Ultimate Serum

Emma S.

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Emma S. Ultimate Serum is a serums, essence, ampoule. Our analysis of its 34 ingredients (21 low-risk) rates it Excellent (93/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin. Heads up: it contains fragrance, which can irritate sensitive or reactive skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Serums, Essence, Ampoules
Ingredients
34
Low-risk
21
Fragrance
Contains fragrance
Origin
Sweden
Data updated
Jun 2026

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 9/6
Good for dry skin
Squalene Isopropyl Palmitate Canola Oil Sodium Hyaluronate Glycerin Swertia Chirata Extract Dimethicone Lecithin Heptyl Undecylenate
Caution for dry skin
Sorbitan Isostearate Glycerin Alcohol Sodium Hydroxide Polysorbate 60 Lecithin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 1/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Alcohol
Sensitive Skin 4/9
Good for sensitive skin
Glycerin Dimethicone Tocopheryl Acetate Tetrapeptide-30
Caution for sensitive skin
Beta-Sitosterol Isopropyl Palmitate Glycerin Citric Acid Alcohol Phenoxyethanol Hexyl Cinnamal Limonene Citral

Ingredients list

34 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (7)
All34 Skin Conditioning22 Fragrance10 Emollient6 Solvent5 Masking5 Perfuming5 Viscosity Controlling4 Skin Protecting4
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
3
A
Dimethicone
(Antifoaming Agent, Skin Protecting, Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
Silicone
Silicone
1
Caprylyl Methicone
(Skin Conditioning)
B
Heptyl Undecylenate
(Emollient)
1
A
Canola Oil
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
1
B
Isopropyl Palmitate
(Binding Agent, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Binding, Perfuming, Solvent)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
(Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
(Bulking Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
Retinyl Palmitate
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Miscellaneous)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
1
A
Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Biosaccharide Gum-1
(Skin Conditioning)
Tetrapeptide-30
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting)
2
3
Lecithin
(Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Antistatic Agent, Emollient)
1
Swertia Chirata Extract
(Humectant)
Pistacia Lentiscus Gum
(Film Forming, Fragrance)
2
Alcohol
(Antifoaming Agent, Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking, Solvent, Viscosity Controlling)
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Dry Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
1
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
(Viscosity Controlling)
3
B
Polysorbate 60
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Sorbitan Isostearate
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3
B
Sodium Hydroxide
(Denaturant, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
TOCOPHEROL
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Beta-Sitosterol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Skin Conditioning, Stabilising)
Glycine Soja Oil
(Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
1
A
Squalene
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Antistatic Agent, Refatting)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
PARFUM
(Fragrance, Perfuming)
7
Citral
(Flavoring Agent, Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
6
Limonene
(Deodorant, Perfuming, Solvent)
Allergens
Allergens
5
Hexyl Cinnamal
(Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens

My Ingredient Notes

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Key ingredients

Vitamin E
Protects skin and soothes irritation.
Antioxidants
Shields skin from free radical damage.
Retinoid
Visibly reduces the signs of aging.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrates by attracting and holding water.
Peptides
Supports skin hydration and improves firmness.

Benefits

HydratingBoosts hydration and relieves dry, tight skin.
Barrier RepairStrengthen and restore your skin's natural barrier.
Dark SpotsFades dark spots for even skin tone.
BrighteningRestores radiance to dull, tired skin.
Redness ReducingSoothes visible redness and calms irritation.
Scar HealingImproves the look of marks and scars.
Anti-AgingSoftens lines and helps skin look youthful.
Reduces IrritationEases discomfort and supports skin resilience.

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains silicone
Contains eu allergen
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Citral — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Heptyl Undecylenate
Emollient
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A CIR B Emollient
Canola Oil
Emollient, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientSkin conditioning
Avena Sativa Kernel Oil
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Bulking agent, Viscosity increasing agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Bulking agentViscosity increasing agentViscosity controlling
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion stabilising, Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Emulsion stabilisingViscosity controlling
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin conditioning, Skin conditioning miscellaneous
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningSkin conditioning miscellaneous
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioning
Tetrapeptide-30
Skin conditioning, Skin protecting
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningSkin protecting
Lecithin
Skin conditioning, Emulsifying
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 2–3 Skin conditioningEmulsifyingSurfactantAntistatic agentEmollient
Swertia Chirata Extract
Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Humectant
Pistacia Lentiscus Gum
Film forming, Fragrance
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Film formingFragrance
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioningSkin conditioning emollient
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Viscosity controlling
+ 6 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Dimethicone
Antifoaming agent, Skin protecting
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Antifoaming agentSkin protectingEmollientSkin conditioning Silicone
Isopropyl Palmitate
Binding agent, Fragrance
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Binding agentFragranceSkin conditioningEmollientAntistatic agentBindingPerfumingSolvent Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningHumectant Good for Dry Skin
Alcohol
Antifoaming agent, Antimicrobial
Causes moisture evaporation - prone to dry out skinRead moreShow less
EWG 2 Antifoaming agentAntimicrobialAstringentMaskingSolventViscosity controlling Bad for Dry SkinBad for Sensitive Skin
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Squalene
Hair conditioning, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Hair conditioningSkin conditioningEmollientAntistatic agentRefatting Fungal-acne trigger
Citral
Flavoring agent, Fragrance
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 7 Flavoring agentFragranceMasking Allergens
Limonene
Deodorant, Perfuming
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 6 DeodorantPerfumingSolvent Allergens
Hexyl Cinnamal
Fragrance, Masking
Moderate-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 5 FragranceMasking Allergens

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Where it fits: Apply after toner and before moisturiser — thinnest to thickest.
  • 2 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 3 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinyl Palmitate)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinyl Palmitate

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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