Spicule Retinol Shot 180 Serum

APLB

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The APLB Spicule Retinol Shot 180 Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 41 ingredients (33 low-risk) rates it Excellent (98/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.

Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
41
Low-risk
33
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
South Korea
Data updated
May 2026

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 11/4
Good for dry skin
Glucose Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate Squalane Inulin Caprylyl Glycol Butylene Glycol Sodium Hyaluronate Glycerin Fructose Hydrolyzed Collagen
Caution for dry skin
C12-14 Pareth-12 Cellulose Xanthan Gum Glycerin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 1/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Retinol
Sensitive Skin 4/9
Good for sensitive skin
Asiaticoside Glycerin Hydroxyacetophenone Allantoin
Caution for sensitive skin
Dipropylene Glycol Cellulose Gum Asiaticoside Butylene Glycol Glycerin Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Citric Acid Retinol Artemisia Annua Extract

Ingredients list

41 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All41 Skin Conditioning35 Humectant13 Viscosity Controlling9 Solvent7 Emulsion Stabilising7 Masking6 Hair Conditioning6 Fragrance5
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Propanediol
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
(Solvent)
1
A
1,2-Hexanediol
(Solvent)
1
A
Panthenol
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Hydroxyacetophenone
(Antioxidant)
1
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
B
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Allantoin
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Soothing)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
1
A
Cellulose Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Fragrance, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Disodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
A
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
(Flavoring Agent, Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Inulin
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
B
C12-14 Pareth-12
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
(Humectant, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Cellulose
(Absorbent, Bulking Agent, Slip Modifier, Opacifying, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Fructose
(Flavoring Agent, Humectant)
1
A
Glucose
(Flavoring Agent, Humectant, Skin Conditioning Agent Miscellaneous)
1
A
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
(Chelating Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Dipropylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Squalane
(Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Refatting, Skin Conditioning)
9
A
Retinol
(Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
Asiaticoside
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning, Perfuming)
1
Madecassic Acid
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Asiatic Acid
(Skin Conditioning, Stabilising)
Hydrolyzed Sponge
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
MELALEUCA ALTERNIFOLIA LEAF EXTRACT
(Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)
1
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Hydrolyzed Collagen
(Hair Conditioning, Nail Conditioning Agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Emollient, Film Forming, Humectant)
1
A
Beta-Glucan
(Bulking Agent, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant)
1
Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
Artemisia Annua Extract
(Masking)
Oryza sativa extract
(Abrasive, Absorbent, Bulking, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
Saccharomyces Ferment
(Skin Conditioning)
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
AHA
Exfoliates skin for a brighter complexion.
Retinoid
Visibly reduces the signs of aging.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrates by attracting and holding water.

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Redness ReducingSoothes visible redness and calms irritation.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Good For Oily SkinBalances oil and helps reduce shine.

Concerns

Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinol — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Propanediol
Solvent, Viscosity decreasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 SolventViscosity decreasing agentViscosity controlling
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
Solvent
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Solvent
1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Solvent
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Antioxidant
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion stabilising, Viscosity increasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Emulsion stabilisingViscosity increasing agentViscosity controlling
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A CIR B Skin conditioning
Cellulose Gum
Binding agent, Emulsion stabilising
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Binding agentEmulsion stabilisingFilm formingFragranceViscosity increasing agentBindingMaskingViscosity controlling
Disodium EDTA
Chelating agent, Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Chelating agentViscosity controlling
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Flavoring agent, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Flavoring agentSkin conditioningHumectant
Xanthan Gum
Binding agent, Emulsion stabilising
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Binding agentEmulsion stabilisingSkin conditioningSurfactant -emulsifying agentViscosity increasing agentBindingGel formingViscosity controlling
Inulin
Humectant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A HumectantSkin conditioning
C12-14 Pareth-12
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Humectant, Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 HumectantViscosity controlling
Cellulose
Absorbent, Bulking agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AbsorbentBulking agentSlip modifierOpacifyingViscosity controlling
+ 19 more — see the full ingredients list above
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Panthenol
Antistatic agent, Hair conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Antistatic agentHair conditioningSkin conditioning Good for Dry Skin
Allantoin
Skin conditioning, Skin protecting
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningSkin protectingSoothing Good for Oily SkinGood for Sensitive Skin
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Retinol
Skin conditioning
Potentially a skin irritantRead moreShow less
EWG 9 CIR A Skin conditioning Bad for Sensitive Skin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningHumectant Good for Dry Skin

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinol)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinol

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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