Advanced Serum

Azelain

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Azelain Advanced Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 34 ingredients (24 low-risk) rates it Excellent (97/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone, dry, and sensitive skin.

Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
34
Low-risk
24
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
Japan
Data updated
May 2026

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 8/6
Good for dry skin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate Butylene Glycol Sodium Hyaluronate Glycerin Hydrolyzed Collagen Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
Caution for dry skin
Centella Asiatica Extract Xanthan Gum Glycerin Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract Hydrogenated Lecithin Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 2/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sensitive Skin 7/7
Good for sensitive skin
Madecassoside Centella Asiatica Extract Asiaticoside Glycerin Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Caution for sensitive skin
Asiaticoside Arginine Butylene Glycol Glycerin Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Methylparaben Phenoxyethanol

Ingredients list

34 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (4)
All34 Skin Conditioning38 Humectant10 Hair Conditioning9 Fragrance7 Solvent4 Antioxidant4 Soothing3 Perfuming3
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
(Skin Conditioning)
Glycyl Glycine
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Niacinamide
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
(Humectant)
1
B
Centella Asiatica Extract
(Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing, Soothing, Tonic)
1
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
(Astringent, Humectant, Soothing)
1
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
(Antioxidant)
glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
(Bleaching, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient, Smoothing, Soothing)
1
B
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
(Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient, Humectant, Masking, Oral Care Agent, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic, Uv Absorber)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
(Antimicrobial, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER EXTRACT
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
Madecassoside
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Asiaticoside
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning, Perfuming)
1
Asiatic Acid
(Skin Conditioning, Stabilising)
1
Madecassic Acid
(Skin Conditioning)
2
A
Hydrogenated Lecithin
(Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant)
1
A
Hydrolyzed Collagen
(Hair Conditioning, Nail Conditioning Agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Emollient, Film Forming, Humectant)
1
A
Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
(Flavoring Agent, Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
1
A
Phytosterols
(Skin Conditioning)
Ceramide EOP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Ceramide NG
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Ceramide NP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Ceramide Ag
(Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
Ceramide AP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Pentylene Glycol
(Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Arginine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Masking)
1
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
4
A
Methylparaben
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Ceramides
Locks in moisture and supports skin barrier.
Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
Niacinamide
Strengthens, smooths, and brightens skin.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrates by attracting and holding water.
Azelaic Acid
Gently exfoliates and reduces inflammation.

Benefits

Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.
Redness ReducingSoothes visible redness and calms irritation.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
Skin TextureSmooths rough patches and refines texture.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.

Concerns

Contains paraben
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Glycyl Glycine
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Hair conditioningSkin conditioning
Niacinamide
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningSmoothing
PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 Humectant
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B CleansingSkin conditioningSmoothingSoothingTonic
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Astringent, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AstringentHumectantSoothing
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Antioxidant
glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Bleaching, Perfuming
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A BleachingPerfumingSkin conditioningSkin conditioning emollientSmoothingSoothing
rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Antimicrobial, Fragrance
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntimicrobialFragranceSkin conditioning
CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER EXTRACT
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioning
Madecassoside
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AntioxidantSkin conditioning
Asiaticoside
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AntioxidantSkin conditioningPerfuming
Asiatic Acid
Skin conditioning, Stabilising
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningStabilising
Madecassic Acid
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
+ 13 more — see the full ingredients list above
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B AntimicrobialAntioxidantAstringentEmollientHumectantMaskingOral care agentSkin conditioningSkin protectingTonicUv absorber Good for Oily Skin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningHumectant Good for Dry Skin
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben
Methylparaben
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Niacinamide 2–5% (up to 10%)

Most research uses 2–5%; some formulas go to 10%. Very high levels can cause flushing in sensitive skin.

Niacinamide

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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