Retinal Advance Serum

Elsheskin

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Elsheskin Retinal Advance Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 67 ingredients (50 low-risk) rates it Excellent (97/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to dry skin.

Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
67
Low-risk
50
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
Indonesia
Data updated
Jun 2026

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 16/9
Good for dry skin
Glyceryl Stearate Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Caprylate Cetyl Alcohol Squalane Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Ethoxydiglycol Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylyl Glycol Butylene Glycol Glycerin Propylene Glycol Cholesterol Hydrolyzed Collagen Hyaluronic Acid Lecithin
Caution for dry skin
Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Caprylate Behenic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Xanthan Gum Glycerin Ceteareth-25 Polysorbate 60 Lecithin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin No data
Sensitive Skin 7/17
Good for sensitive skin
Ascorbyl Palmitate Asparagopsis Armata Extract Alpha-Arbutin Ubiquinone Glycerin Sodium Nitrate Tocopheryl Acetate
Caution for sensitive skin
Glyceryl Oleate Disodium Phosphate Dipropylene Glycol Cetyl Alcohol Ascorbyl Palmitate Ethoxydiglycol Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Glycerin Propylene Glycol Phenylpropanol Citric Acid Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate Phenoxyethanol Glyoxal

Ingredients list

67 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (10)
All67 Skin Conditioning57 Fragrance15 Hair Conditioning12 Viscosity Controlling11 Solvent10 Emollient10 Masking10 Humectant10
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Pentylene Glycol
(Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
Propanediol
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Niacinamide
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)
1
A
Dipropylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Alpha-Arbutin
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Hydrolyzed Collagen
(Hair Conditioning, Nail Conditioning Agent, Skin Conditioning, Antistatic Agent, Emollient, Film Forming, Humectant)
5
6
Retinal
(Skin Conditioning)
ASCORBIC ACID
(Antioxidant, Buffering, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Phospholipids
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
B
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
(Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
3
B
Ceteareth-25
(Cleansing, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
A
Cetyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Behenic Acid
(Opacifying, Sufactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Behenic Acid., Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Cholesterol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Emulsifying, Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Ceramide NP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Ceramide NS
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Ceramide EOS
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Ceramide EOP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
Ceramide AP
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
A
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
A
Caprooyl Sphingosine
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
1
A
Ascorbyl Palmitate
(Antioxidant, Masking)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
2
3
Lecithin
(Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Antistatic Agent, Emollient)
1
A
Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Glyceryl Oleate
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-76
(Skin Conditioning)
CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA FLOWER EXTRACT
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
3
A
Sodium Benzoate
(Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive, Masking)
3
A
Potassium Sorbate
(Fragrance, Preservative)
1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
(Skin Conditioning)
1
Magnesium Chloride
(Viscosity Controlling)
1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
(Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)
3
B
Propylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Humectant, Skin Conditioningagent Miscellaneous, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
(Skin Protecting)
1
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
(Viscosity Controlling)
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Callus Extract
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52
(Skin Conditioning)
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Polyvinyl Alcohol
(Binding Agent, Film Forming, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant)
1
A
Glyceryl Caprylate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
Phenylpropanol
(Masking, Perfuming, Solvent)
1
Oligopeptide-1
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Squalane
(Emollient, Hair Conditioning, Refatting, Skin Conditioning)
1
Ubiquinone
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
A
Hydroxyethylcellulose
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Disodium Phosphate
(Buffering Agent, Anticorrosive, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Masking)
1
B
Sodium Phosphate
(Buffering Agent)
3
B
Polysorbate 60
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Sodium Nitrate
(Oral Care Agent, Soothing)
10
B
Glyoxal
(Antimicrobial)
1
A
Ethoxydiglycol
(Fragrance, Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Humectant, Perfuming)
1
A
Hyaluronic Acid
(Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Humectant, Moisturising)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
Peptides
Supports skin hydration and improves firmness.
Ceramides
Locks in moisture and supports skin barrier.
Vitamin C
Brightens, evens tone, and supports collagen.
Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.
Retinoid
Visibly reduces the signs of aging.
Niacinamide
Strengthens, smooths, and brightens skin.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrates by attracting and holding water.

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.
Redness ReducingSoothes visible redness and calms irritation.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
Dark SpotsFades dark spots for even skin tone.

Concerns

Contains paraben
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Glyoxal — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Pentylene Glycol
Skin conditioning, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningSolvent
Propanediol
Solvent, Viscosity decreasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 SolventViscosity decreasing agentViscosity controlling
Niacinamide
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningSmoothing
Dipropylene Glycol
Fragrance, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSolventViscosity decreasing agentMaskingViscosity controlling
Alpha-Arbutin
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 AntioxidantSkin conditioning
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Hair conditioning, Nail conditioning agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningNail conditioning agentSkin conditioningAntistatic agentEmollientFilm formingHumectant
ASCORBIC ACID
Antioxidant, Buffering
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A AntioxidantBufferingFragranceSkin conditioning
Phospholipids
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioning
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientMaskingPerfumingSkin conditioningSolvent
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Skin conditioning
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin conditioning, Tonic
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningTonic
Ceteareth-25
Cleansing, Emulsifying
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B CleansingEmulsifyingSurfactant
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingFragranceOpacifyingEmulsifyingSurfactantFoam boostingViscosity increasing agentEmollientMaskingViscosity controlling
Cholesterol
Emulsion stabilising, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingSkin conditioningViscosity increasing agentEmollientEmulsifyingStabilisingViscosity controlling
+ 39 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Retinal
Skin conditioning
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5–6 Skin conditioning
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Behenic Acid
Opacifying, Sufactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of behenic acid.
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 OpacifyingSufactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of behenic acid.Emulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AntioxidantMasking Fungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Oleate
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactantPerfuming Fungal-acne trigger
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Propylene Glycol
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B FragranceHumectantSkin-conditioningagent - miscellaneousSolventViscosity decreasing agentSkin conditioningViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Glyoxal
Antimicrobial
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 10 CIR B Antimicrobial

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinal)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinal

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

ASCORBIC ACID, Ascorbyl Palmitate

Niacinamide 2–5% (up to 10%)

Most research uses 2–5%; some formulas go to 10%. Very high levels can cause flushing in sensitive skin.

Niacinamide

AHA (acid exfoliant) 5–10% (OTC)

OTC leave-on AHAs are usually 5–10%. The effect also depends on pH and free-acid value, not the percentage alone.

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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