DERMAdoctor Poetry in Lotion Intensive Retinol 1.0

DERMAdoctor

DERMAdoctor Poetry in Lotion Intensive Retinol 1.0

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About this product

The DERMAdoctor Poetry in Lotion Intensive Retinol 1.0 is a moisturizer. Our analysis of its 60 ingredients (57 low-risk) rates it Excellent (97/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Moisturizers
Ingredients
60
Low-risk
57
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
United States

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 17/10
Good for dry skin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract Glyceryl Stearate Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Sorbitol Stearyl Alcohol Panax Ginseng Root Extract Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylyl Glycol Butylene Glycol Sodium Hyaluronate Glycerin Cyclomethicone Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
Caution for dry skin
Dimethicone Crosspolymer Centella Asiatica Extract Stearic Acid Stearyl Alcohol Glycerin Hexylene Glycol Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 60 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 1/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Retinol
Sensitive Skin 10/19
Good for sensitive skin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid Centella Asiatica Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract Panax Ginseng Root Extract Glycerin Dimethicone BHT
Caution for sensitive skin
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract Lysine Valine Sorbitol Stearic Acid Stearyl Alcohol Arginine Caffeine Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Glycerin Tyrosine Hexylene Glycol Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Phenoxyethanol BHT Retinol

Ingredients list

60 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All60 Skin Conditioning49 Fragrance16 Hair Conditioning12 Emollient11 Masking10 Emulsion Stabilising10 Humectant10 Emulsifying8
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
A
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
(Film Forming)
2
B
Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
(Binding, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Opacifying)
3
A
Cyclopentasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
Silicone
Silicone
1
A
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Hair Fixing, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Viscosity Increasingagent Nonaqueous, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Stearic Acid
(Fragrance, Sufactant, Emulsifying, Surfactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Stearic Acid., Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Refatting)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
2
A
Cyclomethicone
(Antistatic Agent, Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Solvent, Viscosity Controlling)
Silicone
Silicone
1
A
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Stearyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foambooster, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Foam Boosting, Masking, Opacifying, Refatting, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
B
Polysorbate 60
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Sorbitol
(Flavoring Agent, Fragrance, Humectant, Plasticizer, Skin Conditioning)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
1
A
Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant)
1
A
Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Hexylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Emulsifying, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant)
1
B
Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
9
A
Retinol
(Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
3
B
Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
3
B
PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
A
Carbomer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid
(Antioxidant)
1
Oleanolic Acid
(Skin Conditioning)
3
A
Dimethicone
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Protecting, Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
Silicone
Silicone
1
Phytosphingosine
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
Caffeine
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Masking)
1
(-)-alpha-isabolol
1
A
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
(Flavoring Agent, Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
2
TEA-Carbomer
(Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
(Antimicrobial)
3
A
Sodium Benzoate
(Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive, Masking)
3
A
Potassium Sorbate
(Fragrance, Preservative)
1
Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Boswellia Serrata Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
(Antioxidant, Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Perfuming)
1
B
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract
(Cosmetic Biocide)
1
A
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Ceramide 2
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
3
B
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
(Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
(Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic)
1
B
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Abrasive)
1
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract
6
A
BHT
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Masking)
1
Hypericum Perforatum Leaf Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Flower Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract
(Oral Care Agent, Skin Conditioning)
1
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
(Refreshing, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Tonic)
1
Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Leaf Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
1
B
Centella Asiatica Extract
(Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing, Soothing, Tonic)
1
A
Leucine
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Valine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Masking)
1
A
Tyrosine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Proprietary, Skin Conditioning Agent Miscellaneous, Antistatic Agent, Masking, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Arginine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Masking)
1
A
Lysine
(Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant, Skin Protecting
Cyclopentasiloxane
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cyclomethicone
Emollient, Humectant
Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient

Benefits

Good for dry skin
Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains silicone
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinol — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientMaskingPerfumingSkin conditioningSolvent
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Film forming
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Film forming
Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Binding, Emulsion stabilising
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR B BindingEmulsion stabilisingFilm formingOpacifying
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion stabilising, Hair fixing
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingHair fixingSuspending agent - nonsurfactantViscosity increasingagent - nonaqueousViscosity controlling
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingFragranceEmulsifyingSurfactant- foamboosterViscosity increasing agentEmollientFoam boostingMaskingOpacifyingRefattingViscosity controlling
Sorbitol
Flavoring agent, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Flavoring agentFragranceHumectantPlasticizerSkin conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientHumectant
Ethylhexylglycerin
Deodorant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A DeodorantSkin conditioning
Hexylene Glycol
Fragrance, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSolventViscosity decreasing agentEmulsifyingPerfumingSkin conditioningSurfactant
Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
Emulsion stabilising, Opacifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Emulsion stabilisingOpacifyingViscosity increasing agentViscosity controlling
PEG-60 Almond Glycerides
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B Skin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactant
Carbomer
Emulsion stabilising, Viscosity increasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingViscosity increasing agentGel formingViscosity controlling
Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid
Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Antioxidant
Oleanolic Acid
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
+ 28 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Cyclopentasiloxane
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientSolvent Silicone
Stearic Acid
Fragrance, Sufactant
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSufactantEmulsifyingSurfactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of stearic acid.Emulsion stabilisingMaskingRefatting Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Cyclomethicone
Antistatic agent, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Antistatic agentEmollientHair conditioningHumectantSolventViscosity controlling Silicone
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Fungal-acne trigger
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Other
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben
Retinol
Skin conditioning
Potentially a skin irritantRead moreShow less
EWG 9 CIR A Skin conditioning Bad for Sensitive Skin
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Dimethicone
Antifoaming agent, Skin protecting
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Antifoaming agentSkin protectingEmollientSkin conditioning Silicone
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningHumectant Good for Dry Skin
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningEmollient Good for Dry Skin
+ 2 more — see the full ingredients list above

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply near the end of your routine, after thinner serums.
  • 2 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinol)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinol

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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