Activ Retinol 1.0 Intense Age Defense Serum

Dermaceutic Laboratoire

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Dermaceutic Laboratoire Activ Retinol 1.0 Intense Age Defense Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 30 ingredients (25 low-risk) rates it Excellent (90/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
30
Low-risk
25
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
France
Data updated
May 2026

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 8/7
Good for dry skin
Glyceryl Stearate Glyceryl Oleate Diglycerin Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Cholesterol Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate Sphingolipids Lecithin
Caution for dry skin
Glyceryl Oleate Trideceth-9 t-Butyl Alcohol Sodium Hydroxide Polysorbate 20 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Lecithin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 1/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Retinol
Sensitive Skin 6/11
Good for sensitive skin
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Ascorbyl Palmitate Sphingolipids Allantoin BHT BHA
Caution for sensitive skin
Glyceryl Oleate Sodium Citrate Ascorbyl Palmitate t-Butyl Alcohol Citric Acid Potassium Sorbate PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Phenoxyethanol BHT Retinol BHA

Ingredients list

30 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All30 Skin Conditioning21 Fragrance9 Emulsifying7 Emollient7 Surfactant5 Masking5 Antioxidant5 Buffering Agent3
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
Diglycerin
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
B
Trideceth-9
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
(Uv Absorber)
3
B
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
(Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Panthenol
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
9
A
Retinol
(Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1
A
Ascorbyl Palmitate
(Antioxidant, Masking)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Allantoin
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Soothing)
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Oily Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
Good for Sensitive Skin
1
A
Cholesterol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling)
3
Sphingolipids
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Skin Protecting)
1
A
Phospholipids
(Skin Conditioning)
2
3
Lecithin
(Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Antistatic Agent, Emollient)
1
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling)
3
B
Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
2
A
t-Butyl Alcohol
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Solvent, Perfuming)
1
A
Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
A
Potassium Sorbate
(Fragrance, Preservative)
1
A
Glyceryl Oleate
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Sodium Citrate
(Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Chelating, Masking)
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
6
A
BHT
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Masking)
5
7
BHA
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
1
A
Disodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
3
B
Sodium Hydroxide
(Denaturant, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
Vitamin C
Brightens, evens tone, and supports collagen.
Retinoid
Visibly reduces the signs of aging.
Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Redness ReducingSoothes visible redness and calms irritation.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Dark SpotsFades dark spots for even skin tone.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.

Concerns

Contains paraben
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinol — higher EWG
BHA — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Diglycerin
Humectant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 HumectantSkin conditioningSolvent
Trideceth-9
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Uv absorber
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Uv absorber
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AntioxidantSkin conditioningEmollient
TOCOPHEROL
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntioxidantFragranceSkin conditioning
Cholesterol
Emulsion stabilising, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingSkin conditioningViscosity increasing agentEmollientEmulsifyingStabilisingViscosity controlling
Sphingolipids
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 Skin conditioningEmollientSkin protecting
Phospholipids
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioning
Lecithin
Skin conditioning, Emulsifying
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 2–3 Skin conditioningEmulsifyingSurfactantAntistatic agentEmollient
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion stabilising, Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Emulsion stabilisingViscosity controlling
Ethylhexylglycerin
Deodorant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A DeodorantSkin conditioning
t-Butyl Alcohol
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceSolventPerfuming
Potassium Sorbate
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A FragrancePreservative
Sodium Citrate
Ph adjuster, Buffering agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Ph adjusterBuffering agentChelatingMasking
+ 2 more — see the full ingredients list above
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Fragrance, Emulsifying
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B FragranceEmulsifyingSurfactantPerfuming Fungal-acne trigger
Panthenol
Antistatic agent, Hair conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Antistatic agentHair conditioningSkin conditioning Good for Dry Skin
Retinol
Skin conditioning
Potentially a skin irritantRead moreShow less
EWG 9 CIR A Skin conditioning Bad for Sensitive Skin
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AntioxidantMasking Fungal-acne trigger
Allantoin
Skin conditioning, Skin protecting
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningSkin protectingSoothing Good for Oily SkinGood for Sensitive Skin
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningEmollient Fungal-acne trigger
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Oleate
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactantPerfuming Fungal-acne trigger
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
BHT
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 6 CIR A AntioxidantFragranceMasking
BHA
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5–7 AntioxidantFragranceMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Morning only: Apply as the last step of your AM routine, after moisturiser, and reapply every ~2 hours of sun exposure.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinol)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinol

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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