color is from the retinoid complex, not artificial dye.
Blend onto Face and Neck
Gently blend onto your face and neck in upward, outward motions. Avoid the immediate eye and lip area where skin is most delicate. Allow 15–20 minutes to fully absorb before layering.
Seal with Moisturizer
Immediately follow with a hydrating moisturizer to lock in the serum, reduce any potential retinoid irritation, and support the skin barrier overnight. For sensitive skin, use the "sandwich method" — apply moisturizer before AND after.
New Users: Build Up Gradually
If new to retinoids, start with every-other-night use for the first 2–4 weeks. Gradually increase to nightly as your skin builds tolerance. Some initial dryness or flaking is normal during the "retinization" period.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You want to target fine lines, wrinkles, and skin texture
- You're new to retinoids and want a gentler entry point
- You have oily, combination, normal, or mildly dry skin
- You want prescription-strength results at a drugstore price
- You're dealing with early signs of aging and mild hyperpigmentation
- You prefer fragrance-free, vegan, and cruelty-free skincare
- You want acne-fighting AND anti-aging benefits in one step
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding (retinoids are contraindicated)
- You have fungal acne / Malassezia folliculitis (not FA-safe)
- You are completely new to skincare with very reactive skin (start with plain retinol first)
- You want to use AHA/BHA/Vitamin C in the same routine
- You have extremely dry, compromised barrier skin without moisturizer backup
- You are under 18 (retinoids generally recommended for adults)
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight, water-based formula absorbs without adding shine. Retinoids regulate sebum production over time, making this ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.
Balances well across T-zone and drier cheek areas. Hyaluronic acid provides hydration where needed while retinoids target oilier zones.
Works seamlessly for normal skin types for proactive anti-aging. Pair with a moderate moisturizer for best results and to prevent any retinoid dryness.
Good with the right supporting routine. Always follow with a rich moisturizer — or use the sandwich method. Ramp up slowly to minimize retinoid-induced dryness and flaking.
Fragrance-free formula with calming bisabolol and glycyrrhizate helps. However, the retinal component adds irritation risk. Patch test first; use every 2–3 nights and build up very gradually.
Results timeline
3–6 MONTHSImmediate Hydration & Plumping
Skin feels visibly more hydrated and radiant from the first application, thanks to Sodium Hyaluronate and multi-humectant base. The serum absorbs in 15–20 minutes leaving a dewy, nourished finish.
94% noticed more radiant, plumped skinSkin Renewal Begins / Retinization Period
The retinoid complex begins accelerating cell turnover. Some mild dryness, sensitivity, or initial purging may occur as skin adjusts. This is normal — maintain consistent use and support with a rich moisturizer.
94% woke to visibly renewed skin overnightVisible Smoothing & Fine Line Reduction
Retinoid-driven cell turnover becomes visible as surface texture refines and early fine lines appear softer. Skin looks smoother, more even-toned, and noticeably more radiant. The retinization side effects typically subside by this point.
100% said skin felt significantly smoother and more radiantMeasurable Wrinkle Improvement
Clinical evidence demonstrates statistically significant improvement in fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides (Matrixyl 3000) begin contributing visible firmness improvements. Hyperpigmentation and dark spots start to fade with accelerated turnover.
97% showed visible improvement in fine lines and wrinklesStructural Skin Transformation
Long-term retinoid use promotes collagen synthesis in the dermis for deeper, more structural improvements. Pores appear refined, skin tone is more even, and overall skin quality improves markedly. Results continue to compound with consistent nightly use.
97% said skin looked more youthful and radiantRatings by platform
17K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Exceptionally affordable price for 1% Granactive Retinoid + Retinal formula
- Fragrance-free, making it rare among drugstore retinoid serums
- Lightweight texture absorbs well — no greasiness or residue
- Clinically-backed claims with consumer study data
- Includes Matrixyl 3000 peptide complex for added anti-aging synergy
- Pump packaging minimizes oxidation and contamination
- 100% vegan and cruelty-free, Fair Trade Certified™
- Amber color reassures users of formula potency (natural, not dye)
Criticized
- Not pregnancy or breastfeeding safe — a dealbreaker for expecting mothers
- Not fungal acne safe due to lecithin, fatty acids, and ferment ingredients
- Amber/orange color can transfer onto pillowcases if not fully absorbed
- Small bottle (1 fl oz) may feel expensive relative to volume
- Retinal component can cause purging or irritation in retinoid beginners
- Not suitable for mixing with other actives (Vitamin C, AHAs) same night
- Results require consistent 4–8+ week commitment to see full benefits
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Uses 2% Granactive Retinoid (HPR) in a simple emulsion base — same key active at higher concentration but without Retinal, peptides, or the supporting antioxidant complex. Less elegant texture and no pump packaging, but extremely affordable for HPR-focused results.
Uses 1% traditional retinol (requires 2 conversion steps vs. HPR's 0) with added peptides and antioxidants. Excellent formulation with strong clinical backing, but standard retinol is more likely to cause irritation than HPR. Higher price point than e.l.f.
Uses 0.3% pure retinol — less potent mechanism than HPR or Retinal but with extensive clinical data behind the L'Oréal formula. Fragrance-free and widely available. Lacks the dual-retinoid and peptide synergy of the e.l.f. serum. Good beginner option for retinoid newcomers.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening. Use within this period for optimal retinoid potency — HPR is more stable than retinol but will degrade with prolonged exposure to light and air.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Avoid storing in humid bathrooms — a bedroom vanity or cabinet is ideal. Do not refrigerate (may alter texture) unless in very warm climates.
Pump-dispenser bottle in amber/dark packaging. The pump format minimizes air and light exposure, helping to preserve the retinoid complex's potency compared to open-top jar formulations.
Yes — 1.0 fl oz (29.5ml) is under the TSA 100ml/3.4 oz liquid carry-on limit. Pump format is spill-resistant and travel-friendly. Place upright in a clear toiletry bag.
Frequently asked questions
FAQNo — this serum is NOT safe during pregnancy or breastfeeding. It contains two retinoids: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Granactive Retinoid, 1% concentration) and Retinal (0.06%). All topical retinoids are classified as Vitamin A derivatives, and excessive Vitamin A intake during pregnancy is associated with teratogenic risk (birth defects). While topical absorption is lower than oral, dermatologists and OB/GYNs universally advise avoiding all retinoid products during pregnancy and breastfeeding as a precaution. Safe alternatives include products with Bakuchiol, Peptides, Niacinamide, or Vitamin C for anti-aging during pregnancy.
No — this serum is NOT safe for fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis). It contains several ingredients that can feed Malassezia yeast: Lecithin (a fatty acid ester derived from soy/egg), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (rich in linoleic acid, a known Malassezia trigger), Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate (fermented ingredient), and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 / Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (palmitic acid base). If you have fungal acne, consider an FA-safe retinoid alternative such as The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane, or a product using a different base without fatty acid esters or ferments.
Do not layer this serum with Vitamin C, AHA (glycolic, lactic acid), or BHA (salicylic acid) in the same nighttime routine — combining multiple actives significantly increases the risk of irritation, barrier damage, and redness. The recommended approach is AM/PM separation: apply Vitamin C or exfoliating acids in your morning routine (followed by SPF), and use this retinoid serum only at night. Additionally, you do not need to add additional retinol when using this product — it already contains two forms of retinoids (HPR + Retinal) and adding more would over-exfoliate. Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, and Peptides are all compatible and can be layered on the same night.
e.l.f. formulates this serum for oily, dry, normal, and combination skin types. In practice, it performs best on oily, combination, and normal skin due to its lightweight, water-based texture. For dry skin, it works well when followed with a richer moisturizer or when using the "sandwich method." Sensitive skin types can use it but should start very gradually (every 2–3 nights) and build up tolerance over several weeks. It is NOT suitable for those with fungal acne or during pregnancy/breastfeeding.
Results appear in stages. Immediate hydration and radiance are noticeable from the first night due to Sodium Hyaluronate and humectants — 94% of users in clinical studies reported more radiant, plumped skin after first use. Initial improvements in fine line appearance typically begin around weeks 3–4, with 97% showing visible improvement in fine lines and wrinkles after 4 weeks in studies. For deeper structural changes (collagen production, significant wrinkle depth reduction), consistent nightly use for 3–6 months is recommended. Note: retinoids work in the deeper dermis and require long-term commitment for maximum results.
Apply this serum as step 3 in your PM routine: Cleanser → Toner (optional) → This Retinoid Serum → Moisturizer. For maximum absorption, apply to clean, dry skin before your moisturizer. The thin-to-thick layering rule applies — serums go before creams. If using a hydrating toner, allow it to fully absorb first. If you are sensitive or new to retinoids, you can apply a thin layer of moisturizer first, then the serum, then another layer of moisturizer (the "sandwich method") to reduce potential irritation. Only use at night — retinoids increase photosensitivity and are less stable in UV light. Always use SPF 30+ the next morning.
The serum has a low overall comedogenic rating of approximately 1/5. It is water-based and lightweight, with no heavy oils, waxes, or high-comedogenic ingredients. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, which appears in the formula, has a comedogenic rating of 0–2 (low). In fact, retinoids are known to help prevent clogged pores and acne by regulating cell turnover and reducing follicular hyperkeratosis. While any product can cause breakouts in individual users (especially during initial retinoid "purging"), this formula is considered non-comedogenic and is suitable for acne-prone skin (excluding fungal acne).
Once opened, use within 12 months (PAO: 12M). Since Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is more stable than retinol, it maintains potency longer after opening — but using within 12 months ensures maximum efficacy. The pump packaging helps extend shelf life by minimizing air and light exposure with each use. At a pea-sized amount per application used nightly, the 1.0 fl oz (29.5ml) bottle typically lasts 2–4 months with consistent daily use, meaning you won't need to worry about the 12-month window. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to preserve the retinoid complex.
Verdict: The e.l.f. Youth Boosting Advanced Night Retinoid Serum is a standout overachiever in the drugstore skincare category. The combination of 1% Granactive Retinoid (HPR) and 0.06% Retinal delivers a dual-retinoid punch that rivals formulas costing three to five times more. Backed by Matrixyl 3000 peptides, Sodium Hyaluronate, and a thoughtful antioxidant blend including Acai Berry, Vitamin E, and Bisabolol, this serum addresses fine lines, wrinkles, texture, and radiance from multiple angles simultaneously. The fragrance-free, vegan, Fair Trade Certified formulation demonstrates that e.l.f. is serious about ingredient integrity. The main caveats are its unsuitability for pregnancy, breastfeeding, and fungal acne-prone skin — all due to the inclusion of retinoids, lecithin, and ferment ingredients. For everyone else seeking proven, science-backed anti-aging results without breaking the bank, this is one of the most complete and cost-effective retinoid serums available without a prescription.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 5 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 5 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 2 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Propanediol
Solvent, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
|
|
|
| 0 |
PEG-8
Humectant, Solvent
|
|
|
| 0 |
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Methyl Gluceth-20
Humectant, Moisturising
|
|