Dr. Denese New York FirmaTone RetinolMax Neurotrophic Night Cream

Dr. Denese New York

Dr. Denese New York FirmaTone RetinolMax Neurotrophic Night Cream

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About this product

The Dr. Denese New York FirmaTone RetinolMax Neurotrophic Night Cream is a moisturizer. Our analysis of its 34 ingredients (27 low-risk) rates it Excellent (88/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Moisturizers
Ingredients
34
Low-risk
27
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
United States

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 9/6
Good for dry skin
C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Alcohol Cetyl Ricinoleate Cetyl Alcohol Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Glycerin Cyclohexasiloxane Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane
Caution for dry skin
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Glycerin Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 60
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 1/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Sensitive Skin 7/12
Good for sensitive skin
Ascorbyl Palmitate Glycerin Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Dimethicone Tocopheryl Acetate Propyl Gallate BHT
Caution for sensitive skin
Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Ascorbyl Palmitate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Glycerin Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) Propyl Gallate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol BHT Methyl Methacrylate

Ingredients list

34 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All34 Skin Conditioning21 Emollient8 Fragrance8 Solvent7 Masking7 Emulsifying7 Antioxidant5 Viscosity Controlling5
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Cetearyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Opacifying, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasingagent Aqueous, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Viscosity Controlling)
1
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
(Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Cetyl Ricinoleate
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
3
A
Dimethicone
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Protecting, Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
Silicone
Silicone
3
B
Polysorbate 60
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
9
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
A
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Ascorbyl Palmitate
(Antioxidant, Masking)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
(Skin Conditioning, Sufactant)
1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Stearic Acid
(Fragrance, Sufactant, Emulsifying, Surfactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Stearic Acid., Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Refatting)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
(-)-alpha-isabolol
3
A
Cyclopentasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
Silicone
Silicone
1
A
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
(Absorbent, Anticaking Agent, Opacifying, Slip Modifier, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
6
A
BHT
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Masking)
1
A
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
(Film Forming, Viscosity Increasing Agent)
1
A
Disodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
5
A
Benzyl Alcohol
(External Analgesic, Fragrance, Oral Health Care Drug, Preservative, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
8
9
Methyl Methacrylate
(Anticaking Agent, Opacifying)
1
A
Cetyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
C13-14 Isoparaffin
(Emollient, Solvent)
4
A
PEG-10 Soy Sterol
(Emulsifying)
4
B
Polyacrylamide
(Binding Agent, Film Forming, Hair Fixing, Antistatic Agent, Binding)
3
B
Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
2
A
Cyclohexasiloxane
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Solvent)
3
B
Propyl Gallate
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Perfuming)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant, Skin Protecting
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
Skin Conditioning
Cetyl Ricinoleate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Dimethicone
Skin Protecting, Emollient

Benefits

Good for dry skin
Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains silicone
Contains eu allergen
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) — higher EWG
Methyl Methacrylate — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientMaskingPerfumingSkin conditioningSolvent
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Opacifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingOpacifyingFoam boostingViscosity increasingagent - aqueousViscosity increasing agentEmollientEmulsifyingViscosity controlling
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
Emulsifying, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 EmulsifyingSkin conditioningViscosity controlling
Cetyl Ricinoleate
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B EmollientSkin conditioning
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioning
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Skin conditioning, Sufactant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningSufactant
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
(-)-alpha-isabolol
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Absorbent, Anticaking agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AbsorbentAnticaking agentOpacifyingSlip modifierViscosity increasing agentViscosity controlling
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Film forming, Viscosity increasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Film formingViscosity increasing agent
Disodium EDTA
Chelating agent, Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Chelating agentViscosity controlling
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingFragranceOpacifyingEmulsifyingSurfactantFoam boostingViscosity increasing agentEmollientMaskingViscosity controlling
+ 5 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Dimethicone
Antifoaming agent, Skin protecting
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Antifoaming agentSkin protectingEmollientSkin conditioning Silicone
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)
Other
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 9 Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AntioxidantFragrancePh adjusterSkin conditioningBuffering agentMasking Good for Dry Skin
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AntioxidantMasking Fungal-acne trigger
Stearic Acid
Fragrance, Sufactant
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSufactantEmulsifyingSurfactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of stearic acid.Emulsion stabilisingMaskingRefatting Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Cyclopentasiloxane
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientSolvent Silicone
BHT
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 6 CIR A AntioxidantFragranceMasking
Benzyl Alcohol
External analgesic, Fragrance
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 CIR A External analgesicFragranceOral health care drugPreservativeSolventViscosity decreasing agentMasking Allergens
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben
Methyl Methacrylate
Anticaking agent, Opacifying
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 8–9 Anticaking agentOpacifying
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply near the end of your routine, after thinner serums.
  • 2 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A))

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Ascorbyl Palmitate

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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