Biolumin C Serum
Biolumin C Serum
Product Description
Product overview
A high-performance vitamin C serum featuring an ultra-stable dual vitamin C complex, lactic acid (AHA), and peptides that work synergistically to brighten, firm, and dramatically reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while defending against free radical damage.
Ultra-Stable Vitamin C Complex
Dual vitamin C derivatives (Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate + Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate) that resist oxidation and deliver 3x more vitamin C into the skin.
Texture & feel
SENSORYUltra-Stable Vitamin C Complex
Dual vitamin C derivatives (Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate + Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate) that resist oxidation and deliver 3x more vitamin C into the skin.
Peptide Technology
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 stimulates collagen production to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
AHA Exfoliation
Lactic acid accelerates cell turnover to reveal brighter, smoother skin and reduce uneven pigmentation.
Botanical Protection
Chia seed oil and Sophora Japonica flower extract provide antioxidant protection and help calm skin after oxidative stress.
Safety & compatibility
SAFEContains essential oils (grapefruit peel oil, limonene) and dipotassium glycyrrhizate (licorice root) which are not recommended during pregnancy. Consult your healthcare provider.
Not FA-safe. Contains Polysorbate 20 and plant oils (sunflower seed oil, chia seed oil) with fatty acids that can feed malassezia yeast.
Rated 1/5. The oils used (chia seed, sunflower) have low comedogenic ratings and are unlikely to clog pores for most skin types.
Contains lactic acid (AHA) which may cause mild tingling. Patch test recommended. Start with once daily use and increase gradually.
Ingredient breakdown
INGREDIENTSVitamin C Complex 4.7%Proven
A dual combination of Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate - two stable vitamin C derivatives that resist oxidation. Dermalogica claims this formulation delivers 3x more vitamin C into the skin compared to traditional L-ascorbic acid formulations.
- Brightening: Inhibits melanin production to reduce dark spots and hyperpigmentation
- Collagen Boost: Essential cofactor for collagen synthesis to improve skin firmness
- Antioxidant: Neutralizes free radicals from UV exposure and pollution
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5Proven
A synthetic peptide that mimics the body's natural mechanism to stimulate collagen production. Works by signaling cells to produce more collagen for firmer, more resilient skin.
- Clinical Data: Studies show significant improvement in wrinkle depth after 8 weeks
- Mechanism: Activates TGF-beta, a growth factor involved in collagen synthesis
Lactic Acid (AHA)Proven
A gentle alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin's surface, promoting cell turnover and revealing brighter, smoother skin. Also acts as a humectant to draw moisture into the skin.
- Exfoliation: Dissolves dead skin cells to improve texture and radiance
- Brightening: Helps fade hyperpigmentation and sun damage
- Hydration: Humectant properties help attract and retain moisture
Chia Seed OilPromising
Rich in omega-3 fatty acids (over 60%) and antioxidants, chia seed oil helps strengthen the skin barrier, provide hydration, and protect against environmental damage.
- Omega-3: Supports skin barrier function and reduces inflammation
- Antioxidant: Helps neutralize free radicals from pollution
Sodium HyaluronateProven
A smaller molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid that penetrates the skin to provide deep hydration. Can hold up to 1000x its weight in water.
- Hydration: Attracts and binds water molecules to plump the skin
- Fine Lines: Temporary plumping effect reduces appearance of fine lines
32 ingredients
Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Lactic Acid, Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Extract, Sodium PCA, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sophora Japonica Flower Extract, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Polyacrylate-13, Propanediol, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Polyisobutene, Methylpropanediol, Carrageenan, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20, Limonene, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol
Where it fits in your routine
ROUTINEApply after cleansing and toning, before moisturizer. Can be used morning and night. Always follow with SPF in the morning due to AHA content.
How to use
HOW TO USECleanse & Tone
Start with freshly cleansed and toned skin. Pat dry gently before applying the serum.
Dispense
Use a full dropper (approximately 3-5 drops) for the entire face and neck.
Apply
Smooth the serum over your face and neck using gentle upward strokes. Allow it to absorb for 30-60 seconds.
Follow Up
Layer your moisturizer on top. In the morning, always finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher.
Who is it for?
WHOPerfect for you if:
- You have concerns about dull, uneven skin tone
- You want to address early signs of aging (fine lines, loss of firmness)
- You have hyperpigmentation or dark spots
- You prefer a stable vitamin C that won't oxidize quickly
- You want multi-tasking benefits (brightening + anti-aging + exfoliation)
- You have normal, combination, or oily skin
Consider alternatives if:
- You are pregnant or breastfeeding (contains essential oils)
- You have fungal acne or malassezia concerns
- You need a higher concentration of pure L-ascorbic acid
- You have very dry skin (may need additional hydration)
- You are on a strict budget (there are more affordable options)
- You are extremely sensitive to AHAs
Skin type compatibility
SKIN TYPESLightweight gel formula absorbs quickly without adding shine. Lactic acid helps control excess oil and refine pores.
Contains hyaluronic acid and chia seed oil for hydration, but may need a richer moisturizer on top for very dry skin.
Perfectly balances hydration and oil control. Works well across different face zones without overloading T-zone.
Contains AHA and essential oils which may irritate very sensitive skin. Patch test first and introduce slowly.
Low comedogenic rating (1/5). Lactic acid helps with post-acne marks. However, not suitable for fungal acne.
Ideal for aging concerns. Peptides boost collagen, vitamin C brightens, and AHA improves texture and fine lines.
Results timeline
WEEK 8+Immediate Glow & Hydration
Skin feels softer and more hydrated. You may notice an immediate luminosity and subtle glow after each application.
Most users notice within daysSmoother Texture
Lactic acid exfoliation begins to smooth rough patches and improve overall skin texture. Skin feels more refined.
97% found skin smoother (8-week study)Visible Brightening
Dark spots begin to fade, skin tone appears more even, and overall complexion looks brighter and more radiant.
76% found skin looked brighterFirmer, Rejuvenated Skin
Fine lines appear reduced, skin feels firmer and more resilient. Continued use maintains and enhances results.
82% found skin visibly rejuvenatedRatings by platform
2K+ REVIEWSPros & cons
BALANCEDPraised
- Ultra-stable formula doesn't oxidize quickly
- Lightweight, fast-absorbing texture
- Noticeable glow and radiance
- Multi-tasking (vitamin C + peptides + AHA)
- Doesn't cause irritation for most users
- Pleasant, subtle citrus scent
- Layers well under makeup
- Glass bottle with protective coating
Criticized
- Expensive for the size ($97/oz)
- Vitamin C concentration not disclosed
- Lower potency than pure L-ascorbic acid serums
- Some find it slightly sticky
- Results take time (4-8 weeks)
- Contains fragrance (essential oils)
- Not pregnancy or fungal acne safe
- Dropper can get clogged
Budget-friendly alternatives (dupes)
DUPES
Higher vitamin C concentration (20% L-ascorbic acid) at a fraction of the price. Contains vitamin E and ferulic acid for enhanced stability. More potent but may oxidize faster.
Much higher vitamin C concentration and extremely affordable. However, has a grittier texture and may be more irritating. Lacks the peptide and AHA benefits.
Contains 10% pure vitamin C with salicylic acid. Great for sensitive skin with similar brightening effects. Lacks the peptide component.
15% L-ascorbic acid with vitamin E and ferulic acid. Well-researched formula with proven results. Different texture but similar brightening benefits.
Comparison with competitors
SIDE-BY-SIDE
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic
Storage & shelf life
12 MONTHS12 months after opening
Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. The opaque glass bottle provides light protection, but storing in a drawer or cabinet is recommended.
Opaque glass dropper bottle with double outer coating to protect formula from light exposure and prevent vitamin C degradation. Recyclable glass and FSC-certified carton.
Yes, 1 oz (30ml) is under the 100ml TSA liquid limit. Available in a mini 0.34 oz size for travel.
Frequently asked questions
FAQThis serum is NOT recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It contains essential oils (grapefruit peel oil, limonene) and dipotassium glycyrrhizate (licorice root extract) which are generally advised to avoid during pregnancy. The lactic acid content, while typically safe in low concentrations, adds another consideration. Consult your healthcare provider before use.
No, this serum is NOT fungal acne safe. It contains Polysorbate 20 and plant oils (sunflower seed oil, chia seed oil) with fatty acids that can feed malassezia yeast and potentially worsen fungal acne. If you have fungal acne concerns, look for FA-safe vitamin C alternatives.
This serum already contains lactic acid (an AHA), so layering additional AHAs or BHAs is not recommended as it may cause irritation. You can use this serum in the morning and retinol at night to avoid potential interactions. Since this contains stable vitamin C derivatives (not pure L-ascorbic acid), it's generally safe to use with most other active ingredients, but introduce new combinations slowly.
This serum is recommended for all skin types but works exceptionally well for normal, combination, oily, and mature skin. It's ideal for those with concerns about dullness, uneven skin tone, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and loss of firmness. Those with very sensitive skin or fungal acne should consider alternatives.
Most users notice an immediate glow and softer skin within the first week. Improved texture is typically visible at 2-4 weeks. Significant brightening and fading of dark spots usually occurs between 4-8 weeks. Clinical studies showed that 97% found skin smoother, 82% found skin visibly rejuvenated, and 76% found skin looked brighter after 8 weeks of use.
Apply after cleansing and toning, but before moisturizer. The order is: Cleanser → Toner → BioLumin-C Serum → Moisturizer → Eye Cream → Sunscreen (AM only). Can be used both morning and evening. Always use SPF during the day due to the AHA content which increases sun sensitivity.
This serum has a low comedogenic rating of 1/5. The oils used (chia seed oil, sunflower seed oil) have very low comedogenic ratings and are unlikely to clog pores for most skin types. The lightweight gel formula is designed to absorb quickly without leaving residue. However, everyone's skin is different, so patch testing is always recommended.
The serum has a PAO (Period After Opening) of 12 months. The ultra-stable vitamin C derivatives used in this formula are more resistant to oxidation than pure L-ascorbic acid, helping maintain efficacy throughout the product's lifespan. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight for best results. If the product turns brown or develops an off smell, discontinue use.
Verdict: Dermalogica BioLumin-C Serum is an excellent choice for those seeking a stable, multi-tasking vitamin C serum that won't oxidize quickly. While the concentration (4.7%) is lower than pure L-ascorbic acid serums, the combination of stable vitamin C derivatives, collagen-boosting peptides, and exfoliating lactic acid provides comprehensive anti-aging benefits. The premium price ($97/oz) may be a barrier for some, but the formula's stability and elegant texture justify the investment for those who value convenience and consistent results. Best suited for those new to vitamin C or anyone frustrated with serums that oxidize before the bottle is finished.
Product Overview
What are Quick Product Notes?
Quick product notes are a great way to check if a product is free from commonly avoided ingredients by skincare enthusiasts. These preferences come about for different reasons depending on the ingredient such as personal experiences, sensitivities, health preferences & etc.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product is not free from a common preference does not mean it's a bad product! You can make a personal decision whether or not you want to use a product that contains these ingredients or not - click the labels of the preference to read more about them.
Quick Product Notes
Paraben-Free
Paraben-Free
Understanding Parabens
Parabens are a large group of preservatives which are used to prevent bacteria growing in cosmetic formulations. There has been some healthy controversy surrounding them due to a few studies finding paraben presence in breast tumours and breast tissue. However, the majority of the scientific community have deemed these findings non-conclusive due to the limitations of these studies. There's still a lot of support for avoiding parabens following the better safe than sorry route. If you do we completely support you! If you are concerned about the health safety of parabens, then feel free to avoid them by looking out for the Paraben-Free icon. If not, don't worry about it - they do have had one of the longest safety records as preservatives!
Which Ingredients are classified as Paraben?
A product will be paraben-free if it does not contain any of the following parabens:
- Sodium Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Ethylparaben
- Sodium Butylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Isopropylparaben
- Isobutylparaben
- Sodium Propylparaben
- Butylparaben
- Ethylparaben
- Sodium Methylparaben
- Methylparaben
Sulfate-Free
Sulfate-Free
Understanding Sulfates
Sulfates are a large group of ingredients which act as cleansing agents in Cosmetics. They help loosen up the dirt and grime from your skin and hair to allow for water to wash it away with ease. However some sulfates are so good at their job, they can wash off your skin’s own natural oils that keep it moisturised and protected which can lead to dryness and irritation. Most people will find no issues with sulfate, however if you find your skin doesn't like sulfates then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the sulfate-free icon on Skincarisma.
Which ingredients are classified as sulfates?
We've taken the Sulfates which are considered more harsh for our Sulfate-Free status. A product will be Sulfate-Free if it does not contain any of the following Sulfates:
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
- PEG-15 Cocamine
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
- Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
- Ammonium Xylenesulfonate
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Sodium Xylenesulfonate
- Sodium Myreth Sulfate
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Alcohol-Free
Alcohol-Free
Understanding Simple Alcohols
Alcohol ingredients are widely used in cosmetics and come in different types. For the most part alcohols are not problematic at all. However one type of alcohols, simple alcohols can be quite drying to the skin because it evaporates very quickly. This can cause irritation which can also lead to other skin complications. These alcohols should never be used alone on your skin, but combined with other cosmetic ingredients, they are normally without issue. However, for some people with sensitive and easily irritable skin, avoiding products with these simple alcohols may be beneficial. If you find your skin doesn't like these simple alcohols, then free feel to avoid them by looking out for the Alcohol-Free icon.
Which Ingredients are classified as Alcohol?
A product will be alcohol-free if it does not contain any of the following alcohol ingredients:
- SD Alcohol
- Alcohol Denat
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Alcohol
Silicone-Free
Silicone-Free
Understanding Silicones
If you've ever used a skincare, makeup or beauty product that's made your skin look and feel smoother tempoarily - it's likely contained Silicone. They are a popular class of ingredients found in cosmetics due to their smooth, soft, easy-to-spread and smooth properties that help creates an artificial layer/barrier on top of skin or hair (commonly found in conditioners).
For the same reasons they are popularly used, they are also commonly avoided. Anecdotally, many individuals have reported that Silicones cause/excerbate breakouts, irritation, cause a feeling of skin being unable to breathe, cause clumping of cosmetic products and find it difficult to wash off. As a result, those who find them problematic are avoiding them and increasingly, cosmetic companies are avoiding them as well.
If you have had bad experiences with Silicones in the past, or suspect they are problematic then look out for the tick on the Silicone-free label.
Disclaimer
The Silicone-free label only includes the most common Silicone ingredients that have indentified been reported by individuals that could potentially cause issues.
These include: Amodimethicone, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Dimethiconol, Methicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
Note, that this does not include all ingredients part of the Silicone class of ingredients.
EU Allergen-Free
EU Allergen-Free
Understanding the Identified Contact Allergens
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has identified and established 26 cosmetic ingredients that are likely contact allergens (potential to cause skin allergies) as demonstrated in clinical or epidemiological studies. The EU's SCCS have recommend cosmetic companies to disclose them on the labels if used and in cases where the concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products, then they must be labelled.
Look out for the tick on the EU-Allergen free label to know your cosmetic is free from any of the 26 identified cosmetic ingredients.
For more information regarding the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, please visit their official website.
Disclaimer
The EU Allergen Free label is for the 26 ingredients identified by the EU SCCS and products will be only flagged if a suspected ingredient is on it's ingredient list. It is possible for cosmetics to contain one of the suspect ingredients without it appearing on the ingredient list due to it not reaching the concentration threshold to disclose it and cosmetic manufacturers choice to not disclose it.
Also note, the EU Allergen Free label is not personalized for your own allergies you may have and it does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Fungal Acne (Molassezia) Safe
Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis)
Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia folliculitis or simply known as Fungal Acne is a persistent acne-like condition that commonly responds poorly to traditional acne-treating methods. Unlike most cases of Acne where bacteria is the culprit, Fungi is the culprit of Fungal Acne (Hence the name!). There are certain classes & groups of ingredients that have been shown to promote and feed the growth of the Fungal Acne, Fungi such as fatty acids, oils, esters, polysorbates and fermented ingredients.
For more information regarding Fungal Acne, please visit Simple Skincare Science (f.c) - #3 of our Recommend Skincare Resources for an amazing comprehensive guide!
Please Read: How to use the Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Label
At SkinCarisma, we've done our best to identify as many ingredients as possible but note the fungal-free label may not be 100% accurate due to the complexconditions and combination of ingredients that malezzeria can thrive on.
Additionally, products that may contain ingredients that have shown to feed Malassezia may not neccessarily exacerbate the condition due to concentration of ingredient used in the product, this information is simply not available on the products.
As a result, please note this is only an experimental label that can be best used to possible identify problematic products you have used in the past. It is in no way a perfect identifier nor a predictor in whether or not it will exacerbate or cause fungal acne. It will continue to be worked on as more information and research comes to light.
If you find any ingredients you believe should be included, please email us at snails@skincarisma.com.
Disclaimer
Due to the lack of substantial research into this area it is very likely there are other ingredients and class/groups of ingredients that could feed Fungal Acne which have not been indentified.
The Fungal-Safe label does not constitute as medical advice. For your specific case, always consult your medical professiona such as dermatologist, physician, pharmacist, or health care provider - please read our medical disclaimer for more information.
What are Notable Effects & Ingredients?
Ever used a product that promised a certain effect but provided no results? It might not have contained any notable ingredients that could have been responsible for that promised effect. It doesn't matter what the marketing or packaging «promises» it can do, if it doesn't contain anything that can help - then the likelihood of it helping is low.
We help you identify key notable ingredients that have been shown to help with effects such as acne-fighting, brightening, UV-protection, wound healing & anti-aging to help you achieve your skincare goals smarter. Please note that different notable ingredients have varying levels of research behind them, some are extremely well proven yet some have mixed research in their efficacy.
Pro Tip Alert!
Just because a product doesn't contain any notable ingredients doesn't mean it's bad. And a product with notable ingredients (or even many) doesn't necessarily guarantee the efficacy of the product performing these effects either. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine this.
Be smart and use this as just a starting point for you to make more informed and smarter choices and compare it with reviews to see if the product is right for you
Notable Effects & Ingredients
Anti-Aging from 4 ingredient(s):
Brightening from 4 ingredient(s):
Promotes Wound Healing from 3 ingredient(s):
What are Ingredients Related to Skin Type?
Why are some products great for some people and horrible for others? Well everyone has different skin types and different reactions to the same ingredients.
We've identified a range of ingredients that are commonly regarded as potentially good or bad for those with Dry, Oily/Acne-Prone or Sensitive skin.
Pro Tip Alert!
A product that contains good or bad ingredients for your skin type doesn't always flat out make the entire product good or bad for your skin. There are other factors such as ingredient quality, concentration and formulation that will ultimately determine your skins reaction.
One of the best ways to use this section is to troubleshoot products you've had bad experiences with in the past. Check if it contains any of the marked ingredients to point out suspect ingredients to avoid in the future!
Ingredients Related to Skin Types
Dry Skin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
Sensitive Skin
What is the Ingredient Safety Breakdown?
Ingredient Safety Breakdown refers to the percentage % of ingredients in different risk categories as classified by EWG (Environment Working Group) if they are available. There are almost endless cosmetic ingredients and they are one of the few organisations globally that have assigned ratings to a lot of the more commonly used ingredients which is why we reference them.
Pro Tip Alert!
EWG is seen by many to be more on the alarmist side in their assignment of health ratings resulting in rating ingredients as riskier than they actually are. We recommend using this a reference point rather than a strict guide of ingredient safety and to always do further research if into ingredients that you may find suspect.
Ingredient Safety Breakdown
Product ingredient list
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Water
Solvent, Skin Conditioning
|
|
|
| 2 |
Glycerin
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Denaturant, Skin Conditioning
|
Brightening
Promotes Wound Healing
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Butylene Glycol
Solvent, Skin Conditioning, Masking, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Controlling, Viscositydecreasing Agent
|
Hydrating
|
|
| 1 |
Ethoxydiglycol
Solvent, Perfuming, Fragrance, Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent
|
|
|
| 0 |
Lactic Acid
|
Brightening
Anti-Aging
|