88mph Short Contact Remodelling Balm
The Cipher Skincare 88mph Short Contact Remodelling Balm is a treatment. Our analysis of its 42 ingredients (32 low-risk) rates it Excellent (98/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone, dry, and sensitive skin.
The Cipher Skincare 88mph Short Contact Remodelling Balm is a treatment. Our analysis of its 42 ingredients (32 low-risk) rates it Excellent (98/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone, dry, and sensitive skin.
Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.
The evidence
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
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Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning) |
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Fusanus Spicatus Kernel Oil
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient) |
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Phospholipids
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate
(Emulsifying) |
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Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
(Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant) |
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Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant) |
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Water
(Solvent) |
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Glycereth-26
(Humectant, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Solvent, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Dextrin Palmitate
(Anticaking Agent, Emulsifying, Surfactant) |
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Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient) |
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Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Isodecyl Neopentanoate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient) |
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Olive Glycerides
(Emulsifying, Humectant) |
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Propanediol
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent) |
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent) |
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Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
(Flavoring Agent, Skin Conditioning, Soothing) |
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Ectoin
(Buffering Agent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient) |
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Salicylic Acid
(Antiacne Agent, Antidandruff Agent, Corn/Callus/Wart Remover, Denaturant, Exfoliant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Keratolytic, Masking, Preservative) |
Good for Oily Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
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Hypericum Perforatum Extract
(Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Soothing, Tonic) |
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Panthenol
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning) |
Good for Dry Skin
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Oryzanol
(Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent) |
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Madecassoside
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning) |
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TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning) |
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Retinal
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Tripeptide-29
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Dimethyl Isosorbide
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Hyaluronic Acid
(Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Humectant, Moisturising) |
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Ceramide NP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning) |
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Ceramide AP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning) |
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Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Phytosphingosine
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning) |
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Cholesterol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Ceramide EOP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning) |
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Bisabolol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Soothing) |
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Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
(Fragrance, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Tonic) |
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ASCORBIC ACID
(Antioxidant, Buffering, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning) |
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Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
(Emulsifying, Surfactant) |
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Carbomer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent) |
No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.
How to use
General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.
Trust & honesty
Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.
Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.
Low-strength topical salicylic acid (BHA) is generally considered fine. Caution is usually reserved for high-strength leave-on products and salicylic peels.
This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.
The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.
Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.
Retinal
L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.
ASCORBIC ACID
Salicylic acid is OTC-capped at 2%; 0.5–2% is the usual leave-on range. Much below that it acts more as a soothing agent than an exfoliant.
Salicylic Acid
INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.
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