Custom Formula (Tretinoin 0.05%/ Hydroquinone 4%) Cream

Dermatica

Custom Formula (Tretinoin 0.05%/ Hydroquinone 4%) Cream

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About this product

The Dermatica Custom Formula (Tretinoin 0.05%/ Hydroquinone 4%) Cream is a misc. Our analysis of its 32 ingredients (27 low-risk) rates it Excellent (97/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to dry skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Misc
Ingredients
32
Low-risk
27
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
United Kingdom
SPF
15 · blocks 93.3% UVB
Data updated
May 2026

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 10/7
Good for dry skin
Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Behenate Isododecane Isohexadecane Sodium Hyaluronate Glycerin Propylene Glycol Cholesterol
Caution for dry skin
Cetyl Alcohol Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate Xanthan Gum Glycerin Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 60 PEG-75 Stearate
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin No data
Sensitive Skin 4/7
Good for sensitive skin
Glycerin Sodium Bisulfite Tocopheryl Acetate Hydroquinone
Caution for sensitive skin
Cetyl Alcohol Isododecane Glycerin Propylene Glycol Benzoic Acid Sorbic Acid Hydroquinone

Ingredients list

32 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All32 Skin Conditioning19 Emulsion Stabilising9 Fragrance8 Viscosity Controlling8 Emulsifying7 Emollient7 Viscosity Increasing Agent7 Hair Conditioning6
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
9
Hydroquinone
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Hair Dyeing Reducing, Skin Bleaching Agent, Hair Dyeing)
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Cetearyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent Aqueous, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Panthenol
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
B
Isohexadecane
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
1
B
Isododecane
(Fragrance, Solvent, Emollient, Perfuming)
1
B
Stearyl Behenate
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Cetyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
2
Polyacrylate-13
(Film Forming)
3
B
Polysorbate 60
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
A
PEG-75 Stearate
(Surfactant)
1
A
Polyisobutene
(Binding Agent, Film Forming, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Viscosity Controlling)
1
C13-15 Alkane
(Solvent)
Polyurethane-39
(Viscosity Controlling)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
ASCORBIC ACID
(Antioxidant, Buffering, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
3
A
Sodium Bisulfite
(Antioxidant, Hair Waving Or Straightening, Reducing, Preservative)
3
A
Benzoic Acid
(Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Preservative, Bulking Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
3
A
Sorbic Acid
(Fragrance, Preservative)
3
B
Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
B
Propylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioningagent Miscellaneous, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Ceramide AP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Ceramide EOP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
Ceramide NP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
Phytosphingosine
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Cholesterol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Carbomer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Ceramides
Locks in moisture and supports skin barrier.
Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
Retinoid
Visibly reduces the signs of aging.
Vitamin C
Brightens, evens tone, and supports collagen.
Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrates by attracting and holding water.
Show all 6 key ingredients

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
Redness ReducingSoothes visible redness and calms irritation.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Dark SpotsFades dark spots for even skin tone.

Concerns

Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Hydroquinone — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Opacifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingOpacifyingFoam boostingViscosity increasingagent - aqueousViscosity increasing agentEmollientEmulsifyingViscosity controlling
Isohexadecane
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Skin conditioningEmollientSolvent
Isododecane
Fragrance, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B FragranceSolventEmollientPerfuming
Stearyl Behenate
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmollientSkin conditioning
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingFragranceOpacifyingEmulsifyingSurfactantFoam boostingViscosity increasing agentEmollientMaskingViscosity controlling
Polyacrylate-13
Film forming
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 Film forming
PEG-75 Stearate
Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Surfactant
Polyisobutene
Binding agent, Film forming
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Binding agentFilm formingViscosity increasing agentBindingViscosity controlling
C13-15 Alkane
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Polyurethane-39
Viscosity controlling
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Viscosity controlling
ASCORBIC ACID
Antioxidant, Buffering
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntioxidantBufferingFragranceSkin conditioning
Sodium Bisulfite
Antioxidant, Hair waving or straightening
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A AntioxidantHair waving or straighteningReducingPreservative
Sorbic Acid
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A FragrancePreservative
Ceramide AP
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Hair conditioningSkin conditioning
+ 7 more — see the full ingredients list above
Hydroquinone
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 9 AntioxidantFragranceHair dyeing reducingSkin bleaching agentHair dyeing
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Panthenol
Antistatic agent, Hair conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Antistatic agentHair conditioningSkin conditioning Good for Dry Skin
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Benzoic Acid
Fragrance, Ph adjuster
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A FragrancePh adjusterPreservativeBulking agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Propylene Glycol
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B FragranceHumectantSkin-conditioningagent - miscellaneousSolventViscosity decreasing agentSkin conditioningViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningHumectant Good for Dry Skin

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Morning works well: Antioxidants like vitamin C pair well with daytime use under sunscreen.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Hydroquinone (Hydroquinone)

Commonly advised to avoid in pregnancy because a relatively high proportion is absorbed through the skin.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

ASCORBIC ACID

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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