Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum
Polyglutamic Acid Hydrating Serum
Product Description
Product overview
A lightweight, silky hydrating serum featuring 3% Polyglutamic Acid Complex that holds 4x more moisture than Hyaluronic Acid. Creates a breathable film on the skin's surface to lock in hydration, smooth fine lines, and provide the perfect makeup base.
4x Hydration Power
Polyglutamic acid holds four times more moisture than hyaluronic acid, creating intense surface hydration.
Texture & feel
SENSORY4x Hydration Power
Polyglutamic acid holds four times more moisture than hyaluronic acid, creating intense surface hydration.
Film-Forming Technology
Creates a breathable, invisible film that locks in moisture while preventing trans-epidermal water loss.
Perfect Makeup Base
Silky primer-like finish smooths skin texture and creates an ideal canvas for foundation application.
Fine Line Plumping
Instantly plumps the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles through intense surface hydration.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreens. Confirmed safe by The Inkey List.
Contains Polysorbate 80 and Sorbitan Oleate which can feed Malassezia yeast. Avoid if prone to fungal acne.
Rating 1/5. Silicone-based formula is unlikely to clog pores for most skin types.
Contains dimethicone and other silicones. May cause pilling when layered with incompatible products.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSPolyglutamic Acid 3%Proven
A high-molecular-weight amino acid polymer derived from fermented soybeans (natto). Works as a powerful humectant that forms a hydrating film on the skin's surface.
- Mechanism: Creates a moisture-retaining barrier that prevents trans-epidermal water loss
- Research: Studies show PGA can hold up to 5,000x its weight in water
- Benefit: Works on the skin's surface (unlike HA which penetrates deeper)
Invisaskin Complex 2%Proprietary
A proprietary hydration-boosting complex that supports long-lasting moisture retention and smoother skin texture.
- Function: Maintains hydration levels throughout the day
- Result: Supports the film-forming action of polyglutamic acid
Dimethicone HighProven
A lightweight silicone that creates a protective, non-greasy barrier. Responsible for the silky, primer-like texture.
- Function: Occlusive that prevents moisture loss and smooths skin
- Benefit: Creates the blurring, makeup-ready finish
- Safety: Non-comedogenic, sits on skin surface
Glycerin StandardProven
A classic humectant that attracts water to the skin. Works synergistically with polyglutamic acid for enhanced hydration.
- Research: One of the most studied and effective humectants
- Function: Draws moisture from the environment into the skin
Rice Bran Extract TracePromising
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract provides antioxidant benefits and helps soothe and brighten the skin.
- Benefits: Contains ferulic acid and other antioxidants
- Traditional use: Long history in Asian skincare for brightening
25 ingredients
Aqua (Water), Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-11, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic Acid, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Propanediol, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Decyl Glucoside, Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract.
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEUse AM & PM as your last serum step before moisturizer. For best results, layer over a hydrating toner or hyaluronic acid serum to seal in moisture.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Prep
Start with clean skin. Apply your toner and any water-based serums (like Hyaluronic Acid) first while skin is still slightly damp.
Apply PGA Serum
Dispense a pea-sized amount onto fingertips. Gently pat and press into face and neck, avoiding the eye area.
Wait & Layer
Allow 30 seconds for absorption before applying moisturizer. The silky finish indicates the product has set.
Makeup Hack (Optional)
Mix a pea-sized amount into your foundation for a dewy, long-wearing finish, or use alone as a hydrating primer.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have dehydrated skin that needs surface-level moisture
- You want a hydrating primer that works under makeup
- Fine lines and wrinkles are a concern
- You love a dewy, plump skin finish
- You're pregnant or breastfeeding
- Your skin tolerates silicones well
- You want to seal in your Hyaluronic Acid serum
Consider alternatives if:
- You have fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis)
- You're sensitive to silicones or experience pilling
- You prefer completely fragrance-free products (has slight chemical scent)
- You have very oily skin and dislike dewy finishes
- You prefer lightweight, water-based formulas only
- You need deep hydration (this works on surface only)
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESIdeal for dry skin. The film-forming action locks in moisture and prevents water loss. Layer over a hydrating serum for maximum benefit.
Lightweight and non-greasy. Works well as a makeup primer. Some oily skin types report excellent results, though finish may be too dewy for some.
Balances hydration across different zones without adding heaviness. Fast absorption prevents congestion in oilier areas.
Fragrance-free and gentle formula. However, patch test recommended as some users report sensitivity to the silicones or scent.
Low comedogenic rating (1/5), but NOT fungal acne safe. Contains polysorbates that can feed Malassezia. Avoid if you have fungal acne.
Results timeline
4-6 WEEKSInstant Smoothing & Hydration
Skin feels immediately softer and smoother with a silky, primer-like finish. Fine lines appear temporarily plumped.
95% noticed instant smoothingImproved Moisture Retention
Skin maintains hydration better throughout the day. Dehydration lines become less noticeable. Makeup wears better and longer.
80% reported better moisture retentionVisible Texture Improvement
With consistent use, overall skin texture appears smoother and more refined. Fine lines show sustained improvement.
70% saw texture improvementRatings by platform
2K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Excellent makeup primer - creates smooth, dewy base
- Lightweight yet effective hydration
- Can be mixed into foundation for extra glow
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding safe
- Affordable price point for the technology
- Vegan and cruelty-free certified
- Fast-absorbing, non-sticky formula
- Works well layered over Hyaluronic Acid
Criticized
- Strong chemical-like scent (despite being fragrance-free)
- Can pill when layered with certain products
- Small 30ml bottle for $15
- Not fungal acne safe
- Some find finish too dewy/tacky
- Works on surface only, not deep hydration
- May not suit those sensitive to silicones
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPESDifferent humectant (HA vs PGA) but similar hydration goals. Works deeper in skin while PGA works on surface. More watery texture, less primer-like finish. Fungal acne safe with 2024 reformulation.
Contains polyglutamic acid with peptides for anti-aging. Similar silky texture and smoothing effects. More targeted at wrinkle reduction than pure hydration.
Multi-weight HA formula for comprehensive hydration. More lightweight, water-based texture without the silicone finish. Better for layering without pilling concerns.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDEStorage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place (15-25°C/59-77°F). Keep out of direct sunlight.
Squeeze tube with flip-top cap - hygienic dispensing, minimal air exposure
Yes - 30ml is under 100ml liquid limit for carry-on luggage
Frequently asked questions
FAQYes! The Inkey List confirms this product is safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It contains no retinoids, salicylic acid, hydroquinone, or chemical sunscreen filters. All ingredients are pregnancy-compatible, making it an excellent hydrating option for expecting or nursing mothers.
No, this product is NOT fungal acne safe. It contains Polysorbate 80 and Sorbitan Oleate, which are known to feed Malassezia yeast. If you're prone to fungal acne or pityrosporum folliculitis, consider alternatives like The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 (2024 formula) which is fungal acne safe.
Yes! Polyglutamic Acid is compatible with most actives including retinol, vitamin C, niacinamide, and AHA/BHA acids. In fact, it works great as a final hydrating step to seal in these actives and buffer potential irritation. Apply water-based actives first, then layer PGA on top before moisturizer.
This serum works best for dry, dehydrated, combination, and normal skin types. It's particularly excellent for those who want a hydrating makeup primer. Oily skin types may find it works well too, though some prefer less dewy finishes. Not recommended for fungal acne-prone skin due to certain ingredients.
You'll notice instant smoothing and a silky finish immediately after application. Improved moisture retention typically becomes noticeable within 1-2 weeks of consistent use. For visible texture improvement and fine line reduction, allow 4-6 weeks of daily AM and PM use.
Apply as your last serum step, after cleansing, toning, and any water-based serums (like Hyaluronic Acid). Follow with moisturizer and SPF in the morning. The silicone-rich formula works best when applied over water-based products to seal in hydration. Can also be used as a primer directly before makeup.
This product has a low comedogenic rating of 1/5 and is unlikely to clog pores for most people. The silicone-based formula sits on the skin's surface rather than penetrating pores. However, it's not suitable for fungal acne due to polysorbate content. Always patch test if you're acne-prone.
The product has a PAO (Period After Opening) of 12 months. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain efficacy. The squeeze tube packaging helps minimize air exposure and contamination, extending the product's shelf life compared to jar packaging.
Verdict: The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum delivers on its promise of intense surface hydration and makes an excellent makeup primer at an accessible price point. The 3% PGA complex genuinely holds moisture better than many hyaluronic acid serums, creating that coveted "glass skin" effect. However, it's not without flaws - the chemical-like scent bothers some users, pilling can occur with certain product combinations, and it's unfortunately not safe for those with fungal acne. Best suited for dry, dehydrated, or combination skin types who want a multi-tasking hydrator that doubles as a primer. For maximum results, layer it over a hyaluronic acid serum to get both deep and surface hydration. A solid choice for the price, especially for The Inkey List fans already familiar with the brand's no-frills approach to effective skincare.
Product Overview
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 3 |
Dimethicone
Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antifoaming Agent, Skin Protecting
|
|
|
| 1 |
Butylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscositydecreasing Agent
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 0 |
Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|







