Optimal Skin ProMoisturiser

ESPA

Optimal Skin ProMoisturiser

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About this product

The ESPA Optimal Skin ProMoisturiser is a emulsion. Our analysis of its 75 ingredients (63 low-risk) rates it Excellent (95/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone and dry skin.

Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Emulsion
Ingredients
75
Low-risk
63
Fragrance
Fragrance-free

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 33/17
Good for dry skin
Gluconolactone Glucose Glyceryl Stearate Glyceryl Caprylate Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract Anhydroxylitol Cetyl Alcohol Sorbitol Stearyl Alcohol Silica Dimethyl Silylate Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil Ethylhexyl Palmitate Oleic Acid Inulin Isostearyl Isostearate Xylitol Xylitylglucoside Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylyl Glycol Calcium Gluconate Butylene Glycol Sodium Hyaluronate Glycerin Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Coconut Alkanes Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables Jojoba Esters Glyceryl Linolenate Lactic Acid Glyceryl Linoleate Lecithin
Caution for dry skin
Glyceryl Caprylate Behenic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol Silica Dimethyl Silylate Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide Oleic Acid Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract Xanthan Gum Glycerin Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate Glyceryl Linolenate Glyceryl Linoleate Lecithin
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 3/1
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Caution for oily/acne-prone skin
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Sensitive Skin 8/28
Good for sensitive skin
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil Glycerin Jojoba Esters Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Tocopheryl Acetate Alaria Esculenta Extract
Caution for sensitive skin
Gluconolactone Rosa Damascena Flower Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract Cetyl Alcohol Sorbitol Stearyl Alcohol Ethylhexyl Palmitate Oleic Acid Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Flower Extract Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Glycerin Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil Citric Acid Benzoic Acid Sodium Benzoate Potassium Sorbate Lactic Acid Phenoxyethanol Linalool Citronellol Limonene Benzyl Benzoate Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Ingredients list

75 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All75 Skin Conditioning50 Fragrance22 Emollient20 Humectant19 Masking17 Emulsifying13 Emulsion Stabilising11 Surfactant10
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Gluconolactone
(Fragrance, Humectant, Solvent)
1
A
Glucose
(Flavoring Agent, Humectant, Skin Conditioning Agent Miscellaneous)
1
A
Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Glyceryl Caprylate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract
1
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
(Masking, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Dehydroacetic Acid
(Preservative)
1
A
Disodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
(Antimicrobial Agent, Antioxidant, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning Agent Miscellaneous, Skin Conditioning Agent Occlusive, Perfuming)
1
Anhydroxylitol
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Behenic Acid
(Opacifying, Sufactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Behenic Acid., Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil
1
A
Cetyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
(Antioxidant)
1
Sorbitol
(Flavoring Agent, Fragrance, Humectant, Plasticizer, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Sclerotium Gum
(Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Stearyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foambooster, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Foam Boosting, Masking, Opacifying, Refatting, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
(Anticaking Agent, Bulking Agent, Slip Modifier, Suspending Agent Nonsurfactant, Viscosityincreasing Agent Nonaqueous, Antifoaming Agent, Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
(Emollient, Humectant, Skin Protecting)
1
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
(Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing)
1
A
Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
1
B
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Perfuming)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Oleic Acid
(Fragrance, Sufactantsurfactant Cleansing Agent Is Included As A Function For The Soap Form Of Oleic Acid., Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Inulin
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
B
Isostearyl Isostearate
(Binding Agent, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Binding)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract
(Astringent, Masking)
1
Xylitol
(Flavoring Agent, Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
Xylitylglucoside
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Flower Extract
(Fragrance, Masking)
1
Water
(Solvent)
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
A
Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant)
1
A
Calcium Gluconate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent)
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Sodium Hyaluronate
(Skin Conditioning, Humectant)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
B
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
(Emollient, Skin Conditioning)
1
Coconut Alkanes
(Emollient, Solvent)
1
A
Pectin
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Oral Health Care Drug, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Pentylene Glycol
(Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
B
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
B
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
B
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
B
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
Propanediol
(Solvent, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning)
1
A
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
1
A
Jojoba Esters
(Emollient, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning, Soothing)
1
A
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
(Antioxidant, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
9
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
2
B
Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil
(Fragrance, Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic)
2
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil
(Fragrance, Masking)
2
A
Citric Acid
(Chelating Agent, Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
2
B
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
(Skin Conditioning)
2
Iron Oxides
(Colorant, Cosmetic Colorant)
3
A
Glyceryl Linolenate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3
A
Benzoic Acid
(Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Preservative, Bulking Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
3
A
Sodium Benzoate
(Fragrance, Preservative, Anticorrosive, Masking)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
3
A
Potassium Sorbate
(Fragrance, Preservative)
4
B
Lactic Acid
(Exfoliant, Fragrance, Humectant, Ph Adjuster, Skin Conditioning Agent Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Buffering Agent)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben
5
Linalool
(Fragrance, Deodorant, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
5
Citronellol
(Fragrance, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
6
Limonene
(Deodorant, Perfuming, Solvent)
Allergens
Allergens
6
A
Benzyl Benzoate
(Fragrance, Solvent, Antimicrobial, Masking)
Allergens
Allergens
2
3
A
Glyceryl Linoleate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
2
3
Lecithin
(Skin Conditioning, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Antistatic Agent, Emollient)
Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract
(Humectant, Skin Conditioning)
Alaria Esculenta Extract
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Protecting)
Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract
(Skin Conditioning)
Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
(Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning)
Cetyl Behenate
(Skin Conditioning)

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Gluconolactone
Humectant
Glucose
Humectant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Glyceryl Caprylate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Skin Conditioning
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Antioxidant

Benefits

Good for dry skin
Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Contains eu allergen
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) — higher EWG
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Gluconolactone
Fragrance, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 FragranceHumectantSolvent
Glucose
Flavoring agent, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Flavoring agentHumectantSkin-conditioning agent- miscellaneous
Glyceryl Caprylate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningEmollientEmulsifyingSurfactant
Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Masking, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 MaskingSkin conditioning
Dehydroacetic Acid
Preservative
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Preservative
Disodium EDTA
Chelating agent, Viscosity controlling
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Chelating agentViscosity controlling
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial agent, Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Antimicrobial agentAntioxidantFragranceSkin-conditioning agent -miscellaneousSkin-conditioning agent - occlusivePerfuming
Anhydroxylitol
Humectant, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 HumectantSkin conditioning
Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Oil
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingFragranceOpacifyingEmulsifyingSurfactantFoam boostingViscosity increasing agentEmollientMaskingViscosity controlling
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Antioxidant
Sorbitol
Flavoring agent, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Flavoring agentFragranceHumectantPlasticizerSkin conditioning
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion stabilising, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingSkin conditioningViscosity increasing agentViscosity controlling
Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingFragranceEmulsifyingSurfactant- foamboosterViscosity increasing agentEmollientFoam boostingMaskingOpacifyingRefattingViscosity controlling
+ 40 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Behenic Acid
Opacifying, Sufactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of behenic acid.
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 OpacifyingSufactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of behenic acid.Emulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B FragranceSkin conditioningEmollientPerfuming Fungal-acne trigger
Oleic Acid
Fragrance, Sufactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of oleic acid.
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSufactantsurfactant-cleansing agent is included as a function for the soap form of oleic acid.EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Isostearyl Isostearate
Binding agent, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Binding agentSkin conditioningEmollientBinding Bad for Oily SkinFungal-acne trigger
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin conditioning, Humectant
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Skin conditioningHumectant Good for Dry Skin
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Other
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Fungal-acne trigger
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Antioxidant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AntioxidantFragrancePh adjusterSkin conditioningBuffering agentMasking Good for Dry Skin
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)
Other
Higher-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 9 Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Citric Acid
Chelating agent, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A Chelating agentFragrancePh adjusterBuffering agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Benzoic Acid
Fragrance, Ph adjuster
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A FragrancePh adjusterPreservativeBulking agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Lactic Acid
Exfoliant, Fragrance
Skin irritation can occur at high concentrationRead moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR B ExfoliantFragranceHumectantPh adjusterSkin-conditioning agent -humectantSkin conditioningBuffering agent Bad for Sensitive Skin
+ 5 more — see the full ingredients list above

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 2 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A))

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)

AHA (acid exfoliant) 5–10% (OTC)

OTC leave-on AHAs are usually 5–10%. The effect also depends on pH and free-acid value, not the percentage alone.

Lactic Acid

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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