Retinol + Serum

Functionalab

Where to buy Possibly in stock

About this product

The Functionalab Retinol + Serum is a emulsion. Our analysis of its 44 ingredients (35 low-risk) rates it Excellent (97/100). Based on its ingredients, it looks well-suited to oily / acne-prone skin.

Vegan-friendly Reef-safe

Summarised from our ingredient analysis — not brand marketing copy.

At a glance

Type
Emulsion
Ingredients
44
Low-risk
35
Fragrance
Fragrance-free
Origin
Canada

The evidence

Quick Product Notes

Paraben-Free Sulfate-Free Alcohol-Free Silicone-Free EU Allergen-Free Fungal Acne (Malassezia) Safe

Notable Effects & Ingredients

No Notable Effects & Ingredients

Ingredients Related to Skin Types

Good   Bad — tap a skin type to see which ingredients · estimated from ingredient functions
Dry Skin 11/15
Good for dry skin
Glyceryl Dilaurate Glyceryl Stearate Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate Dicaprylyl Carbonate Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Laurate Isododecane Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylyl Glycol Butylene Glycol Glycerin
Caution for dry skin
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Laurate Inulin Lauryl Carbamate Xanthan Gum Glycerin Ceteth-20 Sodium Hydroxide Steareth-2 Steareth-20 Steareth-21 Polysorbate 20 PEG-100 Stearate PEG-75 Stearate
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin 1/0
Good for oily/acne-prone skin
Retinol
Sensitive Skin 3/9
Good for sensitive skin
Glycerin Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate Tocopheryl Acetate
Caution for sensitive skin
Cetyl Alcohol Isododecane Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Butylene Glycol Glycerin Benzoic Acid Sorbic Acid Phenoxyethanol Retinol

Ingredients list

44 total
Lower hazard (1) Higher hazard (9)
All44 Skin Conditioning29 Fragrance10 Surfactant10 Emulsifying9 Emollient9 Viscosity Controlling8 Emulsion Stabilising6 Viscosity Increasing Agent5
EWG CIR Ingredient Name & Cosmetic Functions Notes
1
Water
(Solvent)
2
A
Glycerin
(Denaturant, Fragrance, Hair Conditioning, Humectant, Oral Care Agent, Oral Health Care Drug, Skin Protecting, Viscosity Decreasing Agent, Perfuming, Solvent)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(Emollient, Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning, Solvent)
1
A
Glyceryl Stearate
(Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Viscosity Increasing Agent)
3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID
(Skin Conditioning)
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
1
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient)
3
A
PEG-100 Stearate
(Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
B
Isododecane
(Fragrance, Solvent, Emollient, Perfuming)
1
A
Cetyl Alcohol
(Emulsion Stabilising, Fragrance, Opacifying, Emulsifying, Surfactant, Foam Boosting, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Emollient, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
1
B
Glyceryl Dilaurate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
1
A
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
(Absorbent, Anticaking Agent, Opacifying, Slip Modifier, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
3
B
Polysorbate 20
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
Fungal Acne
Fungal Acne Trigger
9
A
Retinol
(Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
3
B
Steareth-21
(Sufactant, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3
Tocopheryl Acetate
(Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning)
Bad for Oily Skin
Bad for Oily Skin
VITIS VINIFERA SEED OIL
(Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning Emollient)
1
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates
(Hair Conditioning, Hair Fixing, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Cleansing Agent, Antistatic Agent, Foaming)
1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
(Skin Conditioning)
Cichorium Intybus Root Extract
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
3
B
Sodium Hydroxide
(Denaturant, Ph Adjuster, Buffering Agent)
rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
(Antimicrobial, Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
(Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Controlling)
1
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
(Emulsion Stabilising, Surfactant)
3
B
Steareth-2
(Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
A
Ethylhexylglycerin
(Deodorant, Skin Conditioning)
3
A
PEG-75 Stearate
(Surfactant)
1
A
Butylene Glycol
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning, Solvent, Viscositydecreasing Agent, Humectant, Masking, Viscosity Controlling)
Good for Dry Skin
Good for Dry Skin
1
A
Caprylyl Glycol
(Hair Conditioning, Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Humectant)
1
A
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
(Antioxidant)
1
A
Xanthan Gum
(Binding Agent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning, Surfactant Emulsifying Agent, Viscosity Increasing Agent, Binding, Gel Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
2
B
Ceteth-20
(Cleansing, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3
B
Steareth-20
(Sufactant, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
1
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
(Emulsion Stabilising, Film Forming, Viscosity Controlling)
3
B
Behentrimonium Chloride
(Antistatic Agent, Hair Conditioning, Preservative)
1
Sucrose Laurate
(Skin Conditioning, Emollient, Emulsifying, Surfactant)
3
A
Sorbic Acid
(Fragrance, Preservative)
3
A
Benzoic Acid
(Fragrance, Ph Adjuster, Preservative, Bulking Agent, Masking)
Bad for Sensitive Skin
Bad for Sensitive Skin
1
A
Dehydroacetic Acid
(Preservative)
1
A
Disodium EDTA
(Chelating Agent, Viscosity Controlling)
1
A
Dextran
(Binding Agent, Bulking Agent, Binding, Viscosity Controlling)
citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
(Fragrance, Skin Conditioning)
4
A
Phenoxyethanol
(Fragrance, Preservative)
Paraben
Paraben

My Ingredient Notes

No personal ingredient notes yet. Save ingredients to your profile to get good/bad alerts here.

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Key ingredients

Glycerin
Humectant, Skin Protecting
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Skin Conditioning, Emollient
3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID
Skin Conditioning
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Skin Conditioning

Benefits

Good for oily/acne-prone skin

Concerns

Contains paraben
Not fungal acne (malassezia) safe
Retinol — higher EWG
May not suit dry skin
May not suit sensitive skin

EWG flags hazard, not real-world risk — ratings don't account for how much of an ingredient a product contains. Treat these as things to research, not verdicts. How we score →

Ingredients explained

Water
Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Solvent
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient, Masking
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientMaskingPerfumingSkin conditioningSolvent
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningEmollientViscosity increasing agent
3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID
Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioning
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Skin conditioning, Skin conditioning - emollient
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningSkin conditioning - emollient
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioningEmollient
Isododecane
Fragrance, Solvent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B FragranceSolventEmollientPerfuming
Cetyl Alcohol
Emulsion stabilising, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A Emulsion stabilisingFragranceOpacifyingEmulsifyingSurfactantFoam boostingViscosity increasing agentEmollientMaskingViscosity controlling
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Absorbent, Anticaking agent
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A AbsorbentAnticaking agentOpacifyingSlip modifierViscosity increasing agentViscosity controlling
Steareth-21
Sufactant, Emulsifying
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B SufactantEmulsifyingSurfactant
VITIS VINIFERA SEED OIL
Skin conditioning, Skin conditioning emollient
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A Skin conditioningSkin conditioning emollient
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates
Hair conditioning, Hair fixing
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Hair conditioningHair fixingSkin conditioningSurfactant -cleansing agentAntistatic agentFoaming
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 Skin conditioning
Cichorium Intybus Root Extract
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Limited public safety data.Read moreShow less
EWG N/A FragranceSkin conditioning
Sodium Hydroxide
Denaturant, Ph adjuster
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B DenaturantPh adjusterBuffering agent
+ 19 more — see the full ingredients list above
Glycerin
Denaturant, Fragrance
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 2 CIR A DenaturantFragranceHair conditioningHumectantOral care agentOral health care drugSkin protectingViscosity decreasing agentPerfumingSolvent Good for Dry SkinFungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A EmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A Surfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Glyceryl Dilaurate
Skin conditioning, Emollient
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR B Skin conditioningEmollientEmulsifying Fungal-acne trigger
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying, Surfactant
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR B EmulsifyingSurfactant Fungal-acne trigger
Retinol
Skin conditioning
Potentially a skin irritantRead moreShow less
EWG 9 CIR A Skin conditioning Bad for Sensitive Skin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant, Skin conditioning
Potentially comedogenic - can block poresRead moreShow less
EWG 3 AntioxidantSkin conditioning Bad for Oily Skin
Butylene Glycol
Fragrance, Skin conditioning
Low-hazard ingredient.Read moreShow less
EWG 1 CIR A FragranceSkin conditioningSolventViscositydecreasing agentHumectantMaskingViscosity controlling Good for Dry Skin
Benzoic Acid
Fragrance, Ph adjuster
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 3 CIR A FragrancePh adjusterPreservativeBulking agentMasking Bad for Sensitive Skin
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance, Preservative
Low-to-moderate hazard.Read moreShow less
EWG 4 CIR A FragrancePreservative Paraben

How to use

How to use

  • 1 Evening: Use at night — start 2–3× a week and build up as your skin tolerates it.
  • 2 Wear SPF the next day: Acids and retinoids increase sun sensitivity — daily sunscreen is a must while using this.

General guidance from this product's category and active ingredients — always follow the directions on the package.

Trust & honesty

Officially notified as a cosmetic in Malaysia (NPRA). Government registration record.

Pregnancy & breastfeeding

Contains ingredients some choose to avoid or double-check while pregnant or nursing.

Often avoided
Retinoids (Vitamin A) (Retinol)

Topical retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl esters) are widely advised against in pregnancy as a precaution. The strongest evidence is for ORAL retinoids; topical absorption is low, but most clinicians err on the side of caution.

This is general information, not medical advice. Pregnancy guidance varies and depends on concentration and your individual situation — always check with your doctor, midwife or pharmacist. How we flag this.

Effective levels — general guide

The concentrations these actives are typically effective at in research — not a measurement of this product.

Retinoids (Vitamin A) 0.01–1%

Most studied between 0.1% and 1%. Higher is not automatically better — irritation climbs with dose, so a well-formulated lower strength is often the sweet spot.

Retinol

Vitamin C (ascorbic) 5–20%

L-ascorbic acid is usually used at 5–20% (around 10–15% is common). Above ~20% adds little and tends to irritate more; it also needs a low pH to work.

3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID

INCI lists don't disclose amounts, and we don't claim to know this product's levels — these are the ranges these ingredients are usually effective at, so you can tell a real formula from "fairy-dusting" a marketed active. How we estimate this.

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