Azelain Serum
Azelain Serum
Product Description
Product overview
A minimalist German pharmacy serum with 3% azelaic acid, panthenol and allantoin that targets redness, blemishes and uneven skin tone. Lightweight, fragrance-free and formulated with only 15 clean ingredients for gentle yet effective daily use.
Reduces Redness & Irritation
Azelaic acid calms inflammation and soothes redness from rosacea, post-acne marks and general skin sensitivity.
Texture & feel
SENSORYReduces Redness & Irritation
Azelaic acid calms inflammation and soothes redness from rosacea, post-acne marks and general skin sensitivity.
Brightens Uneven Skin Tone
Inhibits excess melanin production to help fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory marks over time.
Strengthens Skin Barrier
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) and allantoin work together to repair and reinforce your skin's natural protective barrier.
Clears Blemishes & Unclogs Pores
Azelaic acid's antibacterial and mild exfoliating properties help prevent breakouts and reduce clogged pores.
Hydrates Without Heaviness
Glycerin and propylene glycol provide humectant hydration without greasiness, suitable for layering under moisturizer.
Minimalist 15-Ingredient Formula
Clean, no-fuss formulation free from fragrances, parabens, silicones, sulfates and harsh alcohols. Less is more.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEAzelaic acid is FDA Category B and recommended by the AAD as safe during pregnancy and lactation. Less than 4% is absorbed topically.
Contains isopropyl palmitate, an ester that can feed Malassezia yeast and trigger fungal acne flare-ups. Avoid if you have pityrosporum folliculitis.
While isopropyl palmitate has a high individual rating (4/5), its low concentration in this formula results in minimal pore-clogging risk overall (1/5).
Unlike AHAs and retinoids, azelaic acid does not increase sun sensitivity. However, daily SPF 30+ is still recommended for best results.
Do not use alongside high-concentration AHA/BHA/PHA peels. A mild tingling or initial purging period is possible when first starting.
Can be layered with retinol and vitamin C serums. Azelaic acid can actually help reduce retinol irritation and boost brightening effects.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSAzelaic Acid 3%Proven
A naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid with powerful anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and brightening properties. Targets acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation and uneven texture simultaneously.
- Anti-acne: Kills P. acnes bacteria and unclogs pores through gentle exfoliation.
- Brightening: Inhibits tyrosinase enzyme to reduce melanin production and fade dark spots.
- Anti-inflammatory: Calms redness and irritation, making it ideal for rosacea-prone skin.
- Research: Studies show 15–20% azelaic acid rivals benzoyl peroxide and tretinoin for acne efficacy. At 3%, effects are milder but suitable for daily maintenance.
Glycerin ~5–8%Proven
A powerful humectant naturally found in skin. Draws moisture from the environment into the upper skin layers, keeping skin plump, hydrated and soft.
- Hydration: A 2016 study found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.
- Barrier support: Maintains skin lipids in a healthy liquid crystal state, protecting against irritation.
- Comedogenic rating: 0/5 — completely non-comedogenic.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) ~1.5–2.3%Proven
Converts to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) in the skin. Deeply moisturizes, soothes inflammation, and accelerates wound healing and skin barrier repair.
- Barrier repair: Strengthens the skin's protective lipid barrier to reduce water loss.
- Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness and irritation, especially beneficial after exfoliation or active treatments.
- Wound healing: Promotes tissue regeneration and helps close open wounds faster.
Allantoin ~1.1–1.6%Proven
A soothing and protective ingredient known for promoting wound healing and skin softening. Acts as a buffer to reduce irritation from active ingredients.
- Soothing: Calms irritated skin and provides a protective, comforting layer.
- Cell renewal: Promotes healthy cell turnover for smoother, softer skin texture.
- Scar support: May help improve the appearance of minor scars, though evidence is limited.
Isopropyl Palmitate ~3–5%Functional
An emollient ester that gives the serum its silky, spreadable texture and helps active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively.
- Texture: Creates a smooth, non-greasy feel and improves product spreadability.
- Penetration enhancer: Helps azelaic acid absorb more effectively into the skin.
15 ingredients
Aqua, Azelaic Acid, Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Propylene Glycol, Panthenol, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Tapioca Starch, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply morning and evening after cleansing. Always follow with SPF 30+ in the morning. Can be layered under other serums or directly under moisturizer.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse Your Face
Start with a gentle cleanser to remove makeup, dirt and excess oil. Pat skin dry with a soft towel.
Apply 2–3 Drops
Dispense 2–3 drops of the Azelain Serum onto your fingertips. Apply evenly across face, neck and décolleté.
Gently Massage In
Using light, upward motions, massage the serum into your skin until fully absorbed. Avoid the eye area and mucous membranes.
Follow with Moisturizer & SPF
Layer your moisturizer on top to seal in hydration. In the morning, always finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You struggle with redness, rosacea or post-acne marks
- You want a gentle introduction to azelaic acid
- You prefer minimalist, fragrance-free formulas
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding and need safe active skincare
- You have mild acne or occasional breakouts
- You want to even out skin tone and fade dark spots
- You want an affordable European pharmacy alternative
Consider alternatives if:
- You have fungal acne (contains isopropyl palmitate)
- You need a higher concentration of azelaic acid (10–20%)
- You have severe cystic acne requiring prescription-strength treatment
- You want additional actives like niacinamide or salicylic acid in one product
- You prefer silicone-based textures for a smoother primer-like finish
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight gel absorbs quickly without adding shine. Azelaic acid helps regulate sebum and prevent breakouts.
Glycerin and panthenol provide good hydration, but pair with a richer moisturizer on top for best results on dry skin.
Balances well across oily and dry zones. Non-greasy formula adapts to different areas of the face without clogging pores.
Fragrance-free with soothing allantoin and panthenol. The 3% concentration is gentle enough for reactive skin. Patch test recommended.
Helpful for mild acne and prevention. For moderate-to-severe acne, a higher concentration (10–20%) may be needed for stronger results.
Results timeline
MONTH 4–6Initial Adjustment
Skin adapts to the serum. Mild tingling on first applications is normal. Some users may experience a brief purging period with minor breakouts before improvement.
70% noticed improved skin feelReduced Redness & Smoother Texture
Visible reduction in redness and inflammation. Skin texture begins to smooth out, and active breakouts start to calm noticeably.
60% noticed less rednessBrighter, More Even Skin Tone
Post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation begin to fade. Overall complexion looks more even and radiant with consistent daily use.
75% noticed brighter skinLong-Term Clarity & Maintenance
Full benefits are realized with continued use. Clearer, calmer skin with fewer breakouts and more uniform tone. Best results when used as part of a consistent routine.
80% reported overall skin improvementRatings by platform
500+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Extremely affordable German pharmacy price point
- Clean, minimalist formula with only 15 ingredients
- Fragrance-free and gentle enough for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding safe (FDA Category B)
- Lightweight texture that layers well under other products
- Does not cause photosensitivity unlike AHAs
- Soothing combination of panthenol and allantoin
- Dermatologically tested
Criticized
- Only 3% azelaic acid — lower than most competitors (10%)
- Contains isopropyl palmitate — not fungal acne safe
- Small 30ml bottle depletes quickly with twice-daily use
- Not widely available outside Germany and EU
- No additional actives like niacinamide or salicylic acid
- Results take longer due to lower concentration
- Mild initial tingling may concern first-time users
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Higher concentration (10% vs 3%) in a silicone-based suspension. Grainy texture that some find less elegant. More potent for hyperpigmentation and acne, but may cause more initial stinging.
10% azelaic acid with added niacinamide for enhanced brightening. Watery serum texture. More active ingredients but less minimalist formula. Good value for combination concerns.
10% azelaic acid with micro-fine green color particles to mask redness. Slightly thicker texture. Contains allantoin like the ISANA but with added color-correcting benefit.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
6 MONTHS6 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Keep the cap tightly closed after each use.
Dropper bottle with pipette for precise application
Yes, 30 ml is under the 100 ml carry-on liquid limit
Frequently asked questions
FAQYes. Azelaic acid is classified as FDA Pregnancy Category B and is recommended by the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) as safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Less than 4% of topically applied azelaic acid is absorbed into the bloodstream. It is a naturally occurring substance found in grains and the human body. The ISANA formula also contains no retinoids, no salicylic acid and no hydroquinone. However, always consult your healthcare provider before starting any new skincare product during pregnancy.
No. This serum contains isopropyl palmitate, an ester that can feed Malassezia yeast and potentially trigger or worsen fungal acne (pityrosporum folliculitis). If you are prone to fungal acne, consider alternatives like The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%, which uses a silicone-based formula without problematic esters.
Yes, azelaic acid pairs well with retinol and vitamin C. It can actually help reduce retinol-related irritation and boost brightening effects when used with vitamin C. However, avoid combining it with high-concentration AHA/BHA/PHA peels, as this may cause excessive irritation. For daily low-percentage acids (like a 2% BHA toner), you can typically use them together. Start slowly and monitor your skin's response.
This serum works well for all skin types, but it is especially excellent for sensitive, oily and combination skin. The fragrance-free, minimalist formula with soothing panthenol and allantoin makes it ideal for reactive or rosacea-prone skin. Dry skin types may benefit from layering a richer moisturizer on top. For acne-prone skin, the 3% concentration is best suited for mild concerns and maintenance.
Most users notice softer, calmer skin within the first 1–2 weeks. Visible improvements in redness and texture typically appear at weeks 3–4. For hyperpigmentation and dark spots, expect to see meaningful fading around months 2–3 of consistent use. Full results, including more even skin tone, generally take 4–6 months. The lower 3% concentration means results develop more gradually compared to 10% products.
Apply it as step 3 in your routine: after cleansing and toning, but before moisturizer and sunscreen. Use 2–3 drops on face, neck and décolleté morning and evening. In the morning, always finish your routine with SPF 30+. The lightweight gel texture layers easily under other products without pilling.
The overall formulation has a low comedogenic rating of 1/5. While it contains isopropyl palmitate (individually rated 4/5), the low concentration in this formula minimizes pore-clogging risk for most skin types. The majority of ingredients — including glycerin (0/5), panthenol, and allantoin — are non-comedogenic. If you have extremely acne-prone skin, patch test first. Most users report no breakouts from regular use.
The recommended period after opening (PAO) is 6 months. The 30 ml dropper bottle, used at 2–3 drops twice daily, typically lasts approximately 6–8 weeks. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain potency. Discard if you notice any change in color, texture or smell.
Verdict: The ISANA Azelain Serum is an excellent entry-level azelaic acid product at an unbeatable price point. Its clean, minimalist 15-ingredient formula with soothing panthenol and allantoin makes it perfect for sensitive skin, rosacea sufferers and anyone pregnant or breastfeeding who needs safe active skincare. The main trade-off is the lower 3% concentration, which means results come more gradually than with 10% alternatives. Not suitable for fungal acne due to isopropyl palmitate. If you want gentle, affordable daily maintenance for redness, mild blemishes and uneven tone — this is a smart, no-nonsense choice from Germany's trusted drugstore brand.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 1 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 3 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 5 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 1 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 1 |
Azelaic Acid
Masking, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Buffering
|
Brightening
Ache-fighting
Promotes Wound Healing
Redness
Irritation
Texture
Pores
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Isopropyl Palmitate
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Perfuming, Emollient, Fragrance, Antistatic Agent, Binding Agent, Binding, Masking
|
|
|
| 3 |
Propylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
|
Hydrating
|