Universal Cleansing Balm

derma e

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The derma e Universal Cleansing Balm is a makeup remover. Our analysis of its 21 ingredients (12 low-risk) rates it Excellent (95/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Makeup Removers
Ingredients
21
Low-risk
12
Fragrance
Contains fragrance
Origin
United States
Status
Discontinued
Data updated
Jun 2026

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 7/4
Good for dry skin
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Rosa Canina Fruit Oil Cetyl Alcohol Ethylhexyl Palmitate Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate
Caution for dry skin
Cetyl Alcohol Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate Polyhydroxystearic Acid Polysorbate 20
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 1/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Retinol
Sensitive Skin 2/4
Good for sensitive skin
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Tocopheryl Acetate
Caution for sensitive skin
Cetyl Alcohol Ethylhexyl Palmitate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Retinol

Ingredients list

21 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All21 Skin Conditioning18 Fragrance8 Emollient7 Emulsifying5 Perfuming4 Emulsion Stabilising3 Surfactant3 Skin Conditioning Emollient3
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
B
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
B
Lauryl Laurate
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Hair Conditioning, Opacifying, Skin Conditioningagent Miscellaneous, Skin Conditioning)
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
1
Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
(Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Emulsifying)
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
(Skin Conditioning Emollient)
THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient, Skin Protecting)
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
(Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Cetyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
1
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
9
A
Retinol
(Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
3
B
Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
(Fragrance, Perfuming)
citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
PARFUM
(Fragrance, Perfuming)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
Retinoid
Visibly reduces the signs of aging.
Vitamin C
Brightens, evens tone, and supports collagen.
Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Reduces Large PoresMinimizes the look of enlarged pores.
Skin TextureSmooths rough patches and refines texture.
Acne FightingFights acne and helps prevent breakouts.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.

Concerns

Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinol — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientMaskingPerfumingSkin conditioningSolvent
Lauryl Laurate
Binding agent, Emulsion stabilising
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Binding agentEmulsion stabilisingHair conditioningOpacifyingSkin-conditioningagent - miscellaneousSkin conditioning
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioning
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioningSkin conditioning emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactant
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Suspending agent - nonsurfactant, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Suspending agent - nonsurfactantEmulsifying
Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera
Skin conditioning emollient
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning emollient
THEOBROMA CACAO SEED BUTTER
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioningSkin conditioning emollientSkin protecting
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin conditioning, Viscosity controlling
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningViscosity controlling
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingFragranceOpacifyingEmulsifyingSurfactantFoam boostingViscosity increasing agentEmollientMaskingViscosity controlling
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientSkin conditioning
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AntioxidantSkin conditioning
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientSkin conditioningSolvent
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Fragrance, Perfuming
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragrancePerfuming
citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioning
+ 1 more — see the full ingredients list above
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B FragranceSkin conditioningEmollientPerfuming Fungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Skin conditioningEmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Retinol
Skin conditioning
Potentially a skin irritantRead moreShow less
EWG 9 CIR A Skin conditioning Bad for Sensitive Skin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Use as the first step, on clean hands, before the rest of your routine.
  • 2 Morning & evening: Suitable for both AM and PM use.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinol)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinol

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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