DERMAdoctor Poetry in Lotion Intensive Retinol 1.0
The DERMAdoctor Poetry in Lotion Intensive Retinol 1.0 is a moisturizer. Our analysis of its 60 ingredients (57 low-risk) rates it Excellent (97/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.
The DERMAdoctor Poetry in Lotion Intensive Retinol 1.0 is a moisturizer. Our analysis of its 60 ingredients (57 low-risk) rates it Excellent (97/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.
Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.
The evidence
| EWG | CIR | Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
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Water
(Solvent) |
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent) |
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Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent) |
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Glyceryl Polyacrylate
(Film Forming) |
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Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
(Binding, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Opacifying) |
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Cyclopentasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent) |
Silicone
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Dimethicone Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Hair Fixing, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Viscosity Increasingagent Nonaqueous, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Stearic Acid
(Fragrance, Sufactant, Emulsifying, Surfactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Stearic Acid., Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Refatting) |
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying) |
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Cyclomethicone
(Antistatic Agent, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Solvent, Viscosity Controlling) |
Silicone
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Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil |
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Stearyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foambooster, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Foam Boosting, Masking, Opacifying, Refatting, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter |
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Polysorbate 60
(Emulsifying, Surfactant) |
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Sorbitol
(Flavoring Agent, Fragrance, Humectant, Plasticizer, Skin Conditioning) |
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Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative) |
Paraben
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Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant) |
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Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning) |
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Hexylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Emulsifying, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant) |
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Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Retinol
(Skin Conditioning) |
Bad for Sensitive Skin
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Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant) |
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling) |
Good for Dry Skin
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PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant) |
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Carbomer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid
(Antioxidant) |
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Oleanolic Acid
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Dimethicone
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Protecting, Emollient, Skin Conditioning) |
Silicone
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Phytosphingosine
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning) |
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Caffeine
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Masking) |
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(-)-alpha-isabolol | |
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Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
(Flavoring Agent, Skin Conditioning, Humectant) |
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TEA-Carbomer
(Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling) |
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Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant) |
Good for Dry Skin
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Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
(Antimicrobial) |
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Sodium Benzoate
(Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive, Masking) |
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Potassium Sorbate
(Fragrance, Preservative) |
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Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Boswellia Serrata Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
(Antioxidant, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Perfuming) |
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Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract
(Cosmetic Biocide) |
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Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient) |
Good for Dry Skin
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Ceramide 2
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning) |
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PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
(Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Perfuming) |
Fungal Acne Trigger
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Panax Ginseng Root Extract
(Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic) |
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Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Abrasive) |
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Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract | |
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BHT
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Masking) |
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Hypericum Perforatum Leaf Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract
(Oral Care Agent, Skin Conditioning) |
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Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
(Refreshing, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Tonic) |
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Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Leaf Extract
(Skin Conditioning) |
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Centella Asiatica Extract
(Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing, Soothing, Tonic) |
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Leucine
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning) |
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Valine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Masking) |
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Tyrosine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Proprietary, Skin Conditioning Agent Miscellaneous, Antistatic Agent, Masking, Skin Conditioning) |
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Arginine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Masking) |
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Lysine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent) |
No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.
EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →
How to use
General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.
Trust & honesty
Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.
Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.
This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.
The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.
Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.
Retinol
INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.
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