Vitamin C Lactic 15% Firm & Bright Serum
Vitamin C Lactic 15% Firm & Bright Serum
Product Description
Product overview
A dermatologist-formulated, antioxidant-rich serum from Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare that harnesses the power of 15% pure L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) paired with lactic acid to dramatically brighten skin, fade dark spots, reduce fine lines, and restore visible firmness. The lactic acid acts as a penetration enhancer, allowing Vitamin C to absorb deeper for maximum efficacy — all in a fast-absorbing, oil-like fluid with a luminous finish.
Fights Sun Aging at 15% Strength
Pure L-ascorbic acid at a clinically meaningful 15% concentration neutralizes UV-induced free radicals, visibly reducing sun damage, dark spots, and uneven skin tone over time.
Texture & feel
SENSORYFights Sun Aging at 15% Strength
Pure L-ascorbic acid at a clinically meaningful 15% concentration neutralizes UV-induced free radicals, visibly reducing sun damage, dark spots, and uneven skin tone over time.
Lactic Acid Penetration Boost
Lactic acid gently exfoliates the skin surface and lowers pH to enhance Vitamin C absorption — a smart formulation strategy that maximizes efficacy without requiring a higher acid concentration.
Collagen Support & Firming
Vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis pathways. Clinically proven to improve fine lines in 93% of subjects and skin firmness in 68% after 12 weeks of daily use.
Dual Brightening Botanicals
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract and Morus Alba (Mulberry) Fruit Extract work synergistically to reduce the look of hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone naturally.
Classic C+E+F Antioxidant Trio
Ascorbic Acid (C) + Tocopherol (Vitamin E) + Ferulic Acid form the gold-standard antioxidant triad, with ferulic acid stabilizing both C and E while boosting their photoprotective effects.
Hydration & Barrier Support
Sodium Hyaluronate draws moisture into the skin, while Glycerin and Lactic Acid support the skin's natural moisture barrier — keeping skin plump and resilient alongside the active treatment.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEVitamin C (ascorbic acid), ferulic acid, and hyaluronic acid are generally considered safe. However, the combination of AHAs (lactic acid, glycolic acid) at these concentrations warrants caution. Consult your OB-GYN or dermatologist before use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. No retinoids or hydroquinone present.
This formula contains no fatty acids, fermented ingredients, esters, or polysorbates that are known to feed Malassezia yeast. All 16 ingredients are considered fungal acne safe, making it suitable for those managing fungal breakouts alongside hyperpigmentation.
None of the ingredients in this formula carry a significant comedogenic rating. Ricinoleth-40 (hydrogenated castor oil derivative) has a rating of 1. Overall, this serum is very unlikely to clog pores and is suitable for acne-prone skin.
The low pH (~3.5) combined with 15% ascorbic acid, lactic acid, and glycolic acid creates a potent acidic formula. Those with rosacea, compromised barrier, or reactive skin should introduce slowly and patch test first. A mild tingle on first use is normal.
Do not layer directly with retinol in the same step — use Vitamin C in the AM and retinol in the PM for best results and to avoid irritation. This serum is designed for morning use, followed by SPF.
AHAs (lactic and glycolic acid) can increase photosensitivity. Always follow with a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ in the morning. This is essential to protect skin and to maximize the dark-spot fading benefits of the serum.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSAscorbic Acid (L-Ascorbic Acid / Vitamin C) 15%Proven
The gold-standard, most bioavailable form of topical Vitamin C. At 15%, this is a clinically effective concentration for collagen stimulation, antioxidant protection, and pigmentation correction. Pure L-ascorbic acid outperforms stable derivatives in direct skin penetration and efficacy, though it requires careful formulation (low pH, stabilizing partners) to remain active.
- Clinical Study: 93% of subjects showed improvement in fine lines after 4 weeks; 68% saw visible skin firmness improvement after 12 weeks (Dr. Dennis Gross internal study, 22 participants).
- Mechanism: Stimulates collagen type I synthesis, inhibits melanogenesis via tyrosinase suppression, and neutralizes UV-generated reactive oxygen species.
- Stability: L-ascorbic acid oxidizes rapidly on air exposure. The opaque, non-transparent bottle design helps protect the ingredient. Use within 6 months of opening.
Lactic Acid ~1.3–1.9%Proven
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from milk (or produced synthetically for vegan formulas). At low concentrations like this, lactic acid functions primarily as a pH adjuster, penetration enhancer, and humectant rather than a strong exfoliant. It lowers the skin surface pH to the optimal range for Vitamin C absorption (~3.0–3.5), making this a smart co-formulation strategy.
- Penetration Enhancement: By gently loosening corneocyte cohesion and adjusting pH, lactic acid allows L-ascorbic acid to penetrate the stratum corneum more efficiently.
- Humectancy: Lactic acid is a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) component, attracting water to the upper skin layers.
- Microbiome Friendly: Recent research shows lactic acid supports healthy skin microbiome composition.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (Licorice Root) traceProven
Licorice root contains glabridin and liquiritin, two compounds with demonstrated tyrosinase-inhibiting activity that visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. It pairs synergistically with Vitamin C to address dark spots from multiple mechanisms simultaneously — making this a true brightening stack rather than a single-active approach.
- Mechanism: Glabridin inhibits UVB-induced pigmentation; liquiritin disperses melanin via its depigmentation effect.
- Anti-inflammatory: Also provides mild soothing properties, helping offset potential irritation from AHAs.
Morus Alba Fruit Extract (Mulberry) tracePromising
White mulberry extract is a natural source of oxyresveratrol, a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that outperforms kojic acid in some in vitro studies. It is used here as a second natural brightening agent alongside licorice, reinforcing the serum's hyperpigmentation-targeting approach without adding synthetic compounds.
- Tyrosinase Inhibition: Oxyresveratrol from mulberry is highly effective at inhibiting the enzyme responsible for melanin production.
- Antioxidant: Also contains resveratrol-related polyphenols that add to the antioxidant profile of the formula.
Ferulic Acid traceProven
Ferulic acid is the critical stabilizing and synergistic partner to Vitamin C and Vitamin E. It extends the shelf-life of L-ascorbic acid in formulation and has been shown to double the photoprotective effect of combined vitamins C and E. This C+E+F trio is the most well-validated antioxidant architecture in dermatology.
- Synergy: Ferulic acid at 0.5% doubles the sun protection factor of Vitamin C + Vitamin E combination (Pinnell et al., 2005).
- Stabilization: Reduces oxidative degradation of ascorbic acid, extending the functional life of the active after application.
Sodium Hyaluronate traceProven
The sodium salt form of hyaluronic acid (HA), with smaller molecular weight that allows better skin penetration than high-molecular HA. It attracts and holds up to 1,000x its weight in water, providing immediate surface hydration while supporting the skin barrier during the intensive acid and Vitamin C treatment.
- Humectancy: Draws moisture from the dermis and environment to maintain plumpness and hydration in the treated area.
- Barrier Support: Supports the integrity of the skin's natural moisture barrier, mitigating dryness from AHA exfoliation.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) traceProven
Pure Vitamin E in its most bioavailable form. Works in concert with Vitamin C to neutralize free radicals — C regenerates oxidized E, creating a self-reinforcing antioxidant cycle. Also provides emollient, barrier-strengthening benefits that improve the texture of the finished serum.
- Antioxidant Synergy: Vitamin E and C work together; each regenerates the other after electron donation, prolonging total antioxidant activity.
- Photoprotection: Reduces UV-induced lipid peroxidation in the stratum corneum.
Adenosine traceProven
A naturally occurring nucleoside with FDA-recognized anti-wrinkle activity. Adenosine has been shown to stimulate collagen and elastin production, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve skin firmness. It is a well-tolerated ingredient suitable for all skin types including sensitive.
- Wrinkle Reduction: Clinically documented to reduce fine lines and improve skin elasticity with regular use.
- Collagen Stimulation: Promotes fibroblast activity to support collagen synthesis independently of Vitamin C.
Glycolic Acid ~0.1–0.5%Proven
The smallest-molecule AHA, glycolic acid at very low concentrations here is not functioning as a primary exfoliant. Instead, it contributes to the overall pH management of the formula and provides mild surface cell turnover support. Its presence reinforces the skin-renewing environment created by lactic acid.
- Cell Turnover: Even at low concentrations, glycolic acid supports desquamation and helps maintain a smooth skin surface.
- pH Optimization: Works alongside lactic acid and aminomethyl propanol to fine-tune the formula's pH for Vitamin C stability.
16 ingredients
Water/Aqua/Eau, Dipropylene Glycol, Ascorbic Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ricinoleth-40, Aminomethyl Propanol, Lactic Acid, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Ferulic Acid, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycolic Acid, Adenosine, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEBest used in the AM on clean, dry skin before moisturizer. Always follow with broad-spectrum SPF in the morning. For optimal results, apply after Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel Pads. Use PM only once well-acclimated.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Dry
Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat skin completely dry. Vitamin C absorbs best on dry, product-free skin — any residual water or alkaline toner can dilute efficacy.
Dispense 4–6 Drops
Dispense 4–6 drops of the serum onto your fingertips. For first-time users, start with 3–4 drops to assess skin tolerance. The dropper allows precise, waste-free dispensing.
Apply to Face & Neck
Press and smooth the serum evenly across the face, neck, and décolleté using upward motions. Concentrate on areas with sun damage, dark spots, or fine lines. A slight tingling sensation is normal during the first few weeks of use.
Allow to Absorb
Wait 30–60 seconds for the serum to fully absorb before applying other products. The lightweight oil-fluid texture absorbs quickly without a greasy residue.
Layer Moisturizer & SPF
Follow with your regular moisturizer, then finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen every morning. Sunscreen is non-negotiable when using AHA and Vitamin C formulas — it protects your investment and prevents further pigmentation.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have sun damage, dark spots, or post-acne marks
- You want to visibly firm and smooth fine lines
- You have normal, combination, or oily skin with good barrier health
- You're looking for a clinical-strength Vitamin C alternative to SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic
- You want fragrance-free, vegan skincare
- You already use AHAs or acids and your skin is well-acclimated
- You're focused on anti-aging AND brightening in one step
Consider alternatives if:
- You have very sensitive, reactive, or rosacea-prone skin
- Your skin barrier is compromised or actively irritated
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding (consult physician first)
- You're a complete skincare beginner with no acid experience
- You prefer a budget Vitamin C option (this is $87/oz)
- You are unable to commit to daily SPF use
- You forget products regularly (Vit C oxidizes quickly post-opening)
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESIdeal candidate — the lightweight, fast-absorbing formula layers perfectly with all routine steps without disrupting skin balance.
Oil-fluid texture absorbs instantly without adding shine. The low comedogenic rating (1/5) and AHAs help keep pores clear and skin tone even.
Sodium hyaluronate and glycerin provide hydration, but very dry skin types may need a rich moisturizer on top. Pair with Dr. Gross Vitamin C Oil-Free Moisturizer or a barrier cream.
The multi-acid formula at low pH may irritate reactive or compromised skin. Patch test before full application and introduce gradually — start 3x/week before daily use.
Non-comedogenic (rating 1/5), fungal acne safe, and the AHA blend helps address post-acne hyperpigmentation. A strong choice for blemish-prone skin focused on brightening.
Primary target demographic. Clinical results show improvement in fine lines (93%) and firmness (68%) at 12 weeks. The C+E+F trio addresses sun-aged skin comprehensively.
Results timeline
WEEK 10–12Immediate Radiance & Glow
Most users notice an immediate luminous, brightening effect within the first few applications as Vitamin C begins neutralizing oxidative dullness. Mild tingling sensation is normal and subsides as skin acclimates.
85% noticed brighter complexionVisible Fine Line Improvement
Clinical study data reports 93% of subjects saw improvement in fine lines on the cheek after 4 weeks of consistent daily use. Early softening of surface texture and smoothing of fine lines becomes apparent.
93% showed fine line improvementHyperpigmentation & Dark Spot Fading
The synergistic action of Vitamin C, licorice root, and mulberry extract begins to visibly fade sun spots and post-acne marks. Skin tone becomes more even and consistent. 85% of subjects reported visible improvement in sun aging at the 4-week mark.
85% saw visible sun aging improvementFirmness, Density & Elasticity
With consistent daily application, collagen synthesis improvements become visible. Skin feels denser, more elastic, and visibly firmer. 68% of participants saw visible improvement in skin firmness at the 12-week clinical endpoint.
68% saw visible firmness improvementRatings by platform
850+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Clinical-strength 15% pure L-ascorbic acid — most bioavailable Vitamin C form
- Lactic acid penetration enhancement — smarter formulation than single-acid serums
- Gold-standard C+E+F antioxidant trio for maximum stability and efficacy
- Dual botanical brighteners (licorice + mulberry) target hyperpigmentation from multiple angles
- Clinically tested — 93% fine line improvement, 68% firmness improvement at 12 weeks
- Fragrance-free, vegan, cruelty-free, and free from 7+ harsh additives
- Fungal acne safe — suitable for malassezia-prone skin
- Fast-absorbing, luminous finish that layers well under makeup
- Opaque packaging protects Vitamin C from light degradation
- Adenosine adds independent anti-wrinkle benefit beyond Vitamin C
Criticized
- Expensive at $87 for only 1 fl oz / 30 ml
- Short 6-month PAO — Vitamin C oxidizes quickly after opening
- May leave orange tint on skin/hairline if product oxidizes or is not fully absorbed
- Low pH + multiple AHAs may irritate sensitive, rosacea-prone, or barrier-compromised skin
- No large size option — limited per-use value at this price point
- Slight acidic/burnt scent noted by some reviewers
- Not suitable for beginners unfamiliar with acids or Vitamin C serums
- Requires strict SPF discipline due to AHA photosensitization
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Contains Vitamin C, Vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide. Lower concentration of ascorbic acid (~20% total but mixed forms), lacks the precise C+E+F trio architecture and lactic acid penetration system. Excellent entry-level option. Available on Amazon.
Lower 8% concentration of pure L-ascorbic acid paired with Alpha Arbutin for brightening. Missing ferulic acid stabilizer, no lactic acid penetration enhancer, and lower potency. Strong value for beginners or those on a strict budget, but less clinically potent.
Also uses 15% L-ascorbic acid with Vitamin E, ferulic acid, and peptides. Very similar C+E+F architecture at a lower price point. Lacks lactic acid penetration enhancement and botanical brighteners, but is a strong formulation with added peptide anti-aging benefits.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic
Ole Henriksen Banana Bright+ Vitamin C Serum
Storage & shelf life
6 MONTHS6 months after opening. L-ascorbic acid is unstable and degrades rapidly on air exposure. Discard if the serum turns dark orange or brown — oxidized Vitamin C is ineffective and potentially irritating.
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. Consider refrigerating to extend Vitamin C stability. Avoid leaving near windows or in humid bathrooms. The opaque bottle helps, but heat is the primary enemy.
Comes in an opaque, dark dropper bottle — specifically designed to block light and slow oxidation of the Vitamin C. Dropper closure allows precise dispensing and minimizes air exposure per use.
Yes — at 30 ml / 1 fl oz, it is under the TSA 100 ml liquid limit and is carry-on approved. Dropper bottle closure is secure for travel. Consider a travel-size if available for shorter trips.
Frequently asked questions
FAQThis serum does not contain retinoids, hydroquinone, or salicylic acid — the ingredients most commonly flagged during pregnancy. The core ingredients (Vitamin C, Vitamin E, hyaluronic acid, ferulic acid) are generally considered safe. However, the presence of alpha-hydroxy acids (lactic acid and glycolic acid) means this formula warrants a conversation with your OB-GYN or dermatologist before use during pregnancy or while breastfeeding. Most physicians will recommend caution with AHA-containing products at higher concentrations during these periods. When in doubt, consult your healthcare provider before continuing use.
Yes — this serum is considered fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis) safe. The complete ingredient list of 16 ingredients has been reviewed and does not contain fatty acids (like lauric, myristic, oleic, or linoleic acid), fermented ingredients, polysorbates, esters, or other substances known to feed Malassezia yeast. This makes it an excellent choice for those managing fungal breakouts alongside hyperpigmentation or anti-aging concerns. As always, if you have active fungal acne, patch test before full-face application and consult a dermatologist for a comprehensive treatment plan.
Do not layer this serum directly with retinol in the same step or same application time — use Vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night (PM routine) for best results and to minimize irritation. Using both in the same AM routine is generally discouraged as the combination can be overly sensitizing. Regarding AHAs and BHAs: because this serum already contains lactic and glycolic acid, avoid stacking additional AHA/BHA treatments in the same routine session. You can use them on alternating days or at different time steps (AM vs PM). Niacinamide: contrary to older claims, niacinamide and Vitamin C can be used in the same routine — the "niacin flush" concern was based on outdated chemistry. However, due to different pH requirements, applying them in separate steps (e.g., niacinamide in PM, Vitamin C in AM) is the most effective approach for individual efficacy.
This serum is best suited for normal, combination, and oily skin types — particularly those with sun damage, dark spots, post-acne hyperpigmentation, or early signs of aging (fine lines, loss of firmness). The brand also recommends it for dry skin, with the caveat that a nourishing moisturizer should always follow. Sensitive skin types and those with rosacea, active eczema, or compromised skin barriers should approach with caution due to the multi-acid formula at a low pH (~3.5). Acne-prone skin responds very well to this serum given its non-comedogenic profile (rating 1/5) and fungal acne safety.
Most users notice a brightening and radiance effect within the first 1–2 weeks of consistent daily use. Clinical results show 93% improvement in fine lines at 4 weeks and 85% improvement in visible sun aging signs at 4 weeks. The most significant firmness improvements (68% of subjects) were documented at the 12-week clinical endpoint. For dark spots and hyperpigmentation specifically, expect 6–8 weeks of consistent use before noticeable fading becomes apparent. Results depend on daily use, proper SPF application, and starting the serum before advanced skin damage occurs.
Apply after cleansing and toning, as the first serum step in your morning routine — before eye cream, moisturizer, and sunscreen. The sequence is: Cleanser → Toner (optional) → This Vitamin C Serum → Eye Cream → Moisturizer → SPF 30+. Always follow with broad-spectrum SPF in the AM — this is mandatory when using AHAs (lactic and glycolic acid) as they increase photosensitivity. For optimal results, Dr. Dennis Gross recommends applying this serum after their Alpha Beta Peel Pads for enhanced penetration. Do not mix or layer directly with retinol; reserve retinol for your PM routine.
No — this serum has a very low comedogenic rating of 1 out of 5. None of the 16 ingredients carry a significant pore-clogging risk. Ricinoleth-40 (a hydrogenated castor oil derivative used as a solubilizer) has a comedogenic rating of 1, making it the only marginally noteworthy ingredient in that regard. The formula is fungal acne safe, lightweight (oil-fluid texture), and absorbs quickly without leaving residue. It is suitable for acne-prone skin and very unlikely to cause or worsen breakouts. The AHAs in the formula (lactic and glycolic acid) actually help keep pores clear by gently exfoliating the skin surface.
This serum has a Period After Opening (PAO) of 6 months. L-ascorbic acid is inherently unstable and begins to oxidize and degrade when exposed to air, light, and heat. At 6 months post-opening, the Vitamin C potency will have declined significantly. Signs of oxidation include the serum turning yellow, orange, or brown — at this stage it should be discarded and replaced. To maximize longevity: store in a cool, dark location (consider the refrigerator), close the dropper cap securely after each use, avoid leaving the bottle in direct sunlight or a warm bathroom, and use it consistently to finish within the 6-month window. With daily use of 4–6 drops, a 30 ml bottle provides approximately 50–75 applications — well within a 6-month daily usage window.
Verdict: The Dr. Dennis Gross Vitamin C Lactic 15% Firm & Bright Serum is one of the most thoughtfully formulated Vitamin C serums in its price tier. The addition of lactic acid as a penetration enhancer — a genuine formulation upgrade over basic C+E+F serums — combined with dual botanical brighteners (licorice root + mulberry) and adenosine for anti-wrinkle support makes it a multi-mechanism brightening and anti-aging powerhouse. Clinically validated results (93% fine line improvement at 4 weeks, 68% firmness at 12 weeks) back up the formula's ambition. The primary drawbacks are the steep $87 price for only 30 ml, the short 6-month PAO that limits value for infrequent users, and the multi-acid formula's unsuitability for reactive or sensitive skin. For the right user — tolerant skin with sun damage, dark spots, or early aging concerns, committed to daily use and morning SPF — this is a legitimate clinical-strength alternative to SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic at more than half the price.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.