Salicylic Acid

TLDR version

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that has anti-inflammatory properties. Furthermore, it is an excellent exfoliator and treatment for acne. Overview

Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) [should we have a separate guide to acids that we can link to? Both a general one and an AHA vs BHA one?] that is commonly used as a chemical exfoliator and treatment for acne. It’s a popular ingredient in a variety of different cosmetic products thanks to its multitude of benefits.

Salicylic acid is comedolytic, which means it’s oil soluble (perfect for penetrating oily, acne-prone skin) and helps prevent breakouts. It works by breaking down the structures that hold dead skin cells together; as the skin sheds, blocked pores are opened and neutralises the bacteria , preventing further breakouts.

Best for/Benefits

Prevents blemishes

Salicylic acid makes an excellent treatment for blemishes due to its ability to penetrate oily environments, its exfoliation capabilities and its anti-inflammatory properties. Its chemical structure is very similar to that of aspirin, hence its anti-inflammatory nature and subsequent ability to calm inflamed pustules and pimples. It also makes a great chemical exfoliant when at the right Ph (3-4) which, when combined with its lipophilic (oil-soluble) properties, makes salicylic acid excellent at getting into pores to clear out dead skin cells which could develop into blackheads and blemishes if left untreated.

Treats blackheads

We’ve already mentioned it’s prowess as a chemical exfoliant - this is what makes salicylic acid so great at treating blackheads. Salicylic acid is able to penetrate the oil on the skin and enter the pores, clearing out the build-up of dead skin-cells, oils and other debris that causes blackheads.

Can help treat acne

While salicylic acid is excellent at preventing blackheads, it’s not quite as effective at treating acne. However, that’s not to say that it doesn’t have a role to play in acne treatment. Thanks to its close relation to aspirin, salicylic acid has some pretty nifty anti-inflammatory properties that can go a long way in calming angry outbreaks of acne. Applying a product with salicylic acid to skin that’s suffering from acne can help reduce redness and inflammation. Its exfoliation properties also make salicylic acid great for acne-prevention.

Chemical exfoliation - exfoliates both surface and pores (Ph 3 - 4 needed)

You may have heard about the two different types of chemical exfoliants: AHA’s and BHA’s. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are popular (and with good reason) as they’re great at sloughing off dead skin cells to reveal brighter skin and in preventing blackheads.

However, they do have one weakness when compared with beta hydroxy acids (BHA’s): they’re water soluble. This means AHA’s can’t go into pores to unclog them, they can only work on the surface. BHA’s, however, are lipid soluble, which means they can get into pores to essentially unglue those bonds that are holding dead skin cells together.

Salicylic acid is a BHA, so it’s great for unclogging pores and preventing/treating blackheads (and subsequent acne formation). Salicylic acid is most effective as a chemical exfoliant when used at a Ph of 3-4.

Chemical peel in higher concentrations

In higher concentrations (10-30%), salicylic acid can be used as a chemical peel. Studies have shown that, in a sufficient concentration, salicylic acid can improve the appearance of aging skin by reducing wrinkles/fine lines and reducing hyperpigmentation.

Treatment of skin conditions, including warts, calluses, psoriasis and dandruff

Salicylic acid’s exfoliating abilities make it an effective treatment against more skin conditions than just acne. Its ability to soften and dislodge dead or hard skin cells makes it excellent for treating warts and calluses as well as psoriasis and dandruff.

How to use it & What to use it for

Where salicylic acid fits into your routine depends on what kind of product you’re using, as salicylic acid can come in many forms, from chemical peels to moisturisers:

• As a cleanser it should be applied to either clean skin in the morning or evening, or to skin that has already had all makeup removed from it.
• As an exfoliator or peel it should be applied to clean skin. Applying just after cleansing would be the optimum time. You should also remember to either apply a decent SPF (50 or PA+++) afterwards if you’re going outdoors, or to apply it at night. This is because chemical exfoliators can make your skin much more susceptible to sun damage, especially just after application.
• If your moisturiser contains salicylic acid, this can be applied after cleansing in the morning or evening.
• Spot treatments can be applied after cleansing and either before or after moisturiser.

It can be found in:

• Oil-free/oil control moisturisers
• Exfoliation pads/serumsM
• Spot treatments
• Toners
• Cleansers
• Anti-dandruff treatments
• Wart treatments

References

Popular products with X ingredient

• CosRX Salicylic Acid Exfoliating Cleanser
• The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution Stridex
• Daily Care Acne Pads with Salicylic Acid, Essential with Vitamin
• SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense Salicylic Acid Acne Treatment
• Paula's Choice CLEAR Extra Strength Anti-Redness Exfoliating Solution with 2% Salicylic Acid