Lotion P50
Lotion P50
Product Description
Product overview
The cult French exfoliating lotion from Biologique Recherche — a multi-acid, multi-botanical toner that cleanses, exfoliates, and rebalances the skin's acid mantle in a single step. Beloved by facialists, beauty editors, and skincare obsessives worldwide for over four decades, Lotion P50 is a cornerstone of the Biologique Recherche epidermal reconditioning method.
Multi-Acid Exfoliation Complex
Combines AHAs (lactic, citric, malic), BHA (salicylic), and PHA (gluconolactone) to exfoliate across all skin layers — surface, pore lining, and intercellular — for comprehensive resurfacing without harsh abrasion.
Texture & feel
SENSORYMulti-Acid Exfoliation Complex
Combines AHAs (lactic, citric, malic), BHA (salicylic), and PHA (gluconolactone) to exfoliate across all skin layers — surface, pore lining, and intercellular — for comprehensive resurfacing without harsh abrasion.
Acid Mantle Rebalancing
The "P" stands for Peeling, the "50" for two 25-day epidermal cycles. Daily use over 50 days helps restore the skin's natural pH balance, strengthening its protective barrier function and self-renewal capacity.
Niacinamide Brightening
A meaningful concentration of Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) works in synergy with the acids to visibly reduce pore size, fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and even skin tone while reinforcing the barrier.
Botanical Purifying Extracts
Horseradish root, burdock root, sorrel leaf, myrtle, myrrh resin, and onion bulb extracts provide antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and sebum-regulating benefits to keep pores clear and breakouts at bay.
Hydration Maintenance
Glycerin, sorbitol, and gluconolactone (a PHA humectant) attract and bind moisture to the skin during exfoliation, preventing the dryness or tightness commonly associated with acid toners.
Sulfur Purification
Sulfur — a classical dermatological ingredient — delivers additional antimicrobial and keratolytic action, making this lotion especially effective against comedones, cystic acne, and congested pores.
Safety & compatibility
SAFENot recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Contains salicylic acid (BHA), which is flagged for caution in high systemic exposure. Consult your OB/GYN before use. Occasional topical use of low-concentration BHA is generally considered low-risk but the product also contains thyme essential oil and camphor, which should be avoided during pregnancy.
This formula is fungal acne safe. It contains no fatty acids, fermented ingredients, polysorbates, or known Malassezia-feeding esters. The salicylic acid and sulfur are in fact anti-fungal actives that can actively help treat fungal acne.
Non-comedogenic overall. The formula is water-based and contains no occlusive oils. Propylene glycol (rating 0) and glycerin (rating 0) are the primary humectants. Suitable for acne-prone and congested skin.
The multi-acid formula can cause initial tingling, redness, or peeling during the first 1–2 weeks of use. Start with every other day application on a damp cotton pad to buffer intensity. If severe irritation persists, discontinue and try Lotion P50W (the sensitive-skin variant).
AHAs and BHAs increase photosensitivity. Always apply SPF 30+ sunscreen every morning when using this product. Avoid direct sun exposure immediately after application. This is especially critical for daytime use.
Contains naturally-derived fragrance components including linalool, limonene, citral, eugenol, cinnamal, farnesol, coumarin, and oakmoss/treemoss extracts. Those with fragrance sensitivities should patch test carefully or opt for a less fragrant variant.
Can be used in the same routine as retinoids when introduced carefully — apply on alternate days initially. Do not layer directly on top of tretinoin. Many estheticians recommend P50 in the morning and retinoids at night to avoid over-exfoliation.
Not suitable for use on children under 3 years of age. Do not apply to scratched, irritated, or broken skin. Keep out of reach of children.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSGluconolactone ~5–8%Proven
A Poly-Hydroxy Acid (PHA) that delivers gentle chemical exfoliation with simultaneous humectant hydration. As the second ingredient in this formula, it is present at a high and clinically meaningful concentration. Gluconolactone is structurally larger than AHAs, meaning it penetrates more slowly and causes significantly less irritation — ideal for sensitive or reactive skin. It also has antioxidant properties and chelates metal ions that can degrade skin quality.
- Exfoliation: Loosens desmosomal connections between corneocytes, facilitating controlled shedding of the stratum corneum.
- Hydration: Acts as a humectant binding water molecules to the outer skin layers, preventing acid-induced dryness.
- Antioxidant: Chelates iron and copper ions that catalyze free radical damage and collagen degradation.
- Tolerance: Clinical studies show PHAs are significantly less irritating than AHAs at equivalent concentrations, making them suitable even for eczema-prone skin.
Lactic Acid ~2–5%Proven
An AHA (Alpha-Hydroxy Acid) derived from fermented milk sugars. One of the gentler AHAs due to its larger molecular size relative to glycolic acid, yet highly effective at accelerating cellular turnover, improving texture, and reducing hyperpigmentation. In Lotion P50 it works in concert with the other acids to create a comprehensive resurfacing effect without the harshness of single-acid formulas at high concentrations.
- Cellular Turnover: Breaks ionic bonds holding dead skin cells to the surface, revealing fresher, more radiant skin beneath.
- Hydration: Acts as a natural moisturizing factor (NMF), attracting and retaining water in the skin.
- Collagen Stimulation: At higher concentrations, lactic acid has demonstrated dermal collagen stimulation, improving firmness over time.
- Pigmentation: Inhibits tyrosinase activity and accelerates the shedding of melanin-laden corneocytes, effectively fading dark spots.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) ~2–4%Proven
A water-soluble form of Vitamin B3 with an extensive evidence base in dermatology. Niacinamide is a true multitasker — it reduces sebum production, minimizes pore appearance, inhibits melanosome transfer to keratinocytes (fading hyperpigmentation), reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and strengthens the skin's lipid barrier. Its presence here is especially valuable as it counterbalances the potential barrier disruption caused by the acid complex.
- Pore Size: Multiple placebo-controlled studies confirm niacinamide significantly reduces visible pore size within 4–8 weeks.
- Brightening: Inhibits the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, reducing hyperpigmentation without bleaching.
- Barrier Repair: Stimulates ceramide and fatty acid production in the skin, reinforcing the protective lipid barrier.
- Anti-inflammatory: Reduces cytokine-mediated inflammation, calming acne-related redness and papules.
Citric + Malic + Phytic Acids ~0.5–2% eachProven
Three additional organic acids that complete P50's multi-acid exfoliation system. Citric acid (from citrus) and malic acid (from apples) are AHAs providing mild exfoliation, pH buffering, and brightening. Phytic acid (from rice bran) is a gentler chelating acid that inhibits tyrosinase for brightening, controls melanin production, and has antioxidant properties. Together, they broaden the formula's exfoliation spectrum while keeping any single acid concentration at a safer, less-irritating level.
- Citric Acid: Strongest antioxidant among the AHAs; also acts as a pH adjuster to maintain the formula's optimal acidic environment.
- Malic Acid: Larger molecule than citric; gentler exfoliation with good hydrating properties. Common in combination peel formulas for this reason.
- Phytic Acid: Chelates copper ions involved in melanin synthesis, providing a brightening effect without skin-bleaching chemicals.
Salicylic Acid (BHA) ~0.5–1%Proven
The only BHA (Beta-Hydroxy Acid) in this formula. Unlike AHAs, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate inside the pore lining to dissolve sebum plugs, blackheads, and comedones from within. At the concentration used in P50, it provides targeted pore-clearing action and mild anti-inflammatory benefits without the intense peeling sometimes seen at prescription-strength levels.
- Pore Clearing: Dissolves the sebum and dead skin cell mixture that forms comedones, addressing blackheads at the root.
- Anti-inflammatory: Derived from salicin; reduces prostaglandin-mediated inflammation, calming active breakouts.
- Keratolytic: Loosens intercellular bonds within follicular infundibulum, preventing future comedone formation.
Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract trace–1%Promising
A cruciferous plant extract with strong antimicrobial and antiseptic properties. Horseradish contains glucosinolates and isothiocyanates with documented antibacterial activity. In the context of P50, it contributes to the formula's pore-purifying and anti-acne action alongside salicylic acid and sulfur. It also has antioxidant properties from its polyphenol content.
- Antimicrobial: Isothiocyanates exhibit broad-spectrum antibacterial activity, including against Cutibacterium acnes.
- Antioxidant: Rich in glucosinolates and phenolic compounds that neutralize oxidative damage in skin cells.
Arctium Lappa (Burdock) Root Extract trace–1%Promising
A traditional herbal extract used in European and Asian medicine for centuries to treat skin conditions. Burdock root is rich in inulin, mucilage, polyacetylenes, and flavonoids with demonstrated anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and mild antibacterial properties. It is particularly valued for its ability to regulate sebum production and soothe irritated, blemish-prone skin.
- Sebum Regulation: Traditionally used for oily and congested skin; modern research supports mild sebostatic activity.
- Anti-inflammatory: Arctiin and arctigenin compounds reduce inflammatory cytokine expression in skin cells.
Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Oil tracePromising
An essential oil with potent antimicrobial properties, thyme oil contains thymol and carvacrol — phenolic compounds with broad-spectrum antimicrobial and antifungal activity. Its presence in P50 contributes to the formula's overall ability to keep pores clean and inhibit acne-causing bacteria. It is also partly responsible for the distinctive, herbal-medicinal scent of the lotion.
- Antimicrobial: Thymol demonstrates inhibitory activity against Cutibacterium acnes at very low concentrations.
- Antifungal: Carvacrol and thymol have confirmed antifungal activity, further supporting the product's fungal acne safety.
Sulfur trace–0.5%Proven
One of the oldest dermatological actives — sulfur has been used to treat acne, seborrheic dermatitis, and rosacea for over a century. In Lotion P50, it provides keratolytic (skin-softening), antimicrobial, and anti-seborrheic activity at a low, well-tolerated concentration. At this level it contributes meaningfully to the formula's pore-clearing and anti-acne efficacy without causing the dryness or peeling associated with higher-concentration sulfur masks.
- Keratolytic: Softens and loosens the corneocyte layer, facilitating exfoliation synergistically with the acid complex.
- Antimicrobial: Disrupts microbial enzyme systems, effectively suppressing C. acnes proliferation.
- Anti-seborrheic: Regulates excess sebum production, contributing to the long-term mattifying effects reported by users.
52 ingredients
Water (Aqua), Gluconolactone, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Ethoxydiglycol, Citric Acid, Magnesium Chloride, Malic Acid, Phytic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Cochlearia Armoracia (Horseradish) Root Extract, Sorbitol, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Acetic Acid (Vinegar), Rumex Acetosa Leaf Extract, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Flower/Leaf Oil, Beta-Caryophyllene, Alpha-Terpinene, Camphor, Linalool, Limonene, Pinene, Terpineol, Anethole, Anise Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Cinnamate, Benzyl Salicylate, Caramel, Cinnamal, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Farnesol, Geranial, Isoeugenol, Menthol, Potassium Sorbate, Sulfur.
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse after cleansing as the very first active step — it prepares and primes skin for serums and moisturizers that follow. Apply AM and/or PM. Always finish your morning routine with SPF 30+.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse Thoroughly
Start with a gentle, non-stripping cleanser suited to your skin type. Pat skin dry. Clean skin is essential so the acids can work uniformly without barriers from makeup, SPF, or excess sebum.
First Week: Use a Damp Cotton Pad
For the first 7 days, lightly dampen a cotton pad with water before applying the lotion. This buffers the formula's intensity while your skin builds tolerance. The product is notably potent for first-time users.
From Week 2: Saturate the Cotton Pad
Once tolerance is established, soak a cotton pad generously with Lotion P50. Gently sweep over the face, neck, and décolleté using upward strokes. Avoid the eye area and lips.
Do Not Rinse
Leave on — do not rinse. Allow 1–2 minutes for the acids to absorb before applying any additional products. A mild tingling sensation is normal, especially at first.
Follow with Serum & Moisturizer
Proceed immediately with your targeted serums and a moisturizer to seal in hydration. In the morning, always finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen to protect newly exfoliated skin.
Frequency
Biologique Recherche recommends daily use (morning and/or evening) once your skin is acclimated. Many users begin with once daily or every other day and work up. Do not use on irritated or broken skin.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have oily, congested, or acne-prone skin
- You're dealing with dullness, uneven texture, or enlarged pores
- You want a single product to replace multiple toners and exfoliants
- You're looking to fade post-acne hyperpigmentation
- You enjoy esthetician-grade, professional skincare at home
- You want to optimize absorption of serums and moisturizers
- Your skin is combination or normal with resilience for acids
- You're seeking a long-term investment product with decades of track record
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding (salicylic acid concern)
- You have extremely sensitive or compromised skin barrier
- You're undergoing prescription retinoic acid (tretinoin) treatment without professional guidance
- You have known fragrance allergies (contains natural fragrance components)
- You prefer fragrance-free formulas — consider Lotion P50W instead
- You're on a tight budget (this is a premium French prestige product)
- You have active eczema, rosacea flare, or open wound breakouts
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESIdeal for oily skin. The BHA, sulfur, and botanical extracts regulate sebum, clear pores, and mattify the complexion. Long-term users consistently report reduced oiliness and fewer breakouts.
One of the best skin types for P50. Targets oiliness in the T-zone with the BHA/sulfur complex while maintaining hydration in drier areas via glycerin and gluconolactone PHA.
Works beautifully as a maintenance exfoliant and pore-refiner. Normal skin types typically tolerate P50 well from the start, experiencing improved radiance and texture without over-drying.
Can be used on dry skin with careful introduction and a richer moisturizer afterward. Consider Lotion P50V (the vitamin-enriched variant) for added nourishment, or buffer with a damp cotton pad.
Use with caution. The multi-acid blend can trigger redness or flaking initially. Lotion P50W is the recommended alternative for sensitive or reactive skin types. Always patch test and buffer application.
Highly effective for acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid clears pore congestion, niacinamide reduces inflammation, and sulfur inhibits acne bacteria. Fungal acne safe. Long-term users report dramatically fewer breakouts.
Results timeline
3–6 MONTHSInitial Adjustment & First Glow
Skin may experience mild tingling, temporary redness, or minor flaking as it adjusts to the acid complex. Some users see an initial "purge" of congestion. By the end of week one, many notice a brighter, smoother surface and reduced dullness.
70% noticed brighter skinTexture Refinement & Pore Reduction
The first epidermal cycle (25 days) begins to complete. Users report noticeably smoother texture, visibly reduced pore size, improved skin clarity, and less breakthrough congestion. Oiliness begins to normalize.
80% saw improved textureFull Epidermal Reconditioning (2 Cycles)
After two complete epidermal cycles — the P50 namesake period — the acid mantle is rebalanced. Skin's self-renewal capacity is optimized. Post-acne marks fade noticeably, complexion tone becomes more even, and products applied afterward absorb better.
85% reported clearer, more even skinLong-Term Transformation
Consistent long-term use delivers the transformative results P50 is famous for: dramatically reduced breakouts, minimized pores, visibly brighter complexion, and a noticeable improvement in the depth and quality of skin texture. Many users report being unable to imagine their routine without it.
90% would repurchaseRatings by platform
700+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Transformative multi-acid exfoliation in a single step
- Visibly refines pores and smooths texture within weeks
- Reduces breakouts and controls oiliness long-term
- Improves absorption of products applied afterward
- Decades of proven results with devoted cult following
- Niacinamide delivers simultaneous brightening and barrier support
- Fungal acne safe — no fatty acids or ferments
- Rebalances the skin's acid mantle systematically over time
- Trusted by professional estheticians worldwide
Criticized
- Premium price — one of the most expensive toners in its class
- Strong, distinctive vinegar-herbal scent not loved by all
- Initial purging phase can be alarming for new users
- Not suitable during pregnancy due to salicylic acid
- Not widely available — requires authorized retailer
- Contains multiple natural fragrance allergens (oakmoss, coumarin etc.)
- Not ideal for extremely sensitive skin without adaptation period
- Camphor and essential oils may irritate reactive skin types
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Often cited as the most similar alternative to P50. Contains the same combination of salicylic acid, lactic acid, gluconolactone, and phytic acid. Inspired by the P50 philosophy. Gentler, fragrance-light, and much easier to source. Lacks the botanical purifying complex and sulfur of the original.
A very affordable gentle exfoliating toner using gluconolactone (PHA), citric acid, and niacinamide — mirroring P50's key functional trio. Significantly lower overall acid concentration makes it ideal for sensitive skin beginners. Fragrance-free. Lacks the BHA/botanical complexity.
Best-in-class BHA exfoliant at 2% salicylic acid — higher BHA concentration than P50 with a proven efficacy track record. Fragrance-free and extremely well-tolerated. Lacks the multi-AHA complex and botanical extracts of P50, so works differently but excels at pore clearing and blackhead removal.
A well-formulated multi-acid essence with glycolic, lactic, mandelic, tartaric, and salicylic acids plus niacinamide — philosophically similar to P50's multi-acid approach. Higher total acid percentage (8.5%) provides strong resurfacing. Fragrance-free. Missing the botanical and sulfur elements of the original.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening. The acid formula and botanical extracts are best used within one year of first use to ensure full potency and stability.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. Avoid bathroom humidity where possible. Ideal storage temperature: 59–77°F (15–25°C). Keep bottle tightly closed between uses.
Glass bottle with a twist cap — classic Biologique Recherche pharmacy-style packaging. Available in 50ml (travel), 150ml (standard), and 250ml (professional/value) sizes. Pour directly onto cotton pad.
The 50ml (1.7 fl oz) size is TSA/airline compliant and ideal for travel. The 150ml bottle exceeds the 100ml carry-on liquid limit — pack in checked luggage or decant into a travel container.
Frequently asked questions
FAQLotion P50 is generally not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. The formula contains salicylic acid (BHA), which at high systemic doses has been associated with concerns during pregnancy, though topical use at low concentrations is considered low risk. More critically, it also contains camphor and thyme essential oil, which are typically avoided during pregnancy. Additionally, several natural fragrance components (such as coumarin and oakmoss extract) are best avoided when pregnant. Always consult your OB/GYN or dermatologist before continuing use of this product during pregnancy. If you're looking for a safer pregnancy alternative, consider a simple lactic acid toner without BHA or essential oils.
Yes — Lotion P50 is considered fungal acne safe. The formula contains no fatty acids, polysorbates, esters, or fermented ingredients that are known to feed Malassezia yeast. In fact, the formula contains actives (salicylic acid, sulfur, and thyme oil) that have documented antifungal properties. This makes P50 a particularly good choice for those who struggle with fungal acne or pityrosporum folliculitis alongside regular comedonal acne.
With retinol: Yes, but carefully. Many estheticians recommend using P50 in the morning and retinol/retinoids at night to avoid over-exfoliating. If you use prescription tretinoin, do not use P50 simultaneously without guidance from a professional — the combination can cause severe irritation. Avoid using P50 on the same evening as a retinoid until your skin has acclimated to both products. With vitamin C: Generally fine to layer, but introduce gradually. Vitamin C serums can go on after P50 in the same routine. If you experience irritation, separate them to AM (vitamin C) and PM (P50). With other AHAs/BHAs: Avoid layering P50 with other dedicated acid exfoliants (glycolic acid serums, additional BHA toners) as this significantly increases the risk of over-exfoliation and barrier damage.
Lotion P50 (the original formula) is best suited to oily, combination, normal, and resilient skin types. It delivers particularly impressive results for acne-prone and congested skin due to the BHA/sulfur/botanical complex. For dry skin, Lotion P50V (the vitamin-enriched version) is a better choice. For sensitive skin, Lotion P50W (the phenol-free, gentler version) is recommended. If you're completely new to chemical exfoliants, all versions of P50 should be introduced slowly — start on a damp cotton pad to buffer intensity.
Most users notice a difference in radiance and skin texture within the first 1–2 weeks of consistent use. The name "P50" is actually derived from the product's philosophy: "P" for Peeling and "50" for the 50 days (two 25-day epidermal cycles) required to achieve the first level of true epidermal reconditioning. Visible pore refinement, improved texture, and reduced breakouts are typically evident within 4–6 weeks. The most significant long-term transformation — clearer, more even, glowing skin — develops over 3–6 months of daily use. Results are highly dependent on consistent daily application.
Lotion P50 is used immediately after cleansing, as the first active step in your routine. This is important: it exfoliates, purifies, and rebalances the skin's pH, priming it to absorb everything that follows more effectively. After P50, apply your serums (vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, targeted treatments), then eye cream, followed by moisturizer. In the morning, always finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen. In the evening, finish with your moisturizer and any overnight treatments. Do not rinse off after application.
No — Lotion P50 is non-comedogenic with a rating of 1 out of 5. The formula is entirely water-based with no occlusive oils or waxes that could block pores. In fact, the opposite is true: the salicylic acid and botanical extracts actively work to unclog existing pores and prevent new congestion from forming. The primary humectants — glycerin (rating 0) and propylene glycol (rating 0) — are both non-comedogenic. P50 is an appropriate choice for acne-prone skin concerned about pore-clogging ingredients.
Lotion P50 has a Period After Opening (PAO) of 12 months. Once opened, store in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight and humidity. The 150ml bottle used once or twice daily will typically last approximately 4–6 months for a single user. If you notice any change in color, smell, or texture outside the product's naturally distinctive character, discontinue use. The 50ml travel size is ideal if you want to test the product before committing to the larger size.
Verdict: Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 earns its legendary status as one of the most effective — and most unique — exfoliating toners in prestige skincare. Its combination of five acids (AHA, BHA, and PHA), meaningful niacinamide, sulfur, and a proprietary botanical purifying complex delivers a multi-pathway approach to skin renewal that no single-acid toner can replicate. The results speak for themselves: refined pores, dramatically improved texture, reduced breakouts, and a lasting luminosity that builds over weeks and months. The premium price and strong scent are real considerations, but for those who commit to the product and its method, Lotion P50 consistently delivers transformative, esthetician-grade results at home. It is not suitable for pregnancy, extremely sensitive skin, or fragrance-reactive users without careful evaluation, but for everyone else — this is one of the rare products that truly lives up to the hype.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 6 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 7 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 5 ingredient(s):
Ache-fighting from 3 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Gluconolactone
Solvent, Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioning
|
Anti-Aging
|
|
| 0 |
Lactic Acid
|
Brightening
Anti-Aging
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 3 |
Propylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin-Conditioningagent - Miscellaneous
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 2 |
Citric Acid
Masking, Fragrance, Chelating Agent, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent
|
Brightening
Anti-Aging
Promotes Wound Healing
Texture
Pores
|